voyage of the paper canoe-第25章

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r　at　hand；　yet　these　dismal　relics　of　their　ancestors　were　allowed　to　be　stolen　away　piecemeal　by　the　encroaching　ocean。　　While　I　gazed　sadly　upon　the　strata　of　coffins　protruding　from　the　banks；　shining　objects　like　jewels　seemed　to　be　sparkling　from　between　the　cracks　of　their　　fractured　sides；　and　as　I　tore　away　the　rotten　wood；　rows　of　toads　were　discovered　sitting　in　　solemn　council；　their　bright　eyes　peering　from　among　the　debris　of　bones　and　decomposed　substances。〃

Portsmouth　Island　is　nearly　eight　miles　long。　Whalebone　Inlet　is　at　its　lower　end；　but　is　too　shallow　to　be　of　any　service　to　commerce。　　　Hatteras　and　Ocracoke　inlets　admit　sea…going　　vessels。　　It　is　thirty…eight　miles　from　Whalebone　Inlet　to　Cape　Lookout；　which　projects　like　a　wedge　into　the　sea　nearly　three　miles　from　the　mainland；　and　there　is　not　another　passage　through　the　narrow　beach　in　all　that　distance　that　is　of　any　use　to　the　mariner。　　Following　the　trend　of　the　coast　for　eleven　miles　from　the　point　of　Cape　Lookout；　there　is　an　inlet；　but；　from　the　character　of　its　channel　and　its　　shallowness；　it　is　not　of　much　value。

Leaving　Portsmouth；　the　canoe　entered　Core　Sound；　which　grew　narrower　as　the　shoals　inside　of　Whalebone　Inlet　were　crossed；　partly　by　　rowing　and　partly　by　wading　on　the　sand…flats。　　As　night　came　on；　a　barren　stretch　of　beach　on　my　left　hand　was　followed　until　I　espied　the　only　house　within　a　distance　of　sixteen　miles　along　the　sea。　　It　was　occupied　by　a　coasting　skipper；　whose　fine　little　schooner　was　anchored　a　long　distance　from　the　land　on　account　of　the　　shoalness　of　the　water。　　Dreary　sand…hills　protected　the　cottage　from　the　bleak　winds　of　the　ocean。

While　yet　a　long　distance　from　the　skipper's　home；　a　black　object　could　be　seen　crawling　up　the　sides　of　a　mound　of　white　sand；　and　after　it　reached　the　apex　it　remained　in　one　position；　while　I　rowed；　and　waded；　and　pulled　my　canoe　towards　the　shore。　When　the　goal　was　reached；　and　the　boat　was　landed　high　up　among　the　scrub　growth；　I　shouldered　my　blankets　and　charts；　and　plodded　through　the　soft　soil　towards　the　dark　object；　which　I　now　recognized　to　be　a　man　on　a　lookout　post。　　He　did　not　move　from　his　position　until　I　reached　the　hillock；　when　he　suddenly　slid　down　the　bank　and　landed　at　my　feet；　with　a　cheery　

〃Well；　now；　I　thought　it　was　you。　Sez　I　to　myself；　That's　him；　sure；　when　I　seed　you　four　miles　away。　　Fust　thinks　I；　It's　only　a　log；　or　a　piece　of　wrak…stuff　afloating。　　Pretty　soon　up　comes　your　head　and　shoulders　into　sight；　then　sez　I；　It's　a　man；　sure；　but　where　is　his　boat？　for　you　see；　I　couldn't　see　your　boat；　it　was　so　low　down　in　the　water。　Then　I　reckoned　it　was　a　man　afloating　on　a　log；　but　arter　a　while　the　boat　loomed　up　too；　and　I　says；　I'll　be　dog…goned　if　that　isn't　him。　　I　went　up　to　　Newbern；　some　time　ago；　in　the　schooner；　and　the　people　there　said　there　was　a　man　coming　down　the　coast　a…rowing　a　paper　boat　on　a　bet。　　The　boat　weighed　only　fifty…eight　pounds；　and　the　man　had　a　heft　of　only　eighty　pounds。　　When　pa　and　me　went　up　to　the　city　agin；　the　folks　said　the　man　was　close　on　to　us；　and　this　time　they　said　the　man　and　his　boat　together　weighed　only　eighty　pounds。　　Now　I　should　think　you　weighed　more　than　that　yourself；　letting　alone　the　boat。〃

Having　assured　the　young　man　that　I　was　indeed　myself；　and　that　the　Newbern　people　had　played　upon　his　credulity；　we　walked　on　to　the　house；　where　the　family　of　Captain　James　Mason　kindly　welcomed　me　to　a　glowing　wood…fire　and　hearty　supper。　　Though　I　had　never　heard　of　their　existence　till　I　entered　Core　Sound；　the　kindness　of　these　people　was　like　that　of　old　friends。

Half　a　mile　below　Captain　Mason's　home；　a　short　time　before　my　visit；　a　new　breach　had　been　made　by　the　ocean　through　the　beach。　About　twenty　years　before　a　similar　breach　had　occurred　in　the　same　locality；　and　was　known　during　its　short　life　as　〃Pillintary　Inlet。〃　　The　next　day　I　crossed　the　sound；　which　is　here　four　miles　in　width；　and　coasted　along　to　the　　oystermen's　village　of　Hunting　Quarters；　on　the　　mainland。　　The　houses　were　very　small；　but　the　hearts　of　the　poor　folks　were　very　large。　　They　came　to　the　water's　edge　and　carried　the　canoe　into　the　only　store　in　the　neighborhood。　　Its　proprietor；　Mr。　William　H。　Stewart；　insisted　upon　my　sharing　his　bachelor's　quarters　in　an　unfinished　room　of　the　storehouse。　　My　young　host　was　hardly　out　of　his　teens。　　In　his　boyish　way　he　kindly　remarked：

〃I　am　here　all　alone。　　Father　told　me；　before　he　died；　never　to　let　a　stranger　pass　my　door　but　to　make　him　share　my　lodgings；　humble　though　they　are；　and　now；　any　way；　you're　just　in　time　for　the　fun；　for　we　are　to　have　three　weddings　to…night；　and　all　the　boys　and　girls　of　the　　neighborhood　will　be　at　Hunting　Quarters。〃

I　entered　a　mild　protest　against　joining　in　the　festivities；　on　the　plea　of　not　having　received　an　invitation；　at　which　the　handsome　youth　laughed　heartily。

〃Invitation！〃　he　exclaimed；　〃why；　no　one　ever　gives　out　invitations　in　Hunting　Quarters。　When　there　is　to　be　a　'jolliflcation'　of　any　sort；　everybody　goes　to　the　house　without　being　asked。　You　see　we　are　all　neighbors　here。　Up　at　Newbern　and　at　Beaufort；　and　other　great　cities；　people　have　their　ways；　but　here　all　are　friends。〃

So　we　went　to　the　little　house　in　the　piny　forest；　where　two　hearts　were　to　be　made　one。　The　only　room　on　the　first　floor　was　crowded　with　people。　　The　minister　had　not　arrived；　and　the　crowd　was　gazing　at　the　young　groom　and　his　pretty　bride…elect　as　they　sat　in　two　chairs　in　the　middle　of　the　company；　with　their　arms　around　each　other；　never　speaking　a　word　to　any　one。　The　heavy　weight　of　people　began　to　settle　the　floor；　and　as　two　joists　gave　way　I　struggled　to　escape　through　an　open　window；　thinking　we　would　be　precipitated　into　the　cellar　below。　But　the　good…natured　company　took　no　notice　of　the　snapping　timbers；　only　ejaculating；　〃She'll　soon　touch　bottom；〃　and　to　my　inquiries　about　the　inconvenience　of　being　pitched　through　to　the　cellar；　a　rustic　youth；　with　great　merriment　depicted　upon　his　countenance；　replied：

〃Sullers；　captain；　why；　there　ain't　a　suller　to　a　buildin'　within　thirty　miles　of　the　Quarters。　We　never　uses　sullers　hereabouts。〃

By　my　side　was　a　young　fisherman；　who　had　got　home　from　a　cruise；　and　was　overflowing　with　affection　towards　every　girl　present。　　〃O；　gals；〃　he　would　cry；　〃you　don't　know　how　nice　I　feels　to　get　back　to　you　once　more！〃　　　Throwing　his　arms　around　a　bright…eyed　girl；　who　vainly　tried　to　escape　him；　he　said；　〃O；　weary　mariner；　here　is　thy　rest！　　No　more　shall　he　wander　from　thee。〃

This　sentimental　strain　was　interrupted　by　an　old　lady；　who　reached　her　arm　over　my　　shoulder　to　administer　a　rebuke。　〃Sam；　ye're　a　fool！〃　she　cried；　　〃ye're　beside　yourself　to…night；　and　afore　this　paper…canoe　captain；　too。　　Ef　I　was　a　gal　I'd　drap　yere　society；　wid　yere　familiar　ways　right　in　company。〃

The　blow　and　the　admonition　fell　harmlessly　upon　the　head　and　the　heart　of　the　sailor；　who　replied；　〃Aunty；　I　knows　my　advantages　in　Hunting　Quarters　　women　is　plenty；　and　men　is　few。〃

The　crowd　roared　with　laughter　at　this　truism；　but　were　quieted　by　the　shout　of　a　boy　that　the　preacher　was　a…coming；　whereupon　the　　reverend　gentleman　elbowed　　his　way　through　the　guests　to　the　quiet　couple；　and　requested　them　to　stand　up。　　A　few　hurried　words　by　the　clergyman；　a　few　bashful　replies　from　the　young　people；　and　the　two　were　made　one。　　The　crowd　rushed　outside　of　the　house；　where　a　general　scramble　took　place　among　the　boys　for　their　girls。　　Then　a　procession　was　formed；　headed　by　the　clergyman；　which　marched　along　the　sandy　road　to　another　house　in　the　woods；　where　the　second　marriage　was　to　be　celebrated。

It　was　amusing　to　see　the　young　men　dash　away　from　the　procession；　to　run　to　the　village　store　for　candy　at　twenty…five　cents　per　pound；　　containing　as　much　terra　alba　（white　clay）　as　sugar。　With　well…filled　pockets　they　would　run　back　to　the　procession　and　fill　the　girls'　aprons　with　the　sweets；　soon　repeating　the　process；　and　　showering　upon　the　fair　ones　cakes；　raisins；　nuts；　and　oranges。　　The　only　young　man　who　seemed　to　find　no　favor　in　any　woman's　eyes　invested　more　capital　in　sweetmeats　than　the　others；　and　though　every　girl　in　the　procession　gave　him　a　sharp　word　or　a　kick　as　he　passed；　yet　none　　refused　his　candies　as　he　tossed　them　at　the　　maidens；　or　stuffed　them　into　the　pockets　of　their　dresses。

The　second　ceremony　was　performed　in　about　three　minutes；　and　the　preacher　feeling　faint　from　his　long　ride　through　the　woods；　declared　he　must　have　some　supper。　　So；　while　he　was　being　served；　the　girls　chatted　together；　the　old　ladies　helped　each　other　to　snuff　with　little　wooden　　paddles；　which　were　left　protruding　from　one　corner　of　their　mouths　after　they　had　taken　〃a　dip；〃　as　they　called　it。　　The　boys；　after　learning　that　the　preacher　had　postponed　the　third　marriage　for　an　hour；　with　a　wild　shout　scampered　off　to　Stewart's　store　for　more　candies。　　I　took　advantage　of　the　interim　to　inquire　how　it　was　that　the　young　ladies　and　gentlemen　were　upon　such　terms　of　pleasant　intimacy。

〃Well；　captain；〃　replied　the　person　　interrogated；　〃you　sees　we　is　all　growed　up　together；　and　brotherly　love　and　sisterly　affection　is　our　teaching。　　The　brethren　love　the　sisteren；　and　they　say　that　love　begets　love；　so　the　sisteren　loves　the　brethren。　It's　parfecly　nateral。　That's　the　hull　story；　captain。　　How　is　it　up　your　way？〃

At　last　the　preacher　declared　himself　satisfied　with　all　he　had　eaten；　and　that　enough　was　as　good　as　a　feast；　so　the　young　people　fell　into　line；　and　we　trudged　to　the　third　house；　where；　with　the　same　dispatch；　the　third　couple　were　united。　Then　the　fiddler　scraped　the　strings　of　his　　instrument；　and　a　double…shuffle　dance　commenced。　The　girls　stamped　and　moved　their　feet　about　in　the　same　manner　as　the　men。　　Soon　four　or　five　of　the　young　ladies　left　the　dancing…party；　and　seated　themselves　in　a　corner；　pouting　　discontentedly。　　My　companion　explained　to　me　that　the　deserters　were　a　little　stuck…up；　having　made　two　or　three　visits　on　a　schooner　to　the　city　（Newbern）；　where　they　had　other　ways　of　dancing；　and　where　the　folks　didn't　think　it　pretty　for　a　girl　to　strike　her　heels　upon　the　floor；　&c。

How　long　they　danced　I　know　not；　for　the　prospect　of　a　long　row　on　the　morrow　sent　me　to　rest　in　the　storehouse；　from　which　I　was　called　by　a　kind　old　couple　sending　for　me　to　take　tea　with　them　at　half　an　hour　after　midnight。　　　Unwilling　to　wound　the　sensitive　feelings　of　these　hospitable　people；　I　answered　the　summons　in　propia　persona；　and　found　it　was　the　mother　of　bride　No。　1；　to　whom　I　was　indebted　for　the　invitation。　　A　well…filled　table　took　up　the　space　in　the　centre　of　the　room；　where　a　few　hours　before　the　timbers　creaked　beneath　the　weight　of　the　curious　crowd；　and　there；　sitting　on　one　side　in　the　same　affectionate　manner　I　have　described；　were　the　bride　and　groom；　　apparently　unmoved　by　the　change　of　scene；　while　the　bride's　mother　rocked　in　her　chair；　moaning；　〃O　John；　if　you'd　taken　the　other　gal；　I　might　have　stood　it；　but　this　yere　one　has　been　my　comfort。〃

At　dawn　the　canoe　was　put　into　Core　Sound；　and　I　followed　the　western　shore；　cheered　by　the　bright　sun　of　our