voyage of the paper canoe-第24章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


he　inlet；　less　than　twenty　miles　from　us；　on　the　dangerous　edge　of　Ocracoke　shoals；　the　searching　party　of　the　yacht　Julia　were　in　momentary　expectation　of　going　to　the　bottom　of　the　sound。　　For　hours　the　gallant　craft　hung　to　her　anchors；　which　were　heavily　backed　by　all　the　iron　ballast　that　could　be　attached　to　the　cables。　　Wave　after　wave　swept　over　her；　and　not　a　man　could　put　his　head　above　the　hatches。　Then；　as　she　rolled　in　the　sea；　her　cabin…windows　went　under；　and　streams　of　water　were　forced　through　the　ports　　into　the　confined　space　which　was　occupied　by　the　little　party。　　For　a　time　they　were　in　imminent　danger；　for　the　vessel　dragged　anchor　to　the　edge　of　the　shoal；　and　with　a　heavy　thud　the　yacht　struck　on　the　bottom。　　All　hopes　of　ever　　returning　to　Newbern　were　lost；　when　the　changing　tide　swung　the　boat　off　into　deeper　water；　where　she　rode　out　the　storm　in　safety。

Before　morning　the　wind　shifted；　and　by　nine　o'clock　I　retraced　my　steps　to　the　cape；　and　on　Tuesday　rowed　down　to　Hatteras　Inlet；　which　was　reached　a　little　past　noon。　　Before　　attempting　to　cross　this　dangerous　tidal　gate…way　of　the　ocean　I　hugged　the　shore　close　to　its　edge；　and　paused　to　make　myself　familiar　with　the　　sandhills　of　the　opposite　side；　a　mile　away；　which　were　to　serve　as　the　guiding…beacons　in　the　　passage。　How　often　had　I；　lying　awake　at　night；　thought　of　and　dreaded　the　crossing　of　this　ill…omened　inlet！　　It　had　given　me　much　mental　suffering。　　Now　it　was　before　me。　　Here　on　my　right　was　the　great　sound；　on　my　left　the　　narrow　beach　island；　and　out　through　the　portal　of　the　open　inlet　surged　and　moaned　under　a　leaden　sky　that　old　ocean　which　now　seemed　to　frown　at　me；　and　to　say：　〃Wait；　my　boy；　until　the　inlet's　waves　deliver　you　to　me；　and　I　will　put　you　among　my　other　victims　for　your　　temerity。〃

As　I　gazed　across　the　current　I　remarked　that　it　did　not　seem　very　rough；　though　a　strong　ebb　was　running　out　to　the　sea；　and　if　crossed　　immediately；　before　the　wind　arose；　there　could　be　no　unreasonable　risk。　　My　canvas　deck…cover　was　carefully　pulled　close　about　my　waist；　and　a　rigid　inspection　of　oars　and　row…locks　was　made；　then；　with　a　desire　to　reserve　my　strength　for　any　great　demand　that　might　be　made　upon　it　a　little　later；　I　rowed　with　a　steady　stroke　out　into　Hatteras　Inlet。　　There　was　no　help　nearer　than　Styron's；　two　miles　away　on　the　upper　shore；　while　the　beach　I　was　approaching　on　the　other　side　was　uninhabited　for　nearly　sixteen　miles；　to　the　village　at　its　southern　end；　near　Ocracoke　Inlet。　　Upon　entering　the　swash　I　thought　of　the　sharks　which　the　Hatteras　fishermen　had　told　me　frequently　seized　their　oars；　snapping　the　thin　blades　in　pieces；　assuring　me；　at　the　same　time；　that　mine　would　prove　very　attractive；　being　so　white　and　glimmering　in　the　water；　and　offering　the　same　glittering　fascination　as　a　silver…spoon　bait　does　to　a　blue…fish。　　These　cheerful　suggestions　caused　a　peculiar　creeping　sensation　to　come　over　me；　but　I　tried　to　quiet　myself　with　the　belief　that　the　sharks　had　　followed　the　blue…fish　into　deeper　water；　to　escape　cold　weather。

The　canoe　crossed　the　upper　ebb；　and　entered　an　area　where　the　ebb　from　the　opposite　side　of　the　inlet　struck　the　first　one。　　While　crossing　the　union　of　the　two　currents；　a　wind　came　in　at　the　opening　through　the　beach；　and　though　not　a　strong　one；　it　created　a　great　agitation　of　the　water。　　The　dangerous　experience　at　　Watchapreague　Inlet　had　taught　me　that　when　in　such　a　sea　one　must　pull　with　all　his　strength；　and　that　the　increased　momentum　would　give　greater　buoyancy　to　the　shell；　for　while　under　this　　treatment　she　bounced　from　one　irregular　wave　to　another　with　a　climbing　action　which　greatly　relieved　my　anxiety。　　The　danger　seemed　to　be　decreasing；　and　I　stole　a　furtive　glance　over　my　shoulder　at　the　low　dunes　of　the　beach　shore　which　I　was　approaching；　to　see　how　far　into　the　inlet　the　tide　had　dragged　me。　　The　white　water　to　leeward　warned　me　of　a　shoal；　and　forced　me　to　pull　hard　for　the　sound　to　escape　being　drawn　into　the　breakers。　　This　danger　was　hardly　passed；　when　suddenly　the　waters　around　me　seethed　and　foamed；　and　the　short　waves　parted　and　closed；　as　great　creatures　rose　from　the　deep　into　the　air　several　feet；　and　then　fell　　heavily　into　the　sea。　　My　tiny　shell　rocked　and　pitched　about　wildly　as　these　animals　appeared　and　disappeared；　leaping　from　the　waves　all　around　me；　diving　under　the　boat　and　reappearing　on　the　opposite　side。　　They　lashed　the　current　with　their　strong　tails；　and　snorted　or　blowed　most　dismally。　　For　an　instant　surprise　and　alarm　took　such　possession　of　me　that　not　a　muscle　of　my　arms　obeyed　my　will；　and　the　canoe　commenced　to　drift　in　the　driving　stream　towards　the　open　sea。　This　confusion　was　only　momentary；　for　as　soon　as　I　discovered　that　my　companions　were　porpoises　and　only　old　acquaintances；　I　　determined　to　avoid　them　as　soon　as　possible。

With　a　quick　glance　at　my　stern　range；　a　　sandhill　on　the　shore　of　the　inlet；　and　another　look　over　my　shoulder　for　the　sand　dunes　of　the　other　side；　I　exerted　every　muscle　to　reach　the　beach；　but　my　frisky　friends　were　in　no　mood　to　leave　me；　but　continued　their　fun　with　increased　　energy　as　reinforcements　came　up　from　all　directions。　The　faster　I　rowed　the　more　they　multiplied；　ploughing　the　sea　in　erratic　courses。　　They　were　from　five　to　seven　feet　in　length；　and　must　have　weighed　from　two　hundred　to　four　hundred　pounds　each。　Though　their　attentions　were　　kindly　meant；　their　brusqueness　on　such　an　unsteady　footing　was　unpardonable。　　I　most　feared　the　strong；　shooting　movements　of　their　tails　in　the　sudden　dives　under　my　canoe；　for　one　sportive　touch　of　such　a　caudality　would　have　rolled　me　over；　and　furnished　material　for　a　tale　the　very　anticipation　of　which　was　unpleasant。


Crossing　Hatteras　Inlet　（112K）


The　aquatic　gambols　of　the　porpoises　lasted　but　a　few　minutes　after　they　had　called　in　all　their　neighbors；　and　had　chased　me　into　three　feet　depth　of　water。　They　then　spouted　a　nasal　farewell；　which　sounded　more　catarrhal　than　guitaral；　and　left　me　for　the　more　profitable　　occupation　of　fishing　in　the　tide…way　of　the　inlet；　while　I　rowed　into　a　shallow　cove；　out　of　the　ebb；　to　rest；　and　to　recover　from　the　effects　of　my　fright。

As　I　pulled　along　the　beach　the　tide　receded　so　rapidly　that　the　canoe　was　constantly　　grounding；　and　wading　became　necessary；　for　I　could　not　get　within　several　feet　of　the　shore。　When　five　miles　from　Hatteras　Inlet　I　espied　an　empty　grass　cabin；　which　the　fishermen　used　in　　February　while　catching　shad；　and；　as　a　southerly　wind　was　now　blowing　from　the　sea；　and　rain　was　falling；　it　offered　a　night's　shelter　for　the　traveller。　This　Robinson　Crusoe　looking　structure　was　located　upon　the　low　land　near　the　sound；　while　bleak；　sharp…pointed；　treeless　and　grassless　　sandhills；　blown　into　shape　by　the　winds；　arose　in　the　background；　and　cut　off　a　view　of　the　ocean；　which；　judging　from　the　low；　melancholy　　moaning　coming　over　the　dunes；　was　in　a　sad　mood。

The　canoe　was　hauled　into　the　bushes　and　tied　securely　for　fear　a　deceptive　tide　might　bear　it　away。　　The　provisions；　blankets；　&c。；　were　moved　into　the　grass　hut；　which　needed　　repairing。　　The　holes　in　the　south　wall　were　soon　thatched；　and　a　bed　easily　prepared　from　the　rushes　of　the　marsh。　　It　mattered　not　that　they　were　wet；　for　a　piece　of　painted　canvas　was　spread　over　them；　and　the　inviting　couch　　finished。

As　fresh　water　can　usually　be　obtained　on　all　these　low　beaches　by　digging　two　or　three　feet　into　the　sand；　I　looked　for　a　large　clam…shell；　and　my　search　being　rewarded；　I　was　soon　engaged　in　digging　a　well　near　the　cabin。

Upon　looking　up　from　my　work　a　curious　sight　met　my　gaze。　　In　some　mysterious　way　every　sharp…pointed　sand…hill　had　been　covered　by　a　black　object；　which　swayed　about　and　　nodded　up　and　down　in　a　strange　manner。　　As　I　watched　the　development　of　this　startling　　phenomenon；　the　nodding；　black　objects　grew　in　size　until　the　head；　body；　and　four　legs　of　a　horse　were　clearly　cut　against　the　sky。　　A　little　later　every　crest　was　surmounted　by　the　comical　figure　of　a　marsh…tacky。　Then　a　few　sheep　came　out　of　the　hollows　among　the　hills　and　browsed　on　the　coarse　grass　near　the　cabin；　as　though　they　felt　the　loneliness　of　their　situation　so　far　removed　from　mankind。　With　the　marsh…ponies；　the　sheep；　the　wild…fowls　of　the　sound；　and　the　sighing　sea　for　companions；　the　night　passed　away。

The　bright　moonlight　roused　me　at　five　o'clock　in　the　morning；　and　I　pushed　off　again　in　shoal　water　on　an　ebb…tide；　experiencing　much　　difficulty　in　dragging　the　canoe　over　shallow　places　until　deep　water　was　entered；　when　the　row　to　Ocracoke　became　an　agreeable　one。　The　　landing…place　at　Ocracoke；　not　far　from　the　　lighthouse；　was　reached　at　noon；　and　the　people　gathered　to　see　the　paper　boat；　having　been　notified　of　my　proximity　by　fishermen。

The　women　here　can　pull　a　pretty　good　stroke；　and　frequently　assist　their　husbands　in　the　　fisheries。　　These　old　dames　ridiculed　the　idea　of　having　a　boat　so　small　and　light　as　the　canoe。　One　old　lady　laid　aside　her　pipe　and　　snuff…paddle　（snuff…rubbing　is　a　time…honored　　institution　in　the　south）；　and　roughly　grasping　the　bow　of　the　craft；　lifted　it　high　in　the　air；　then；　glancing　at　the　fine　model；　she　lowered　it　slowly　to　the　ground；　exclaiming；　〃I　reckon　I　wouldn't　risk　my　life　acrossing　a　creek　in　her。〃

These　people　told　me　that　the　yacht　Julia　had　stopped　there　to　make　inquiries　for　me；　and　had　departed　for　Newbern。

It　was　more　than　a　mile　from　the　landing　to　Ocracoke　Inlet；　and　a　mile　and　three　quarters　across　it　to　the　beach。　　A　straight　course　from　the　landing　to　the　village　of　Portsmouth；　on　the　lower　side　of　the　inlet；　was　a　distance　of　five　miles；　and　not　one　of　the　hardy　watermen；　who　thumped　the　sides　of　my　boat　with　their　hard　fists　to　ascertain　its　strength；　believed　that　I　could　cross　the　sound　to　the　other　village　　without　rolling　over。　　One　kind…hearted　oysterman　offered　to　carry　myself　and　boat　to　Portsmouth；　but　as　the　day　was　calm；　I　rowed　away　on　the　five…mile　stretch　amid　doleful　prognostications；　such　as：　〃That　feller　will　make　a　coffin　for　　hisself　out　of　that　yere　gimcrack　of　an　egg…shell。　It's　all　a　man's　life　is　wurth　to　go　in　her；〃　&c。

While　approaching　the　low　Portsmouth　shore　of　the　sound；　flocks　of　Canada　geese　flew　within　pistol…shot　of　my　head。　　A　man　in　a　dug…out　canoe　told　me　that　the　gunners　of　the　village　had　reared　from　the　egg　a　flock　of　wild　geese　which　now　aggregated　some　seven　or　eight　　hundred　birds；　and　that　these　now　flying　about　were　used　to　decoy　their　wild　relatives。

Near　the　beach　a　sandy　hill　had　been　the　place　of　sepulture　for　the　inhabitants　of　other　　generations；　but　for　years　past　the　tidal　current　had　been　cutting　the　shore　away　until　coffin　after　coffin　with　its　contents　had　been　washed　into　the　sound。　　Captain　Isaac　S。　Jennings；　of　Ocean　County；　New　Jersey；　had　described　this　spot　to　me　as　follows：

〃I　landed　at　Portsmouth　and　examined　this　curious　burial…ground。　　Here　by　the　water　were　the　remains　of　the　fathers；　mothers；　brothers；　and　sisters　of　the　people　of　the　village　so　near　at　hand；　yet　these　dismal　relics　of　their　ancestors　were　allowed　to　be　stolen　away　piecemeal　by　th