voyage of the paper canoe-第23章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


ing　out　of　the　companion…way　while　the　water　was　a…running　down　stairs　like　a　crick。　Says　he；　ruther　hurriedly；　'Sonny；　what's　up？'　It　isn't　what's　up；　daddy；　but　what's　down；'　sez　I；　it　sort　o'　looks　as　if　we　had　capsized。'　Sure　'nuff；'　answered　dad；　as　the　ballast　shifted　and　the　schooner　rolled　over　keel　uppermost。　We　floundered　about　like　porpoises；　but　managed　to　get　astride　her　backbone；　when　dad　looked　kind　of　scornfully　at　me；　and　burst　out　with；　'Sonny；　do　you　call　yourself　a　keerful　sailor？'　'Keerful　enough；　dad；'　sez　I；　'for　a　smart　one。　It's　more　credit　to　a　man　to　drive　his　vessel　like　a　sailor；　than　to　be　crawling　and　bobbing　along　like　a　diamond…backed　terrapin。'　　Now；　stranger；　if　you'll　believe　me；　that　keerful　old　father　of　mine　would　never　let　me　take　the　helum　again；　so　I　sticks　to　my　aunt　at　the　cape。〃

I　found　that　the　boat　in　which　we　were　sailing　was　a　dug…out；　made　from　two　immense　cypress　logs。　　Larger　boats　than　this　are　made　of　three　logs；　and　smaller　ones　are　dug　out　of　one。

Burnett　told　me　that　frame　boats　were　so　easily　pounded　to　pieces　on　the　shoals；　that　dug…outs　were　preferred　　being　very　durable。　　We　soon　passed　the　hamlet　of　North　Kinnakeet；　then　Scarsborough　with　its　low　houses；　then　South　Kinnakeet　with　its　two　wind…mills；　and　after　these　arose　a　sterile；　bald　beach　with　Hatteras　light…tower　piercing　the　sky；　and　west　of　it　　Hatteras　woods　and　marshes。　　We　approached　the　low　shore　and　ascended　a　little　creek；　where　we　left　our　boats；　and　repaired　to　the　cottage　of　Burnett's　aunt。

After　the　barren　shores　I　had　passed；　this　little　house；　imbedded　in　living　green；　was　like　a　bright　star　in　a　dark　night。　　It　was　hidden　away　in　a　heavy　thicket　of　live…oaks　and　cedars；　and　surrounded　by　yaupons；　the　bright　red　　berries　of　which　glistened　against　the　light　green　leaves。　　An　old　woman　stood　in　the　doorway　with　a　kindly　greeting　for　her　〃wild　boy；〃　　rejoicing　the　while　that　he　had　〃got　back　to　his　old　aunty　once　more。〃

〃Yes；　aunty；〃　said　my　friend　Lorenzo；　〃I　am　back　again　like　a　bad　penny；　but　not　　empty…handed；　for　as　soon　as　our　season's　catch　of　blue…fish　is　sold；　old　aunty　will　have　sixty　or　seventy　dollars。〃

〃He　has　a　good　heart；　if　he　is　so　head…strong；〃　whispered　the　motherly　woman；　as　she　wiped　a　tear　from　her　eyes；　and　gazed　with　pride　upon　the　manly…looking　young　fellow；　and　　invited　us　in　to　tea　　YAUPON。




CHAPTER　X。　　FROM　CAPE　HATTERAS　TO　CAPE　FEAR；　NORTH　CAROLINA。



CAPE　HATTERAS　LIGHT。　　HABITS　OF　BIRDS。　　STORM　AT　　HATTERAS　INLET　　MILES　OF　WRECKS。　　THE　　YACHT　JULIA　SEARCHING　FOR　THE　PAPER　CANOE。　　CHASED　BY　PORPOISES。　　MARSH　TACKIES。　　OCRACOKE　INLET。　　A　GRAVE…YARD　　BEING　SWALLOWED　UP　BY　THE　SEA。　　CORE　SOUND。　　THREE　WEDDINGS　AT　HUNTING　QUARTERS。　　MOREHEAD　CITY。　　NEWBERN。　　SWANSBORO。　　A　PEA…NUT　PLANTATION。　　THE　ROUTE　TO　CAPE　FEAR。


Cape　Hatteras　is　the　apex　of　a　　triangle。　　It　is　the　easternmost　part　of　the　state　of　North　Carolina；　and　it　extends　farther　into　the　ocean　than　any　Atlantic　cape　of　the　United　States。　　It　presents　a　low；　broad；　sandy　point　to　the　sea；　and　for　several　miles　beyond　it；　in　the　ocean；　are　the　dangerous　Diamond　Shoals；　the　dread　of　the　mariner。

The　Gulf　Stream；　with　its　river…like　current　of　water　flowing　northward　from　the　Gulf　of　Mexico；　in　its　oscillations　from　east　to　west　　frequently　approaches　to　within　eighteen　or　twenty　miles　of　the　cape；　filling　a　large　area　of　　atmosphere　with　its　warmth；　and　causing　frequent　local　disturbances。　　The　weather　never　remains　long　in　a　settled　state。　　As　most　vessels　try　to　make　Hatteras　Light；　to　ascertain　their　true　　position；　&c。；　and　because　it　juts　out　so　far　into　the　Atlantic；　the　locality　has　become　the　scene　of　many　wrecks；　and　the　beach；　from　the　cape　down　to　Hatteras　Inlet；　fourteen　miles；　is　strewn　with　the　fragments　of　vessels。

The　coast　runs　north　and　south　above；　and　east　and　west　south　of　the　cape。　　The　old　light　house　had　been　replaced　by　the　finest　light…tower　I　had　ever　examined；　which　was　completed　in　1870。　　It　is　one　hundred　and　ninety　feet　in　height；　and　shows　a　white；　revolving　light。

Body　Island　Light；　though　forty　feet　less　in　elevation；　is　frequently　seen　by　the　Hatteras　light…keeper；　while　the　splendid　Hatteras　Light　had　been　seen　but　once　by　Captain　Hatzel；　of　Body　Island。　　One　nautical　mile　south　of　　Hatteras　Light　is　a　small　beacon　light…tower；　which　is　of　great　service　to　the　coasting…vessels　that　pass　it　in　following　the　eighteen…feet　curve　of　the　cape　two　miles　from　the　land　inside　of　　Diamond　Shoals。

While　speaking　of　light…houses；　it　may　be　interesting　to　naturalists　who　live　far　inland　to　know　that　while　（as　they　are　well　aware）　　thousands　of　birds　are　killed　annually　during　their　flights　by　striking　against　telegraphic　wires；　many　wild…fowls　are　also　destroyed　by　dashing　against　the　lanterns　of　the　light…　towers　during　the　night。　　While　at　Body　Island　Beach；　Captain　Hatzel　remarked　to　me　that；　during　the　first　winter　after　the　new　light…tower　was　completed；　the　snow…geese；　which　winter　on　the　island；　would　frequently　at　night　strike　the　thick　glass　panes　of　the　chamber；　and　fall　senseless　upon　the　floor　of　the　gallery。　　The　second　season　they　did　not　in　a　single　instance　repeat　the　mistake；　but　had　seemingly　become　educated　to　the　character　of　the　danger。

I　have　seen　one　lantern　damaged　to　the　amount　of　five　hundred　dollars；　by　a　goose　breaking　a　pane　of　glass　and　striking　heavily　upon　the　costly　lens　which　surrounds　the　lamp。　Light…keepers　sometimes　sit　upon　the　gallery；　and；　looking　along　the　pathway　of　light　which　shoots　into　the　outer　darkness　over　their　heads；　will　see　a　few　dark　specks　approaching　them　in　this　beam　of　radiance。　　These　specks　are　birds；　confused　by　the　bright　rays；　and　ready　to　fall　an　easy　prey　to　the　eager　keeper；　who；　quickly　　levelling　his　double…barrelled　gun；　brings　it　to　bear　upon　the　opaque；　moving　cloud；　and　with　the　discharge　of　the　weapon　there　goes　whirling　through　space　to　the　earth　below　his　next　　morning's　breakfast　of　wild…fowl。

I　found　Mr。　W。　R。　Jennett　and　his　first　　assistant　light…keeper；　Mr。　A。　W。　Simpson；　intelligent　gentlemen。　　The　assistant　has　devoted　his　time；　when　off　duty；　to　the　study　of　the　habits　of　food…fishes　of　the　sound；　and　has　furnished　the　United　States　Commission　of　Fisheries　with　　several　papers　on　that　interesting　subject。

Here　also　was　Mr。　George　Onslow；　of　the　United　States　Signal　Service；　who　had　completed　his　work　of　constructing　a　telegraph　line　from　Norfolk　along　the　beach　southward　to　this　point；　its　present　terminus。　　With　a　fine　telescope　he　could　frequently　identify　vessels　a　few　miles　from　the　cape；　and　telegraph　their　position　to　New　York。　He　had　lately　saved　a　vessel　by　telegraphing　to　Norfolk　its　dangerous　location　on　Hatteras　beach；　where　it　had　grounded。　　By　this　timely　notice　a　wrecking…steamer　had　　arrived　and　hauled　the　schooner　off　in　good　　condition。

A　low　range　of　hills　commences　at　Cape　　Hatteras；　in　the　rear　of　the　light…house；　and　extends　nearly　to　Hatteras　Inlet。　　This　range　is　heavily　wooded　with　live…oaks；　yellow　pines；　yaupons；　cedars；　and　bayonet…plants。　　The　fishermen　and　wreckers　live　in　rudely　constructed　houses；　　sheltered　by　this　thicket；　which　is　dense　enough　to

protect　them　from　the　strong　winds　that　blow　from　the　ocean　and　the　sound。

I　walked　twelve　miles　through　this　pretty；　green　retreat；　and　spent　Sunday　with　Mr。　Homer　W。　Styron；　who　keeps　a　small　store　about　two　miles　from　the　inlet。　　He　is　a　self…taught　　astronomer；　and　used　an　ingeniously　constructed　telescope　of　his　own　manufacture　for　studying　the　heavens。

I　found　at　the　post…office　in　his　store　a　letter　from　a　yachting　party　which　had　left　Newbern；　North　Carolina；　to　capture　the　paper　canoe　and　to　force　upon　its　captain　the　hospitality　of　the　people　of　that　city；　on　the　Neuse　River；　one　hundred　miles　from　the　cape。　Judge　I。E。　West；　the　owner　of　the　yacht　〃Julia；〃　and　his　friends；　had　been　cruising　since　the　eleventh　day　of　the　month　from　Ocracoke　Inlet　to　Roanoke　Island　in　search　of　me。　Judge　West；　in　his　letter；　　expressed　a　strong　desire　to　have　me　take　my　Christmas　dinner　with　his　family。　　This　　generous　treatment　from　a　stranger　was　fully　　appreciated；　and　I　determined　to　push　on　to　Morehead　City；　from　which　place　it　would　be　convenient　to　reach　Newbern　by　rail　without　changing　my　established　route　southward；　as　I　would　be　compelled　to　do　if　the　regular　water　route　of　the　Neuse　River　from　Pamlico　Sound　were　followed。

On　this　Saturday　night；　spent　at　Hatteras　Inlet；　there　broke　upon　us　one　of　the　fiercest　tempests　I　ever　witnessed；　even　in　the　tropics。　　My　　pedestrian　tramp　down　the　shore　had　scarcely　ended　when　it　commenced　in　reality。　　For　miles　along　the　beach　thousands　of　acres　of　land　were　soon　submerged　by　the　sea　and　by　the　torrents　of　water　which　fell　from　the　clouds。　　While　for　a　moment　the　night　was　dark　as　Erebus；　again　the　vivid　flash　of　lightning　exposed　to　view　the　swaying　forests　and　the　gloomy　sound。　The　sea　pounded　on　the　beach　as　if　asking　for　admission　to　old　Pamplico。　　It　seemed　to　say；　I　demand　a　new　inlet；　and；　as　though　trying　to　carry　out　its　desire；　sent　great　waves　rolling　up　the　shingle　and　over　into　the　hollows　among　the　hills；　　washing　down　the　low　sand　dunes　as　if　they　also　were　in　collusion　with　it　to　remove　this　frail　barrier；　this　narrow　strip　of　low　land　which　separated　the　Atlantic　from　the　wide　interior　sheet　of　water。

The　phosphorescent　sea；　covered　with　its　tens　of　millions　of　animalcula；　each　one　a　miniature　light…house；　changed　in　color　from　inky　blackness　to　silver　sheen。　　Will　the　ocean　take　to　itself　this　frail　foothold？　　we　queried。　　Will　it　　ingulf　us　in　its　insatiable　maw；　as　the　whale　did　Jonah？　There　was　no　subsidence；　no　pause　in　the　storm。　It　howled；　bellowed；　and　screeched　like　a　legion　of　demons；　so　that　the　crashing　of　falling　trees；　and　the　twisting　of　the　sturdy　　live　oak's　toughest　limbs；　could　hardly　be　heard　in　the　din。　　Yet　during　this　wild　night　my　　storm…hardened　companion　sat　with　his　pretty　wife　by　the　open　fireplace；　as　unmoved　as　though　we　were　in　the　shelter　of　a　mountain　side；　while　he　calmly　discoursed　of　storms；　shipwrecks；　and　terrible　struggles　for　life　that　this　lonely　coast　had　witnessed；　which　sent　thrills　of　horror　to　my　heart。

While　traversing　the　beach　during　the　　afternoon；　as　wreck　after　wreck；　the　gravestones　of　departed　ships；　projected　their　timbers　from　the　sands；　I　had　made　a　calculation　of　the　number　of　vessels　which　had　left　their　hulls　to　rot　on　Hatteras　beach　since　the　ships　of　Sir　Walter　Raleigh　had　anchored　above　the　cape；　and　it　　resulted　in　making　one　continuous　line　of　vessels；　wreck　touching　wreck；　along　the　coast　for　many；　many　miles。　　Hundreds　of　miles　of　the　Atlantic　coast　beaches　would　have　been　walled　in　by　the　wrecks　could　they　have　come　on　to　the　strand　at　one　time；　and　all　the　dwellers　along　the　coast；　outside　of　the　towns；　would　have　been　placed　in　independent　circumstances　by　wrecking　their　cargoes。

During　this　wild　night；　while　the　paper　canoe　was　safely　stowed　in　the　rushes　of　the　marsh　at　the　cape；　and　its　owner　was　enjoying　the　warmth　of　the　young　astronomer's　fire　at　the　inlet；　less　than　twenty　miles　from　us；　on　the　dangerous　edge　of　Ocracoke　shoals；　the　searching　pa