voyage of the paper canoe-第26章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！



At　dawn　the　canoe　was　put　into　Core　Sound；　and　I　followed　the　western　shore；　cheered　by　the　bright　sun　of　our　Saviour's　natal　day。　　At　noon　the　mouth　of　the　thoroughfare　between　Harker's　Island　and　the　mainland　was　unintentionally　passed；　and　I　rowed　along　by　the　side　of　the　island　next　Fort　Macon；　which　is　inside　of　the　angle　made　by　Cape　Lookout。

Finding　it　impossible　to　reach　Newbern　via　Morehead　City　that　day；　the　canoe　was　beached　upon　the　end　of　Harker's　Island；　where　I　　breakfasted　at　the　fashionable　hour　of　two　P。　M。；　with　men；　women；　and　children　around　me。　　My　mode　of　cooking　the　condensed　food　and　liquid　beef；　so　quickly　prepared　for　the　palate；　and　the　remarkable　boat　of　paper；　all　filled　the　islanders　with　wonder。　　They　were　at　first　a　little　shy；　looking　upon　the　apparition　　which　seemed　in　some　wonderful　way　to　have　dropped　upon　their　beach　　with　the　light　of　curiosity　in　their　eyes。

Then；　as　I　explained　the　many　uses　to　which　paper　was　put；　even　to　the　paying　off　of　great　national　debts；　my　audience　became　very　　friendly；　and　offered　to　get　me　up　a　Christmas　dinner　in　their　cabins　among　the　groves　of　trees　near　the　strand；　if　I　would　tarry　with　them　until　night。　But　time　was　precious；　so；　with　thanks　on　my　part　for　their　kind　offers；　we　parted；　they　helping　me　launch　my　little　boat；　and　waving　a　cheerful　adieu　as　I　headed　the　canoe　for　Beaufort；　which　was　quietly　passed　in　the　middle　of　the　afternoon。

Three　miles　further　on；　the　railroad　pier　of　Morehead　City；　in　Bogue　Sound；　was　reached；　and　a　crowd　of　people　carried　the　canoe　into　the　hotel。　　A　telegram　was　soon　received　from　the　superintendent　of　the　railroad　at　Newbern；　inviting　me　to　a　free　ride　to　the　city　in　the　first　train　of　the　following　morning。

The　reader　who　has　followed　me　since　I　left　the　chilly　regions　of　the　St。　Lawrence　must　not　have　his　patience　taxed　by　too　much　detail；　lest　he　should　weary　of　my　story　and　desert　my　company。　Were　it　not　for　this　fear；　it　would　give　me　pleasure　to　tell　how　a　week　was　passed　in　Newbern；　how　the　people　came　even　from　interior　towns　to　see　the　paper　canoe；　how　some；　doubting　my　veracity；　slyly　stuck　the　blades　of　their　pocket…knives　through　the　thin　sides　of　the　canoe；　forgetting　that　it　had　yet　to　traverse　many　dangerous　inlets；　and　that　its　owner　preferred　a　tight；　dry　boat　to　one　　punctured　by　knives。　　Even　old　men　became　　enthusiastic；　and　when　I　was　absent　from　my　little　craft；　an　uncontrollable　ambition　seized　them；　and　they　got　into　the　frail　shell　as　it　rested　upon　the　floor　of　a　hall；　and　threatened　its　　destruction。　　It　seemed　impossible　to　make　one　　gentleman　of　Newbern　understand　that　when　the　boat　was　in　the　water　she　was　resting　upon　all　her　bearings；　but　when　out　of　water　only　upon　a　thin　strip　of　wood。

〃By　George；〃　said　this　stout　gentleman　in　a　whisper　to　a　friend；　〃I　told　my　wife　I　would　get　into　that　boat　if　I　smashed　it。〃

〃And　what　did　the　lady　say；　old　fellow？〃　asked　the　friend。　〃O；〃　he　replied；　'〃she　said；　'Now　don't　make　a　fool　of　yourself；　Fatness；　or　your　ambition　may　get　you　into　the　papers；'〃　and　the　speaker　fairly　shook　with　laughter。

While　at　Newbern；　Judge　West　and　his　brother　organized　a　grand　hunt；　and　the　railroad　　company　sent　us　down　the　road　eighteen　miles　to　a　wild　district；　where　deer；　coons；　and　wild…fowl　were　plentiful；　and　where　we　hunted　all　night　for　coons　and　ducks；　and　all　day　for　deer。　　Under　these　genial　influences　the　practical　study　of　geography　for　the　first　time　seemed　dull；　and　I　became　aware　that；　under　the　efforts　of　the　　citizens　of　Newbern　to　remind　me　of　the　charms　of　civilized　society；　I　was；　as　a　travelling　　geographer；　fast　becoming　demoralized。

Could　I；　after　the　many　pleasures　I　was　daily　enjoying；　settle　down　to　a　steady　pull　and　one　meal　a　day　with　a　lunch　of　dry　crackers；　or　sleep　on　the　floor　of　fishermen's　cabins；　with　fleas　and　other　little　annoyances　attendant　　thereon？　　Having　realized　my　position；　I　tore　myself　away　from　my　many　new　friends　and　retraced　my　steps　to　Morehead　City；　leaving　it　on　　Tuesday；　January　5th；　and　rowing　down　the　little　sound　called　Bogue　towards　Cape　Fear。

As　night　came　on　I　discovered　on　the　shore　a　grass　cabin；　which　was　on　the　plantation　of　Dr。　Emmett；　and　had　been　left　tenantless　by　some　fisherman。　　This　served　for　shelter　during　the　night　though　the　struggles　and　squealings　of　a　drove　of　hogs　attempting　to　enter　through　the　rickety　door　did　not　contribute　much　to　my　repose。

The　watercourses　now　became　more　　intricate；　growing　narrower　as　I　rowed　southward。　The　open　waters　of　the　sound　were　left　behind；　and　I　entered　a　labyrinth　of　creeks　and　small　sheets　of　water；　which　form　a　network　in　the　marshes　between　the　sandy　beach…islands　and　the　mainland　all　the　way　to　Cape　Fear　River。　The　Core　Sound　sheet　of　the　United　States　Coast　Survey　ended　at　Cape　Lookout；　there　　being　no　charts　of　the　route　to　Masonboro。　　I　was　therefore　now　travelling　upon　local　knowledge；　which　proves　usually　a　very　uncertain　guide。

In　a　cold　rain　the　canoe　reached　the　little　　village　of　Swansboro；　where　the　chief　personage　of　the　place　of　two　hundred　inhabitants；　Mr。　McLain；　removed　me　from　my　temporary　　camping…place　in　an　old　house　near　the　turpentine　distilleries　into　his　own　comfortable　quarters。

There　are　twenty　mullet　fisheries　within　ten　miles　of　Swansboro；　which　employ　from　fifteen　to　eighteen　men　each。　　The　pickled　and　dried　roe　of　this　fish　is　shipped　to　Wilmington　and　to　Cincinnati。　　Wild…fowls　abound；　and　the　　shooting　is　excellent。　　The　fishermen　say　flocks　of　ducks　seven　miles　in　length　have　been　seen　on　the　waters　of　Bogue　Sound。　　Canvas…backs　are　called　〃raft…ducks〃　here；　and　they　sell　from　twelve　to　twenty　cents　each。　　Wild　geese　bring　forty　cents；　and　brant　thirty。

The　marsh…ponies　feed　upon　the　beaches；　in　a　half　wild　state；　with　the　deer　and　cattle；　cross　the　marshes　and　swim　the　streams　from　the　　mainland　to　the　beaches　in　the　spring；　and　graze　there　until　winter；　when　they　collect　in　little　herds；　and　instinctively　return　to　the　piny　woods　of　the　uplands。　　Messrs。　Weeks　and　Taylor　had　shot；　while　on　a　four…days'　hunt　up　the　White　Oak　River；　twenty　deer。　　Captain　H。　D。　Heady；　of　Swansboro；　informed　me　that　the　ducks　and　geese　he　killed　in　one　winter　supplied　him　with　one　hundred　pounds　of　selected　feathers。　　　Captain　Heady's　description　of　Bogue　Inlet　was　not　encouraging　for　the　future　prosperity　of　this　coast；　and　the　same　may　be　said　of　all　the　inlets　between　it　and　Cape　Fear。

Rainy　weather　kept　me　within　doors　until　Friday；　the　7th　of　January；　when　I　rowed　down　White　Oak　River　to　Bogue　Inlet；　and　turned　into　the　beach　thoroughfare；　which　led　me　three　miles　and　a　half　to　Bear　Inlet。　　My　course　now　lay　through　creeks　among　the　marshes　to　the　Stand…Back；　near　the　mainland；　where　the　tides　between　the　two　inlets　head。　　Across　this　shoal　spot　I　traversed　tortuous　watercourses　with　mud　flats；　from　which　beds　of　sharp　raccoon　oysters　projected　and　scraped　the　keel　of　my　boat。

The　sea　was　now　approached　from　the　　mainland　to　Brown's　Inlet；　where　the　tide　ran　like　a　mill…race；　swinging　my　canoe　in　great　circles　as　I　crossed　it　to　the　lower　side。　　Here　I　took　the　widest　thoroughfare；　and　left　the　beach　only　to　retrace　my　steps　to　follow　one　nearer　the　strand；　which　conducted　me　to　the　end　of　the　natural　system　of　watercourses；　where　I　found　a　ditch；　dug　seventy　years　before；　which　connected　the　last　system　of　waters　with　another　series　of　creeks　that　emptied　their　waters　into　New　River　Inlet。

Emerging　from　the　marshes；　my　course　led　me　away　from　New　River　Inlet；　across　open　sheets　of　water　to　the　mainland；　where　Dr。　Ward's　cotton　plantation　occupied　a　large　and　cultivated　area　in　the　wilderness。　It　was　nearly　two　miles　from　his　estate　down　to　the　inlet。　The　intervening　flats　among　the　island　marshes　of　New　River　were　covered　with　natural　beds　of　oysters；　upon　which　the　canoe　scraped　as　I　crossed　to　the　narrow　entrance　of　Stump　Sound。　Upon　rounding　a　point　of　land　I　found；　snugly　ensconced　in　a　grove；　the　cot　of　an　oysterman；　Captain　Risley　Lewis；　who；　after　informing　me　that　his　was　the　last　habitation　to　be　found　in　that　vicinity；　pressed　me　to　be　his　guest。

The　next　day　proved　one　of　trial　to　patience　and　muscle。　　The　narrow　watercourses；　which　like　a　spider's　web　penetrate　the　marshes　with　numerous　small　sheets　of　water；　made　travelling　a　most　difficult　task。　　At　times　I　was　lost；　again　my　canoe　was　lodged　upon　oyster…beds　in　the　shallow　ponds　of　water；　the　mud　bottoms　of　which　would　not　hear　my　weight　if　I　attempted　to　get　overboard　to　lighten　the　little　craft。

Alligator　Lake；　two　miles　in　width；　was　crossed　without　seeing　an　alligator。　　Saurians　are　first　met　with；　as　the　traveller　proceeds　south；　in　the　vicinity　of　Alligator　Creek　and　the　Neuse　River；　in　the　latitude　of　Pamplico　Sound。　　During　the　cold　weather　they　hide　themselves　in　the　soft；　muddy　bottoms　of　creeks　and　lagoons。　All　the　negroes；　and　many　of　the　white　people　of　the　south；　assert；　that　when　captured　in　his　winter　bed；　this　huge　reptile's　stomach　contains　the　hard　knot　of　a　pine…tree；　but　for　what　purpose　he　swallows　it　they　are　at　a　loss　to　explain。

In　twelve　miles　of　tortuous　windings　there　appeared　but　one　sign　of　human　life　　a　little　cabin　on　a　ridge　of　upland　among　the　fringe　of　marshes　that　bordered　on　Alligator　Lake。　　It　was　cheering　to　a　lonely　canoeist　to　see　this　house；　and　the　clearing　around　it　with　the　　season's　crop　of　corn　in　stacks　dotting　the　field。　All　this　region　is　called　Stump　Sound；　but　that　sheet　of　water　is　a　well…defined；　narrow；　　lake…like　watercourse；　which　was　entered　not　long　after　I　debouched　from　Alligator　Lake。　　Stump　Inlet　having　closed　up　eighteen　months　before　my　visit；　the　sound　and　its　tributaries　received　tidal　water　from　New　Topsail　Inlet。

It　was　a　cold　and　rainy　evening　when　I　sought　shelter　in　an　old　boat…house；　at　a　landing　on　Topsail　Sound；　soon　after　leaving　Stump　Sound。　While　preparing　for　the　night's　camp；　the　son　of　the　proprietor　of　the　plantation　discovered　the；　to　him；　unheard…of　spectacle　of　a　paper　boat　upon　the　gravelly　strand。　　Filled　with　curiosity　and　delight；　he　dragged　me；　paddle　in　hand；　through　an　avenue　of　trees　to　a　hill　upon　which　a　large　house　was　located。　　This　was　the　boy's　home。　　Leaving　me　on　the　broad　steps　of　the　veranda；　he　rushed　into　the　hall；　shouting　to　the　family；　〃Here's　a　sailor　who　has　come　from　the　north　in　a　PAPER　boat。〃

This　piece　of　intelligence　roused　the　good　people　to　merriment。　〃Impossible！〃　〃A　boat　made　of　paper！〃　〃Nonsense！〃

The　boy；　however；　would　not　be　put　down。　〃But　it　is　made　of　paper；　I　tell　you；　for　I　pinched　it　and　stuck　my　nails　into　it；〃　he　　replied　earnestly。

〃You　are　crazy；　my　boy；〃　some　one　　responded；　〃a　paper　boat　never　could　go　through　these　sounds；　the　coon　oysters　would　cut　it　in　pieces。　　Now　tell　us；　is　the　sailor　made　of　paper；　like　his　boat？〃

〃Indeed；　mother；　what　I　tell　you　is　true；　and；　O；　I　forgot！　here's　the　sailor　on　the　steps；　where　I　left　him。〃　　In　an　instant　the　whole　family　were　out　upon　the　veranda。　　Seeing　my　　embarrassment；　they　tried；　like　well…bred　people；　to　check　their　merriment；　while　I　explained　to　them　the　way　in　which　the　boy　had　captured　me；　and　proposed　at　once　returning　to　my