the complete writings-2-第15章

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　if　the　bands　do　not；　as　many　of　them　do；　play　within　doors。　　The　line　of　droschke　drivers；　in　front　of　the　post…office　colonnade；　hide　the　red　facings　of　their　coats　under　long　overcoats；　and　stand　in　cold　expectancy　beside　their　blanketed　horses；　which　must　need　twice　the　quantity　of　black…bread　in　this　chilly　air；　for　the　horses　here　eat　bread；　like　people。　　I　see　the　drivers　every　day　slicing　up　the　black　loaves；　and　feeding　them；　taking　now　and　then　a　mouthful　themselves；　wetting　it　down　with　a　pull　from　the　mug　of　beer　that　stands　within　reach。　　And　lastly　（I　am　still　speaking　of　the　weather）；　the　gay　military　officers　come　abroad　in　long　cloaks；　to　some　extent　concealing　their　manly　forms　and　smart　uniforms；　which　I　am　sure　they　would　not　do；　except　under　the　pressure　of　necessity。

Yet　I　think　this　raw　weather　is　not　to　continue。　　It　is　only　a　rough　visit　from　the　Tyrol；　which　will　give　place　to　kinder　influences。　　We　came　up　here　from　hot　Switzerland　at　the　end　of　July；　expecting　to　find　Munich　a　furnace。　　It　will　be　dreadful　in　Munich　everybody　said。　So　we　left　Luzerne；　where　it　was　warm；　not　daring　to　stay　till　the　expected　rival　sun；　Victoria　of　England；　should　make　the　heat　overpowering。　　But　the　first　week　of　August　in　Munich　it　was　delicious　weather；clear；　sparkling；　bracing　air；　with　no　chill　in　it　and　no　languor　in　it；　just　as　you　would　say　it　ought　to　be　on　a　high；　gravelly　plain；　seventeen　hundred　feet　above　the　sea。　　Then　came　a　week　of　what　the　Muncheners　call　hot　weather；　with　the　thermometer　up　to　eighty　degrees　Fahrenheit；　and　the　white　wide　streets　and　gray　buildings　in　a　glare　of　light；　since　then；　weather　of　the　most　uncertain　sort。

Munich　needs　the　sunlight。　　Not　that　it　cannot　better　spare　it　than　grimy　London；　for　its　prevailing　color　is　light　gray；　and　its　many…tinted　and　frescoed　fronts　go　far　to　relieve　the　most　cheerless　day。　　Yet　Munich　attempts　to　be　an　architectural　reproduction　of　classic　times；　and；　in　order　to　achieve　any　success　in　this　direction；　it　is　necessary　to　have　the　blue　heavens　and　golden　sunshine　of　Greece。　　The　old　portion　of　the　city　has　some　remains　of　the　Gothic；　and　abounds　in　archways　and　rambling　alleys；　that　suddenly　become　broad　streets　and　then　again　contract　to　the　width　of　an　alderman；　and　portions　of　the　old　wall　and　city　gates；　old　feudal　towers　stand　in　the　market…place；　and　faded　frescoes　on　old　clock…faces　and　over　archways　speak　of　other　days　of　splendor。

But　the　Munich　of　to…day　is　as　if　built　to　order；raised　in　a　day　by　the　command　of　one　man。　　It　was　the　old　King　Ludwig　I。；　whose　flower…wreathed　bust　stands　in　these　days　in　the　vestibule　of　the　Glyptothek；　in　token　of　his　recent　death；　who　gave　the　impulse　for　all　this；　though　some　of　the　best　buildings　and　streets　in　the　city　have　been　completed　by　his　successors。　　The　new　city　is　laid　out　on　a　magnificent　scale　of　distances；　with　wide　streets；　fine；　open　squares；　plenty　of　room　for　gardens；　both　public　and　private；　and　the　art　buildings　and　art　monuments　are　well　distributed；　in　fact；　many　a　stately　building　stands　in　such　isolation　that　it　seems　to　ask　every　passer　what　it　was　put　there　for。　　Then；　again；　some　of　the　new　adornments　lack　fitness　of　location　or　purpose。　　At　the　end　of　the　broad；　monotonous　Ludwig　Strasse；　and　yet　not　at　the　end；　for　the　road　runs　straight　on　into　the　flat　country　between　rows　of　slender　trees；　stands　the　Siegesthor；　or　Gate　of　Victory；　an　imitation　of　the　Constantine　arch　at　Rome。　　It　is　surmounted　by　a　splendid　group　in　bronze；　by　Schwanthaler；　Bavaria　in　her　war…chariot；　drawn　by　four　lions；　and　it　is　in　itself；　both　in　its　proportions　and　its　numerous　sculptural　figures　and　bas…reliefs；　a　fine　recognition　of　the　valor　〃of　the　Bavarian　army；〃　to　whom　it　is　erected。　　Yet　it　is　so　dwarfed　by　its　situation；　that　it　seems　to　have　been　placed　in　the　middle　of　the　street　as　an　obstruction。　　A　walk　runs　on　each　side　of　it。　　The　Propylaeum；　another　magnificent　gateway；　thrown　across　the　handsome　Brienner　Strasse；　beyond　the　Glyptothek；　is　an　imitation　of　that　on　the　Acropolis　at　Athens。　　It　has　fine　Doric　columns　on　the　outside；　and　Ionic　within；　and　the　pediment　groups　are　bas…reliefs；　by　Schwanthaler；　representing　scenes　in　modern　Greek　history。　　The　passageways　for　carriages　are　through　the　side　arches；　and　thus　the　〃sidewalk〃　runs　into　the　center　of　the　street；　and　foot…passers　must　twice　cross　the　carriage…drive　in　going　through　the　gate。　　Such　things　as　these　give　one　the　feeling　that　art　has　been　forced　beyond　use　in　Munich；　and　it　is　increased　when　one　wanders　through　the　new　churches；　palaces；　galleries；　and　finds　frescoes　so　prodigally　crowded　out　of　the　way；　and　only　occasionally　opened　rooms　so　overloaded　with　them；　and　not　always　of　the　best；　as　to　sacrifice　all　effect；　and　leave　one　with　the　sense　that　some　demon　of　unrest　has　driven　painters　and　sculptors　and　plasterers；　night　and　day；　to　adorn　the　city　at　a　stroke；　at　least；　to　cover　it　with　paint　and　bedeck　it　with　marbles；　and　to　do　it　at　once；　leaving　nothing　for　the　sweet　growth　and　blossoming　of　time。

You　see；　it　is　easy　to　grumble；　and　especially　in　a　cheerful；　open；　light；　and　smiling　city；　crammed　with　works　Of　art；　ancient　and　modern；　its　architecture　a　study　of　all　styles；　and　its　foaming　beer；　said　by　antiquarians　to　be　a　good　deal　better　than　the　mead　drunk　in　Odin's　halls；　only　seven　and　a　half　kreuzers　the　quart。　　Munich　has　so　much；　that　it；　of　course；　contains　much　that　can　be　criticised。　The　long；　wide　Ludwig　Strasse　is　a　street　of　palaces；a　street　built　up　by　the　old　king；　and　regarded　by　him　with　great　pride。　　But　all　the　buildings　are　in　the　Romanesque　style；a　repetition　of　one　another　to　a　monotonous　degree：　only　at　the　lower　end　are　there　any　shops　or　shop…windows；　and　a　more　dreary　promenade　need　not　be　imagined。　　It　has　neither　shade　nor　fountains；　and　on　a　hot　day　you　can　see　how　the　sun　would　pour　into　it；　and　blind　the　passers。　　But　few　ever　walk　there　at　any　time。　　A　street　that　leads　nowhere；　and　has　no　gay　windows；　does　not　attract。　　Toward　the　lower　end；　in　the　Odeon　Platz；　is　the　equestrian　statue　of　Ludwig；　a　royally　commanding　figure；　with　a　page　on　either　side。　　The　street　is　closed　（so　that　it　flows　off　on　either　side　into　streets　of　handsome　shops）　by　the　Feldherrnhalle；　Hall　of　the　Generals；　an　imitation　of　the　beautiful　Loggia　dei　Lanzi；　at　Florence；　that　as　yet　contains　only　two　statues；　which　seem　lost　in　it。　　Here　at　noon；　with　parade　of　infantry；　comes　a　military　band　to　play　for　half　an　hour；　and　there　are　always　plenty　of　idlers　to　listen　to　them。　　In　the　high　arcade　a　colony　of　doves　is　domesticated；　and　I　like　to　watch　them　circling　about　and　wheeling　round　the　spires　of　the　over…decorated　Theatine　church　opposite；　and　perching　on　the　heads　of　the　statues　on　the　facade。

The　royal　palace；　near　by；　is　a　huddle　of　buildings　and　courts；　that　I　think　nobody　can　describe　or　understand；　built　at　different　times　and　in　imitation　of　many　styles。　　The　front；　toward　the　Hof　Garden；　a　grassless　square　of　small　trees；　with　open　arcades　on　two　sides　for　shops；　and　partially　decorated　with　frescoes　of　landscapes　and　historical　subjects；　is　〃a　building　of　festive　halls；〃　a　facade　eight　hundred　feet　long；　in　the　revived　Italian　style；　and　with　a　fine　Ionic　porch。　　The　color　is　the　royal；　dirty　yellow。

On　the　Max　Joseph　Platz；　which　has　a　bronze　statue　of　King　Max；　a　seated　figure；　and　some　elaborate　bas…reliefs；　is　another　front　of　the　palace；　the　Konigsbau；　an　imitation；　not　fully　carried　out；　of　the　Pitti　Palace；　at　Florence。　　Between　these　is　the　old　Residenz；　adorned　with　fountain　groups　and　statues　in　bronze。　　On　another　side　are　the　church　and　theater　of　the　Residenz。　　The　interior　of　this　court　chapel　is　dazzling　in　appearance：　the　pillars　are；　I　think；　imitation　of　variegated　marble；　the　sides　are　imitation　of　the　same；　the　vaulting　is　covered　with　rich　frescoes　on　gold　ground。　　The　whole　effect　is　rich；　but　it　is　not　at　all　sacred。　　Indeed；　there　is　no　church　in　Munich；　except　the　old　cathedral；　the　Frauenkirche；　with　its　high　Gothic　arches；　stained　windows；　and　dusty　old　carvings；　that　gives　one　at　all　the　sort　of　feeling　that　it　is　supposed　a　church　should　give。　　The　court　chapel　interior　is　boastingly　said　to　resemble　St。　Mark's；　in　Venice。

You　see　how　far　imitation　of　the　classic　and　Italian　is　carried　here　in　Munich；　so；　as　I　said；　the　buildings　need　the　southern　sunlight。　Fortunately；　they　get　the　right　quality　much　of　the　time。　　The　Glyptothek；　a　Grecian　structure　of　one　story；　erected　to　hold　the　treasures　of　classic　sculpture　that　King　Ludwig　collected；　has　a　beautiful　Ionic　porch　and　pediment。　　On　the　outside　are　niches　filled　with　statues。　　In　the　pure　sunshine　and　under　a　deep　blue　sky；　its　white　marble　glows　with　an　almost　ethereal　beauty。　　Opposite　stands　another　successful　imitation　of　the　Grecian　style　of　architecture；a　building　with　a　Corinthian　porch；　also　of　white　marble。　　These；　with　the　Propylaeum；　before　mentioned；　come　out　wonderfully　against　a　blue　sky。　　A　few　squares　distant　is　the　Pinakothek；　with　its　treasures　of　old　pictures；　and　beyond　it　the　New　Pinakothek；　containing　works　of　modern　artists。　　Its　exterior　is　decorated　with　frescoes；　from　designs　by　Kaulbach：　these　certainly　appear　best　in　a　sparkling　light；　though　I　am　bound　to　say　that　no　light　can　make　very　much　of　them。

Yet　Munich　is　not　all　imitation。　　Its　finest　street；　the　Maximilian；　built　by　the　late　king　of　that　name；　is　of　a　novel　and　wholly　modern　style　of　architecture；　not　an　imitation；　though　it　may　remind　some　of　the　new　portions　of　Paris。　　It　runs　for　three　quarters　of　a　mile；　beginning　with　the　postoffice　and　its　colonnades；　with　frescoes　on　one　side；　and　the　Hof　Theater；　with　its　pediment　frescoes；　the　largest　opera…house　in　Germany；　I　believe；　with　stately　buildings　adorned　with　statues；　and　elegant　shops；　down　to　the　swift…flowing　Isar；　which　is　spanned　by　a　handsome　bridge；　or　rather　by　two　bridges；　for　the　Isar　is　partly　turned　from　its　bed　above；　and　made　to　turn　wheels；　and　drive　machinery。　　At　the　lower　end　the　street　expands　into　a　handsome　platz；　with　young　shade　trees；　plats　of　grass；　and　gay　beds　of　flowers。　　I　look　out　on　it　as　I　write；　and　I　see　across　the　Isar　the　college　building　begun　by　Maximilian　for　the　education　of　government　officers；　and　I　see　that　it　is　still　unfinished；　indeed；　a　staring　mass　of　brick；　with　unsightly　scaffolding　and　gaping　windows。　　Money　was　left　to　complete　it；　but　the　young　king；　who　does　not　care　for　architecture；　keeps　only　a　mason　or　two　on　the　brick…work；　and　an　artist　on　the　exterior　frescoes。　　At　this　rate；　the　Cologne　Cathedral　will　be　finished　and　decay　before　this　is　built。　　On　either　side　of　it；　on　the　elevated　bank　of　the　river；　stretch　beautiful　grounds；　with　green　lawns；　fine　trees；　and　well…kept　walks。

Not　to　mention　the　English　Garden；　in　speaking　of　the　outside　aspects　of　the　city；　would　be　a　great　oversight。　　It　was　laid　out　originally　by　the　munificent　American；　Count　Rumford；　and　is　called　English；　I　suppose；　because　it　is　not　in　the　artificial　Continental　style。　Paris　has　nothing　to　compare　with　it　for　natural　beauty；Paris；　which　cannot　let　a　tree　grow；　but　must　clip　it　down　to　suit　French　taste。　　It　is　a　n