the complete writings-2-第16章

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l　beauty；Paris；　which　cannot　let　a　tree　grow；　but　must　clip　it　down　to　suit　French　taste。　　It　is　a　noble　park　four　miles　in　length；　and　perhaps　a　quarter　of　that　in　width；a　park　of　splendid　old　trees；　grand；　sweeping　avenues；　open　glades　of　free…growing　grass；　with　delicious；　shady　walks；　charming　drives　and　rivers　of　water。　　For　the　Isar　is　trained　to　flow　through　it　in　two　rapid　streams；　under　bridges　and　over　rapids；　and　by　willow…hung　banks。　　There　is　not　wanting　even　a　lake；　and　there　is；　I　am　sorry　to　say；　a　temple　on　a　mound；　quite　in　the　classic　style；　from　which　one　can　see　the　sun　set　behind　the　many　spires　of　Munich。　　At　the　Chinese　Tower　two　military　bands　play　every　Saturday　evening　in　the　summer；　and　thither　the　carriages　drive；　and　the　promenaders　assemble　there；　between　five　and　six　o'clock；　and　while　the　bands　play；　the　Germans　drink　beer；　and　smoke　cigars；　and　the　fashionably　attired　young　men　walk　round　and　round　the；　circle；　and　the　smart　young　soldiers　exhibit　their　handsome　uniforms；　and　stride　about　with　clanking　swords。

We　felicitated　ourselves　that　we　should　have　no　lack　of　music　when　we　came　to　Munich。　　I　think　we　have　not；　though　the　opera　has　only　just　begun；　and　it　is　the　vacation　of　the　Conservatoire。　　There　are　first　the　military　bands：　there　is　continually　a　parade　somewhere；　and　the　streets　are　full　of　military　music；　and　finely　executed　too。　　Then　of　beer…gardens　there　is　literally　no　end；　and　there　are　nightly　concerts　in　them。　　There　are　two　brothers　Hunn；　each　with　his　band；　who；　like　the　ancient　Huns；　have　taken　the　city；　and　its　gardens　are　given　over　to　their　unending　waltzes；　polkas；　and　opera　medleys。　Then　there　is　the　church　music　on　Sundays　and　holidays；　which　is　largely　of　a　military　character；　at　least；　has　the　aid　of　drums　and　trumpets；　and　the　whole　band　of　brass。　　For　the　first　few　days　of　our　stay　here　we　had　rooms　near　the　Maximilian　Platz　and　the　Karl's　Thor。　I　think　there　was　some　sort　of　a　yearly　fair　in　progress；　for　the　great　platz　was　filled　with　temporary　booths：　a　circus　had　set　itself　up　there；　and　there　were　innumerable　side…shows　and　lottery…stands；　and　I　believe　that　each　little　shanty　and　puppet…show　had　its　band　or　fraction　of　a　band；　for　there　was　never　heard　such　a　tooting　and　blowing　and　scraping；　such　a　pounding　and　dinning　and　slang…whanging；　since　the　day　of　stopping　work　on　the　Tower　of　Babel。　　The　circus　band　confined　itself　mostly　to　one　tune；　and　as　it　went　all　day　long；　and　late　into　the　night；　we　got　to　know　it　quite　well；　at　least；　the　bass　notes　of　it；　for　the　lighter　tones　came　to　us　indistinctly。　　You　know　that　blurt；　blurt；　thump；　thump；　dissolute　sort　of　caravan　tune。　That　was　it。

The　English　Caf？　was　not　far　off；　and　there　the　Hunns　and　others　also　made　night　melodious。　　The　whole　air　was　one　throb　and　thrump。　　The　only　refuge　from　it　was　to　go　into　one　of　the　gardens；　and　give　yourself　over　to　one　band。　　And　so　it　was　possible　to　have　delightful　music；　and　see　the　honest　Germans　drink　beer；　and　gossip　in　friendly　fellowship　and　with　occasional　hilarity。　　But　music　we　had；　early　and　late。　　We　expected　quiet　in　our　present　quarters。　　The　first　morning；　at　six　o'clock；　we　were　startled　by　the　resonant　notes　of　a　military　band；　that　set　the　echoes　flying　between　the　houses；　and　a　regiment　of　cavalry　went　clanking　down　the　street。　　But　that　is　a　not　unwelcome　morning　serenade　and　reveille。　　Not　so　agreeable　is　the　young　man　next　door；　who　gives　hilarious　concerts　to　his　friends；　and　sings　and　bangs　his　piano　all　day　Sunday；　nor　the　screaming　young　woman　opposite。　　Yet　it　is　something　to　be　in　an　atmosphere　of　music。




THE　MILITARY　LIFE　OF　MUNICH

This　morning　I　was　awakened　early　by　the　strains　of　a　military　band。　It　was　a　clear；　sparkling　morning；　the　air　full　of　life；　and　yet　the　sun　showing　its　warm；　southern　side。　　As　the　mounted　musicians　went　by；　the　square　was　quite　filled　with　the　clang　of　drum　and　trumpet；　which　became　fainter　and　fainter；　and　at　length　was　lost　on　the　ear　beyond　the　Isar；　but　preserved　the　perfection　of　time　and　the　precision　of　execution　for　which　the　military　bands　of　the　city　are　remarkable。　　After　the　band　came　a　brave　array　of　officers　in　bright　uniform；　upon　horses　that　pranced　and　curveted　in　the　sunshine；　and　the　regiment　of　cavalry　followed；　rank　on　rank　of　splendidly　mounted　men；　who　ride　as　if　born　to　the　saddle。　　The　clatter　of　hoofs　on　the　pavement；　the　jangle　of　bit　and　saber；　the　occasional　word　of　command；　the　onward　sweep　of　the　well…trained　cavalcade；　continued　for　a　long　time；　as　if　the　lovely　morning　had　brought　all　the　cavalry　in　the　city　out　of　barracks。　　But　this　is　an　almost　daily　sight　in　Munich。　　One　regiment　after　another　goes　over　the　river　to　the　drill…ground。　　In　the　hot　mornings　I　used　quite　to　pity　the　troopers　who　rode　away　in　the　glare　in　scorching　brazen　helmets　and　breastplates。　　But　only　a　portion　of　the　regiments　dress　in　that　absurd　manner。　　The　most　wear　a　simple　uniform；　and　look　very　soldierly。　　The　horses　are　almost　invariably　fine　animals；　and　I　have　not　seen　such　riders　in　Europe。　　Indeed；　everybody　in　Munich　who　rides　at　all　rides　well。　　Either　most　of　the　horsemen　have　served　in　the　cavalry；　or　horsemanship；　that　noble　art　〃to　witch　the　world；〃　is　in　high　repute　here。

Speaking　of　soldiers；　Munich　is　full　of　them。　　There　are　huge　caserns　in　every　part　of　the　city；　crowded　with　troops。　　This　little　kingdom　of　Bavaria　has　a　hundred　and　twenty　thousand　troops　of　the　line。　Every　man　is　obliged　to　serve　in　the　army　continuously　three　years；　and　every　man　between　the　ages　of　twenty…one　and　forty…five　must　go　with　his　regiment　into　camp　or　barrack　several　weeks　in　each　year；　no　matter　if　the　harvest　rots　in　the　field；　or　the　customers　desert　the　uncared…for　shop。　　The　service　takes　three　of　the　best　years　of　a　young　man's　life。　　Most　of　the　soldiers　in　Munich　are　young　one　meets　hundreds　of　mere　boys　in　the　uniform　of　officers。　　I　think　every　seventh　man　you　meet　is　a　soldier。　　There　must　be　between　fifteen　and　twenty　thousand　troops　quartered　in　the　city　now。　　The　young　officers　are　everywhere；　lounging　in　the　cafes；　smoking　and　sipping　coffee；　on　all　the　public　promenades；　in　the　gardens；　the　theaters；　the　churches。　　And　most　of　them　are　fine…looking　fellows；　good　figures　in　elegantly　fitting　and　tasteful　uniforms；　but　they　do　like　to　show　their　handsome　forms　and　hear　their　sword…scabbards　rattle　on　the　pavement　as　they　stride　by。　　The　beer…gardens　are　full　of　the　common　soldiers；　who　empty　no　end　of　quart　mugs　in　alternate　pulls　from　the　same　earthen　jug；　with　the　utmost　jollity　and　good　fellowship。　　On　the　street；　salutes　between　officers　and　men　are　perpetual；　punctiliously　given　and　returned；the　hand　raised　to　the　temple；　and　held　there　for　a　second。　　A　young　gallant；　lounging　down　the　Theatiner　or　the　Maximilian　Strasse；　in　his　shining　and　snug　uniform；　white　kids；　and　polished　boots；　with　jangling　spurs　and　the　long　sword　clanking　on　the　walk；　raising　his　hand　ever　and　anon　in　condescending　salute　to　a　lower　in　rank；　or　with　affable　grace　to　an　equal；　is　a　sight　worth　beholding；　and　for　which　one　cannot　be　too　grateful。　　We　have　not　all　been　created　with　the　natural　shape　for　soldiers；　but　we　have　eyes　given　us　that　we　may　behold　them。

Bavaria　fought；　you　know；　on　the　wrong　side　at　Sadowa；　but　the　result　of　the　war　left　her　in　confederation　with　Prussia。　　The　company　is　getting　to　be　very　distasteful；　for　Austria　is　at　present　more　liberal　than　Prussia。　　Under　Prussia　one　must　either　be　a　soldier　or　a　slave；　the　democrats　of　Munich　say。　　Bavaria　has　the　most　liberal　constitution　in　Germany；　except　that　of　Wurtemberg；　and　the　people　are　jealous　of　any　curtailment　of　liberty。　　It　seems　odd　that　anybody　should　look　to　the　house　of　Hapsburg　for　liberality。　　The　attitude　of　Prussia　compels　all　the　little　states　to　keep　up　armies；　which　eat　up　their　substance；　and　burden　the　people　with　taxes。　　This　is　the　more　to　be　regretted　now；　when　Bavaria　is　undergoing　a　peaceful　revolution；　and　throwing　off　the　trammels　of　galling　customs　in　other　respects。




THE　EMANCIPATION　OF　MUNICH

The　1st　of　September　saw　go　into　complete　effect　the　laws　enacted　in　1867；　which　have　inaugurated　the　greatest　changes　in　business　and　social　life；　and　mark　an　era　in　the　progress　of　the　people　worthy　of　fetes　and　commemorative　bronzes。　　We　heard　the　other　night　at　the　opera…house　〃William　Tell〃　unmutilated。　　For　many　years　this　liberty…　breathing　opera　was　not　permitted　to　be　given　in　Bavaria；　except　with　all　the　life　of　it　cut　out。　　It　was　first　presented　entire　by　order　of　young　King　Ludwig；　who；　they　say；　was　induced　to　command　its　unmutilated　reproduction　at　the　solicitation　of　Richard　Wagner；　who　used　to　be；　and　very　likely　is　now；　a　〃Red；〃　and　was　banished　from　Saxony　in　1848　for　fighting　on　the　people's　side　of　a　barricade　in　Dresden。　　It　is　the　fashion　to　say　of　the　young　king；　that　he　pays　no　heed　to　the　business　of　the　kingdom。　　You　hear　that　the　handsome　boy　cares　only　for　music　and　horseback　exercise：　he　plays　much　on　the　violin；　and　rides　away　into　the　forest　attended　by　only　one　groom；　and　is　gone　for　days　together。　　He　has　composed　an　opera；　which　has　not　yet　been　put　on　the　stage。　　People；　when　they　speak　of　him；　tap　their　foreheads　with　one　finger。　　But　I　don't　believe　it。　　The　same　liberality　that　induced　him；　years　ago；　to　restore　〃William　Tell〃　to　the　stage　has　characterized　the　government　under　him　ever　since。

Formerly　no　one　could　engage　in　any　trade　or　business　in　Bavaria　without　previous　examination　before；　and　permission　from；　a　magistrate。　　If　a　boy　wished　to　be　a　baker；　for　instance；　he　had　first　to　serve　four　years　of　apprenticeship。　　If　then　he　wished　to　set　up　business　for　himself；　he　must　get　permission；　after　passing　an　examination。　　This　permission　could　rarely　be　obtained；　for　the　magistrate　usually　decided　that　there　were　already　as　many　bakers　as　the　town　needed。　　His　only　other　resource　was　to　buy　out　an　existing　business；　and　this　usually　costs　a　good　deal。　　When　he　petitioned　for　the　privilege　of　starting　a　bakery；　all　the　bakers　protested。　　And　he　could　not　even　buy　out　a　stand；　and　carry　it　on；　without　strict　examination　as　to　qualifications。　　This　was　the　case　in　every　trade。　And　to　make　matters　worse；　a　master　workman　could　not　employ　a　journeyman　out　of　his　shop；　so　that；　if　a　journeyman　could　not　get　a　regular　situation；　he　had　no　work。　　Then　there　were　endless　restrictions　upon　the　manufacture　and　sale　of　articles：　one　person　could　make　only　one　article；　or　one　portion　of　an　article；　one　might　manufacture　shoes　for　women；　but　not　for　men；　he　might　make　an　article　in　the　shop　and　sell　it；　but　could　not　sell　it　if　any　one　else　made　it　outside；　or　vice　versa。

Nearly　all　this　mass　of　useless　restriction　on　trades　and　business；　which　palsied　all　effort　in　Bavaria；　is　removed。　　Persons　are　free　to　enter　into　any　business　they　like。　　The　system　of　apprenticeship　continues；　but　so　modified　as　not　to　be　oppressive；　and　all　trades　are　left　to　regulate　themselves　by　natural　competition。　　Already　Munich　has　felt　the　benefit　of　the　removal　of　these　restrictions；　which　for　nearly　a　year　has　been　anticipated；　in　a　growth　of　population　and　increased　business。