the complete writings-2-第14章

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at　the　bedside；those　narrow；　canopied　beds　there　in　the　distance；　like　the　marble　couches　in　the　cathedral。　　It　must　be　a　fearful　thing　to　be　a　royal　person；　and　dwell　in　a　palace；　with　resounding　rooms　and　naked；　waxed；　inlaid　floors。　　At　the　Three　Moors　one　sees　a　visitors'　book；　begun　in　18oo；　which　contains　the　names　of　many　noble　and　great　people；　as　well　as　poets　and　doctors　and　titled　ladies；　and　much　sentimental　writing　in　French。　　It　is　my　impression；　from　an　inspection　of　the　book；　that　we　are　the　first　untitled　visitors。

The　traveler　cannot　but　like　Augsburg　at　once；　for　its　quaint　houses；　colored　so　diversely　and　yet　harmoniously。　　Remains　of　its　former　brilliancy　yet　exist　in　the　frescoes　on　the　outside　of　the　buildings；　some　of　which　are　still　bright　in　color；　though　partially　defaced。　Those　on　the　House　of　Fugger　have　been　restored；　and　are　very　brave　pictures。　　These　frescoes　give　great　animation　and　life　to　the　appearance　of　a　street；　and　I　am　glad　to　see　a　taste　for　them　reviving。　　Augsburg　must　have　been　very　gay　with　them　two　and　three　hundred　years　ago；　when；　also；　it　was　the　home　of　beautiful　women　of　the　middle　class；　who　married　princes。　　We　went　to　see　the　house　in　which　lived　the　beautiful　Agnes　Bernauer；　daughter　of　a　barber；　who　married　Duke　Albert　III。　of　Bavaria。　　The　house　was　nought；　as　old　Samuel　Pepys　would　say；　only　a　high　stone　building；　in　a　block　of　such；　but　it　is　enough　to　make　a　house　attractive　for　centuries　if　a　pretty　woman　once　looks　out　of　its　latticed　windows；　as　I　have　no　doubt　Agnes　often　did　when　the　duke　and　his　retinue　rode　by　in　clanking　armor。

But　there　is　no　lack　of　reminders　of　old　times。　　The　cathedral；　which　was　begun　before　the　Christian　era　could　express　its　age　with　four　figures；　has　two　fine　portals；　with　quaint　carving；　and　bronze　doors　of　very　old　work；　whereon　the　story　of　Eve　and　the　serpent　is　literally　given；a　representation　of　great　theological；　if　of　small　artistic　value。　　And　there　is　the　old　clock　and　watch　tower；　which　for　eight　hundred　years　has　enabled　the　Augsburgers　to　keep　the　time　of　day　and　to　look　out　over　the　plain　for　the　approach　of　an　enemy。　The　city　is　full　of　fine　bronze　fountains　some　of　them　of　very　elaborate　design；　and　adding　a　convenience　and　a　beauty　to　the　town　which　American　cities　wholly　want。　　In　one　quarter　of　the　town　is　the　Fuggerei；　a　little　city　by　itself；　surrounded　by　its　own　wall；　the　gates　of　which　are　shut　at　night；　with　narrow　streets　and　neat　little　houses。　　It　was　built　by　Hans　Jacob　Fugger　the　Rich；　as　long　ago　as　1519；　and　is　still　inhabited　by　indigent　Roman…Catholic　families；　according　to　the　intention　of　its　founder。　　In　the　windows　were　lovely　flowers。　　I　saw　in　the　street　several　of　those　mysterious；　short；　old　women；so　old　and　yet　so　little；　all　body　and　hardly　any　legs；　who　appear　to　have　grown　down　into　the　ground　with　advancing　years。

It　happened　to　be　a　rainy　day；　and　cold；　on　the　30th　of　July；　when　we　left　Augsburg；　and　the　flat　fields　through　which　we　passed　were　uninviting　under　the　gray　light。　　Large　flocks　of　geese　were　feeding　on　the　windy　plains；　tended　by　boys　and　women；　who　are　the　living　fences　of　this　country。　　I　no　longer　wonder　at　the　number　of　feather…beds　at　the　inns；　under　which　we　are　apparently　expected　to　sleep　even　in　the　warmest　nights。　　Shepherds　with　the　regulation　crooks　also　were　watching　herds　of　sheep。　　Here　and　there　a　cluster　of　red…roofed　houses　were　huddled　together　into　a　village；　and　in　all　directions　rose　tapering　spires。　　Especially　we　marked　the　steeple　of　Blenheim；　where　Jack　Churchill　won　the　name　for　his　magnificent　country…seat；　early　in　the　eighteenth　century。　　All　this　plain　where　the　silly　geese　feed　has　been　marched　over　and　fought　over　by　armies　time　and　again。　　We　effect　the　passage　of；　the　Danube　without　difficulty；　and　on　to　Harburg；　a　little　town　of　little　red　houses；　inhabited　principally　by　Jews；　huddled　under　a　rocky　ridge；　upon　the　summit　of　which　is　a　picturesque　medieval　castle；　with　many　towers　and　turrets；　in　as　perfect　preservation　as　when　feudal　flags　floated　over　it。　　And　so　on；　slowly；　with　long　stops　at　many　stations；　to　give　opportunity；　I　suppose；　for　the　honest　passengers　to　take　in　supplies　of　beer　and　sausages；　to　Nuremberg。




A　CITY　LIVING　ON　THE　PAST

Nuremberg；　or　Nurnberg；　was　built；　I　believe；　about　the　beginning　of　time。　　At　least；　in　an　old　black…letter　history　of　the　city　which　I　have　seen；　illustrated　with　powerful　wood…cuts；　the　first　representation　is　that　of　the　creation　of　the　world；　which　is　immediately　followed　by　another　of　Nuremberg。　　No　one　who　visits　it　is　likely　to　dispute　its　antiquity。　　〃　Nobody　ever　goes　to　Nuremberg　but　Americans；〃　said　a　cynical　British　officer　at　Chamouny；　〃but　they　always　go　there。　　I　never　saw　an　American　who　had　n't　been　or　was　not　going　to　Nuremberg。〃　　Well；　I　suppose　they　wish　to　see　the　oldest…looking；　and；　next　to　a　true　Briton　on　his　travels；　the　oddest　thing　on　the　Continent。　　The　city　lives　in　the　past　still；　and　on　its　memories；　keeping　its　old　walls　and　moat　entire；　and　nearly　fourscore　wall…towers；　in　stern　array。　　But　grass　grows　in　the　moat；　fruit　trees　thrive　there；　and　vines　clamber　on　the　walls。　　One　wanders　about　in　the　queer　streets　with　the　feeling　of　being　transported　back　to　the　Middle　Ages；　but　it　is　difficult　to　reproduce　the　impression　on　paper。　　Who　can　describe　the　narrow　and　intricate　ways；　the　odd　houses　with　many　little　gables；　great　roofs　breaking　out　from　eaves　to　ridgepole；　with　dozens　of　dormer…windows；　hanging　balconies　of　stone；　carved　and　figure…beset；　ornamented　and　frescoed　fronts；　the　archways；　leading　into　queer　courts　and　alleys；　and　out　again　into　broad　streets；　the　towers　and　fantastic　steeples；　and　the　many　old　bridges；　with　obelisks　and　memorials　of　triumphal　entries　of　conquerors　and　princes？

The　city；　as　I　said；　lives　upon　the　memory　of　what　it　has　been；　and　trades　upon　relics　of　its　former　fame。　　What　it　would　have　been　without　Albrecht　Durer；　and　Adam　Kraft　the　stone…mason；　and　Peter　Vischer　the　bronze…worker；　and　Viet　Stoss　who　carved　in　wood；　and　Hans　Sachs　the　shoemaker　and　poet…minstrel；　it　is　difficult　to　say。　Their　statues　are　set　up　in　the　streets；　their　works　still　live　in　the　churches　and　city　buildings；pictures；　and　groups　in　stone　and　wood；　and　their　statues；　in　all　sorts　of　carving；　are　reproduced；　big　and　little；　in　all　the　shop…windows；　for　sale。　　So；　literally；　the　city　is　full　of　the　memory　of　them；　and　the　business　of　the　city；　aside　from　its　manufactory　of　endless；　curious　toys；　seems　to　consist　in　reproducing　them　and　their　immortal　works　to　sell　to　strangers。

Other　cities　project　new　things；　and　grow　with　a　modern　impetus：　Nuremberg　lives　in　the　past；　and　traffics　on　its　ancient　reputation。　Of　course；　we　went　to　see　the　houses　where　these　old　worthies　lived；　and　the　works　of　art　they　have　left　behind　them；things　seen　and　described　by　everybody。　　The　stone　carving　about　the　church　portals　and　on　side　buttresses　is　inexpressibly　quaint　and　naive。　　The　subjects　are　sacred；　and　with　the　sacred　is　mingled　the　comic；　here　as　at　Augsburg；　where　over　one　portal　of　the　cathedral；　with　saints　and　angels；　monkeys　climb　and　gibber。　　A　favorite　subject　is　that　of　our　Lord　praying　in　the　Garden；　while　the　apostles；　who　could　not　watch　one　hour；　are　sleeping　in　various　attitudes　of　stony　comicality。　　All　the　stone…cutters　seem　to　have　tried　their　chisels　on　this　group；　and　there　are　dozens　of　them。　　The　wise　and　foolish　virgins　also　stand　at　the　church　doors　in　time…stained　stone；the　one　with　a　perked…up　air　of　conscious　virtue；　and　the　other　with　a　penitent　dejection　that　seems　to　merit　better　treatment。　　Over　the　great　portal　of　St。　Lawrencea　magnificent　structure；　with　lofty　twin　spires　and　glorious　rosewindow　is　carved　〃The　Last　Judgment。〃　Underneath；　the　dead　are　climbing　out　of　their　stone　coffins；　above　sits　the　Judge；　with　the　attending　angels。　　On　the　right　hand　go　away　the　stiff；　prim　saints；　in　flowing　robes；　and　with　palms　and　harps；　up　steps　into　heaven；　through　a　narrow　door　which　St。　Peter　opens　for　them；　while　on　the　left　depart　the　wicked；　with　wry　faces　and　distorted　forms；　down　into　the　stone　flames；　towards　which　the　Devil　is　dragging　them　by　their　stony　hair。

The　interior　of　the　Church　of　St。　Lawrence　is　richer　than　any　other　I　remember；　with　its　magnificent　pillars　of　dark　red　stone；　rising　and　foliating　out　to　form　the　roof；　its　splendid　windows　of　stained　glass；　glowing　with　sacred　story；　a　high　gallery　of　stone　entirely　round　the　choir；　and　beautiful　statuary　on　every　column。　　Here；　too；　is　the　famous　Sacrament　House　of　honest　old　Adam　Kraft；　the　most　exquisite　thing　I　ever　saw　in　stone。　　The　color　is　light　gray；　and　it　rises　beside　one　of　the　dark；　massive　pillars；　sixty…four　feet；　growing　to　a　point；　which　then　strikes　the　arch　of　the　roof；　and　there　curls　up　like　a　vine　to　avoid　it。　　The　base　is　supported　by　the　kneeling　figures　of　Adam　Kraft　and　two　fellow…workmen；　who　labored　on　it　for　four　years。　　Above　is　the　Last　Supper；　Christ　blessing　little　children；　and　other　beautiful　tableaux　in　stone。　　The　Gothic　spire　grows　up　and　around　these；　now　and　then　throwing　out　graceful　tendrils；　like　a　vine；　and　seeming　to　be　rather　a　living　plant　than　inanimate　stone。　　The　faithful　artist　evidently　had　this　feeling　for　it；　for；　as　it　grew　under　his　hands；　he　found　that　it　would　strike　the　roof；　or　he　must　sacrifice　something　of　its　graceful　proportion。　So　his　loving　and　daring　genius　suggested　the　happy　design　of　letting　it　grow　to　its　curving；　graceful　completeness。

He　who　travels　by　a　German　railway　needs　patience　and　a　full　haversack。　　Time　is　of　no　value。　　The　rate　of　speed　of　the　trains　is　so　slow；　that　one　sometimes　has　a　desire　to　get　out　and　walk；　and　the　stoppages　at　the　stations　seem　eternal；　but　then　we　must　remember　that　it　is　a　long　distance　to　the　bottom　of　a　great　mug　of　beer。　　We　left　Lindau　on　one　of　the　usual　trains　at　half…past　five　in　the　morning；　and　reached　Augsburg　at　one　o'clock　in　the　afternoon：　the　distance　cannot　be　more　than　a　hundred　miles。　　That　is　quicker　than　by　diligence；　and　one　has　leisure　to　see　the　country　as　he　jogs　along。　　There　is　nothing　more　sedate　than　a　German　train　in　motion；　nothing　can　stand　so　dead　still　as　a　German　train　at　a　station。　　But　there　are　express　trains。

We　were　on　one　from　Augsburg　to　Nuremberg；　and　I　think　must　have　run　twenty　miles　an　hour。　　The　fare　on　the　express　trains　is　one　fifth　higher　than　on　the　others。　　The　cars　are　all　comfortable；　and　the　officials；　who　wear　a　good　deal　of　uniform；　are　much　more　civil　and　obliging　than　officials　in　a　country　where　they　do　not　wear　uniforms。　So；　not　swiftly；　but　safely　and　in　good…humor；　we　rode　to　the　capital　of　Bavaria。




OUTSIDE　ASPECTS　OF　MUNICH

I　saw　yesterday；　on　the　31st　of　August；　in　the　English　Garden；　dead　leaves　whirling　down　to　the　ground；　a　too　evident　sign　that　the　summer　weather　is　going。　　Indeed；　it　has　been　sour；　chilly　weather　for　a　week　now；　raining　a　little　every　day；　and　with　a　very　autumn　feeling　in　the　air。　　The　nightly　concerts　in　the　beer…gardens　must　have　shivering　listeners；　if　the　bands　do　not；　as　many　of　them　do；　play　within　doors。　　The　line　of　droschke　drivers；　in　front