letters-第34章

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　whilst　directly　　over　against　it；　on　the　further　side　of　the　valley；　rose　the　　perpendicular　side　of　the　rival　hill　which；　to　a　considerable　　extent　intercepting　the　light；　flung　its　black　shadow　over　the　　upper　end　of　the　pass；　involving　it　in　mysterious　darkness。　　　Emerging　from　the　centre　of　this　gloom　with　thundering　sound　dashed　　a　river；　white　with　foam　and　bearing　along　with　it　huge　stones　and　　branches　of　trees；　for　it　was　the　wild　Sil；　probably　at　that　＇time＇　　swollen　by　the　recent　rains；　which　I　now　saw　hurrying　to　the　ocean　　from　its　cradle　in　the　heart　of　the　Asturian　hills。　　Its　fury；　its　　roar；　and　the　savage　grandeur　of　the　surrounding　scenery　which　was　　worthy　of　the　pencil　of　Salvator　recalled　to　my　mind　the　powerful　　lines　of　Stolberg　addressed　to　a　mountain　torrent　…


'The　pine…trees　are　shaken；　they　yield　to　thy　shocks；　And；　crashing；　they　tumble　in　wild　disarray；　The　rocks　fly　before　thee　…　thou　seizest　the　rocks　And　whirlst　them；　like　pebbles；　contemptuous　away。'


Hours　again　passed　away。　　It　was　now　night；　and　we　were　in　the　　midst　of　woodlands；　feeling　our　way；　for　the　darkness　was　so　great　　that　I　could　scarcely　see　the　length　of　a　yard　before　my　horse's　　head。　　The　animal　seemed　uneasy；　and　would　frequently　stop　short；　　prick　up　his　ears；　and　utter　a　low　mournful　whine。　　Flashes　of　　sheet…lightning　frequently　illumed　the　black　sky　and　flung　a　　momentary　glare　over　our　path。　　No　sound　interrupted　the　stillness　　of　the　night　save　the　slow　tramp　of　the　horses'　hoofs；　and　　occasionally　the　croaking　of　frogs　from　some　pool　or　morass。　　I　now　　bethought　me　that　I　was　in　Spain；　the　chosen　land　of　the　two　　fiends；　assassination　and　plunder；　and　how　easily　two　tired　unarmed　　wanderers　might　become　their　victims。　　We　at　last　cleared　the　　woodlands；　and　after　proceeding　a　short　distance　the　horse　gave　a　　joyous　neigh　and　broke　into　a　smart　trot。　　A　barking　of　dogs　　speedily　reached　my　ears；　and　we　seemed　to　be　approaching　some　town　　or　village。　　In　effect　we　were　close　to　Cacabelos；　a　town　about　　five　miles　distant　from　Villafranca。

It　was　now　near　eleven　at　night；　and　I　reflected　that　it　would　be　　far　more　expedient　to　tarry　in　this　place　till　the　morning　than　to　　attempt　at　present　to　reach　Villafranca；　exposing　ourselves　to　all　　the　horrors　of　darkness　in　a　lonely　and　unknown　road。　　My　mind　was　　soon　made　up　on　this　point　…　but　I　determined　without　my　hosts；　for　　at　the　first　POSADA　which　I　attempted　to　enter　I　was　told　that　we　　could　not　be　accommodated；　and　particularly　our　horses；　as　the　　stable　was　full　of　water。　　At　the　second　（there　were　but　two）；　I　　was　answered　from　the　window　by　a　gruff　voice　nearly　in　the　words　　of　Scripture：　　'Trouble　me　not；　the　gate　is　already　locked；　and　my　　servants　are　also　with　me　in　bed；　I　cannot　arise　to　let　you　in。'　　　Indeed　we　had　no　particular　desire　to　enter；　as　it　appeared　a　　wretched　hovel；　though　the　poor　horses　pawed　piteously　against　the　　door；　and　seemed　to　crave　admittance。

We　had　now　no　choice　but　to　resume　our　doleful　way　to　Villafranca；　　which　we　were　told　was　a　short　league　distant；　though　it　proved　a　　league　and　a　half。　　We　however　found　it　no　easy　matter　to　quit　the　　town；　for　we　were　bewildered　amongst　its　labyrinths　and　could　not　　find　the　outlet。　　A　lad　about　eighteen　was；　however；　persuaded　by　　the　promise　of　a　PESETA　to　guide　us；　whereupon　he　led　us　by　many　　turnings　to　a　bridge　which　he　told　us　to　cross　and　to　follow　the　　road；　which　was　that　of　Villafranca；　he　then；　having　received　his　　fee；　hastened　from　us。

We　followed　his　directions；　not；　however；　without　a　suspicion　that　　he　might　be　deceiving　us。　　The　night　had　settled　darker　down　upon　　us；　so　that　it　was　impossible　to　distinguish　any　object；　however　　nigh。　　The　lightning　had　become　more　faint　and　rare。　　We　heard　the　　rustling　of　trees　and　occasionally　the　barking　of　dogs；　which　last　　sound；　however；　soon　ceased；　and　we　were　in　the　midst　of　night　and　　silence。　　My　horse；　either　from　weariness　or　the　badness　of　the　　road；　frequently　stumbled；　whereupon　I　dismounted；　and　leading　him　　by　the　bridle；　soon　left　my　companion　far　in　the　rear。　　I　had　　proceeded　in　this　manner　a　considerable　way　when　a　circumstance　　occurred　of　a　character　well　suited　to　the　time　and　place。

I　was　again　amidst　trees　and　bushes；　when　the　horse；　stopping　　short；　nearly　pulled　me　back。　　I　know　not　how　it　was；　but　fear　　suddenly　came　over　me；　which；　though　in　darkness　and　in　solitude；　I　　had　not　felt　before。　　I　was　about　to　urge　the　animal　forward；　when　　I　heard　a　noise　at　my　right　hand；　and　listened　attentively。　　It　　seemed　to　be　that　of　a　person　or　persons　forcing　their　way　through　　branches　and　brushwood。　　It　soon　ceased；　and　I　heard　feet　on　the　　road。　　It　was　the　short；　staggering　kind　of　tread　of　people　　carrying　a　very　heavy　substance；　nearly　too　much　for　their　　strength；　and　I　thought　I　＇heard＇　the　hurried　breathing　of　men　　over…fatigued。　　There　was　a　short　pause　in　the　middle　of　the　road；　　then　the　stamping　recommenced　until　it　reached　the　other　side；　when　　I　again　heard　a　similar　rustling　amidst　branches；　it　continued　for　　some　time；　and　died　gradually　away。

I　continued　my　road；　musing　on　what　had　just　occurred　and　forming　　conjectures　as　to　the　cause。　　The　lightning　resumed　its　flashing；　　and　I　saw　that　I　was　approaching　tall　black　mountains　…　But　I　will　　omit　further　particulars　of　this　midnight　journey。

'QUIEN　VIVE；'　roared　a　voice　about　an　hour　from　this　time；　for　I　　had　at　last　groped　my　way　to　Villafranca。　　It　proceeded　from　the　　sentry　at　the　suburb；　one　of　those　singular　half　soldiers；　half　　GUERILLAS；　called　Miguelets；　who　are　in　general　employed　by　the　　Spanish　Government　to　clear　the　roads　of　robbers。　　I　gave　the　usual　　answer　'ESPANA；'　and　went　up　to　the　place　where　he　stood。　　After　a　　little　conversation；　I　sat　down　on　a　stone；　awaiting　the　arrival　of　　Antonio；　who　was　long　in　making　his　appearance。　　On　his　arrival　I　　asked　him　if　any　one　had　passed　him　on　the　road；　but　he　replied　　that　he　had　seen　nothing。　　The　night；　or　rather　morning；　was　still　　very　dark；　though　a　small　corner　of　the　moon　was　occasionally　　visible。　　On　our　enquiring　the　way　to　the　gate；　the　Miguelet　　directed　us　down　a　street　to　the　left；　which　we　followed。　　The　　street　was　steep；　we　could　see　no　gate；　and　our　progress　was　soon　　stopped　by　houses　and　wall。　　We　knocked　at　the　gates　of　two　or　　three　of　these　houses　（in　the　upper　stories　of　which　lights　were　　burning）　for　the　purpose　of　being　set　right；　but　we　were　either　　disregarded　or　not　heard。　　A　horrid　squalling　of　cats　from　the　tops　　of　the　houses　and　dark　corners　saluted　our　ears；　and　I　thought　of　　the　night…arrival　of　Don　Quixote　and　his　squire　at　Tobosa；　and　　their　vain　search　amongst　the　deserted　streets　for　the　palace　of　　Dulcinea。　　At　length　we　saw　light　and　heard　voices　in　a　cottage　at　　the　further　side　of　a　kind　of　ditch。　　Leading　the　horses　over；　we　　called　at　the　door；　which　was　opened　by　an　aged　man；　who　appeared　　by　his　dress　to　be　a　baker；　as　indeed　he　proved；　which　accounted　　for　his　being　up　at　so　late　an　hour。　　On　begging　him　to　show　us　the　　way　into　the　town；　he　led　us　up　a　very　narrow　alley　at　the　end　of　　his　cottage；　saying　that　he　would　likewise　conduct　us　to　the　　POSADA。　　The　alley　led　directly　to　what　appeared　to　be　the　market…　place；　at　a　corner　house　of　which　our　guide　stopped　and　knocked。　　　After　a　long　pause　an　upper　window　was　opened；　and　a　female　voice　　demanded　who　we　were。　　The　old　man　replied　that　two　travellers　had　　arrived　who　were　in　need　of　lodging。　　'I　cannot　be　disturbed　at　　this　time　of　night；'　said　the　woman；　'they　will　be　wanting　supper；　　and　there　is　nothing　in　the　house；　they　must　go　elsewhere。'　　She　　was　going　to　shut　the　window；　but　I　cried　that　we　wanted　no　supper；　　but　merely　a　resting…place　for　ourselves　and　horses；　that　we　had　　come　that　day　from　Astorga；　and　were　dying　with　fatigue。　　'Who　is　　that　speaking？'　cried　the　woman。　　'Surely　that　is　the　voice　of　Gil；　　the　German　clock…maker　from　Pontevedra。　　Welcome；　old　companion；　　you　are　come　at　the　right　time；　for　my　own　is　out　of　order。　　I　am　　sorry　I　kept　you　waiting；　but　I　will　admit　you　in　a　moment。'

The　window　was　slammed　to；　presently　light　shone　through　the　　crevices　if　the　door；　a　key　turned　in　the　lock；　and　we　were　　admitted。



LETTER：　19th　August；　1837



To　the　Rev。　A。　Brandram　（ENDORSED：　recd。　Sept。　11；　1837）　SAINT　JAMES　（SANTIAGO）　OF　COMPOSTELLA；　19TH　AUG。　＇1837＇。

REVD。　AND　DEAR　SIR；　…　I　left　Corunna　about　ten　days　since　for　this　　town；　travelling　with　the　courier　or　weekly　post；　who　was　escorted　　by　a　strong　party　of　soldiers　in　consequence　of　the　distracted　　state　of　the　country。　　Nothing　particular　worth　relating　occurred　　during　the　journey；　which　occupied　a　day　and　a　half；　though　the　　distance　is　barely　ten　leagues。　　Santiago；　or　Saint　James；　is；　as　　you　are　aware；　the　capital　of　Galicia；　and　the　residence　of　the　　Metropolitan。　　It　is；　or　was；　the　most　celebrated　resort　for　　pilgrims　in　the　whole　world；　with　the　exception　of　Jerusalem；　as　it　　is　said　to　contain　the　bones　of　Saint　James　the　Elder；　the　Child　of　　the　Thunder；　who　according　to　the　legend　of　the　Roman　Church　first　　preached　the　Gospel　in　Spain。　　The　cathedral；　though　built　at　　various　periods　and　by　no　means　uniform；　is　a　majestic；　venerable　　edifice；　in　every　respect　calculated　to　excite　awe　and　admiration；　　indeed　it　is　almost　impossible　to　walk　its　long　dusky　aisles　and　　hear　the　solemn　music　and　the　noble　chanting　and　inhale　the　incense　　of　the　mighty　censers；　which　are　at　times　swung　so　high　by　　machinery　that　they　smite　the　vaulted　roof；　whilst　gigantic　tapers　　glitter　here　and　there　amongst　the　gloom　from　the　shrine　of　many　a　　saint；　before　which　the　worshippers　are　kneeling；　breathing　forth　　their　prayers　and　petitions　for　help；　love；　and　mercy；　and　　entertain　a　doubt　that　we　are　treading　the　floor　of　a　house　where　　God　delighteth　to　dwell。　　Yet　the　Lord　is　distant　from　that　house。　　　He　heareth　not；　He　seeth　not：　　or；　if　He　hear　and　see；　it　is　with　　anger。　　What　availeth　that　solemn　music；　that　noble　chanting；　that　　incense　of　sweet　savour？　　What　availeth　kneeling　before　that　grand　　altar　of　silver；　surmounted　by　that　figure　with　its　silver　hat　and　　breastplate；　the　emblem　of　one　who；　although　an　Apostle　and　　Confessor；　was　at　best　an　unprofitable　servant？　　What　availeth　　hoping　for　remission　of　sin　by　trusting　in　the　merits　of　him　who　　possessed　none；　or　by　paying　homage　to　others　who　were　born　and　　nurtured　in　sin；　and　who　alone　by　the　exercise　of　a　lively　faith　　granted　from　above　could　hope　to　preserve　themselves　from　the　wrath　　of　the　Almighty？　　Yet　such　acts　and　formalities　constitute　what　is　　termed　religion　at　Compostella；　where；　perhaps；　God　and　His　will　　are　less　known　and　respected　than　at　Pekin　or　amid　the　wildernesses　　where　graze　the　coursers　of　the　Mongol　and　the　Mandchou。　　Perhaps　　there　is　no　part　of　Spain　where　the　Romish　religion　is　so　cherished　　as　throughout　Galicia。　　In　no　part　of　Spain　are　the　precepts　and　　ordinances　of　that　Church；　especially　fasting　and　confession；　so　　strictly　observed；　and　its　ministers　regarded　with　so　much　respect　　and　deference。　　The　natural　conclusion　therefore　would　be　that；　if　　the　religion　of　Rome　be　the　same　as　that　founded　b