letters-第35章

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e　natural　conclusion　therefore　would　be　that；　if　　the　religion　of　Rome　be　the　same　as　that　founded　by　Christ；　the　　example　of　the　Saviour　is　more　closely　followed；　and　the　savage　and　　furious　passions　more　bridled；　bloodshed　and　rapine　less　frequent；　　unchastity　and　intemperance　less　apparent；　and　the　minds　of　the　　people　more　enlightened　and　free　from　the　mists　of　superstition　in　　Galicia　than　in　other　provinces。

What　is　the　fact？　　Almost　every　road　is　teeming　with　banditti；　who　　under　the　name　of　Carlists　plunder　friend　and　foe；　and　to　robbery　　join　cruelty　so　atrociously　horrible　that　indignation　at　the　crime　　is　frequently　lost　in　wonder；　for　the　Galician　robbers　are　seldom　　satisfied　with　booty；　and　unlike　their　brethren　in　other　parts　　generally　mutilate　or　assassinate　those　who　are　so　unfortunate　as　　to　fall　in　their　hands；　prostitution　is　carried　on　to　an　enormous　　extent；　and　although　loathsome　concustant　＇sic＇　diseases　stare　the　　stranger　in　the　face　in　the　street；　in　the　market…place；　in　the　　church；　and　at　the　fountain；　'Drunken　as　a　Galician'　is　a　proverb；　　and　superstitions　forgotten；　abandoned　in　the　rest　of　Spain；　are　　clung　to　here　with　surprising　pertinacity；　the　clergy　exerting　　themselves　to　uphold　them　by　carrying　on　a　very　extensive　sale　in　　charms；　verifying　the　old　saying；　'Witches　are　found　where　friars　　abound。'

An　unhappy　man；　whilst　collecting　vipers　amongst　the　hills；　which　　he　was　in　the　practice　of　selling　to　the　apothecaries；　was　lately　　met　near　Orense　by　some　of　these　monsters。　　Having　plundered　and　　stripped　him；　they　tied　his　hands　behind　him　and　thrust　his　head　　into　the　sack；　which　contained　several　of　these　horrible　reptiles　　alive！　　They　then　fastened　the　sack　at　the　mouth　round　his　neck；　　and　having　feasted　their　ears　for　a　time　with　his　cries；　they　　abandoned　him　to　his　fate。　　The　poor　wretch；　stung　by　the　vipers　in　　the　face　and　eyes；　presently　became　mad　and　ran　through　several　　villages；　till　he　fell　dead。

I　am　now　in　the　heart　of　this　strange　country　and　people。　　It　has　　pleased　the　Lord　to　bless　my　humble　endeavours　more　than　I　had　　reason　to　expect；　since　my　arrival　Santiago　between　thirty　and　　forty　copies　of　the　New　Testament　have　been　despatched。　　The　　bookseller　of　the　place；　Rey　Romero；　a　venerable　man　of　seventy；　　very　wealthy　and　respected；　has　taken　up　the　cause　with　an　　enthusiasm　which　doubtless　emanates　from　on　high；　losing　no　　opportunity　of　recommending　the　work　to　those　who　enter　his　shop；　　which　is　very　splendid　and　commodious。

In　many　instances；　when　the　peasants　of　the　neighbourhood　have　come　　with　the　intention　of　purchasing　some　of　the　foolish　popular　story…　books　of　Spain；　he　has　persuaded　them　in　lieu　thereof　to　carry　home　　Testaments；　assuring　them　that　it　was　not　only　a　better　and　more　　instructive；　but　even　a　far　more　entertaining　book　than　those　they　　came　in　quest　of。　　He　has　taken　a　great　fancy　to　me；　and　comes　to　　visit　me　every　evening；　when　he　accompanies　me　in　my　walks　about　　the　town　and　environs。　　Every　one　who　is　aware　how　rare　it　is　to　　meet　with　friendship　and　cordiality　in　Spain　will　easily　conceive　　my　joy　at　finding　such　a　coadjutor；　and　I　have　no　doubt　that　when　I　　am　absent　he　will　exert　himself　as　much；　and　I　hope　as　effectually；　　as　now　that　I　am　present。

I　leave　Saint　James　to…morrow　for　Pontevedra　and　Vigo；　carrying　　with　me　some　Testaments　which　I　hope　to　dispose　of；　notwithstanding　　there　are　no　booksellers　in　those　places。　　I　shall　then　return　to　　Corunna；　either　by　Compostella　or　by　some　other　route。　　I　trust　the　　Lord　will　preserve　me　in　this　journey　as　He　has　done　in　others。　　　From　Corunna　I　propose　to　travel　through　the　mountains　to　Oviedo　in　　the　Asturias；　provided　that　town　be　not　speedily　in　the　hands　of　　the　factious。　　By　the　time　these　lines　reach　you；　you　will　　doubtless　have　heard　of　the　irruption　of　a　part　of　the　Pretender's　　hordes　into　Old　Castile；　they　have　carried　everything　before　them；　　and　have　sacked　and　taken　possession　of　the　city　of　Segovia；　　distant　only　one　day's　march　from　Madrid。　　From　the　aspect　of　　things　I　should　say　that　the　miseries　of　this　land；　far　from　having　　reached　their　climax；　are　but　commencing。　　Yet　let　no　one　mourn　for　　Egypt：　　she　is　but　paying　the　price　of　her　sorceries　and　　superstitions。

（UNSIGNED。）

P。S。　…　At　San　Sebastian　I　shall　need　Davison's　Turkish　Grammar；　　which　you　have　in　the　Library。　　It　will　be　of　assistance　to　me　in　　editing　the　Basque　St。　Luke；　the　two　languages　are　surprisingly　　connected。



LETTER：　15th　September；　1837



To　the　Rev。　A。　Brandram　（ENDORSED：　recd。　Oct。　9；　1837）　CORUNNA；　SEP。　15；　1837。

REVD。　AND　DEAR　SIR；　…　About　ten　days　have　elapsed　since　my　return　　to　Corunna。　　I　stated　in　my　last　letter；　from　Compostella；　that　it　　was　my　intention　to　visit　Pontevedra　and　Vigo；　which　I　carried　into　　effect。　　In　the　first　of　these　places　I　left；　as　I　passed　through；　　eight　copies　of　the　New　Testament　in　the　hands　of　Senor　Garcia；　the　　public　notary；　three　days　subsequent；　on　my　return；　I　found　that　he　　had　disposed　of　them；　and　I　have　since　sent　him　a　fresh　supply。　　He　　is　a　very　zealous　and　exceeding　intelligent　person；　and　I　have　no　　doubt　will　prove　a　highly　useful　agent　in　Pontevedra　and　its　　beautiful　neighbourhood；　which　is　the　garden　of　Galicia。　　In　Vigo　I　　disposed　of　four　Testaments；　but　was　not　so　fortunate　as　to　find　　any　person　willing　or　calculated　to　undertake　the　charge　accepted　　by　my　friend　in　the　former　town。

Having　reached　Padron；　in　my　journey　back；　I　sent　my　servant　and　　horses　forward　to　Saint　James；　and　guided　by　a　peasant；　proceeded　　across　the　country　to　Cape　Finisterre；　on　whose　rocky　sides　I　so　　narrowly　escaped　being　shipwrecked　last　year。　　The　distance　was　　fifteen　leagues；　and　the　route　lay　over　wild　mountains　and　valleys；　　where　we　suffered　much　from　fatigue　and　the　heat　of　the　sun。　　　Arrived　at　Finisterre　we　were　seized　as　Carlist　spies　by　the　　fishermen　of　the　place；　who　determined　at　first　on　shooting　us；　but　　at　last　contented　themselves　with　conducting　us　prisoners　to　　Corcubion；　where　the　ALCALDE　of　the　district；　after　having　examined　　me　and　perused　my　passport；　ordered　me　to　be　set　at　liberty；　and　　treated　me　with　all　manner　of　civility。　　By　this　journey　I　　accomplished　what　has　long　been　one　of　the　ardent　wishes　of　my　　heart。　　I　have　carried　the　Gospel　to　the　extreme　point　of　the　old　　world；　having　left　a　Testament　in　the　hands　of　Antonio　de　Trava；　an　　ancient　mariner　of　Finisterre；　who　took　my　part　in　a　very　friendly　　manner；　and　probably　saved　me　from　experiencing　much　violence　at　　the　hands　of　his　companions。　　Finisterre　is　a　place　of　wonders；　　which　I　hope　at　some　future　time　to　have　the　pleasure　of　narrating；　　but　at　present　I　must　speak　of　other　matters。　　About　one　hundred　　Testaments　have　been　disposed　of　at　Saint　James　of　Compostella；　and　　there　is　at　present　a　steady　regular　demand　for　them　there　which　　inspires　my　heart　with　gratitude　to　the　Almighty。　　Shortly　previous　　to　my　journey　to　Saint　James；　I　despatched　fifty　copies　to　Lugo；　　where　the　Lord　vouchsafed　me　good　success　on　a　former　occasion；　　this　second　supply　being　almost　exhausted；　I　have　sent　more。　　Only　　fifty…eight　copies　have　hitherto　been　sold　at　Corunna；　for　its　　inhabitants　are　far　too　much　engrossed　by　party　politics　to　　entertain　much　relish　for　heavenly　manna。　　I　pray　every　night　and　　morning　that　their　eyes　may　be　opened　to　their　eternal　welfare。

Having　now　arranged　matters　in　Galicia；　as　well　as　circumstances　　will　permit；　I　am　about　to　quit　this　province；　directing　my　course　　to　Oviedo　in　the　Asturias。　　The　way　is　long；　and　is　infested　by　　robbers　and　factious；　yet　I　go　forth　without　much　fear；　hoping　that　　the　Lord　will　prove　my　shield　and　guard　as　on　other　occasions。　　　From　Oviedo　I　proceed　to　Santander；　and　from　thence　to　the　Basque　　provinces。　　Santander；　being　a　large　and　flourishing　town；　affords　　me　a　tolerable　prospect　of　success；　and　I　have　accordingly　directed　　my　agent　at　Madrid　to　despatch　thither　forthwith　150　Testaments。　　　The　intermediate　country　is；　however；　in　a　most　distracted　state；　a　　great　part　of　it　being　in　the　hands　of　the　Carlists；　it　is　　therefore　probable　that　the　books　may　never　reach　me；　in　which　　event　I　shall　have　to　apply　to　England。　　To　the　Basque　provinces　I　　hope　to　carry　Saint　Luke　in　a　Biscayan　version；　which　I　shall　print　　at　Santander　should　an　opportunity　present　itself。

No　time　must　be　lost　in　accomplishing　all　that　is　possible　in　　Spain；　which　in　the　course　of　a　few　months　may　be　entirely　in　the　　hands　of　the　Pretender。　　I　received　the　lines　which　you　directed　to　　the　care　of　the　British　consul　at　Corunna；　and　was　thankful　for　　them。　　Pray　present　my　kind　remembrances　to　Mrs。　Brandram　and　　family；　to　Mr。　Jowett；　and　Mr。　and　Mrs。　Browne。

I　remain；　Revd。　and　dear　Sir；　most　truly　yours；

G。　BORROW。



LETTER：　29th　September；　1837



To　the　Rev。　A。　Brandram　（ENDORSED：　recd。　Oct。　17；　1837）　OVIEDO；　ASTURIAS；　29　SEPTR。　1837。

REVD。　AND　DEAR　SIR；　…　A　day　or　two　after　the　date　of　my　last　letter　　I　quitted　Corunna　and　passed　over　the　bay　to　Ferrol；　where　I　left　　twenty　Testaments　in　the　hands　of　a　person　who　has　just　established　　a　small　book…shop　in　that　place。　　My　servant　Antonio　went　round　by　　land　with　my　horse；　the　only　one　which　I　now　possess；　I　having　　disposed　（1）　of　the　largest　of　the　two　at　Corunna；　as　I　thought　he　　was　unable　to　support　the　fatigue　of　a　journey　to　Oviedo。　　At　　Ferrol　I　hired　a　horse　and　guide　as　far　as　Ribadeo；　a　distance　of　　twenty　leagues；　and　somewhat　less　than　half　the　way　to　Oviedo。　　　This　journey　was　a　terrible　one；　during　the　greatest　part　of　it　we　　had　to　toil　up　and　down　mountain　gorges　and　ravines；　to　force　our　　way　through　bushes　and　thickets；　and　to　wade　rivulets　and　torrents　　swollen　by　the　rain；　which　descended　continually；　our　guide　proved　　perfectly　ignorant　of　the　country；　and　we　had　to　bribe　various　　peasants　to　accompany　us；　though　we　incurred　great　risk　by　so　doing　　of　being　conducted　to　some　den　of　thieves；　and　stripped　and　　murdered。　　At　Ribadeo　we　procured　a　fresh　horse　and　guide；　and　　continued　our　way　to　Oviedo；　encountering　still　greater　　difficulties；　the　ground　being　still　more　rugged　and　broken　than　　that　which　we　had　previously　passed　over。　　My　own　horse　rolled　down　　a　precipice；　and　was　much　maimed；　whilst　that　of　the　guide　was　so　　worn　out　by　the　time　he　reached　Gijon；　four　leagues　from　Oviedo；　　that　he　foundered。　　As　for　Antonio　and　myself；　we　arrived　　barefooted　and　bleeding；　for　I　need　scarcely　say　that　during　all　　this　journey；　which　amounted　at　least　to　130　miles；　we　went　on　　foot；　the　poor　horses　being　scarcely　able　to　carry　our　books　and　　baggage。

I　am　now　by　the　blessing　of　the　Almighty　in　the　city　of　Oviedo；　the　　capital　of　the　Asturias；　although　at　an　unpropitious　season；　for　　the　bray　of　war　is　at　the　gate；　and　there　is　the　cry　of　the　　captains　and　the　shouting。　　Castile　is　at　the　present　time　in　the　　hands　of　the　Carlists；　who　have　captured　and　plundered　Valladolid；　　in　much　the　same　manner　as　they　did　Segovia。　　They　are　every　day　　expected　to　march　on　this　place；　in　which　case　they　will　probably　　experience　an　obstinate　resistance；　very　excellent　redoubts　having　　been　erected；　and　several　of　the　convents　stron