the compleat angler(垂钓大全)-第29章
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within the sight of it； the Eel will bite instantly； and as certainly gorge it；
and you need not doubt to have him if you pull him not out of the hole too
quickly； but pull him out by degrees； for he； lying folded double in his
hole； will； with the help of his tail； break all； unless you give him time to
be wearied with pulling； and so get him out by degrees； not pulling too
hard。
And to commute for your patient hearing this long direction； I shall
next tell you； How to make this Eel a most excellent dish of meat。
First； wash him in water and salt； then pull off his skin below his vent
or navel； and not much further： having done that； take out his guts as clean
as you can； but wash him not： then give him three or four scotches with a
knife； and then put into his belly and those scotches； sweet herbs； an
anchovy； and a little nutmeg grated or cut very small； and your herbs and
anchovies must also be cut very small； and mixt with good butter and salt：
having done this； then pull his skin over him； all but his head； which you
are to cut off； to the end you may tie his skin about that part where his
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head grew； and it must be so tied as to keep all his moisture within his skin：
and having done this； tie him with tape or packthread to a spit； and roast
him leisurely； and baste him with water and salt till his skin breaks； and
then with butter； and having roasted him enough； let what was put into his
belly； and what he drips； be his sauce。 S。 F。
When I go to dress an Eel thus； I wish he were as long and as big as
that which was caught in Peterborough river； in the year 1667； which was
a yard and three quarters long。 If you will not believe me； then go and see
at one of the coffee…houses in King Street in Westminster。
But now let me tell you； that though the Eel； thus drest； be not only
excellent good； but more harmless than any other way； yet it is certain that
physicians account the Eel dangerous meat； I will advise you therefore； as
Solomon says of honey； 〃 Hast thou found it； eat no more than is sufficient；
lest thou surfeit； for it is not good to eat much honey 〃。 And let me add this；
that the uncharitable Italian bids us 〃 give Eels and no wine to our enemies
〃。
And I will beg a little more of your attention； to tell you； that
Aldrovandus； and divers physicians； commend the Eel very much for
medicine； though not for meat。 But let me tell you one observation； that
the Eel is never out of season； as Trouts； and most other fish； are at set
times； at least； most Eels are not。
I might here speak of many other fish； whose shape and nature are
much like the Eel； and frequent both the sea and fresh rivers； as； namely；
the Lamprel； the Lamprey； and the Lamperne： as also of the mighty
Conger； taken often in Severn； about Gloucester： and might also tell in
what high esteem many of them are for the curiosity of their taste。 But
these are not so proper to be talked of by me； because they make us
anglers no sport； therefore I will let them alone； as the Jews do； to whom
they are forbidden by their law。
And； scholar； there is also a FLOUNDER； a sea…fish which will
wander very far into fresh rivers； and there lose himself and dwell： and
thrive to a hand's breadth； and almost twice so long： a fish without scales；
and most excellent meat： and a fish that affords much sport to the angler；
with any small worm； but especially a little bluish worm； gotten out of
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marsh…ground； or meadows； which should be well scoured。 But this；
though it be most excellent meat； yet it wants scales； and is； as I told you；
therefore an abomination to the Jews。
But； scholar； there is a fish that they in Lancashire boast very much of；
called a CHAR； taken there； and I think there only； in a mere called
Winander Mere； a mere； says Camden； that is the largest in this nation；
being ten miles in length； and some say as smooth in the bottom as if it
were paved with polished marble。 This fish never exceeds fifteen or
sixteen inches in length； and is spotted like a Trout： and has scarce a bone；
but on the back。 But this； though I do not know whether it make the angler
sport； yet I would have you take notice of it； because it is a rarity； and of
so high esteem with persons of great note。
Nor would I have you ignorant of a rare fish called a GUINIAD； of
which I shall tell you what Camden and others speak。 The river Dee；
which runs by Chester； springs in Merionethshire； and； as it runs toward
Chester； it runs through Pemble Mere； which is a large water： and it is
observed； that though the river Dee abounds with Salmon； and Pemble
mere with the （Guiniad； yet there is never any Salmon caught in the mere；
nor a Guiniad in the river。 And now my next observation shall be of the
Barbel。
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The fourth day…continued
Of the Barbel
Chapter XIV
Piscator； Venator； Milk…woman
Piscator。 The Barbel is so called； says Gesner； by reason of his barb or
wattles at his mouth； which are under his nose or chaps。 He is one of those
leather…mouthed fishes that I told you of； that does very seldom break his
hold if he be once hooked： but he is so strong； that he will often break both
rod and line； if he proves to be a big one。
But the Barbel； though he be of a fine shape； and looks big； yet he is
not accounted the best fish to eat； neither for his wholesomeness nor his
taste； but the male is reputed much better than the female； whose spawn is
very hurtful； as I will presently declare to you。
They flock together like sheep； and are at the worst in April； about
which time they spawn； but quickly grow to be in season。 He is able to
live in the strongest swifts of the water： and； in summer； they love the
shallowest and sharpest streams： and love to lurk under weeds； and to feed
on gravel； against a rising ground； and will root and dig in the sands with
his nose like a hog； and there nests himself： yet sometimes he retires to
deep and swift bridges； or flood…gates； or weir； where he will nest himself
amongst piles； or in hollow places； and take such hold of moss or weeds；
that be the water never so swift； it is not able to force him from the place
that he contends for。 This is his constant custom in summer； when he and
most living creatures sport themselves in the sun： but at the approach of
winter； then he forsakes the swift streams and shallow waters； and； by
degrees； retires to those parts of the river that are quiet and deeper； in
which places； and I think about that time he spawns； and； as I have
formerly told you； with the help of the melter； hides his spawn or eggs in
holes； which they both dig in the gravel； and then they mutually labour to
cover it with the same sand； to prevent it from being devoured by other
fish。
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There be such store of this fish in the river Danube； that Rondeletius
says they may； in some places of it； and in some months of the year； be
taken； by those who dwell near to the river； with their hands； eight or ten
load at a time。 He says； they begin to be good in May； and that they cease
to be so in August： but it is found to be otherwise in this nation。 But thus
far we agree with him； that the spawn of a Barbel； if it be not poison； as he
says； yet that it is dangerous meat； and especially in the month of May；
which is so certain； that Gesner and Gasius declare it had an ill effect upon
them； even to the endangering of their lives。
The fish is of a fine cast and handsome shape； with small scales； which
are placed after a most exact and curious manner； and； as I told you； may
be rather said not to be ill； than to be good meat； The Chub and he have； I
think； both lost part of their credit by ill cookery； they being reputed the
worst； or coarsest； of fresh…water fish。 But the Barbel affords an angler
choice sport； being a lusty and a cunning fish； so lusty and cunning as to
endanger the breaking of the angler's line； by running his head forcibly
towards any covert； or hole； or bank； and then striking at the line； to break
it off； with his tail； as is observed by Plutarch； in his book De Industria
Animalium： and also so cunning； to nibble and suck off your worm close
to the hook； and yet avoid the letting the hook come into his mouth。
The Barbel is also curious for his baits； that is to say； that they be clean
and sweet； that is to say； to have your worms well scoured； and not kept in
sour and musty moss； for he is a curious feeder： but at a well…scoured lob…
worm he will bite as boldly as at any bait； and specially if； the night or two
before you fish for him； you shall bait the places where you intend to fish
for him； with big worms cut into pieces。 And note； that none did ever over…
bait the place； nor fish too early or too late for a Barbel。 And the Barbel
will bite also at generals； which； not being too much scoured； but green；
are a choice bait for him： and so is cheese； which is not to be too hard； but
kept a day or two in a wet linen cloth； to make it tough； with this you may
also bait the water a day or two before you fish for the Barbel； and be
much the likelier to catch store； and if the cheese were laid in clarified
honey a short time before； as namely； an hour or two； you were still the
likelier to catch fish。 Some have directed to cut the cheese into thin pieces；
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