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has his own car�察�specially arranged so that his               uninterrupted labor shall 

have as little effect as possible on his dangerously frail body。                Radek and 

I traveled in one of the special cars of the Central Executive Committee�察�of 

which he is a member。 

       The car seemed very clean�察�but�察�as an additional precaution�察�we began 

by    rubbing     turpentine    on   our   necks    and    wrists   and    angles   for   the 

discouragement   of   lice�察  �now   generally   known   as   ;Semashki;   from   the 

name      of   Semashko�察     �the   Commissar        of  Public    Health�察    �who    wages 

unceasing      war   for   their  destruction     as  the  carriers   of   typhus    germs。I 

rubbed   the   turpentine   so   energetically   into   my   neck   that   it   burnt   like   a 

collar of fire�察�and for a long time I was unable to get to sleep。 

       In   the   morning   Radek�察  �the   two   conductors   who   had   charge   of   the 

wagons and I sat down together to breakfast and had a very merry meal�察�

they providing cheese and bread and I a tin of corned beef providently sent 

out from home by the Manchester Guardian。                  We cooked up some coffee 

on a little spirit stove�察�which�察�in a neat basket together with plates�察�knives�察�



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forks�察�etc。 ��now almost unobtainable in Russia�� had been a parting present 

from the German Spartacists to Radek when he was released from prison 

in Berlin and allowed to leave Germany。 

       The morning was bright and clear�察�and we had an excellent view of 

Jaroslavl when we drove from the station to the town�察�which is a mile or 

so off the line of the railway。         The sun poured down on the white snow�察�

on the barges still frozen into the Volga River�察�and on the gilt and painted 

domes      and   cupolas     of  the   town。    Many      of   the  buildings     had   been 

destroyed      during   the   rising  artificially   provoked     in  July�察 �19l8�察  �and   its 

subsequent       suppression。       More      damage      was    done     then   than    was 

necessary�察  �because   the   town   was   recaptured   by   troops   which   had   been 

deserted   by   most   of   their   officers�察  �and   therefore   hammered   away   with 

artillery without any very definite plan of attack。             The more important of 

the   damaged   buildings�察  �such   as   the   waterworks   and   the   power   station�察�

have   been   repaired�察  �the   tramway   was   working�察  �and�察  �after   Moscow�察  �the 

town   seemed   clean�察  �but   plenty   of   ruins   remained   as   memorials   of   that 

wanton and unjustifiable piece of folly which�察�it was supposed�察�would be 

the signal for a general rising。 

       We drove to the Hotel Bristol�察�now the headquarters of the Jaroslavl 

Executive   Committee�察  �where   Rostopchin�察  �the   president�察  �discussed   with 

Larin and Radek the programme arranged for the conference。                     It was then 

proposed that we should have something to eat�察�when a very curious state 

of    affairs   ��and   one    extremely     Russian��     was    revealed。      Rostopchin 

admitted      that   the   commissariat      arrangements       of   the  Soviet    and    its 

Executive Committee were very bad。                But in the center of the town there 

is a nunnery which was very badly damaged during the bombardment and 

is   now    used   as   a  sort  of  prison    or  concentration      camp    for  a   Labor 

Regiment。       Peasants from  the  surrounding   country  who   have  refused to 

give up their proper contribution of corn�察�or leave otherwise disobeyed the 

laws�察�are�察�for punishment�察�lodged here�察�and made to expiate their sins by 

work。     It so happens�察�Rostopchin explained�察�that the officer in charge of 

the prison feeding arrangements is a very energetic fellow�察�who had served 

in   the   old   army   in   a   similar   capacity�察  �and   the   meals   served   out   to   the 

prisoners      are   so   much     better    than   those    produced      in   the   Soviet 



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headquarters�察     �that   the  members      of  the   Executive     Committee       make     a 

practice of walking over to the prison to dine。               They invited us to do the 

same。     Larin   did   not   feel   up   to   the   walk�察  �so   he   remained   in   the   Soviet 

House to eat an inferior meal�察�while Radek                 and I�察�with Rostopchin and 

three other members of the local committee walked round to the  prison。 

The bell tower of the old nunnery had been half shot away by artillery�察�and 

is in such a precarious condition that it is proposed to pull it down。                   But 

on   passing   under   it   we   came   into   a   wide   courtyard   surrounded   by   two´ 

story whitewashed buildings that seemed scarcely to have suffered at all。 

We   found   the   refectory   in   one   of   these   buildings。   It   was   astonishingly 

clean。 There were wooden tables�察�of course without cloths�察�and each man 

had    a  wooden      spoon    and   a  hunk    of   bread。    A   great   bowl    of   really 

excellent soup was put down in the middle of table�察�and we fell to hungrily 

enough。      I   made   more   mess   on   the   table   than   any   one   else�察  �because   it 

requires     considerable     practice    to  convey     almost    boiling    soup    from   a 

distant bowl to one's mouth without spilling it in a shallow wooden spoon 

four inches in diameter�察�and�察�having got it to one's mouth�察�to get any of it 

in without slopping over on either side。             The regular diners there seemed 

to find no difficulty in it at all。 One of the prisoners who mopped up after 

my disasters said I had better join them for a week�察�when I should find it 

quite easy。      The soup bowl was followed by a fry of potatoes�察�quantities 

of   which   are   grown   in   the   district。  For   dealing   with   these   I   found   the 

wooden spoon quite efficient。            After that we had glasses of some sort of 

substitute for tea。 

       The Conference was held in the town theatre。                  There was a hint of 

comedy in the fact that the orchestra was playing the prelude to some very 

cheerful     opera    before    the   curtain   rang    up。    Radek      characteristically 

remarked       that   such    music    should     be   followed     by   something      more 

sensational   than   a   conference�察  �proposed   to   me   that   we   should   form   a 

tableau   to   illustrate   the   new   peaceful   policy   of   England   with   regard   to 

Russia。     As it was a party conference�察�I had really no right to be there�察�but 

Radek had arranged with Rostopchin that I 

     should come in with himself�察�and be allowed to sit in the wings at the 

side    of  the   stage。   On     the  stage   were    Rostopchin�察     �Radek�察   �Larin   and 



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various   members       of  the  Communist       Party   Committee      in  the    district。 

Everything was ready�察�but the orchestra went on with its jig music on the 

other side of the curtain。       A message was sent to them。 The music stopped 

with     a  jerk。    The     curtain   rose�察  �disclosing     a  crowded      auditorium。 

Everbody      stood    up�察 �both   on   the  stage   and   in   the  theater�察  �and   sang�察�

accompanied by the orchestra�察�first the ;Internationale; and then the song 

for those who had died for the revolution。             Then except for two or three 

politically    minded     musicians     �察 �the  orchestra    vanished     away    and   the 

Conference began。 

       Unlike many of the meetings and conferences at which I have been 

present    in  Russia�察   �this   Jaroslavl  Conference     seemed     to  me   to  include 

practically none but men and women who either were or had been actual 

manual workers。 I looked over row after row of faces in the theatre�察�and 

could only find two faces which I thought might be Jewish�察�and none that 

obviously      belonged to the ;intelligentsia。;         I found on inquiry that only 

three   of   the   Communists   present�察  �excluding   Radek   and   Larin�察  �were   old 

exiled   and   imprisoned   revolutionaries   of   the   educated   class。     Of   these�察�

two were on the platform。          All the rest were from the working class。 The 

great majority of them�察�of course�察�had joined the Communists in 1917�察�but 

a dozen or so had been in the party as long as the first Russian revolution 

of 1905。 

       Radek�察  �who   was   tremendously   cheered   ��his   long   imprisonment   in 

Germany�察 �during   which   time   few   in   Russia   thought   that   they  would   see 

him alive again�察�has made him something of a popular hero�� made a long�察�

interesting   and   pugnacious   speech   setting   out   the   grounds   on   which   the 

Central Committee base their ideas about Industrial Conscription。                   These 

ideas are embodied in the series of theses issued by the Central Committee 

in January ��see p。 134��。        Larin�察�who was very tired after the journey and 

patently conscious that Radek was a formidable opponent�察�made a speech 

setting    out  his  reasons    for  differing   with   the  Central    Committee�察     �and 

proposed an ingenious resolution�察�which�察�while expressing approval of the 

general      position    of   the    Committee�察     �included     four    supplementary 

modifications 

     which�察�as a matter of fact�察�nullified that position altogether。 It was then 



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about ten at night�察�and the Conference adjourned。                We drove round to the 

prison in sledges�察�and by way of supper had some more soup and potatoes�察�

and so back to the railway station to sleep in the cars。 

       Next day the Conference opened about noon�察�when there was a long 

discussion of the points at issue。           Workman after workman came to the 

platform and gave his view。           Some of the speeches were a little naive�察�as 

when one soldier said that Comrades Lenin and Trotsky had often before 

pointed out difficult roads�察�and that whenever they had been followed they 

had shown the way to victory�察�and that therefore�察�though there was much 

in   the   Central   Committee's   theses   that   was   hard   to   digest�察  �he   was   for 

giving   them   complete   support�察  �confident   that�察  �as   Comrades   Lenin   and 

Trotsky were in favor of them�察�they were lik

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