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produced�察�and the wondrous pictures which are to be found there�察�

now I wish to see Italy�察�or rather Rome�察�the great city�察�for I am 

told that in a certain room there is contained the grand miracle of 

art。'



'And what do you call it��'



'The Transfiguration�察�painted by one Rafael�察�and it is said to be 

the greatest work of the greatest painter whom the world has ever 

known。  I suppose it is because everybody says so�察�that I have such 

a strange desire to see it。  I have already made myself well 

acquainted with its locality�察�and think that I could almost find my 

way to it blindfold。  When I have crossed the Tiber�察�which�察�as you 

are aware�察�runs through Rome�察�I must presently turn to the right�察�

up a rather shabby street�察�which communicates with a large square�察�

the farther end of which is entirely occupied by the front of an 

immense church�察�with a dome which ascends almost to the clouds�察�and 

this church they call St。 Peter's。'



'Ay�察�ay��' said I�察�'I have read about that in Keysler's Travels。'



'Before the church�察�in the square�察�are two fountains�察�one on either 

side�察�casting up water in showers�察�between them�察�in the midst�察�is 

an obelisk�察�brought from Egypt�察�and covered with mysterious 

writing�察�on your right rises an edifice�察�not beautiful nor grand�察�

but huge and bulky�察�where lives a strange kind of priest whom men 

call the Pope�察�a very horrible old individual�察�who would fain keep 

Christ in leading strings�察�calls the Virgin Mary the Queen of 

Heaven�察�and himself God's Lieutenant´General upon earth。'



'Ay�察�ay��' said I�察�'I have read of him in Foxe's BOOK OF MARTYRS。'



'Well�察�I do not go straight forward up the flight of steps 

conducting into the church�察�but I turn to the right�察�and�察�passing 

under the piazza�察�find myself in a court of the huge bulky house�察�

and then ascend various staircases�察�and pass along various 

corridors and galleries�察�all of which I could describe to you�察�

though I have never seen them�察�at last a door is unlocked�察�and we 

enter a room rather high�察�but not particularly large�察�communicating 

with another room�察�into which�察�however�察�I do not go�察�though there 

are noble things in that second room ´ immortal things�察�by immortal 

artists�察�amongst others�察�a grand piece of Correggio�察�I do not enter 

it�察�for the grand picture of the world is not there�察�but I stand 

still immediately on entering the first room�察�and I look straight 

before me�察�neither to the right nor left�察�though there are noble 

things both on the right and left�察�for immediately before me at the 

farther end�察�hanging against the wall�察�is a picture which arrests 

me�察�and I can see nothing else�察�for that picture at the farther end 

hanging against the wall is the picture of the world。 。 。 。'



Yes�察�go thy way�察�young enthusiast�察�and�察�whether to London town or 

to old Rome�察�may success attend thee�察�yet strange fears assail me 

and misgivings on thy account。  Thou canst not rest�察�thou say'st�察�

till thou hast seen the picture in the chamber at old Rome hanging 

over against the wall�察�ay�察�and thus thou dust exemplify thy 

weakness ´ thy strength too�察�it may be ´ for the one idea�察�

fantastic yet lovely�察�which now possesses thee�察�could only have 

originated in a genial and fervent brain。  Well�察�go�察�if thou must 

go�察�yet it perhaps were better for thee to bide in thy native land�察�

and there�察�with fear and trembling�察�with groanings�察�with straining 

eyeballs�察�toil�察�drudge�察�slave�察�till thou hast made excellence thine 

own�察�thou wilt scarcely acquire it by staring at the picture over 

against the door in the high chamber of old Rome。  Seekest thou 

inspiration�拭�thou needest it not�察�thou hast it already�察�and it was 

never yet found by crossing the sea。  What hast thou to do with old 

Rome�察�and thou an Englishman�拭 �'Did thy blood never glow at the 

mention of thy native land��' as an artist merely�拭 �Yes�察�I trow�察�and 

with reason�察�for thy native land need not grudge old Rome her 

'pictures of the world'�察�she has pictures of her own�察�'pictures of 

England'�察�and is it a new thing to toss up caps and shout ´ England 

against the world�拭 �Yes�察�against the world in all�察�in all�察�in 

science and in arms�察�in minstrel strain�察�and not less in the art 

'which enables the hand to deceive the intoxicated soul by means of 

pictures。'  Seek'st models�拭�to Gainsborough and Hogarth turn�察�not 

names of the world�察�maybe�察�but English names ´ and England against 

the world�  �A living master�拭�why�察�there he comes� �thou hast had him 

long�察�he has long guided thy young hand towards the excellence 

which is yet far from thee�察�but which thou canst attain if thou 

shouldst persist and wrestle�察�even as he has done�察�'midst gloom and 

despondency ´ ay�察�and even contempt�察�he who now comes up the 

creaking stair to thy little studio in the second floor to inspect 

thy last effort before thou departest�察�the little stout man whose 

face is very dark�察�and whose eye is vivacious�察�that man has 

attained excellence�察�destined some day to be acknowledged�察�though 

not till he is cold�察�and his mortal part returned to its kindred 

clay。  He has painted�察�not pictures of the world�察�but English 

pictures�察�such as Gainsborough himself might have done�察�beautiful 

rural pieces�察�with trees which might well tempt the wild birds to 

perch upon them�察�thou needest not run to Rome�察�brother�察�where lives 

the old Mariolater�察�after pictures of the world�察�whilst at home 

there are pictures of England�察�nor needest thou even go to London�察�

the big city�察�in search of a master�察�for thou hast one at home in 

the old East Anglian town who can instruct thee whilst thou needest 

instruction�此 �better stay at home�察�brother�察�at least for a season�察�

and toil and strive 'midst groanings and despondency till thou hast 

attained excellence even as he has done ´ the little dark man with 

the brown coat and the top´boots�察�whose name will one day be 

considered the chief ornament of the old town�察�and whose works will 

at no distant period rank amongst the proudest pictures of England 

´ and England against the world�  � thy master�察�my brother�察�thy�察�at 

present�察�all too little considered master ´ Crome。







CHAPTER XXII







Desire for novelty ´ Lives of the lawless ´ Countenances ´ Old 

yeoman and dame ´ We live near the sea ´ Uncouth´looking volume ´ 

The other condition ´ Draoitheac ´ A dilemma ´ The Antinomian ´ 

Lodowick Muggleton ´ Almost blind ´ Anders Vedel。




BUT to proceed with my own story�此 �I now ceased all at once to take 

much pleasure in the pursuits which formerly interested me�察�I 

yawned over Ab Gwilym�察�even as I now in my mind's eye perceive the 

reader yawning over the present pages。  What was the cause of this�拭�

Constitutional lassitude�察�or a desire for novelty�拭 �Both it is 

probable had some influence in the matter�察�but I rather think that 

the latter feeling was predominant。  The parting words of my 

brother had sunk into my mind。  He had talked of travelling in 

strange regions and seeing strange and wonderful objects�察�and my 

imagination fell to work�察�and drew pictures of adventures wild and 

fantastic�察�and I thought what a fine thing it must be to travel�察�

and I wished that my father would give me his blessing�察�and the 

same sum that he had given my brother�察�and bid me go forth into the 

world�察�always forgetting that I had neither talents nor energies at 

this period which would enable me to make any successful figure on 

its stage。



And then I again sought up the book which had so captivated me in 

my infancy�察�and I read it through�察�and I sought up others of a 

similar character�察�and in seeking for them I met books also of 

adventure�察�but by no means of a harmless description�察�lives of 

wicked and lawless men�察�Murray and Latroon ´ books of singular 

power�察�but of coarse and prurient imagination ´ books at one time 

highly in vogue�察�now deservedly forgotten�察�and most difficult to be 

found。



And when I had gone through these books�察�what was my state of mind�拭 �

I had derived entertainment from their perusal�察�but they left me 

more listless and unsettled than before�察�and  really knew not what 

to do to pass my time。  My philological studies had become 

distasteful�察�and I had never taken any pleasure in the duties of my 

profession。  I sat behind my desk in a state of torpor�察�my mind 

almost as blank as the paper before me�察�on which I rarely traced a 

line。  It was always a relief to hear the bell ring�察�as it afforded 

me an opportunity of doing something which I was yet capable of 

doing�察�to rise and open the door and stare in the countenances of 

the visitors。  All of a sudden I fell to studying countenances�察�and 

soon flattered myself that I had made considerable progress in the 

science。



'There is no faith in countenances��' said some Roman of old�察�'trust 

anything but a person's countenance。'  'Not trust a man's 

countenance��' say some moderns�察�'why�察�it is the only thing in many 

people that we can trust�察�on which account they keep it most 

assiduously out of the way。  Trust not a man's words if you please�察�

or you may come to very erroneous conclusions�察�but at all times 

place implicit confidence in a man's countenance�察�in which there is 

no deceit�察�and of necessity there can be none。  If people would but 

look each other more in the face�察�we should have less cause to 

complain of the deception of the world�察�nothing so easy as 

physiognomy nor so useful。'  Somewhat in this latter strain I 

thought at the time of which I am speaking。  I am now older�察�and�察�

let us hope�察�less presumptuous。  It is true that in the course of 

my life I have scarcely ever had occasion to repent placing 

confidence in individuals whose countenances have prepossessed me 

in their favour�察�though to how many I may have been unjust�察�from 

whose countenances I may have drawn unfavourable conclusions�察�is 

another matter。



But it had been decreed by that Fate which governs our every action 

that I was soon to return to my old pursuits。  It was written that 

I should not yet cease to be Lav´engro�察�though I had become�察�in my 

own opinion�察�a kind of Lavater。  It is singular enough that my 

renewed ardour for philology seems to have been brought about 

indirectly by my physiognomical researches�察�in which had I not 

indulged�察�the event which I am about to relate�察�as far as connected 

with myself�察�might never have occurred。  Amongst the various 

countenances which I admitted during the period of my answering the 

bell�察�there were two which particularly pleased me�察�and which 

belonged to an elderly yeoman and his wife�察�whom some little 

business had brought to our law sanctuary。  I believe they 

experienced from me some kindness and attention�察�which won the old 

people's hearts。  So�察�one day�察�when their little business had been 

brought to a conclusion�察�and they chanced to be alone with me�察�who 

was seated as usual behi

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