worldly ways and byways(世俗之路)-第4章
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to entice them away again。
With each improvement in the speed of our steamers； something of the
glamour of Europe vanishes。 The crowds that yearly rush across see and
appreciate less in a lifetime than our parents did in their one tour abroad。 A
good lady of my acquaintance was complaining recently how much Paris
bored her。
〃What can you do to pass the time？〃 she asked。 I innocently answered
that I knew nothing so entrancing as long mornings passed at the Louvre。
〃Oh； yes； I do that too；〃 she replied； 〃but I like the 'Bon Marche' best！〃
A trip abroad has become a purely social function to a large number of
wealthy Americans； including 〃presentation〃 in London and a winter in
Rome or Cairo。 And just as a 〃smart〃 Englishman is sure to tell you that he
has never visited the 〃Tower；〃 it has become good form to ignore the
sight…seeing side of Europe； hundreds of New Yorkers never seeing
anything of Paris beyond the Rue de la Paix and the Bois。 They would as
soon think of going to Cluny or St。 Denis as of visiting the museum in our
park！
Such people go to Fontainebleau because they are buying furniture；
and they wish to see the best models。 They go to Versailles on the coach
and 〃do〃 the Palace during the half…hour before luncheon。 Beyond that；
enthusiasm rarely carries them。 As soon as they have settled themselves at
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the Bristol or the Rhin begins the endless treadmill of leaving cards on all
the people just seen at home； and whom they will meet again in a couple
of months at Newport or Bar Harbor。 This duty and the all…entrancing
occupation of getting clothes fills up every spare hour。 Indeed； clothes
seem to pervade the air of Paris in May； the conversation rarely deviating
from them。 If you meet a lady you know looking ill； and ask the cause； it
generally turns out to be 〃four hours a day standing to be fitted。〃
Incredible as it may seem； I have been told of one plain maiden lady； who
makes a trip across； spring and autumn； with the sole object of getting her
two yearly outfits。
Remembering the hundreds of cultivated people whose dream in life
（often unrealized from lack of means） has been to go abroad and visit the
scenes their reading has made familiar； and knowing what such a trip
would mean to them； and how it would be looked back upon during the
rest of an obscure life； I felt it almost a duty to 〃suppress〃 a wealthy
female （doubtless an American cousin of Lady Midas） when she informed
me； the other day； that decidedly she would not go abroad this spring。
〃It is not necessary。 Worth has my measures！〃
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CHAPTER 4 … The Outer and the
Inner Woman
IT is a sad commentary on our boasted civilization that cases of
shoplifting occur more and more frequently each year； in which the
delinquents are women of education and refinement； or at least belong to
families and occupy positions in which one would expect to find those
qualities！ The reason； however； is not difficult to discover。
In the wake of our hasty and immature prosperity has come （as it does
to all suddenly enriched societies） a love of ostentation； a desire to dazzle
the crowd by displays of luxury and rich trappings indicative of crude and
vulgar standards。 The newly acquired money； instead of being expended
for solid comforts or articles which would afford lasting satisfaction； is
lavished on what can be worn in public； or the outer shell of display； while
the home table and fireside belongings are neglected。 A glance around our
theatres； or at the men and women in our crowded thoroughfares； is
sufficient to reveal to even a casual observer that the mania for fine clothes
and what is costly； PER SE； has become the besetting sin of our day and
our land。
The tone of most of the papers and of our theatrical advertisements
reflects this feeling。 The amount of money expended for a work of art or a
new building is mentioned before any comment as to its beauty or fitness。
A play is spoken of as 〃Manager So and So's thirty…thousand…dollar
production！〃 The fact that a favorite actress will appear in four different
dresses during the three acts of a comedy； each toilet being a special
creation designed for her by a leading Parisian house； is considered of
supreme importance and is dwelt upon in the programme as a special
attraction。
It would be astonishing if the taste of our women were different；
considering the way clothes are eternally being dangled before their eyes。
Leading papers publish illustrated supplements devoted exclusively to the
subject of attire； thus carrying temptation into every humble home； and
suggesting unattainable luxuries。 Windows in many of the larger shops
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contain life…sized manikins loaded with the latest costly and ephemeral
caprices of fashion arranged to catch the eye of the poorer class of women；
who stand in hundreds gazing at the display like larks attracted by a mirror！
Watch those women as they turn away； and listen to their sighs of
discontent and envy。 Do they not tell volumes about petty hopes and
ambitions？
I do not refer to the wealthy women whose toilets are in keeping with
their incomes and the general footing of their households； that they should
spend more or less in fitting themselves out daintily is of little importance。
The point where this subject becomes painful is in families of small means
where young girls imagine that to be elaborately dressed is the first
essential of existence； and； in consequence； bend their labors and their
intelligence towards this end。 Last spring I asked an old friend where she
and her daughters intended passing their summer。 Her answer struck me as
being characteristic enough to quote： 〃We should much prefer；〃 she said；
〃returning to Bar Harbor； for we all enjoy that place and have many
friends there。 But the truth is； my daughters have bought themselves very
little in the way of toilet this year； as our finances are not in a flourishing
condition。 So my poor girls will be obliged to make their last year's
dresses do for another season。 Under these circumstances； it is out of the
question for us to return a second summer to the same place。〃
I do not know how this anecdote strikes my readers。 It made me
thoughtful and sad to think that； in a family of intelligent and practical
women； such a reason should be considered sufficient to outweigh
enjoyment； social relations； even health； and allowed to change the plans
of an entire family。
As American women are so fond of copying English ways they should
be willing to take a few lessons on the subject of raiment from across the
water。 As this is not intended to be a dissertation on 〃How to Dress Well
on Nothing a Year；〃 and as I feel the greatest diffidence in approaching a
subject of which I know absolutely nothing； it will be better to sheer off
from these reefs and quicksands。 Every one who reads these lines will
know perfectly well what is meant； when reference is made to the good
sense and practical utility of English women's dress。
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What disgusts and angers me （when my way takes me into our surface
or elevated cars or into ferry boats and local trains） is the utter dissonance
between the outfit of most of the women I meet and their position and
occupation。 So universal is this； that it might almost be laid down as an
axiom； that the American woman； no matter in what walk of life you
observe her； or what the time or the place； is always persistently and
grotesquely overdressed。 From the women who frequent the hotels of our
summer or winter resorts； down all the steps of the social staircase to the
char…woman； who consents （spasmodically） to remove the dust and waste…
papers from my office； there seems to be the same complete disregard of
fitness。 The other evening； in leaving my rooms； I brushed against a portly
person in the half…light of the corridor。 There was a shimmer of （what
appeared to my inexperienced eyes as） costly stuffs； a huge hat crowned
the shadow itself； 〃topped by nodding plumes；〃 which seemed to account
for the depleted condition of my feather duster。
I found on inquiring of the janitor； that the dressy person I had met；
was the char…woman in street attire； and that a closet was set aside in the
building； for the special purpose of her morning and evening
transformations； which she underwent in the belief that her social position
in Avenue A would suffer； should she appear in the streets wearing
anything less costly than seal…skin and velvet or such imitations of those
expensive materials as her stipend would permit。
I have as tenants of a small wooden house in Jersey City； a bank clerk；
his wife and their three daughters。 He earns in the neighborhood of fifteen
hundred dollars a year。 Their rent （with which； by the way； they are always
in arrears） is three hundred dollars。 I am favored spring and autumn by a
visit from the ladies of that family； in the hope （generally futile） of
inducing me to do some ornamental papering or painting in their residence；
subjects on which they have by experience found my agent to be
unapproachable。 When those four women descend upon me； I am fairly
dazzled by the splendor of their attire； and lost in wonder as to how t
