letters-第62章

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solemn　an　occasion。　　The　books　　current　among　them　are　the　Bible　with　the　commentaries　of　the　　rabbins；　parts　of　the　Mischna；　and　the　prayers　for　all　the　year；　　likewise；　but　more　rare；　the　Zohar；　which　all　speak　of　with　　unbounded　veneration；　though　few　pretend　to　understand　it。　　I　have　　not　unfrequently　seen　at　their　synagogues　the　Bible　Society's　　edition　of　the　Psalms；　and　they　appeared　to　prize　it　highly。

A　market　is　held　on　every　Thursday　and　Sunday　morning　beyond　the　　walls　of　Tangiers　in　a　place　called　the　SOC　DE　BARRA　or　outward　　market…place。　　Thither　repair　the　Moors　from　the　country；　bringing　　with　them　corn；　fruit　and　other　articles；　the　productions　of　their　　fields　and　gardens　for　the　consumption　of　the　town。　　It　is　my　　delight　to　visit　this　spot　which　is　on　the　side　of　a　hill；　and　　sitting　down　on　a　stone　to　gaze。　　What　a　singular　scene　presents　　itself　to　the　view：　　a　wild　confusion　of　men　and　horses；　of　donkeys　　and　camels；　of　countenances　of　all　hues；　swarthy　and　black；　livid　　and　pale；　of　turbans　of　all　dyes；　white；　green　and　red；　of　Jewish　　skull…caps　with　here　and　there　an　Andalusian　hat；　of　haiks　and　　gaberdines；　of　arrogant　Moors；　indifferent　Europeans　and　cringing　　Hebrews；　the　latter　walking　barefooted　in　the　place　where　the　corn　　is　sold；　which　the　Moor　says　is　sacred　and　unfit　to　be　pressed　by　　the　sandals　of　the　dog…Jew。　　What　a　hubbub　of　sounds：　　the　　unearthly　cry　of　the　enormous　camels　and　the　neighing；　braying；　and　　bleating　of　other　quadrupeds；　mingled　with　the　discordant　jabber　of　　various　and　strange　tongues。　　I　have　been　in　many　singular　places　　in　the　course　of　my　existence；　but　certainly　in　none　more　so　than　　the　SOC　DE　BARRA　of　Tangiers。

There　is　much　Spanish　spoken　in　this　place；　especially　amongst　the　　Jews；　it　is　also　generally　understood　by　the　Europeans。　　The　　prevalent　language　however　is　the　Arabic；　or　rather　a　dialect　of　it　　called　by　some　Mograbbin。　　I　was　glad　to　find　that　I　could　make　　myself　very　well　understood　with　the　Arabic　of　the　East；　　notwithstanding　that　it　differs　in　many　points　from　the　Mograbbin；　　or　language　of　the　West。　　One　thing　has　particularly　struck　me；　　namely　that　the　wild　people；　who　arrive　from　the　far　interior　and　　who　perhaps　have　never　before　seen　a　European；　invariably　　understand　me　best；　and　frequently　in　conversation　designate　　objects　with　the　same　words　as　myself；　which　however　are　not　　intelligible　to　the　Moors　of　the　coast。　　I　am　by　this　time　　exceedingly　well　known　at　Tangiers；　indeed　I　take　the　best　means　of　　being　so　by　entering　into　discourse　with　every　person。　　I　believe　I　　am　liked　by　the　Moors　and　am　certainly　treated　with　much　respect　by　　the　Jews　amongst　whom　a　report　prevails　that　I　am　a　Polish　rabbi。　　　Shortly　after　my　arrival　I　was　visited　by　the　most　wealthy　Jewish　　merchant　of　Tangiers；　who　pressed　me　in　the　strongest　manner　to　　take　up　my　abode　at　his　house；　assuring　me　＇that　I　should　live＇　at　　free　cost；　and　be　provided　with　all　the　comforts　and　luxuries　which　　could　be　procured。

I　will　now　proceed　to　relate　what　has　been　accomplished　in　the　　cause　of　the　Gospel　since　my　arrival　at　Tangiers。　　I　will　endeavour　　to　be　as　concise　as　possible；　reserving　some　particulars　until　a　　future　occasion。　　For　the　first　fortnight　I　accomplished　nothing；　　and　indeed　attempted　nothing　in　the　way　of　distribution；　being　　occupied　in　making　myself　acquainted　with　the　place　and　studying　　the　character　of　its　inhabitants。　　I　occasionally　spoke　to　the　　Christians；　who　are　principally　Genoese　and　Spanish　sailors　and　　their　families；　on　the　subject　of　religion；　but　with　the　greatest　　caution；　being　unwilling　to　alarm　the　two　or　three　friars　who　　reside　in　what　is　called　the　Spanish　convent；　who　are　the　only　　officiating　Christian　priests　of　the　place；　and　who　might　have　　warned　their　flock　against　the　heretic　intruder。　　I　found；　as　I　had　　anticipated；　great　ignorance　among　these　poor　people　respecting　the　　most　important　points　of　the　religion　which　they　profess；　and　the　　Gospel　of　God　they　had　never　seen　nor　heard　of。　　At　the　end　of　the　　above…mentioned　period　I　employed　a　Jewish　youth　to　carry　the　　Testament　to　their　houses　and　to　offer　it　to　them　for　sale。　　It　is　　with　humble　gratitude　to　the　Lord　that　I　am　able　to　state　that　　considerable　success　crowned　our　efforts。　　The　blessed　Book　is　now　　in　the　hands　of　most　of　the　Christians　of　Tangiers；　from　the　lowest　　to　the　highest；　from　the　fisherman　to　the　consul。　　One　dozen　and　a　　half　were　carried　to　Tetuan　on　speculation；　a　town　about　six　　leagues　from　hence；　they　will　be　offered　to　the　Christians　who　　reside　there。　　Other　two　dozen　are　on　their　way　to　distant　　Mogadore。　　One　individual；　a　tavern…keeper；　has　purchased　　Testaments　to　the　number　of　thirty；　which　he　says　he　has　no　doubt　　he　can　dispose　of　to　the　foreign　sailors；　who　stop　occasionally　at　　his　house。　　You　will　be　surprised　to　hear　that　several　amongst　the　　Jews　have　purchased　copies　of　the　New　Testament；　with　the　intention　　as　they　state　of　improving　themselves　in　Spanish；　but　I　believe　　from　curiosity。　　Whatever　their　motive　be；　let　them　but　once　read　　this　holy　Book　and　I　have　no　fear　of　their　remaining　enemies　of　the　　Lamb　whom　their　fathers　crucified。　　I　regret　that　only　few　can　read　　the　Spanish　language；　their　law　forbidding　them　to　read　or　write　　any　characters　but　the　Hebrew。　　Had　I　the　New　Testament　to　offer　　them　in　the　latter　tongue；　I　believe　that　I　could　dispose　of　　thousands　of　copies　in　Barbary。　　My　work　being　completed　here　for　　the　present；　I　now　hasten　back　to　Seville；　pray　write　to　me　　speedily　directing　to　the　usual　place。

I　remain；　Revd　and　dear　Sir；

Truly　yours；

G。　BORROW。



LETTER：　21st　September；　1839



To　the　Rev。　G。　Browne　（ENDORSED：　recd。　Oct。　7；　1839）　CADIZ；　SEPR。　21　＇1839＇。

REVD。　AND　DEAR　SIR　AND　EXCELLENT　FRIEND；　…　I　arrived　at　Cadiz　this　　morning　by　a　small　coasting…vessel；　after　undergoing　a　quarantine　　of　four　days　at　Tarifa。　　On　calling　at　Mr。　Brackenbury's　I　received　　your　kind　communication　of　the　29th　July；　acquainting　me　with　the　　resolution　of　the　Committee。

Had　I　been　aware　of　that　resolution　before　my　departure　for　　Tangiers；　I　certainly　should　not　have　gone。　　My　expedition；　　however；　was　the　result　of　much　reflection。　　I　wished　to　carry　the　　Gospel　to　the　Christians　of　the　Barbary　shore　who　were　much　in　want　　of　it；　and　I　had　one　hundred　and　thirty　Testaments　at　San　Lucar　　which　I　could　only　make　available　by　exportation。　　The　success　　which　it　has　pleased　the　Lord　to　yield　me　in　my　humble　efforts　at　　distribution　in　Barbary　will；　I　believe；　prove　the　best　criterion　　as　to　the　fitness　of　the　enterprise。

I　stated　in　my　last　communication　to　Mr。　Brandram　the　plan　which　I　　conceived　to　be　the　best　for　circulating　that　portion　of　the　　edition　of　the　New　Testament　which　remains　unsold　at　Madrid；　and　I　　scarcely　needed　a　stimulant　in　the　execution　of　my　duty。　　At　　present　however　I　know　not　what　to　do；　I　am　sorrowful；　　disappointed；　and　unstrung。

I　wish　to　return　to　England　as　soon　as　possible；　but　I　have　books　　and　papers　at　Madrid　which　are　of　much　importance　to　me　and　which　I　　cannot　abandon。　　This　perhaps　alone　prevents　me　embarking　in　the　　next　packet。　　I　have　moreover　brought　with　me　from　Tangiers　the　　Jewish　youth　who　so　powerfully　assisted　me　in　that　place　in　the　　work　of　distribution。　　I　had　hoped　to　have　made　him　of　service　in　　Spain；　he　is　virtuous　and　clever。　　My　servant　Antonio　I　was　　compelled　to　send　back　to　Madrid　ere　my　departure　from　Seville　on　　account　of　his　many　irregularities。

I　am　almost　tempted　to　ask　whether　some　strange；　some　unaccountable　　delusion　does　not　exist。　　What　should　induce　me　to　stay　in　Spain；　　as　you　appear　to　suppose　I　intend？　　I　may；　however；　have　　misunderstood　you。　　I　wish　to　receive　a　fresh　communication　as　soon　　as　possible　either　from　yourself　or　Mr。　Brandram；　in　the　meantime　I　　shall　go　to　Seville；　to　which　place　and　to　the　usual　number　pray　　direct。

I　enclose　the　last　letter　which　I　received　from　the　firm　of　O'Shea；　　from　which　it　will　appear　that　I　received　＇word　missing＇　thirty　of　　the　fifty　pounds　drawn　for：　　the　residue　covers　the　expenses　at　　Madrid；　of　which　I　defray　one…half；　the　books　being　deposited　at　my　　lodgings。　　I　shall　shortly　send　in　my　account　for　the　last　four　　months。　　Pray　present　my　kind　remembrances　to　Mrs。　B。　and　believe　　me　to　remain；　Revd。　and　dear　Sir；

Ever　truly　yours；

G。　B。

P。S。　…　Best　regards　also　to　Messrs。　Brandram　and　Jowett。

I　have　this　moment　received　a　letter　from　Seville；　which　was　　awaiting　my　arrival　at　the　post　office。　　The　British　consul　states　　that　the　Bibles　in　embargo　there　are　at　the　disposal　of　the　　Society；　this　is　the　work　of　my　friend　Mr。　Southern　at　Madrid；　for　　had　he　not　exerted　his　powerful　interest　in　the　matter　they　were　　lost；　and　could　not　even　have　been　exported。　　To　whom　shall　I　send　　them？　　To　Gibraltar；　or　to　England？



LETTER：　29th　September；　1839



To　the　Rev。　A。　Brandram　（Private）　（ENDORSED：　recd。　Octr。　14；　1839）　SEVILLE；　PLAZUELA　DE　LA　PILA　SECA　No。　7；　29TH　SEPR。　1839。

REVD。　AND　DEAR　SIR；　…　I　beg　leave　to　return　you　my　best　thanks　for　　your　kind　communication　of　the　27th　Aug。　which　I　found　awaiting　me　　on　my　return　from　Tangiers；　and　for　which　I　was　already　to　a　　certain　degree　prepared　by　my　dear　friend　Mr。　Browne's　letter　　directed　to　the　care　of　Mr。　Brackenbury　at　Cadiz。　　I　shall　act　up　　as　soon　as　possible　to　the　Committee's　request；　that　I　take　　immediate　measures　for　selling　the　remainder　of　our　Bible　stock　in　　Spain；　or　leaving　it　in　safe　custody。　　I　will　now　tell　you　in　a　few　　words　the　steps　which　it　appears　to　me　most　advisable　to　take　in　　the　present　emergency。

I　shall　mount　my　horses　and　depart　for　La　Mancha；　where　I　shall　　take　up　my　abode　for　a　few　weeks　in　a　town　with　which　you　are　　already　acquainted　and　where　I　believe　I　have　friends；　and　to　which　　place　I　shall　order　a　chest　of　Testaments　to　be　despatched　from　　Madrid；　on　the　receipt　of　which　I　shall　endeavour　with　the　　assistance　of　Hayim　Ben　Attar　to　put　as　many　copies　as　possible　　into　circulation。　　I　have　always　wished　to　do　something　in　La　　Mancha；　which　is　in　every　respect　the　worst　part　of　Spain。　　I　　distinctly　see　that　it　must　be　now　or　never。　　God　has　granted　me　　success　in　many　difficult　enterprises：　　perhaps　it　will　please　Him　　to　favour　me　in　this。

I　shall　then　move　upon　Madrid；　and　arrange　matters　in　that　capital。　　　If　I　may　be　permitted　here　to　offer　my　advice；　I　would　strongly　　recommend　that　four　hundred　copies　of　the　New　Testament　be　left　　there　in　deposit；　with　those　of　Saint　Luke　in　Gypsy　and　Basque　　which　remain　unsold。　　Of　the　former　Gospel；　indeed；　there　are　not　　many；　nearly　one　hundred　copies　having　been　circulated　amongst　the　　Rommanees　of　Andalusia　during　my　present　visit。　　I　then　purpose　to　　make　for　France；　passing　through　Saragossa；　in　which　place；　which　　is　large　and　populous；　I　hope　to　accomplish　some　good　in　the　Lord's　　cause。　　This　is　the　outline　of　my　plan；　which　I　shall　attempt　to　　put　into　execution　without　delay；　though　if　any　one　could　propose　a　　wiser；　and　better　adapted　to　the　present　circumstances；　I　shall　at　　once　relinquish　it。

I　have　just　received　a　communication　from　Mr。　Brackenbury；　in　which　　he　has　done　me　the　honour　to