letters-第61章

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atters；　and　the　state　of　opinion　　respecting　religious　innovation。　　I　was　flattered　to　find　that　his　　ideas　in　many　points　accorded　with　my　own；　and　we　were　both　　decidedly　of　opinion　that；　notwithstanding　the　great　persecution　　and　outcry　which　had　lately　been　raised　against　the　Gospel；　the　　battle　was　by　no　means　lost　in　Spain；　and　that　we　might　yet　hope　to　　see　the　holy　cause　triumph。

During　my　stay　at　Cadiz　I　experienced　every　kind　of　hospitality　　from　Mr。　B。　and　his　charming　family。　　Upon　my　departure　he　supplied　　me　with　a　letter　of　introduction　to　Mr。　Hay；　the　British　consul　at　　Tangiers；　which　I　have　since　learned　was　most　flattering　to　myself　　and　worded　in　the　most　energetic　manner。　　I　quitted　Cadiz　on　the　　morning　of　Sunday；　the　4th　August；　in　the　steamer　BALEAR；　arriving　　at　Gibraltar　on　the　evening　of　the　same　day。　　Nothing　particular　　occurred　to　me　during　my　stay　at　Gibraltar；　where　I　engaged　my　　passage　on　board　a　small　trading　vessel　for　Tangiers。　　We　were　　detained　by　various　causes　until　Thursday　the　8th；　when　we　sailed　　about　noon；　and　assisted　by　a　strong　and　favourable　wind　we　reached　　the　harbour　of　Tangiers　before　sunset。　　I　was　not　permitted　to　go　　on　shore　that　night；　my　passport　and　bill　of　health　having　first　to　　be　examined　by　the　authorities。　　Early　however　on　the　following　　morning；　Mr。　Hay；　who　had　received　Mr。　Brackenbury's　letters　of　　introduction；　sent　a　Moorish　soldier　and　his　own　servant　to　conduct　　me　to　his　house；　where　he　received　me　in　the　kindest　manner。　　He　　bad　already　procured　me　a　comfortable　lodging　in　the　house　of　a　　Christian　woman　where　I　have　remained　ever　since　my　arrival　at　　Tangiers；　constantly　receiving　every　species　of　attention　and　　civility　from　Ir。　Hay。

Tangiers　stands　on　the　side　of　a　rather　steep　hill　which　rises　　above　the　sea。　　It　is　a　walled　town；　and　towards　the　water　is　　defended　with　batteries　mounted　with　heavy　cannon。　　The　streets　are　　very　numerous　and　intersect　each　other　in　all　directions；　they　are　　narrow　and　precipitous；　and　the　houses　low；　small　and　mean。　　The　　principal　mosque；　or　JAMMA　＇DJMAH＇　is　rather　a　handsome　edifice；　　and　its　tower；　or　SUMAH；　which　is　built　of　bricks　of　various　　colours；　presents　a　picturesque　appearance　when　viewed　from　the　　sea：　　of　its　interior　I　can　of　course　say　little；　as　any　Christian　　who　should　venture　to　intrude　would　be　instantly　cast　forth　and　　probably　killed　by　the　populace。　　About　half　way　up　the　hill　within　　the　town　there　is　a　small　market…place　called　in　the　language　of　　the　country　SOC。　　It　is　surrounded　with　little　shops　or　booths；　in　　which　all　kinds　of　dry　fruits；　such　as　dates；　raisins；　almonds；　and　　walnuts　are　exposed　for　sale；　and　also　honey；　soap；　sugar；　and　such　　other　articles　of　grocery。　　These　little　shops　are　not　in　general　　kept　by　Moors；　but　by　people　from　the　country　of　Suz；　who　speak　a　　different　language　from　the　Moors；　and　are　of　a　different　race；　　being　a　branch　of　the　Berber　stem；　they　are　the　grocers　of　Barbary　　and　are；　in　comparison　with　the　Moors；　an　honest；　peaceable；　and　　industrious　people。　　The　castle　of　the　Governor　stands　at　the　　northern　extremity　of　Tangiers；　on　the　top　of　a　high　eminence　which　　towers　above　the　town；　its　outer　walls　embrace　a　very　large　portion　　of　ground；　which　is　principally　occupied　by　large　edifices　in　the　　greatest　dilapidation　and　decay。　　The　castle　itself　when　I　visited　　it　was　undergoing　repair；　during　the　absence　of　the　pasha　who　has　　since　returned。　　All　its　inlets　and　outlets　and　also　the　greatest　　part　of　the　apartments　were　choked　up　with　ruins；　rubbish；　and　　mortar。　　The　courtyard　however　is　very　fine；　and　is　adorned　with　a　　fountain　distilling　limpid　water；　which　is　a　rare　spectacle　in　　Tangiers　where　water　is　not　in　abundance。　　At　each　end　of　this　　court　there　is　a　hall　of　audience；　highly　magnificent　in　its　way；　　with　a　roof　of　rich　fretted　work　in　the　old　Moorish　taste；　such　as　　I　have　seen　in　the　Alhambra　of　Granada；　and　in　that　truly　fairy　　palace　the　Alcazar　of　Seville。

Tangiers　contains　a　population　of　about　twenty　thousand　souls；　of　　which　at　least　one…third　are　Jews：　　the　Christian　portion　does　not　　amount　to　about　two　hundred　and　fifty　individuals；　including　the　　various　consuls　and　their　families。　　These　latter　gentlemen　enjoy　　considerable　authority　in　the　town；　so　much　so　that　in　all　disputes　　between　Moors　and　Christians　they　alone　are　the　judges；　and　their　　decision　is　law；　they　are　a　very　respectable　body；　being　without　　one　exception　exceedingly　well…bred　gentlemanly　individuals；　and　　several　of　them；　particularly　Mr　Hay；　the　British　consul…general；　　possessed　of　high　literary　attainments。　　They　enjoy　very　large　　salaries　from　their　respective　governments；　varying　from　ten　to　　sixteen　thousand　dollars　per　annum；　so　that；　as　all　the　necessaries　　and　indeed　many　of　the　luxuries　of　life　may　be　obtained　at　a　very　　cheap　price　at　Tangiers；　they　live　in　a　state　of　magnificence　more　　akin　to　that　of　petty　kings　than　consuls　in　general。　　The　most　　perfect　harmony　exists　amongst　them；　and　if；　at　any　time；　any　　little　dispute　occur　between　two　or　three　of　them；　the　rest　　instantly　interfere　and　arrange　matters；　and　they　are　invariably　　united　to　a　man　against　the　slightest　infringement　of　their　　privileges　and　immunities　on　the　part　of　the　Moorish　Government；　　and　a　slight　or　injury　to　one　is　instantly　resented　by　all。　　The　　duties　of　the　greatest　part　of　them　are　far　from　being　onerous；　　more　especially　as　each　is　provided　with　a　vice…consul；　who　is　also　　an　exceedingly　well…bred　and　very　well…paid　gentleman。　　They　pass　　the　greatest　part　of　their　time　in　cultivating　their　delicious　　gardens；　which；　surrounded　by　hedges　of　KSOB；　which　is　a　species　of　　gigantic　reed；　cover　the　hills　in　the　vicinity　of　Tangiers。　　Their　　houses；　which　are　palace…looking　buildings　in　the　European　taste　　and　which　contrast　strangely　with　the　mean　huts　of　the　Moors；　are　　all　surmounted　by　a　flag…staff；　which　on　gala　days　displays　the　　banner　of　its　respective　nation。　　It　is　curious　then　to　gaze　from　　the　castle　hill　on　the　town　below；　twelve　banners　are　streaming　in　　the　wind　of　the　Levant；　which　blows　here　almost　incessantly。　　One　　is　the　bloody　flag　of　the　Moor；　the　natural　master　of　the　soil；　but　　the　eleven　are　of　foreigners　and　Nazarenes；　and　are　emblems　of　　distant　and　different　people。　　There　floats　the　meteor　banner　of　　England　beside　the　dirty　rags　of　Spain　and　Portugal。　　There　the　　pride　of　Naples；　of　Sardinia；　and　Sweden。　　There　the　angry　　tricolor；　and　not　far　from　it　the　most　beautiful　of　all；　the　　Dannebrog　of　Denmark；　a　white　cross　gleaming　consolingly　amidst　　blood　and　fire；　as　when　first　seen　by　Waldemar；　neighbour　to　it　the　　Austrian；　there　the　Orange；　and　yonder；　far　remote　from　all；　like　　the　country；　the　stripes　and　stars　of　the　United　States。　　Tangiers；　　with　a　Moorish　and　Jewish　population；　is　not　the　city　either　of　the　　Moor　or　the　Jew：　　it　is　that　of　the　consuls。

Were　it　possible　for　any　unprejudiced　and　rational　being　to　doubt　　for　a　moment　that　the　religion　of　Mahomet　is　a　false　one　and　　uncalculated　to　promote　the　moral　and　political　improvement　of　　mankind；　a　slight　glance　at　this　Mahometan　country　would　be　　sufficient　to　undeceive　him。　　The　Moors　are　the　most　fanatic　of　all　　Mahometans；　and　consider　the　Turks；　Persians；　and　other　followers　　of　the　Desert…Prophet；　as　seceders　from　the　severe　precepts　of　　their　religion。　　What　is　their　state？　　They　are　governed　in　their　　towns　and　provinces　by　arbitrary　despots　called　Pashas；　who　are　　accountable　to　no　person　but　the　Emperor；　whose　authority　they　　frequently　set　at　nought；　and　who　is　himself　a　despot　of　the　most　　terrible　description。　　Their　lives；　properties；　and　families　are　　perfectly　at　the　disposal　of　these　men；　who　decapitate；　imprison；　　plunder；　and　violate　as　their　inclination　tempts　them。　　In　this　　country　it　is　every　person's　interest；　however　wealthy；　to　exhibit　　an　appearance　of　abject　poverty；　as　the　suspicion　of　wealth　　instantly　produces　from　the　Sultan　or　Pasha　a　demand　for　some　large　　sum；　which　must　be　forthwith　paid　or　decapitation　or　torture　are　　the　severe　alternatives。　　Here　justice　is　indeed　an　empty　name；　the　　most　atrocious　criminals　escaping　unpunished　if　able　to　offer　a　　bribe　sufficient　to　tempt　the　cupidity　of　those　whose　duty　it　is　to　　administer　it。　　Here　money　is　sought　after　with　insatiable　avidity　　by　great　and　small；　for　its　own　sake；　and　not　for　what　it　will　　produce。　　It　is　piled　up　in　the　treasury　or　is　buried　underground；　　according　to　the　situation　in　life　of　its　possessors。　　In　this　land　　there　is　neither　public　peace　or　individual　security；　no　one　　travels　a　league　but　at　the　extreme　danger　of　his　life；　and　war　is　　continually　raging　not　against　foreign　enemies　but　amongst　the　　people　themselves。　　The　Sultan　collects　armies　and　marches　against　　this　or　that　province；　which　is　sure　to　be　in　a　state　of　rebellion；　　if　successful；　a　thousand　heads　are　borne　before　him　on　his　return　　in　ghastly　triumph　on　the　lances　of　his　warriors；　and　if　　vanquished；　his　own　not　unfrequently　blackens　in　the　sun　above　the　　gate　of　some　town　or　village。　　Here　truth　and　good　faith　are　　utterly　unknown；　friendship　exists　not；　nor　kindly　social　　intercourse；　here　pleasure　is　sought　in　the　practice　of　　abominations　or　in　the　chewing　of　noxious　and　intoxicating　drugs；　　here　men　make　a　pomp　and　a　parade　of　their　infamy；　and　the　　cavalcade　which　escorts　with　jealous　eye　the　wives　and　concubines　　of　the　potentate　on　a　march　or　journey　is　also　charged　with　the　　care　of　his　ZAMMINS；　the　unfortunate　youths　who　administer　to　his　　fouler　passions。　　Such　is　the　moral；　and　the　political　state　of　　Morocco！　　Such　are　the　fruits　of　a　religion　which　is　not　that　of　　the　Bible。

The　state　of　the　Jews　in　this　country　is　in　every　respect　pitiable。　　　It　is　one　of　great　thraldom；　yet　is　nevertheless　far　superior　to　　what　it　was　previous　to　the　accession　of　the　present　monarch　Muley　　Abd　al　Rahman　to　the　throne；　before　that　period　they　enjoyed　　scarcely　any　of　the　rights　of　human　beings；　and　were　plundered；　　beaten；　and　maimed　by　the　Moslems　at　pleasure。　　As　the　Moors　of　　Barbary　are　the　most　fanatic　amongst　the　Mahometans；　so　are　the　　Barbary　Jews　the　most　superstitious　of　their　race；　observing　in　the　　strictest　manner　the　precepts　of　the　Talmud　and　the　sages。　　A　great　　many　singular　ceremonies　and　usages　are　to　be　found　amongst　them　　which　are　not　observed　by　the　Hebrews　in　any　other　part　of　the　　world；　more　especially　at　their　wedding　festivals　which　are　carried　　on　during　a　period　of　eleven　days；　during　which　the　house　which　is　　open　to　all　comers　exhibits　a　continual　scene　of　dancing；　feasting；　　and　revelry　of　every　description。　　There　is　much　at　these　marriages　　which　has　served　to　remind　me　of　those　of　the　Gitanos　of　Spain　at　　which　I　have　been　frequently　present；　especially　the　riot　and　waste　　practised；　for　like　the　Gitano；　the　Barbary　Jew　frequently　spends　　during　the　days　of　his　wedding　not　only　all　that　he　is　possessed　　of；　but　becomes　an　embarrassed　man　for　the　rest　of　his　life　by　the　　sums　which　he　is　compelled　to　borrow　in　order　not　to　incur　the　　opprobrium　of　appearing　mean　on　so　solemn　an　occasion。　　The　books　　current　among　them　are　the　Bible　with　the　commentaries　of　the　　rabbi