roughing it-第6章

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He　had　no　sugar　and　no　milknot　even　a　spoon　to　stir　the　ingredients
with。

We　could　not　eat　the　bread　or　the　meat；　nor　drink　the　〃slumgullion。〃　And
when　I　looked　at　that　melancholy　vinegar…cruet；　I　thought　of　the　anecdote
（a　very；　very　old　one；　even　at　that　day）　of　the　traveler　who　sat　down　to
a　table　which　had　nothing　on　it　but　a　mackerel　and　a　pot　of　mustard。　　He
asked　the　landlord　if　this　was　all。　　The　landlord　said：

〃All！　　Why；　thunder　and　lightning；　I　should　think　there　was　mackerel
enough　there　for　six。〃

〃But　I　don't　like　mackerel。〃

〃Ohthen　help　yourself　to　the　mustard。〃

In　other　days　I　had　considered　it　a　good；　a　very　good；　anecdote；　but
there　was　a　dismal　plausibility　about　it；　here；　that　took　all　the　humor
out　of　it。

Our　breakfast　was　before　us；　but　our　teeth　were　idle。

I　tasted　and　smelt；　and　said　I　would　take　coffee；　I　believed。　　The
station…boss　stopped　dead　still；　and　glared　at　me　speechless。　　At　last；
when　he　came　to；　he　turned　away　and　said；　as　one　who　communes　with
himself　upon　a　matter　too　vast　to　grasp：

〃Coffee！　　Well；　if　that　don't　go　clean　ahead　of　me；　I'm　d…d！〃

We　could　not　eat；　and　there　was　no　conversation　among　the　hostlers　and
herdsmenwe　all　sat　at　the　same　board。　　At　least　there　was　no
conversation　further　than　a　single　hurried　request；　now　and　then；　from
one　employee　to　another。　　It　was　always　in　the　same　form；　and　always
gruffly　friendly。　　Its　western　freshness　and　novelty　startled　me；　at
first；　and　interested　me；　but　it　presently　grew　monotonous；　and　lost　its
charm。　　It　was：

〃Pass　the　bread；　you　son　of　a　skunk！〃　　No；　I　forgetskunk　was　not　the
word；　it　seems　to　me　it　was　still　stronger　than　that；　I　know　it　was；　in
fact；　but　it　is　gone　from　my　memory；　apparently。　　However；　it　is　no
matterprobably　it　was　too　strong　for　print；　anyway。　　It　is　the　landmark
in　my　memory　which　tells　me　where　I　first　encountered　the　vigorous　new
vernacular　of　the　occidental　plains　and　mountains。

We　gave　up　the　breakfast；　and　paid　our　dollar　apiece　and　went　back　to　our
mail…bag　bed　in　the　coach；　and　found　comfort　in　our　pipes。　　Right　here　we
suffered　the　first　diminution　of　our　princely　state。　　We　left　our　six
fine　horses　and　took　six　mules　in　their　place。　　But　they　were　wild
Mexican　fellows；　and　a　man　had　to　stand　at　the　head　of　each　of　them　and
hold　him　fast　while　the　driver　gloved　and　got　himself　ready。　　And　when　at
last　he　grasped　the　reins　and　gave　the　word；　the　men　sprung　suddenly　away
from　the　mules'　heads　and　the　coach　shot　from　the　station　as　if　it　had
issued　from　a　cannon。　　How　the　frantic　animals　did　scamper！　　It　was　a
fierce　and　furious　gallopand　the　gait　never　altered　for　a　moment　till
we　reeled　off　ten　or　twelve　miles　and　swept　up　to　the　next　collection　of
little　station…huts　and　stables。

So　we　flew　along　all　day。　　At　2　P。M。　　the　belt　of　timber　that　fringes　the
North　Platte　and　marks　its　windings　through　the　vast　level　floor　of　the
Plains　came　in　sight。　　At　4　P。M。　　we　crossed　a　branch　of　the　river；　and
at　5　P。M。　　we　crossed　the　Platte　itself；　and　landed　at　Fort　Kearney；
fifty…six　hours　out　from　St。　JoeTHREE　HUNDRED　MILES！

Now　that　was　stage…coaching　on　the　great　overland；　ten　or　twelve　years
ago；　when　perhaps　not　more　than　ten　men　in　America；　all　told；　expected　to
live　to　see　a　railroad　follow　that　route　to　the　Pacific。　　But　the
railroad　is　there；　now；　and　it　pictures　a　thousand　odd　comparisons　and
contrasts　in　my　mind　to　read　the　following　sketch；　in　the　New　York　Times；
of　a　recent　trip　over　almost　the　very　ground　I　have　been　describing。　　I
can　scarcely　comprehend　the　new　state　of　things：

　　　　　〃ACROSS　THE　CONTINENT。

　　　　　〃At　4。20　P。M。；　Sunday；　we　rolled　out　of　the　station　at　Omaha；　and
　　　　　started　westward　on　our　long　jaunt。　　A　couple　of　hours　out；　dinner
　　　　　was　announcedan　〃event〃　to　those　of　us　who　had　yet　to　experience
　　　　　what　it　is　to　eat　in　one　of　Pullman's　hotels　on　wheels；　so；　stepping
　　　　　into　the　car　next　forward　of　our　sleeping　palace；　we　found　ourselves
　　　　　in　the　dining…car。　　It　was　a　revelation　to　us；　that　first　dinner　on
　　　　　Sunday。　　And　though　we　continued　to　dine　for　four　days；　and　had　as
　　　　　many　breakfasts　and　suppers；　our　whole　party　never　ceased　to　admire
　　　　　the　perfection　of　the　arrangements；　and　the　marvelous　results
　　　　　achieved。　　Upon　tables　covered　with　snowy　linen；　and　garnished　with
　　　　　services　of　solid　silver；　Ethiop　waiters；　flitting　about　in　spotless
　　　　　white；　placed　as　by　magic　a　repast　at　which　Delmonico　himself　could
　　　　　have　had　no　occasion　to　blush；　and；　indeed；　in　some　respects　it
　　　　　would　be　hard　for　that　distinguished　chef　to　match　our　menu；　for；　in
　　　　　addition　to　all　that　ordinarily　makes　up　a　first…chop　dinner；　had　we
　　　　　not　our　antelope　steak　（the　gormand　who　has　not　experienced　this
　　　　　bah！　what　does　he　know　of　the　feast　of　fat　things？）　our　delicious
　　　　　mountain…brook　trout；　and　choice　fruits　and　berries；　and　（sauce
　　　　　piquant　and　unpurchasable！）　our　sweet…scented；　appetite…compelling
　　　　　air　of　the　prairies？

　　　　　You　may　depend　upon　it；　we　all　did　justice　to　the　good　things；　and
　　　　　as　we　washed　them　down　with　bumpers　of　sparkling　Krug；　whilst　we
　　　　　sped　along　at　the　rate　of　thirty　miles　an　hour；　agreed　it　was　the
　　　　　fastest　living　we　had　ever　experienced。　　（We　beat　that；　however；　two
　　　　　days　afterward　when　we　made　twenty…seven　miles　in　twenty…seven
　　　　　minutes；　while　our　Champagne　glasses　filled　to　the　brim　spilled　not
　　　　　a　drop！）　After　dinner　we　repaired　to　our　drawing…room　car；　and；　as
　　　　　it　was　Sabbath　eve；　intoned　some　of　the　grand　old　hymns〃Praise　God
　　　　　from　whom；〃　etc。；　〃Shining　Shore；〃　〃Coronation；〃　etc。the　voices　of
　　　　　the　men　singers　and　of　the　women　singers　blending　sweetly　in　the
　　　　　evening　air；　while　our　train；　with　its　great；　glaring　Polyphemus
　　　　　eye；　lighting　up　long　vistas　of　prairie；　rushed　into　the　night　and
　　　　　the　Wild。　　Then　to　bed　in　luxurious　couches；　where　we　slept　the
　　　　　sleep　of　the　just　and　only　awoke　the　next　morning　（Monday）　at　eight
　　　　　o'clock；　to　find　ourselves　at　the　crossing　of　the　North　Platte；
　　　　　three　hundred　miles　from　Omahafifteen　hours　and　forty　minutes
　　　　　out。〃




CHAPTER　V。

Another　night　of　alternate　tranquillity　and　turmoil。　　But　morning　came；
by　and　by。　　It　was　another　glad　awakening　to　fresh　breezes；　vast　expanses
of　level　greensward；　bright　sunlight；　an　impressive　solitude　utterly
without　visible　human　beings　or　human　habitations；　and　an　atmosphere　of
such　amazing　magnifying　properties　that　trees　that　seemed　close　at　hand
were　more　than　three　mile　away。　　We　resumed　undress　uniform；　climbed
a…top　of　the　flying　coach；　dangled　our　legs　over　the　side；　shouted
occasionally　at　our　frantic　mules；　merely　to　see　them　lay　their　ears　back
and　scamper　faster；　tied　our　hats　on　to　keep　our　hair　from　blowing　away；
and　leveled　an　outlook　over　the　world…wide　carpet　about　us　for　things　new
and　strange　to　gaze　at。　　Even　at　this　day　it　thrills　me　through　and
through　to　think　of　the　life；　the　gladness　and　the　wild　sense　of　freedom
that　used　to　make　the　blood　dance　in　my　veins　on　those　fine　overland
mornings！

Along　about　an　hour　after　breakfast　we　saw　the　first　prairie…dog
villages；　the　first　antelope；　and　the　first　wolf。　　If　I　remember　rightly；
this　latter　was　the　regular　cayote　（pronounced　ky…o…te）　of　the　farther
deserts。　　And　if　it　was；　he　was　not　a　pretty　creature　or　respectable
either；　for　I　got　well　acquainted　with　his　race　afterward；　and　can　speak
with　confidence。　　The　cayote　is　a　long；　slim；　sick　and　sorry…looking
skeleton；　with　a　gray　wolf…skin　stretched　over　it；　a　tolerably　bushy　tail
that　forever　sags　down　with　a　despairing　expression　of　forsakenness　and
misery；　a　furtive　and　evil　eye；　and　a　long；　sharp　face；　with　slightly
lifted　lip　and　exposed　teeth。　　He　has　a　general　slinking　expression　all
over。　　The　cayote　is　a　living；　breathing　allegory　of　Want。　　He　is　always
hungry。

He　is　always　poor；　out　of　luck　and　friendless。　　The　meanest　creatures
despise　him；　and　even　the　fleas　would　desert　him　for　a　velocipede。　　He　is
so　spiritless　and　cowardly　that　even　while　his　exposed　teeth　are
pretending　a　threat；　the　rest　of　his　face　is　apologizing　for　it。　　And　he
is　so　homely！so　scrawny；　and　ribby；　and　coarse…haired；　and　pitiful。
When　he　sees　you　he　lifts　his　lip　and　lets　a　flash　of　his　teeth　out；　and
then　turns　a　little　out　of　the　course　he　was　pursuing；　depresses　his　head
a　bit；　and　strikes　a　long；　soft…footed　trot　through　the　sage…brush；
glancing　over　his　shoulder　at　you；　from　time　to　time；　till　he　is　about
out　of　easy　pistol　range；　and　then　he　stops　and　takes　a　deliberate　survey
of　you；　he　will　trot　fifty　yards　and　stop　againanother　fifty　and　stop
again；　and　finally　the　gray　of　his　gliding　body　blends　with　the　gray　of
the　sage…brush；　and　he　disappears。　　All　this　is　when　you　make　no
demonstration　against　him；　but　if　you　do；　he　develops　a　livelier　interest
in　his　journey；　and　instantly　electrifies　his　heels　and　puts　such　a　deal
of　real　estate　between　himself　and　your　weapon；　that　by　the　time　you　have
raised　the　hammer　you　see　that　you　need　a　minie　rifle；　and　by　the　time
you　have　got　him　in　line　you　need　a　rifled　cannon；　and　by　the　time　you
have　〃drawn　a　bead〃　on　him　you　see　well　enough　that　nothing　but　an
unusually　long…winded　streak　of　lightning　could　reach　him　where　he　is
now。　　But　if　you　start　a　swift…footed　dog　after　him；　you　will　enjoy　it
ever　so　muchespecially　if　it　is　a　dog　that　has　a　good　opinion　of
himself；　and　has　been　brought　up　to　think　he　knows　something　about　speed。

The　cayote　will　go　swinging　gently　off　on　that　deceitful　trot　of　his；　and
every　little　while　he　will　smile　a　fraudful　smile　over　his　shoulder　that
will　fill　that　dog　entirely　full　of　encouragement　and　worldly　ambition；
and　make　him　lay　his　head　still　lower　to　the　ground；　and　stretch　his　neck
further　to　the　front；　and　pant　more　fiercely；　and　stick　his　tail　out
straighter　behind；　and　move　his　furious　legs　with　a　yet　wilder　frenzy；
and　leave　a　broader　and　broader；　and　higher　and　denser　cloud　of　desert
sand　smoking　behind；　and　marking　his　long　wake　across　the　level　plain！
And　all　this　time　the　dog　is　only　a　short　twenty　feet　behind　the　cayote；
and　to　save　the　soul　of　him　he　cannot　understand　why　it　is　that　he　cannot
get　perceptibly　closer；　and　he　begins　to　get　aggravated；　and　it　makes　him
madder　and　madder　to　see　how　gently　the　cayote　glides　along　and　never
pants　or　sweats　or　ceases　to　smile；　and　he　grows　still　more　and　more
incensed　to　see　how　shamefully　he　has　been　taken　in　by　an　entire
stranger；　and　what　an　ignoble　swindle　that　long；　calm；　soft…footed　trot
is；　and　next　he　notices　that　he　is　getting　fagged；　and　that　the　cayote
actually　has　to　slacken　speed　a　little　to　keep　from　running　away　from
himand　then　that　town…dog　is　mad　in　earnest；　and　he　begins　to　strain
and　weep　and　swear；　and　paw　the　sand　higher　than　ever；　and　reach　for　the
cayote　with　concentrated　and　desperate　energy。　　This　〃spurt〃　finds　him
six　feet　behind　the　gliding　enemy；　and　two　miles　from　his　friends。　　And
then；　in　the　instant　that　a　wild　new　hope　is　lighting　up　his　face；　the
cayote　turns　and　smiles　blandly　upon　him　once　more；　and　with　a　something
about