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The Life of Charlotte Bronte ´ Volume 1
by Elizabeth Claghorn Gaskell
CHAPTER I
The Leeds and Skipton railway runs along a deep valley of the Aire�察�a slow and sluggish stream�察�compared to the neighbouring river of Wharfe。 Keighley station is on this line of railway�察�about a quarter of a mile from the town of the same name。 The number of inhabitants and the importance of Keighley have been very greatly increased during the last twenty years�察�owing to the rapidly extended market for worsted manufactures�察�a branch of industry that mainly employs the factory population of this part of Yorkshire�察�which has Bradford for its centre and metropolis。
Keighley is in process of transformation from a populous�察�old´ fashioned village�察�into a still more populous and flourishing town。 It is evident to the stranger�察�that as the gable´ended houses�察�which obtrude themselves corner´wise on the widening street�察�fall vacant�察�they are pulled down to allow of greater space for traffic�察�and a more modern style of architecture。 The quaint and narrow shop´windows of fifty years ago�察�are giving way to large panes and plate´glass。 Nearly every dwelling seems devoted to some branch of commerce。 In passing hastily through the town�察�one hardly perceives where the necessary lawyer and doctor can live�察�so little appearance is there of any dwellings of the professional middle´class�察�such as abound in our old cathedral towns。 In fact�察�nothing can be more opposed than the state of society�察�the modes of thinking�察�the standards of reference on all points of morality�察�manners�察�and even politics and religion�察�in such a new manufacturing place as Keighley in the north�察�and any stately�察�sleepy�察�picturesque cathedral town in the south。 Yet the aspect of Keighley promises well for future stateliness�察�if not picturesqueness。 Grey stone abounds�察�and the rows of houses built of it have a kind of solid grandeur connected with their uniform and enduring lines。 The frame´work of the doors�察�and the lintels of the windows�察�even in the smallest dwellings�察�are made of blocks of stone。 There is no painted wood to require continual beautifying�察�or else present a shabby aspect�察�and the stone is kept scrupulously clean by the notable Yorkshire housewives。 Such glimpses into the interior as a passer´by obtains�察�reveal a rough abundance of the means of living�察�and diligent and active habits in the women。 But the voices of the people are hard�察�and their tones discordant�察�promising little of the musical taste that distinguishes the district�察�and which has already furnished a Carrodus to the musical world。 The names over the shops ��of which the one just given is a sample�� seem strange even to an inhabitant of the neighbouring county�察�and have a peculiar smack and flavour of the place。
The town of Keighley never quite melts into country on the road to Haworth�察�although the houses become more sparse as the traveller journeys upwards to the grey round hills that seem to bound his journey in a westerly direction。 First come some villas�察�just sufficiently retired from the road to show that they can scarcely belong to any one liable to be summoned in a hurry�察�at the call of suffering or danger�察�from his comfortable fire´side�察�the lawyer�察�the doctor�察�and the clergyman�察�live at hand�察�and hardly in the suburbs�察�with a screen of shrubs for concealment。
In a town one does not look for vivid colouring�察�what there may be of this is furnished by the wares in the shops�察�not by foliage or atmospheric effects�察�but in the country some brilliancy and vividness seems to be instinctively expected�察�and there is consequently a slight feeling of disappointment at the grey neutral tint of every object�察�near or far off�察�on the way from Keighley to Haworth。 The distance is about four miles�察�and�察�as I have said�察�what with villas�察�great worsted factories�察�rows of workmen's houses�察�with here and there an old´fashioned farmhouse and outbuildings�察�it can hardly be called ;country; any part of the way。 For two miles the road passes over tolerably level ground�察�distant hills on the left�察�a ;beck; flowing through meadows on the right�察�and furnishing water power�察�at certain points�察�to the factories built on its banks。 The air is dim and lightless with the smoke from all these habitations and places of business。 The soil in the valley ��or ;bottom�察─�to use the local term�� is rich�察�but�察�as the road begins to ascend�察�the vegetation becomes poorer�察�it does not flourish�察�it merely exists�察�and�察�instead of trees�察�there are only bushes and shrubs about the dwellings。 Stone dykes are everywhere used in place of hedges�察�and what crops there are�察�on the patches of arable land�察�consist of pale�察�hungry´looking�察�grey green oats。 Right before the traveller on this road rises Haworth village�察�he can see it for two miles before he arrives�察�for it is situated on the side of a pretty steep hill�察�with a back´ground of dun and purple moors�察�rising and sweeping away yet higher than the church�察�which is built at the very summit of the long narrow street。 All round the horizon there is this same line of sinuous wave´like hills�察�the scoops into which they fall only revealing other hills beyond�察�of similar colour and shape�察�crowned with wild�察�bleak moorsgrand�察�from the ideas of solitude and loneliness which they suggest�察�or oppressive from the feeling which they give of being pent´up by some monotonous and illimitable barrier�察�according to the mood of mind in which the spectator may be。
For a short distance the road appears to turn away from Haworth�察�as it winds round the base of the shoulder of a hill�察�but then it crosses a bridge over the ;beck�察─�and the ascent through the village begins。 The flag´stones with which it is paved are placed end´ways�察�in order to give a better hold to the horses' feet�察�and�察�even with this help�察�they seem to be in constant danger of slipping backwards。 The old stone houses are high compared to the width of the street�察�which makes an abrupt turn before reaching the more level ground at the head of the village�察�so that the steep aspect of the place�察�in one part�察�is almost like that of a wall。 But this surmounted�察�the church lies a little off the main road on the left�察�a hundred yards�察�or so�察�and the driver relaxes his care�察�and the horse breathes more easily�察�as they pass into the quite little by´street that leads to Haworth Parsonage。 The churchyard is on one side of this lane�察�the school´house and the sexton's dwelling ��where the curates formerly lodged�� on the other。
The parsonage stands at right angles to the road�察�facing down upon the church�察�so that�察�in fact�察�parsonage�察�church�察�and belfried school´house�察�form three sides of an irregular oblong�察�of which the fourth is open to the fields and moors that lie beyond。 The area of this oblong is filled up by a crowded churchyard�察�and a small garden or court in front of the clergyman's house。 As the entrance to this from the road is at the side�察�the path goes round the corner into the little plot of ground。 Underneath the windows is a narrow flower´border�察�carefully tended in days of yore�察�although only the most hardy plants could be made to grow there。 Within the stone wall�察�which keeps out the surrounding churchyard�察�are bushes of elder and lilac�察�the rest of the ground is occupied by a square grass´plot and a gravel walk。 The house is of grey stone�察�two stories high�察�heavily roofed with flags�察�in order to resist the winds that might strip off a lighter covering。 It appears to have been built about a hundred years ago�察�and to consist of four rooms on each story�察�the two windows on the right ��as the visitor stands with his back to the church�察�ready to enter in at the front door�� belonging to Mr。 Bronte's study�察�the two on the left to the family sitting´room。 Everything about the place tells of the most dainty order�察�the most exquisite cleanliness。 The door´steps are spotless�察�the small old´fashioned window´panes glitter like looking´glass。 Inside and outside of that house cleanliness goes up into its essence�察�purity。
The little church lies�察�as I mentioned�察�above most of the houses in the village�察�and the graveyard rises above the church�察�and is terribly full of upright tombstones。 The chapel or church claims greater antiquity than any other in that part of the kingdom�察�but there is no appearance of this in the external aspect of the present edifice�察�unless it be in the two eastern windows�察�which remain unmodernized�察�and in the lower part of the steeple。 Inside�察�the character of the pillars shows that they were constructed before the reign of Henry VII。 It is probable that there existed on this ground�察�a ;field´kirk�察─�or oratory�察�in the earliest times�察�and�察�from the Archbishop's registry at York�察�it is ascertained that there was a chapel at Haworth in 1317。 The inhabitants refer inquirers concerning the date to the following inscription on a stone in the church tower�此�
;Hic fecit Caenobium Monachorum Auteste fundator。 A。 D。 sexcentissimo。;
That is to say�察�before the preaching of Christianity in Northumbria。 Whitaker says that this mistake originated in the illiterate copying out�察�by some modern stone´cutter�察�of an inscription in the character of Henry the Eighth's time on an adjoining stone�此�
;Orate pro bono statu Eutest Tod。;
;Now every antiquary knows that the formula of prayer 'bono statu' always refers to the living。 I suspect this singular Christian name has been mistaken by the stone´cutter for Austet�察�a contraction of Eustatius�察�but the word Tod�察�which has been mis´ read for the Arabic figures 600�察�is perfectly fair and legible。 On the presumption of this foolish claim to antiquity�察�the people would needs set up for independence�察�and contest the right of the Vicar of Bradford to nominate a curate at Haworth。;
I have given this extract�察�in order to explain the imaginary groundwork of a commotion which took place in Haworth about five and thirty years ago�察�to which I shall have occasion to allude again more particularly。
The interior of the church is commonplace�察�it is neither old enough nor modern enough to compel notice。 The pews are of black oak�察�with high divisions�察�and the names of those to whom they belong are painted in white letters on the doors。 There are neither brasses�察�nor altar´tombs�察�nor monuments�察�but there is a mural tablet on the right´hand side of the communion´table�察�bearing the following inscription�此�
HERE LIE THE REMAINS OF MARIA BRONTE�察�WIFE OF THE REV。 P。 BRONTE�察�A。B。�察�MINISTER OP HAWORTH。 HER SOUL DEPARTED TO THE SAVIOUR�察�SEPT。 15TH�察�1821�察�IN THE 39TH YEAR OF HER AGE。
;Be ye also ready�此 �for in such an hour as ye think not the Son of Man cometh。; MATTHEW xxiv。 44。
ALSO HERE LIE THE REMAINS OF MARIA BRONTE�察�DAUGHTER OF THE AFORESAID�察�SHE DIED ON THE 6TH OF MAY�察�1825�察�IN THE 12TH YEAR OF HER AGE�察�AND OF ELIZABETH BRONTE�察�HER SISTER�察�WHO DIED JUNE 15TH�察�1825�察�IN THE 11TH YEAR OF HER AGE。
;Verily I say unto you�察�Except ye be converted�察�and become as little children�察�ye shall not enter into the kingdom of heaven。; MATTHEW xviii。 3。
HERE ALSO LIE THE REMAINS OF PATRICK BRANWELL BRONTE�察�WHO DIED SEPT。 24TH�察�1848�察�AGED 3O YEARS�察�AND OF EMILY JANE BRONTE�察�WHO DIED DEC。 19TH�察�1848�察�AGED 29 YEARS�察�SON AND DAUGHTER OF THE REV。 P。 BRONTE�察�INCUMBENT。