a journey to-第8章

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As　mountains　are　long　before　they　are　conquered；　they　are　likewise
long　before　they　are　civilized。　　Men　are　softened　by　intercourse
mutually　profitable；　and　instructed　by　comparing　their　own　notions
with　those　of　others。　　Thus　Caesar　found　the　maritime　parts　of
Britain　made　less　barbarous　by　their　commerce　with　the　Gauls。　　Into
a　barren　and　rough　tract　no　stranger　is　brought　either　by　the　hope
of　gain　or　of　pleasure。　　The　inhabitants　having　neither　commodities
for　sale；　nor　money　for　purchase；　seldom　visit　more　polished
places；　or　if　they　do　visit　them；　seldom　return。

It　sometimes　happens　that　by　conquest；　intermixture；　or　gradual
refinement；　the　cultivated　parts　of　a　country　change　their
language。　　The　mountaineers　then　become　a　distinct　nation；　cut　off
by　dissimilitude　of　speech　from　conversation　with　their　neighbours。
Thus　in　Biscay；　the　original　Cantabrian；　and　in　Dalecarlia；　the　old
Swedish　still　subsists。　　Thus　Wales　and　the　Highlands　speak　the
tongue　of　the　first　inhabitants　of　Britain；　while　the　other　parts
have　received　first　the　Saxon；　and　in　some　degree　afterwards　the
French；　and　then　formed　a　third　language　between　them。

That　the　primitive　manners　are　continued　where　the　primitive
language　is　spoken；　no　nation　will　desire　me　to　suppose；　for　the
manners　of　mountaineers　are　commonly　savage；　but　they　are　rather
produced　by　their　situation　than　derived　from　their　ancestors。

Such　seems　to　be　the　disposition　of　man；　that　whatever　makes　a
distinction　produces　rivalry。　　England；　before　other　causes　of
enmity　were　found；　was　disturbed　for　some　centuries　by　the　contests
of　the　northern　and　southern　counties；　so　that　at　Oxford；　the　peace
of　study　could　for　a　long　time　be　preserved　only　by　chusing
annually　one　of　the　Proctors　from　each　side　of　the　Trent。　　A　tract
intersected　by　many　ridges　of　mountains；　naturally　divides　its
inhabitants　into　petty　nations；　which　are　made　by　a　thousand　causes
enemies　to　each　other。　　Each　will　exalt　its　own　chiefs；　each　will
boast　the　valour　of　its　men；　or　the　beauty　of　its　women；　and　every
claim　of　superiority　irritates　competition；　injuries　will　sometimes
be　done；　and　be　more　injuriously　defended；　retaliation　will
sometimes　be　attempted；　and　the　debt　exacted　with　too　much
interest。

In　the　Highlands　it　was　a　law；　that　if　a　robber　was　sheltered　from
justice；　any　man　of　the　same　clan　might　be　taken　in　his　place。
This　was　a　kind　of　irregular　justice；　which；　though　necessary　in
savage　times；　could　hardly　fail　to　end　in　a　feud；　and　a　feud　once
kindled　among　an　idle　people　with　no　variety　of　pursuits　to　divert
their　thoughts；　burnt　on　for　ages　either　sullenly　glowing　in　secret
mischief；　or　openly　blazing　into　public　violence。　　Of　the　effects
of　this　violent　judicature；　there　are　not　wanting　memorials。　　The
cave　is　now　to　be　seen　to　which　one　of　the　Campbells；　who　had
injured　the　Macdonalds；　retired　with　a　body　of　his　own　clan。　　The
Macdonalds　required　the　offender；　and　being　refused；　made　a　fire　at
the　mouth　of　the　cave；　by　which　he　and　his　adherents　were
suffocated　together。

Mountaineers　are　warlike；　because　by　their　feuds　and　competitions
they　consider　themselves　as　surrounded　with　enemies；　and　are　always
prepared　to　repel　incursions；　or　to　make　them。　　Like　the　Greeks　in
their　unpolished　state；　described　by　Thucydides；　the　Highlanders；
till　lately；　went　always　armed；　and　carried　their　weapons　to
visits；　and　to　church。

Mountaineers　are　thievish；　because　they　are　poor；　and　having
neither　manufactures　nor　commerce；　can　grow　richer　only　by　robbery。
They　regularly　plunder　their　neighbours；　for　their　neighbours　are
commonly　their　enemies；　and　having　lost　that　reverence　for
property；　by　which　the　order　of　civil　life　is　preserved；　soon
consider　all　as　enemies；　whom　they　do　not　reckon　as　friends；　and
think　themselves　licensed　to　invade　whatever　they　are　not　obliged
to　protect。

By　a　strict　administration　of　the　laws；　since　the　laws　have　been
introduced　into　the　Highlands；　this　disposition　to　thievery　is　very
much　represt。　　Thirty　years　ago　no　herd　had　ever　been　conducted
through　the　mountains；　without　paying　tribute　in　the　night；　to　some
of　the　clans；　but　cattle　are　now　driven；　and　passengers　travel
without　danger；　fear；　or　molestation。

Among　a　warlike　people；　the　quality　of　highest　esteem　is　personal
courage；　and　with　the　ostentatious　display　of　courage　are　closely
connected　promptitude　of　offence　and　quickness　of　resentment。　　The
Highlanders；　before　they　were　disarmed；　were　so　addicted　to
quarrels；　that　the　boys　used　to　follow　any　publick　procession　or
ceremony；　however　festive；　or　however　solemn；　in　expectation　of　the
battle；　which　was　sure　to　happen　before　the　company　dispersed。

Mountainous　regions　are　sometimes　so　remote　from　the　seat　of
government；　and　so　difficult　of　access；　that　they　are　very　little
under　the　influence　of　the　sovereign；　or　within　the　reach　of
national　justice。　　Law　is　nothing　without　power；　and　the　sentence
of　a　distant　court　could　not　be　easily　executed；　nor　perhaps　very
safely　promulgated；　among　men　ignorantly　proud　and　habitually
violent；　unconnected　with　the　general　system；　and　accustomed　to
reverence　only　their　own　lords。　　It　has　therefore　been　necessary　to
erect　many　particular　jurisdictions；　and　commit　the　punishment　of
crimes；　and　the　decision　of　right　to　the　proprietors　of　the　country
who　could　enforce　their　own　decrees。　　It　immediately　appears　that
such　judges　will　be　often　ignorant；　and　often　partial；　but　in　the
immaturity　of　political　establishments　no　better　expedient　could　be
found。　　As　government　advances　towards　perfection；　provincial
judicature　is　perhaps　in　every　empire　gradually　abolished。

Those　who　had　thus　the　dispensation　of　law；　were　by　consequence
themselves　lawless。　　Their　vassals　had　no　shelter　from　outrages　and
oppressions；　but　were　condemned　to　endure；　without　resistance；　the
caprices　of　wantonness；　and　the　rage　of　cruelty。

In　the　Highlands；　some　great　lords　had　an　hereditary　jurisdiction
over　counties；　and　some　chieftains　over　their　own　lands；　till　the
final　conquest　of　the　Highlands　afforded　an　opportunity　of　crushing
all　the　local　courts；　and　of　extending　the　general　benefits　of
equal　law　to　the　low　and　the　high；　in　the　deepest　recesses　and
obscurest　corners。

While　the　chiefs　had　this　resemblance　of　royalty；　they　had　little
inclination　to　appeal；　on　any　question；　to　superior　judicatures。　　A
claim　of　lands　between　two　powerful　lairds　was　decided　like　a
contest　for　dominion　between　sovereign　powers。　　They　drew　their
forces　into　the　field；　and　right　attended　on　the　strongest。　　This
was；　in　ruder　times；　the　common　practice；　which　the　kings　of
Scotland　could　seldom　control。

Even　so　lately　as　in　the　last　years　of　King　William；　a　battle　was
fought　at　Mull　Roy；　on　a　plain　a　few　miles　to　the　south　of
Inverness；　between　the　clans　of　Mackintosh　and　Macdonald　of
Keppoch。　　Col。　　Macdonald；　the　head　of　a　small　clan；　refused　to　pay
the　dues　demanded　from　him　by　Mackintosh；　as　his　superior　lord。
They　disdained　the　interposition　of　judges　and　laws；　and　calling
each　his　followers　to　maintain　the　dignity　of　the　clan；　fought　a
formal　battle；　in　which　several　considerable　men　fell　on　the　side
of　Mackintosh；　without　a　complete　victory　to　either。　　This　is　said
to　have　been　the　last　open　war　made　between　the　clans　by　their　own
authority。

The　Highland　lords　made　treaties；　and　formed　alliances；　of　which
some　traces　may　still　be　found；　and　some　consequences　still　remain
as　lasting　evidences　of　petty　regality。　　The　terms　of　one　of　these
confederacies　were；　that　each　should　support　the　other　in　the
right；　or　in　the　wrong；　except　against　the　king。

The　inhabitants　of　mountains　form　distinct　races；　and　are　careful
to　preserve　their　genealogies。　　Men　in　a　small　district　necessarily
mingle　blood　by　intermarriages；　and　combine　at　last　into　one
family；　with　a　common　interest　in　the　honour　and　disgrace　of　every
individual。　　Then　begins　that　union　of　affections；　and　co…operation
of　endeavours；　that　constitute　a　clan。　　They　who　consider
themselves　as　ennobled　by　their　family；　will　think　highly　of　their
progenitors；　and　they　who　through　successive　generations　live
always　together　in　the　same　place；　will　preserve　local　stories　and
hereditary　prejudices。　　Thus　every　Highlander　can　talk　of　his
ancestors；　and　recount　the　outrages　which　they　suffered　from　the
wicked　inhabitants　of　the　next　valley。

Such　are　the　effects　of　habitation　among　mountains；　and　such　were
the　qualities　of　the　Highlanders；　while　their　rocks　secluded　them
from　the　rest　of　mankind；　and　kept　them　an　unaltered　and
discriminated　race。　　They　are　now　losing　their　distinction；　and
hastening　to　mingle　with　the　general　community。



GLENELG



We　left　Auknasheals　and　the　Macraes　its　the　afternoon；　and　in　the
evening　came　to　Ratiken；　a　high　hill　on　which　a　road　is　cut；　but　so
steep　and　narrow；　that　it　is　very　difficult。　　There　is　now　a　design
of　making　another　way　round　the　bottom。　　Upon　one　of　the
precipices；　my　horse；　weary　with　the　steepness　of　the　rise；
staggered　a　little；　and　I　called　in　haste　to　the　Highlander　to　hold
him。　　This　was　the　only　moment　of　my　journey；　in　which　I　thought
myself　endangered。

Having　surmounted　the　hill　at　last；　we　were　told　that　at　Glenelg；
on　the　sea…side；　we　should　come　to　a　house　of　lime　and　slate　and
glass。　　This　image　of　magnificence　raised　our　expectation。　　At　last
we　came　to　our　inn　weary　and　peevish；　and　began　to　inquire　for　meat
and　beds。

Of　the　provisions　the　negative　catalogue　was　very　copious。　　Here
was　no　meat；　no　milk；　no　bread；　no　eggs；　no　wine。　　We　did　not
express　much　satisfaction。　　Here　however　we　were　to　stay。　　Whisky
we　might　have；　and　I　believe　at　last　they　caught　a　fowl　and　killed
it。　　We　had　some　bread；　and　with　that　we　prepared　ourselves　to　be
contented；　when　we　had　a　very　eminent　proof　of　Highland
hospitality。　　Along　some　miles　of　the　way；　in　the　evening；　a
gentleman's　servant　had　kept　us　company　on　foot　with　very　little
notice　on　our　part。　　He　left　us　near　Glenelg；　and　we　thought　on　him
no　more　till　he　came　to　us　again；　in　about　two　hours；　with　a
present　from　his　master　of　rum　and　sugar。　　The　man　had　mentioned
his　company；　and　the　gentleman；　whose　name；　I　think；　is　Gordon；
well　knowing　the　penury　of　the　place；　had　this　attention　to　two
men；　whose　names　perhaps　he　had　not　heard；　by　whom　his　kindness　was
not　likely　to　be　ever　repaid；　and　who　could　be　recommended　to　him
only　by　their　necessities。

We　were　now　to　examine　our　lodging。　　Out　of　one　of　the　beds；　on
which　we　were　to　repose；　started　up；　at　our　entrance；　a　man　black
as　a　Cyclops　from　the　forge。　　Other　circumstances　of　no　elegant
recital　concurred　to　disgust　us。　　We　had　been　frighted　by　a　lady　at
Edinburgh；　with　discouraging　representations　of　Highland　lodgings。
Sleep；　however；　was　necessary。　　Our　Highlanders　had　at　last　found
some　hay；　with　which　the　inn　could　not　supply　them。　　I　directed
them　to　bring　a　bundle　into　the　room；　and　slept　upon　it　in　my
riding　coat。　　Mr。　Boswell　being　more　delicate；　laid　himself　sheets
with　hay　over　and　under　him；　and　lay　in　linen　like　a　gentleman。



SKY。　　ARMIDEL



In　the　morning；　S