voyage of the paper canoe-第40章

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〃She's　the　dog…gonedest　thing　I　ever　seed；　and　jist　as　putty　as　a　new　coffin！〃　exclaimed　one。

〃Indeed；　she's　the　handsomest　trick　I　ever　did　blink　on；〃　said　the　second。

The　two　stalwart　lumbermen　lifted　the　boat　as　though　she　were　but　a　feather；　and　carried　her；　jumping　from　log　to　log；　the　whole　length　of　the　raft。　　They　then　put　her　gently　in　the　water；　and　added　to　their　farewell　the　cheering　intelligence　that　〃there's　no　more　jams　nor　rafts　'twixt　here　and　the　sea；　and　you　can　go　clar　on　to　New　York　if　you　like。〃

Trader's　Hill；　on　a　very　high　bluff　on　the　left　bank；　was　soon　passed；　when　the　current　seemed　suddenly　to　cease；　and　I　felt　the　first　tidal　effect　of　the　sea；　though　many　miles　from　the　coast。　The　tide　was　flooding。　　I　now　laid　aside　the　paddle；　and　putting　the　light　steel　outriggers　in　their　sockets；　rapidly　rowed　down　the　now　broad　river　until　the　shadows　of　night　fell　upon　forest　and　stream；　when　the　comfortable　residence　of　Mr。　Lewis　Davis；　with　his　steam　saw…mill；　came　into　sight　upon　Orange　Bluff；　on　the　Florida　side　of　the　river。　　Here　a　kind　welcome　greeted　me　from　host　and　hostess；　who　had　dwelt　twenty　years　in　this　romantic　but　secluded　spot。　There　were　orange…trees　forty　years　old　on　this　　property；　and　all　in　fine　bearing　order。　　There　was　also　a　fine　sulphur　spring　near　the　house。

Mr。　Davis　stated　that；　during　a　residence　of　twenty　years　in　this　charming　locality；　he　had　experienced　but　one　attack　of　chills。　　He　　considered　the　St。　Mary's　River；　on　account　of　the　purity　of　its　waters；　one　of　the　healthiest　of　southern　streams。　　The　descent　of　this　beautiful　river　now　became　a　holiday　pastime。　　Though　there　were　but　few　signs　of　the　existence　of　man；　the　scenery　was　of　a　cheering　character。　A　brick…kiln；　a　few　saw…mills；　and　an　abandoned　rice…plantation　were　passed；　while　the　low　　saltmarshes；　extending　into　the　river　from　the　forest…covered　upland；　gave　evidence　of　the　proximity　to　the　sea。　Large　alligators　were　frequently　seen　sunning　themselves　upon　the　edges　of　the　banks。

At　dusk　the　town　of　St。　Mary's；　in　its　wealth　of　foliage；　opened　to　my　view　from　across　the　lowlands；　and　soon　after　the　paper　canoe　was　carefully　stored　in　a　building　belonging　to　one　of　its　hospitable　citizens；　while　local　authority　asserted　that　I　had　traversed　one　hundred　and　seventy…five　miles　of　the　river。

One　evening；　while　enjoying　the　hospitality　of　Mr。　Silas　Fordam；　at　his　beautiful　winter　home；　〃Orange　Hall；〃　situated　in　the　heart　of　St。　Mary's；　a　note；　signed　by　the　Hon。　J。　M。　　Arnow；　mayor　of　the　city；　was　handed　me。　　Mr。　Arnow；　in　the　name　of　the　city　government；　　invited　my　presence　at　the　Spencer　House。　　Upon　arriving　at　the　hotel；　a　surprise　awaited　me。　The　citizens　of　the　place　had　gathered　to　　welcome　the　paper　canoe　and　its　owner；　and　to　express　the　kindly　feelings　they；　as　southern　　citizens；　held　towards　their　northern　friends。　　The　hotel　was　decorated　with　flags　and　floral　　emblems；　one　of　which　expressed；　in　its　ingeniously　constructed　words；　wrought　in　flowers；　〃One　hundred　thousand　Welcomes。〃

The　mayor　and　his　friends　received　me　upon　the　veranda　of　the　hotel　with　kind　words　of　welcome。　　Bright　lights　glimmered　at　this　　moment　through　the　long　avenue　of　trees；　and　music　arose　upon　the　night　air。　　It　was　a　　torchlight　procession　coming　from　the　river；　bearing　upon　a　framework　structure；　from　which　hung　Chinese　lanterns　and　wreaths　of　laurel；　the　little　paper　canoe。　　The　Base…ball　Club　of　the　city；　dressed　in　their　handsome　uniform；　carried　the　〃Maria　Theresa；〃　while　the　sailors　from　the　lumber　fleet　in　the　river；　with　the　flags　of　several　nationalities；　brought　up　the　rear。

When　the　procession　arrived　in　front　of　the　hotel；　three　hearty　cheers　were　given　by　the　people；　and　the　mayor　read　the　city's　address　of　welcome　to　me；　to　which　I　made　reply；　not　only　in　behalf　of　myself；　but　of　all　those　of　my　　countrymen　who　desired　the　establishment　of　a　pure　and　good　government　in　every　portion　of　our　dear　land。

Mayor　Arnow　presented　me　with　an　engrossed　copy　of　his　speech　of　welcome；　in　which　he　　invited　all　industrious　northerners　to　come　to　his　native　city；　promising　that　city　ordinances　should　be　passed　to　encourage　the　erection　of　　manufactories；　&c。；　by　northern　capital　and　northern　labor。　　After　the　address；　the　wife　of　the　mayor　presented　me　with　two　memorial　banners；　in　the　name　of　the　ladies　of　the　city。　　These　were　made　for　the　occasion；　and　being　the　handiwork　of　the　ladies　themselves；　were　highly　appreciated　by　the　recipient。　　When　these　graceful　tributes　had　been　received；　each　lady　and　child　present　　deposited　a　bouquet　of　flowers；　grown　in　the　gardens　of　St。　Mary's；　in　my　little　craft；　till　it　contained　about　four　hundred　of　these　refined　expressions　of　the　good…will　of　these　kind　people。　　Not　only　did　the　native　population　of　the　town　vie　with　each　other　to　accord　the　lonely　voyager　a　true　southern　welcome；　but　Mr。　A。　Curtis；　an　English　gentleman；　who；　becoming　fascinated　with　the　fine　climate　of　this　part　of　Georgia；　had　settled　here；　did　all　he　could　to　show　his　appreciation　of　canoe…travelling；　and　superintended　the　　marine　display　and　flag　corps　of　the　procession。

I　left　St。　Mary's　with　a　strange　longing　to　　return　to　its　interesting　environs；　and　to　study　here　the　climatology　of　southern　Georgia；　for；　strange　to　say；　cases　of　local　〃fever　and　chills〃　have　never　originated　in　the　city。　　It　is　reached　from　Savannah　by　the　inside　steamboat　route；　or　by　rail；　to　Fernandina；　with　which　it　is　connected　by　a　steamboat　ferry　eight　miles　in　length。　　Speculation　not　having　yet　affected　the　low　valuation　placed　upon　property　around　St。　Mary's；　northern　men　can　obtain　winter　homes　in　this　attractive　town　at　a　very　low　cost。　　This　city　is　a　port　of　entry。　　Mr。　Joseph　Shepard；　a　most　faithful　government　officer；　has　filled　the　position　of　collector　of　customs　for　several　years。

As　vessels　of　considerable　tonnage　can　ascend　the　St。　Mary's　River　from　the　sea　on　a　full　tide　to　the　wharves　of　the　city；　its　citizens　prophesy　a　future　growth　and　development　for　the　place　when　a　river　and　canal　route　across　the　　peninsula　between　the　Atlantic　Ocean　and　the　Gulf　of　Mexico　shall　have　been　completed。　　For　many　years　Colonel　Raiford　has　been　elaborating　his　plan　〃for　elongating　the　western　and　southern　inland　system　of　navigation　to　harbors　of　the　　Atlantic　Ocean。〃　　He　proposes　to　unite　the　natural　watercourses　of　the　coast　of　the　Gulf　of　Mexico　by　short　canals；　so　that　barges　drawing　seven　feet　of　water；　and　freighted　with　the　produce　of　the　Mississippi　River　and　its　tributaries；　may　pass　from　New　Orleans　eastward　to　the　southern　ports　of　the　Atlantic　States。　　The　great　peninsula　of　Florida　would　be　crossed　by　these　vessels　from　the　Suwanee　to　the　St。　Mary's　River　by　means　of　a　canal　cut　through　the　Okefenokee　Swamp；　and　this　route　would　save　several　hundred　miles　of　navigation　upon　open　ocean　waters。　　The　dangerous　coral　reefs　of　the　Florida　and　Bahama　shores　would　be　avoided；　and　a　land…locked　channel　of　thirty　thousand　miles　of　navigable　watercourses　would　be　united　in　one　system。

Lieutenant…Colonel　Q。　A。　Gilmore's　report　on　〃Water　Line　for　Transportation　from　the　Mouth　of　the　St。　Mary's　River；　on　the　Atlantic　Coast；　through　Okefenokee　Swamp　and　the　State　of　Florida　to　the　Gulf　of　Mexico；〃　in　which　the　able　inquirer　discusses　this　water　route；　has　　recently　been　published。　　I　traversed　a　portion　of　this　route　in　1875…6；　from　the　head　of　the　Ohio　River　to　New　Orleans；　and　along　the　shores　of　the　Gulf　of　Mexico　to　Cedar　Keys；　in　a　cedar　duck…boat；　and　as　the　results　of　my　observations　may　some　day　be　made　public；　I　will　at　this　time　refer　the　reader；　if　he　be　interested　in　the　important　enterprise；　to　the　Congressional　reports　which　describe　the　feasibility　of　the　plan。

Another　portage　by　rail　was　made　in　order　to　complete　my　journey　to　the　Gulf　of　Mexico；　and　Rixford；　near　the　Suwanee　River；　was　reached　via　the　A。　G。　&　W。　I。　T。　C。　Railroad　to　Baldwin；　thence　over　the　J。　P。　&　M。　Railroad　to　Live　Oak；　where　another　railroad　from　the　north　connects；　and　along　which；　a　few　miles　from　Live　Oak；　Messrs。　Dutton　&　Rixford　had　recently　　established　their　turpentine　and　resin　works。

At　Rixford　I　found　myself　near　the　summit；　or　backbone　of　Florida；　from　which　the　tributaries　of　the　water…shed　flow　on　one　side　to　the　　Atlantic　Ocean；　and　on　the　other　to　the　Gulf　of　Mexico。　It　was　a　high　region　of　rolling　country；　heavily　wooded　with　magnificent　pine　forests；　rich　in　terebinthine　resources。　　The　residence　of　the　proprietor；　the　store　and　the　distillery；　with　a　few　log　cabins　inhabited　by　negroes　and　white　　employees；　made　up　the　establishment　of　Rixford。

The　Crackers　and　negroes　came　from　long　distances　to　see　the　paper　boat。　　One　afternoon；　when　a　number　of　people　had　gathered　at　　Rixford　to　behold　the　little　craft；　I　placed　it　on　one　of　those　curious　sheets　of　water　of　crystal　purity　called　in　that　region　a　sink；　and　though　this　nameless；　mirror…like　lakelet　did　not　cover　over　an　acre　in　extent；　the　movements　of　the　little　craft；　when　propelled　by　the　double　paddle；　　excited　an　enthusiasm　which　is　seldom　exhibited　by　the　piny…woods　people。

As　the　boat　was　carefully　lifted　from　the　　silvery　tarn；　one　woman　called　out　in　a　loud　voice；　〃Lake　Theresa！〃　and　thus；　by　mutual　consent　of　every　one　present；　did　this　lakelet　of　crystal　waters　receive　its　name。

The　blacks　crowded　around　the　canoe；　and　while　feeling　its　firm　texture；　and　wondering　at　the　long　distance　it　had　traversed；　expressed　themselves　in　their　peculiar　and　original　way。　One　of　their　number；　known　as　a　〃tonguey　　nigger；〃　volunteered　to　explain　the　wonder　to　the　somewhat　confused　intellects　of　his　companions。　To　a　question　from　one　negro　as　to　〃How　did　dis　yere　Yankee…man　cum　all　dis　fur　way　in　de　paper　canoe；　all　hissef　lone？〃　the　　〃educated〃　negro　replied：　〃It's　all　de　Lord。　　No　man　ken　cum　so　fur　in　paper　boat　ef　de　Lord　didn't　help　him。　De　Lord　does　eberyting。　He　puts　de　tings　in　de　Yankee…man's　heads　to　du　um；　an'　dey　duz　um。　　Dar　was　de　big　Franklin　up　norf；　dat　made　de　telegraf。　Did　ye　eber　bar　tell　ob　him？〃

〃Neber；　neber！〃　responded　all　the　negroes。

Then；　with　a　look　of　supreme　contempt　for　the　ignorance　of　his　audience；　the　orator　　proceeded：　〃Dis　great　Franklin；　Cap'n　Franklin；　he　tort　he'd　kotch　de　litening　and　make　de　　telegraf；　so　he　flies　a　big　kite　way　up　to　de　heabens；　an'　he　puts　de　string　in　de　bottle　dat　hab　nufing　in　it。　Den　he　holds　de　bottle　in　one　hand；　an'　he　holds　de　cork　in　de　udder　hand。　　Down　cums　de　litening　and　fills　de　bottle　full　up；　and　Cap'n　Franklin　he　dun　cork　him　up　mighty　quick；　and　kotched　de　litening　an'　made　de　telegraf。　　But　it　was　de　Lord　　de　Lord；　not　Cap'n　　Franklin　dat　did　all　dis。〃

It　was　amusing　to　watch　the　varied　expression　of　the　negroes；　as　they　listened　to　this　description　of　the　discovery　of　electricity；　and　the　origin　of　the　telegraph。　　Their　eyes　dilated　with　wonder；　and　their　thick　lips　parted　till　the　mouth；　　growing　wider　and　wider；　seemed　to　cover　more　than　its　share　of　the　face。　The　momentary　silence　was　soon　broken　by　a　deep　gurgle　proceeding　from　a　stolid…looking　negro；　as　he　exclaimed：　〃Did　he　kotch　de　bottle　full　ob　litening；　and　cork　him　up。　　Golly！　I　tort　he　w