voyage of the paper canoe-第4章

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　　The　water　would　rise　along…shore　on　the　flood　three　hours　before　the　downward　current　was　checked　in　the　channel　of　the　river。　　We　could　not　place　any　　dependence　in　the　regularity　of　the　tides；　as　strong　winds　and　freshets　in　the　tributaries　influence　them。　　Earlier　in　the　season；　as　a　writer　　remarks；　〃until　the　upland　waters　have　all　run　down；　and　the　great　rivers　have　discharged　the　freshets　caused　by　thawing　of　the　snows　in　the　spring　of　the　year；　this　current；　in　spite　of　tides；　will　always　run　down。〃　To　the　uninitiated　the　spectacle　is　a　curious　one；　of　the　flood　tide　rising　and　swelling　the　waters　of　a　great　river　some　eight　to　ten　feet；　while　the　current　at　the　surface　is　rapidly　descending　the　course　of　the　stream。

Finding　that　the　wind　usually　rose　and　fell　with　the　sun；　we　now　made　it　a　rule　to　anchor　our　boat　during　most　of　the　day　and　pull　against　the　current　at　night。　　The　moon　and　the　bright　auroral　lights　made　this　task　an　agreeable　one。　Then；　too；　we　had　Coggia's　comet　speeding　through　the　northern　heavens；　awakening　many　an　odd　conjecture　in　the　mind　of　my　old　salt。

In　this　high　latitude　day　dawned　before　three　o'clock；　and　the　twilight　lingered　so　long　that　we　could　read　the　fine　print　of　a　newspaper　without　effort　at　a　quarter　to　nine　o'clock　P。　M。　The　lofty　shores　that　surrounded　us　at　Quebec　gradually　decreased　in　elevation；　and　the　tides　affected　the　river　less　and　less　as　we　approached　Three　Rivers；　where　they　seemed　to　cease　　altogether。　　We　reached　the　great　lumber　station　of　Three　Rivers；　which　is　located　on　the　left　bank　of　the　St。　Lawrence；　on　Friday　evening；　and　moved　our　canoe　into　quiet　waters　near　the　entrance　of　Lake　of　St。　Peter。　　Rain　squalls　kept　us　close　under　our　hatch…cloth　till　eleven　o'clock　A。　M。　on　Saturday；　when；　the　wind　being　fair；　we　determined　to　make　an　attempt　to　reach　Sorel；　which　would　afford　us　a　pleasant　　camping…ground　for　Sunday。

Lake　of　St。　Peter　is　a　shoal　sheet　of　water　twenty…two　miles　long　and　nearly　eight　miles　wide；　a　bad　place　to　cross　in　a　small　boat　in　windy　weather。　　We　set　our　sail　and　sped　　merrily　on；　but　the　tempest　pressed　us　sorely；　　compelling　us　to　take　in　our　sail　and　scud　under　bare　poles　until　one　o'clock；　when　we　　double…reefed　and　set　the　sail。　　We　now　flew　over　the　short　and　swashy　seas　as　blast　after　blast　struck　our　little　craft。　At　three　o'clock　the　wind　　slackened；　permitting　us　to　shake　out　our　reefs　and　crowd　on　all　sail。　　A　labyrinth　of　islands　closed　the　lake　at　its　western　end；　and　we　looked　with　anxiety　to　find　among　them　an　opening　through　which　we　might　pass　into　the　river　St。　　Lawrence　again。　　At　five　o'clock　the　wind　veered　to　the　north；　with　squalls　increasing　in　intensity。　We　steered　for　a　low；　grassy　island；　which　seemed　to　separate　us　from　the　river。　The　wind　was　not　free　enough　to　permit　us　to　weather　it；　so　we　decided　to　beach　the　boat　and　escape　the　furious　tempest。　But　when　we　struck　the　marshy　island　we　kept　moving　on　through　the　rushes　that　covered　it；　and　fairly　sailed　over　its　　submerged　soil　into　the　broad　water　on　the　other　side。　　Bodfish　earnestly　advised　the　propriety　of　anchoring　here　for　the　night；　saying；　〃It　is　too　rough　to　go　on；〃　but　the　temptation　held　out　by　the　proximity　to　Sorel　determined　me　to　take　the　risk　and　drive　on。　　Again　we　bounded　out　upon　rough　water；　with　the　screeching　　tempest　upon　us。　　David　took　the　tiller；　while　I　sat　upon　the　weather…rail　to　steady　the　boat。　　The　Mayeta　was　now　to　be　put　to　a　severe　test；　she　was　to　cross　seas　that　could　easily　trip　a　boat　of　her　size；　but　the　wooden　canoe　was　worthy　of　her　builder；　and　flew　like　an　affrighted　bird　over　the　foaming　waves　across　the　broad　water；　to　the　shelter　of　a　wooded；　half　submerged　island；　out　of　which　rose；　on　piles；　a　little　light…house。　Under　this　lee　we　crept　along　in　safety。　　The　sail　was　furled；　never　to　be　used　in　storm　again。　The　wind　went　down　with　the　sinking　sun；　and　a　delightful　calm　favored　us　for　our　row　up　the　narrowing　river；　eight　miles　to　the　place　of　　destination。

Soon　after　nine　o'clock　we　came　upon　the　Acadian　town；　Sorel；　with　its　bright　lights　　cheerily　flashing　out　upon　us　as　we　rowed　past　its　river　front。　　The　prow　of　our　canoe　was　now　pointed　southward　toward　the　goal　of　our　　ambition；　the　great　Mexican　Gulf；　and　we　were　about　to　ascend　that　historic　stream；　the　lovely　　Richelieu；　upon　whose　gentle　current；　two　hundred　and　sixty…six　years　before；　Champlain　had　　ascended　to　the　noble　lake　which　bears　his　name；　and　up　which　the　missionary　Jogues　had　been　carried　an　unwilling　captive　to　bondage　and　to　torture。

We　ascended　the　Richelieu；　threading　our　way　among　steam…tugs；　canal…boats；　and　rafts；　to　a　fringe　of　rushes　growing　out　of　a　shallow　flat　on　the　left　bank　of　the　river；　just　above　the　town。　　There；　firmly　staking　the　Mayeta　upon　her　soft　bed　of　mud；　secure　from　danger；　we　enjoyed　a　peaceful　rest　through　the　calm　night　which　followed；　and　thus　ended　the　rough　passage　of　one　week's　duration　　from　Quebec　to　Sorel。




CHAPTER　III。　　FROM　THE　ST。　LAWRENCE　RIVER　TO　TICONDEROGA；　LAKE　CHAMPLAIN。



THE　RICHELIEU　RIVER。　　ACADIAN　SCENES。　…　ST。　OURS。　ST。　ANTOINE。　　ST。　MARKS。　　BELCEIL。　　CHAMELY　CANAL。　　ST。　JOHNS。　　LAKE　CHAMPLAIN。　　　THE　GREAT　SHIP…CANAL。　　DAVID　BODFISH　'S　CAMP。　　THE　　ADIRONDACK　SURVEY。　　A　CANVAS　BOAT。　　DIMENSIONS　OF　LAKE　CHAMPLAIN。　　PORT　KENT。　　AUSABLE　CHASM。　　ARRIVAL　AT　TICONDEROGA。


Quebec　was　founded　by　Champlain；　July　3；　1680。　　During　his　first　warlike　expedition　into　the　land　of　the　Iroquois　the　following　year；　escorted　by　Algonquin　and　Montagnais　Indian　allies；　he　ascended　a　river　to　which　was　　afterwards　given　the　name　of　Cardinal　Richelieu；　prime　minister　of　Louis　XIII。　of　France。　　This　stream；　which　is　about　eighty　miles　long；　　connects　the　lake　（which　Champlain　discovered　and　named　after　himself）　with　the　St。　Lawrence　River　at　a　point　one　hundred　and　forty　miles　above　Quebec；　and　forty　miles　below　Montreal。　The　waters　of　lakes　George　and　Champlain　flow　northward；　through　the　Richelieu　River　into　the　St。　Lawrence。　　The　former　stream　flows　through　a　cultivated　country；　and　upon　its　banks；　after　leaving　Sorel；　are　situate　the　little　towns　of　St。　Ours；　St。　Rock；　St。　Denis；　St。　Antoine；　St。　Marks；　Beloeil；　Chambly；　and　St。　Johns。　　Small　steamers；　tug…boats；　and　rafts　pass　from　the　St。　Lawrence　to　Lake　Champlain　（which　lies　almost　wholly　within　the　United　States）；　following　the　Richelieu　to　Chambly；　where　it　is　necessary；　to　avoid　rapids　and　shoals；　to　take　the　canal　that　follows　the　river's　bank　twelve　miles　to　St。　Johns；　where　the　Canadian　custom…house　is　located。　Sorel　is　called　William　Henry　by　the　Anglo…Saxon　Canadians。　　The　paper　published　in　this　town　of　seven　thousand　inhabitants　is　La　　Gazette　de　Sorel。　　The　river　which　flows　past　the　town　is　called；　without　authority；　by　some　　geographers；　Sorel　River；　and　by　others　St。　Johns；　because　the　town　nearest　its　source　is　St。　Johns；　and　another　town　at　its　mouth　is　Sorel。　　There　are　about　one　hundred　English…speaking　families　in　Sorel。　The　American　Waterhouse　Machinery　supplies　the　town　with　water　pumped　from　the　river　at　a　cost　of　one　ton　of　coal　per　day。　　At　ten　o'clock　on　Monday　morning　we　resumed　our　journey　up　the　Richelieu；　the　current　of　which　was　nothing　compared　with　that　of　the　great　river　we　had　left。　　The　average　width　of　the　stream　was　about　a　quarter　of　a　mile；　and　the　grassy　shores　were　made　picturesque　by　groves　of　trees　and　quaintly　constructed　farm…houses。

It　was　a　rich；　pastoral　land；　abounding　in　fine　herds　of　cattle。　　The　country　reminded　me　of　the　Acadian　region　of　Grand　Pre；　which　I　had　visited　during　the　earlier　part　of　the　season。　Here；　as　there；　were　delightful　pastoral　scenes　and　rich　verdure；　but　here　we　still　had　the　　Acadian　peasants；　while　in　the　land　of　beautiful　Evangeline　no　longer　were　they　to　be　found；　The　New　Englander　now　holds　the　titles　to　those　deserted　old　farms　of　the　scattered　　colonists。　　Our　rowing　was　frequently　interrupted　by　heavy　showers；　which　drove　us　under　our　hatch…cloth　for　protection。　　The　same　large；　two…steepled　stone　churches；　with　their　　unpainted　tin　roofs　glistening　like　silver　in　the　sunlight；　marked　out　here；　as　on　the　high　banks　of　the　St。　Lawrence　River；　the　site　of　a　village。

Twelve　miles　of　rowing　brought　us　to　St。　Ours；　where　we　rested　for　the　night；　after　wandering　through　its　shaded　and　quaint　streets。　　The　　village　boys　and　girls　came　down　to　see　us　off　the　next　morning；　waving　their　kerchiefs；　and　　shouting　〃Bon　voyage！〃　　Two　miles　above　the　town　we　encountered　a　dam　three　feet　high；　which　deepened　the　water　on　a　shoal　above　it。　　We　passed　through　a　single　lock　in　company　with　rafts　of　pine　logs　which　were　on　the　way　to　New　York；　to　be　used　for　spars。　　A　lockage　fee　of　twenty…five　cents　for　our　boat　the　lock…master　told　us　would　be　collected　at　Chambly　Basin。　It　was　a　pull　of　nearly　six　miles　to　St。　Denis；　where　the　same　scene　of　comfort　and　plenty　　prevailed。　　Women　were　washing　clothes　in　large　iron　pots　at　the　river's　edge；　and　the　hum　of　the　spinning…wheels　issued　from　the　doorways　of　the　farm…houses。　　Beehives　in　the　well…stocked　gardens　were　filled　with　honey；　and　the　　strawthatched　barns　had　their　doors　thrown　wide　open；　as　though　waiting　to　receive　the　harvest。　At　intervals　along　the　highway；　over　the　grassy　hills；　tall；　white　wooden　crosses　were　erected；　for　this　people；　like　the　Acadians　of　old；　are　very　religious。　　Down　the　current　floated　〃pin…flats；〃　a　curious　scow…like　boat；　which　carries　a　square　sail；　and　makes　good　time　only　when　running　before　the　wind。　　St。　Antoine　and　St。　Marks　were　passed；　and　the　isolated　peak　of　St。　Hilaire　loomed　up　grandly　twelve　hundred　feet　on　the　right　bank　of　the　Richelieu；　opposite　the　town　Beloeil。　　One　mile　above　Beloeil　the　Grand　Trunk　Railroad　crosses　the　stream；　and　here　we　passed　the　night。　　Strong　winds　and　rain　squalls　interrupted　our　progress。　　At　Chambly　Basin　we　tarried　until　the　evening　of　July　16；　before　entering　the　canal。　　Chambly　is　a　　watering…place　for　Montreal　people；　who　come　here　to　enjoy　the　fishing；　which　is　said　to　be　fair。

We　had　ascended　one　water…step　at　St。　Ours。　Here　we　had　eight　steps　to　ascend　within　the　distance　of　one　mile。　　By　means　of　eight　locks；　each　one　hundred　and　ten　feet　long　by　　twenty…two　wide；　the　Mayeta　was　lifted　seventy…five　feet　and　one　inch　in　height　to　the　upper　level　of　the　canal。　　The　lock…masters　were　courteous；　and　wished　us　the　usual　〃Bon　voyage！〃　This　canal　was　built　thirty…four　years　prior　to　my　visit。　By　ten　o'clock　P。　M。　We　had　passed　the　last　lock；　and　went　into　camp　in　a　depression　in　the　bank　of　the　canal。　　The　journey　was　resumed　at　half　past　three　o'clock　the　following　morning；　and　the　row　of　twelve　miles　to　St。　Johns　was　a　　delightful　one。　　The　last　lock　（the　only　one　at　St。　Johns）　was　passed；　and　we　had　a　full　clearance　at　the　Dominion　custom…house　before　noon。

We　were　again　on　the　Richelieu；　with　about　twenty…three　miles　between　us　and　the　boundary　line　of　the　United　States　and　Canada；　and　with　very　little　current　to　impede　us。　　As　dusk　　approached　we　passed　a　dismantled　old　fort；　　situated　upon　an　island　called　Ile　aux　Noix；　and　entered　a　region　inhabited　by　the　large　bull…frog；　where　we　camped　for　the　night；　amid　the　　dolorous　voices　of