voyage of the paper canoe-第34章

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〃How　did　you　know　I　came　from　　Massachusetts？〃　I　called　out　from　the　river。

〃I　knows　de　cuts　ob　dem。　　I　suffered　at　Fort　Wagner。　　Dis　chile　knows　Massachusetts。〃

Two　miles　further　on；　Bull　Creek　served　me　as　a　〃cut…off；〃　and　half　an　hour　after　entering　it　the　tide　was　flooding　against　me。　　When　Goat　Island　Creek　was　passed　on　the　left　hand；　knots　of　pine　forests　rose　picturesquely　in　places　out　of　the　bottom…lands；　and　an　hour　later；　at　　Bennett's　Point；　on　the　right；　I　found　the　watercourse　a　quarter　of　a　mile　in　width。

The　surroundings　were　of　a　lovely　nature　　during　this　day's　journey。　　Here　marshes；　　diversified　by　occasional　hammocks　of　timber　dotting　their　uninteresting　wastes；　there　humble　　habitations　of　whites　and　blacks　appearing　at　intervals　in　the　forest　growth。　　As　I　was　destitute　of　a　finished　chart　of　the　Coast　Survey；　after　rowing　along　one　side　of　Hutchinson's　Island　I　became　bewildered　in　the　maze　of　creeks　which　　penetrate　the　marshes　that　lie　between　Bennett's　Point　and　the　coast。

Making　a　rough　topographical　sketch　of　the　country　as　I　descended　Hutchinson's　Creek；　or　Big　River；　　the　latter　appellation　being　the　most　appropriate；　as　it　is　a　very　wide　　watercourse；　　I　came　upon　a　group　of　low　islands；　and　found　upon　one　of　them　a　plantation　which　had　been　abandoned　to　the　negroes；　and　the　little　bluff　upon　which　two　or　three　rickety　buildings　were　situated　was　the　last　land　which　remained　unsubmerged　during　a　high　tide　between　the　plantation　and　the　sea。

I　was　now　in　a　quandary。　　I　had　left　the　　hospitable　residence　of　Governor　Aiken　at　ten　o'clock　A。　M。；　when　I　should　have　departed　at　sunrise　in　order　to　have　had　time　to　enter　and　pass　through　St。　Helena　Sound　before　night　came　on。　　The　prospect　of　obtaining　shelter　was　indeed　dismal。　Just　at　this　time　a　loud　shout　from　the　negroes　on　shore　attracted　my　attention；　and　I　rested　upon　my　oars；　while　a　boat…load　of　women　and　children　paddled　out　to　me。

〃Is　dat　de　little　boat？〃　they　asked；　viewing　my　craft　with　curious　eyes。　〃And　is　dat　boat　made　of　paper？〃　they　continued；　showing　that　negro　runners　had　posted　the　people；　even　in　these　solitary　regions；　of　the　approach　of　the　paper　canoe。　I　questioned　these　negro　women　about　the　route；　but　each　gave　a　different　　answer　as　to　the　passage　through　the　Horns　to　St。　Helena　Sound。　　Hurrying　on　through　tortuous　creeks；　the　deserted　tract　called　〃the　Horns〃　was　entered；　and　until　sunset　I　followed　one　short　stream　after　another；　to　its　source　in　the　reedy　plain；　constantly　retracing　the　route；　with　the　tide　not　yet　ebbing　strong　enough　to　show　me　a　course　to　the　sound。　　Presently　it　ebbed　more　rapidly；　and　I　followed　the　tide　from　one　　intricacy　to　another；　but　never　found　the　principal　thoroughfare。

While　I　was　enveloped　in　reeds；　and　at　a　loss　which　way　to　go；　the　soft　ripple　of　breaking　waves　struck　my　ear　like　sweet　music。　　The　sea　was　telling　me　of　its　proximity。　　Carefully　　balancing　myself；　I　stood　up　in　the　cranky　canoe；　and　peering　over　the　grassy　thickets；　saw　before　me　the　broad　waters　of　Helena　Sound。　　The　fresh　salt　breeze　from　the　ocean　struck　upon　my　forehead；　and　nerved　me　to　a　renewal　of　my　efforts　to　get　within　a　region　of　higher　land；　and　to　a　place　of　shelter。

The　ebbing　tide　was　yet　high；　and　through　the　forest　of　vegetation；　and　over　the　submerged　coast；　I　pushed　the　canoe　into　the　sound。　　Now　I　rowed　as　though　for　my　life；　closely　skirting　the　marshes；　and　soon　entered　waters　covered　by　a　chart　in　my　possession。　　My　course　was　to　skirt　the　coast　of　the　sound　from　where　I　had　entered　it；　and　cross　the　mouths　of　the　Combahee　and　Bull　rivers　to　the　entrance　of　the　broad　Coosaw。　This　last　river　I　would　ascend　seven　miles　to　the　first　upland；　and　camp　thereon　until　morning。　The　tide　was　now　against　me；　and　the　night　was　growing　darker；　as　the　faithful　craft　was　forced　along　the　marshes　four　miles　to　the　mouth　of　the　Combahee　River；　which　I　had　to　ascend　half　a　mile　to　get　rid　of　a　shoal　of　frisky　　porpoises；　who　were　fishing　in　the　current。

Then　descending　it　on　the　opposite　shore；　I　rowed　two　miles　further　in　the　dark；　but　for　half　an　hour　previous　to　my　reaching　the　wide　　debouchure　of　Bull　River；　some　enormous　　blackfish　surged　about　me　in　the　tideway　and　sounded　their　nasal　calls；　while　their　more　demonstrative　porpoise　neighbors　leaped　from　the　water　in　the　misty　atmosphere；　and　so　alarmed　me　and　　occupied　my　attention；　that　instead　of　crossing　to　the　Coosaw　River；　I　unwittingly　ascended　the　Bull；　and　was　soon　lost　in　the　contours　of　the　river。　As　I　hugged　the　marshy　borders　of　the　stream　to　escape　the　strong　current　of　its　channel；　and　rowed　on　and　on　in　the　gloom；　eagerly　scanning　the　high；　sedge…fringed　flats　to　find　one　little　spot　of　firm　upland　upon　which　I　might　land　my　canoe　and　obtain　a　resting…spot　for　myself　for　the　night；　the　feeling　that　I　was　lost　was　not　the　most　cheerful　to　be　imagined。　　In　the　thin　fog　which　arose　from　the　warm　water　into　the　cool　night　air；　objects　on　the　marshes　assumed　　fantastical　shapes。　　A　few　reeds；　taller　than　the　rest；　had　the　appearance　of　trees　twenty　feet　high。　So　real　did　these　unreal　images　seem；　that　I　drove　my　canoe　against　the　soft；　muddy　bank；　repeatedly　prompted　to　land　in　what　seemed　a　copse　of　low　trees；　but　in　every　instance　I　was　deceived。　　Still　I　pulled　up　that　mysterious　river；　ignorant　at　the　time　of　even　its　name；　praying　only　for　one　little　spot　of　upland　where　I　might　camp。

While　thus　employed；　I　peered　over　my　shoulder　into　the　gloom；　and　beheld　what　seemed　to　be　a　vision；　for；　out　of　a　cloud　of　mist　rose　the　skeleton　lines　of　a　large　ship；　with　all　its　sails　furled　to　the　yards。　　〃A　ship　at　anchor；　and　in　this　out…of…the…way　place！〃　I　　ejaculated；　scarcely　believing　my　eyes；　but　when　I　pointed　the　canoe　towards　it；　and　again　looked　over　my　shoulder；　the　vision　of　hope　was　gone。

Again　I　saw　tall　masts　cutting　through　the　mists；　but　the　ship's　hull　could　not　be　　distinguished；　and　as　I　rowed　towards　the　objects；　first　the　lower　masts　disappeared；　then　the　topmasts　dissolved；　and　later；　the　topgallant　and　royal　masts　faded　away。　　For　half　an　hour　I　rowed　and　rowed　for　that　mysterious　vessel；　which　was　veiled　and　unveiled　to　my　sight。　　Never　did　so　spectral　an　object　haunt　or　thwart　me。　　It　seemed　to　change　its　position　on　the　water；　as　well　as　in　the　atmosphere；　and　I　was　too　busily　employed　in　trying　to　reach　it　to　discover　in　the　darkness　that　the　current；　which　I　could　not　　distinguish　from　smooth　water；　was　whirling　me　down　stream　as　fast　as　I　would　approach　the　weird　vessel。

Drawing　once　more　from　the　current；　I　　followed　the　marsh　until　the　canoe　was　opposite　the　anchorage　of　a　real　ship；　then；　with　hearty　pulls；　I　shot　around　its　stern；　and　shouted：　〃Ship　ahoy！〃

No　one　answered　the　hail。　The　vessel　looked　like　a　man…of…war；　but　not　of　American　build。　Not　a　light　gleamed　from　her　ports；　not　a　　footfall　came　from　her　decks。　　She　seemed　to　be　deserted　in　the　middle　of　the　river；　surrounded　by　a　desolate　waste　of　marshes。　　The　current　gurgled　and　sucked　about　her　run；　as　the　　ebbtide　washed　her　black　hull　on　its　way　to　the　sea。　The　spectacle　seemed　now　even　more　　mysterious　than　when；　mirage…like；　it　peered　forth　from　a　cloud　of　mist。　　But　it　was　real；　and　not　fantastic。　　Another　hail；　louder　than　the　first；　went　forth　into　the　night　air；　and　penetrated　to　the　ship's　forecastle；　for　a　sailor　answered　my　call；　and　reported　to　the　captain　in　the　cabin　the　presence　of　a　boat　at　the　ship's　side。

A　quick；　firm　tread　sounded　upon　the　deck；　then；　with　a　light　bound；　a　powerfully…built　young　man　landed　upon　the　high　rail　of　the　　vessel。　　He　peered　down　from　his　stately　ship　upon　the　little　speck　which　floated　upon　the　gurgling　current；　then；　with　a　voice　〃filled　with　the　fogs　of　the　ocean；〃　he　thundered　forth；　as　though　he　were　hailing　a　man…of…war：　〃What　boat's　that？〃

〃Paper　canoe　Maria　Theresa；〃　I　replied；　in　as　foggy　a　voice　as　I　could　assume。

〃Where　from；　and　where　bound？〃　again　roared　the　captain。

〃From　Quebec；　Canada；　and　bound　to　sleep　on　board　your　vessel；　if　I　can　ever　get　up　there；〃　I　politely　responded；　in　a　more　subdued　voice；　for　I　soon　discovered　that　nature　had　never　　intended　me　for　a　fog…trumpet。

〃Ah；　is　it　you？〃　cheerily　responded　the　　captain；　suddenly　dispensing　with　all　his　fogginess；　〃I've　been　looking　for　you　this　long　time。　Got　a　Charleston　paper　on　board；　your　trip　all　in　it。　Come　up；　and　break　a　bottle　of　wine　with　me。〃

〃All　hands〃　came　from　the　forecastle；　and　Finland　mates　and　Finland　sailors；　speaking　both　English　and　Russian；　crowded　to　the　rail　to　receive　the　paper　canoe；　which　had　first　been　described　to　them　by　English　newspapers　when　the　vessel　lay　in　a　British　port；　awaiting　the　charter…party　which　afterwards　sent　them　to　Bull　River；　South　Carolina；　for　a　load　of　phosphates。

The　jolly　crew　lowered　buntlines　and　　clewlines；　to　which　I　attached　my　boat's　stores。　These　were　hoisted　up　the　high　sides　of　the　ship；　and；　after　bending　on　a　line　to　the　bow　and　stern　rings　of　the　canoe；　I　ascended　by　the　　ladder；　while　Captain　Johs。　Bergelund　and　his　mates　claimed　the　pleasure　of　landing　the　paper　canoe　on　the　deck　of　the　Rurik。　　The　tiny　shell　looked　very　small　as　she　rested　on　the　broad；　white　decks　of　the　emperor　of　Russia's　old　steam　yacht；　which　bore　the　name　of　the　founder　of　the　Russian　empire。　　Though　now　a　bark　and　not　a　steamer；　though　a　freighter　and　not　a　royal　yacht；　the　Rurik　looked　every　inch　a　government　vessel；　for　her　young　captain；　with　a　sailor's　pride；　kept　her　in　a　thorough　state　of　cleanliness　and　order。　　We　went　to　supper。　The　captain；　his　mates；　and　the　stranger　　gathered　around　the　board；　while　the　generous　sailor　brought　out　his　curious　bottles　and　put　them　by　the　side　of　the　still　more　curious　dishes　of　food。

All　my　surroundings　were　those　of　the　　country　of　the　midnight　sun；　and　I　should　have　felt　more　bewildered　than　when　in　the　fog　I　viewed　and　chased　this　spectral…looking　ship；　had　not　Captain　Bergelund；　in　most　excellent　English；　entertained　me　with　a　flow　of　conversation　which　put　me　at　my　ease。　　He　discoursed　of　Finland；　where　lakes　covered　the　country　from　near　Abo；　its　chief　city；　to　the　far　north；　where　the　summer　days　are　〃nearly　all　night　long。〃

Painting　in　high　colors　the　delights　of　his　　native　land；　he　begged　me　to　visit　it。　　Finally；　as　midnight　drew　near；　this　genial　sailor　insisted　upon　putting　me　in　his　own　comfortable　　stateroom；　while　he　slept　upon　a　lounge　in　the　cabin。

One　mile　above　the　Rurik's　anchorage　was　the　phosphate…mill　of　the　Pacific　Company；　which　was　supplying　Captain　Bergelund；　by　lighters；　with　his　freight　of　unground　fertilizer。

The　next　morning　I　took　leave　of　the　Rurik；　but；　instead　of　descending　the　Bull　River　to　the　Coosaw；　I　determined　to　save　time　by　crossing　the　peninsula　between　the　two　rivers　by　means　of　two　short　creeks　which　were　connected　at　their　sources　by　a　very　short　canal　near　〃the　mines〃　of　the　Phosphate　Company。　　When　I　entered　Horse　Island　Creek；　at　eleven　o'clock；　the　tide　was　on　the　last　of　the　ebb；　and　I　sat　in　the　canoe　a　long　time　awaiting　the　flood　to　float　me　up　the　wide　ditch；　which　would　conduct　me　to　the　creek　that　emptied　into　the　Coosaw。　Upon　the　banks　of　the　canal　t