voyage of the paper canoe-第28章

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ye　a…travel'ing　in　this　sort　of　way　for；　in　a　paper　dug…out？〃

I　pleaded　a　strong　desire　to　study　geography；　but　the　wise　fellow　replied：

〃Geography！　geography！　　Why；　the　fellers　who　rite　geography　never　travel；　they　stay　at　home　and　spin　their　yarns　'bout　things　they　never　sees。〃　Then；　glancing　at　his　poor　　butternut　coat　and　pantaloons；　he　felt　my　blue　woollen　suit；　and　continued；　in　a　slow；　husky　voice：　〃Stranger；　them　clothes　cost　something；　they　be　store…clothes。　That　paper　dug…out　cost　money；　I　tell　ye；　and　it　costs　something　to　travel　the　hull　length　of　the　land。　　No；　stranger；　if　ye　be　not　on　a　bet；　then　somebody's　a…paying　ye　well　for　it。〃

For　an　hour　I　entertained　this　roughest　of　law　dignitaries　with　an　account　of　my　long　row；　its　trials　and　its　pleasures。　　He　became　interested　in　the　story；　and　finally　related　to　me　his　own　aspirations；　and　the　difficulties　attending　his　　efforts　to　make　the　piny…woods　people　respect　the　laws　and　good　government。　　He　then　described　the　river　route　through　the　swamps　to　the　sea；　and；　putting　his　arm　around　me　in　the　most　　affectionate　manner；　he　mournfully　said：

〃O　stranger；　my　heart　is　with　ye；　but　O；　how　ye　will　have　to　take　it　when　ye　go　past　those　awful　wretches　to…morrow；　how　they　will　give　it　to　ye！　　They　most　knocked　me　off　my　raft；　last　time　I　went　to　Georgetown。　　Beware　of　them；　I　warn　ye　in　time。　　Dern　the　hussies。〃

Squire　Jim　so　emphasized　the　danger　that　I　became　somewhat　alarmed；　for；　more　than　　anything　else；　I　dreaded　an　outbreak　with　rough　women。　　And　then；　too；　my　new　acquaintance　informed　me　that　there　were　four　or　five　of　these　wretches；　of　the　worst　kind；　located　several　miles　down　the　stream。　　As　I　was　about　to　　inquire　into　the　habits　of　these　ugly　old　crones；　Mr。　Hall；　wishing　to　give　Squire　James　a　hint；　remarked　that　Mr。　B_____　might　at　any　time　　retire　to　the　next　room；　where　half　the　bed　was　at　his　disposal。

〃Half　the　bed！〃　roared　the　squire；　〃here　are　three　of　us；　and　where's　my　half？〃

〃Why；　squire；〃　hesitatingly　responded　my　host；　　Mr。　B_____　is　my　guest；　and　having　but　one　bed；　he　must　have　half　of　it　　no　less。〃

〃Then　what's　to　become　of　me？〃　thundered　his　Majesty　of　the　law。

Having　been　informed　that　a　shake…down　would　have　been　ready　had　he　given　notice　of　his　visit；　and　that　at　some　future　time；　when　not　so　crowded；　he　could　be　entertained　like　a　　gentleman；　he　drew　himself　up；　wrapped　in　the　mantle　of　dignity；　and　replied：

〃None　of　that　soft　talk；　my　friend。　　This　man　　is　a　traveller；　let　him　take　travellers'　luck　　three　in　a　bed　to…night。　　I'm　bound　to　sleep　with　him　to…night。　　Hall；　where's　the　bottle？〃

I　now　retired　to　the　back　room；　and；　without　undressing；　planted　myself　on　the　side　of　the　bed　next　the　wall。　　Sleep　was；　however；　an　　unattainable　luxury；　with　the　squire's　voice　in　the　next　room；　as　he　told　how　the　country　was　going　to　the　dogs；　because　〃niggers　and　white　folks　wouldn't　respect　the　laws。　　It　took　half　a　man's　time　to　larn　it　to　'em；　and　much　thanks　he　ever　got　by　setting　everybody　to　rights。〃　　He　wound　up　by　lecturing　Hall　for　being　so　temperate；　his　diligent　search　in　all　directions　for　bottles　or　jugs　being　rewarded　by　finding　them　filled　with　unsatisfactory　emptiness。

He　then　tumbled　into　the　centre　of　the　bed；　crowding　me　close　against　the　wall。　　Poor　Hall；　having　the　outside　left　to　him；　spent　the　night　in　exercising　his　brain　and　muscles　in　vain　attempts　to　keep　in　his　bed；　for　when　his　Majesty　of　the　law　put　his　arms　akimbo；　the　traveller　went　to　the　wall；　and　the　host　to　the　floor。　　Thus　passed　my　first　night　in　the　great　swamps　of　the　　Waccamaw　River。

The　negro　cook　gave　us　an　early　breakfast　of　bacon；　sweet　potatoes；　and　corn　bread。　　The　squire　again　looked　round　for　the　bottle；　and　again　found　nothing　but　emptiness。　　He　helped　me　to　carry　my　canoe　along　the　unsteady　footing　of　the　dark　swamp　to　the　lower　side　of　the　raft　of　logs；　and　warmly　pressed　my　hand　as　he　whispered：　〃My　dear　B____；　I　shall　think　of　you　until　you　get　past　those　dreadful　'wretches。'　Keep　an　eye　on　your　little　boat；　or　they'll　devil　you。〃

Propelled　by　my　double　paddle；　the　canoe　seemed　to　fly　through　the　great　forest　that　rose　with　its　tall　trunks　and　weird；　moss…draped　arms；　out　of　the　water。　　The　owls　were　still　hooting。　　Indeed；　the　dolorous　voice　of　this　bird　of　darkness　sounded　through　the　heavy　woods　at　intervals　throughout　the　day。　　I　seemed　to　have　left　the　real　world　behind　me；　and　to　have　entered　upon　a　landless　region　of　sky；　trees；　and　water。

〃Beware　of　the　cut…offs；〃　said　Hall；　before　I　left。　　　Only　the　Crackers　and　shingle…makers　know　them。　　If　followed；　they　would　save　you　many　a　mile；　but　every　opening　through　the　swamp　is　not　a　cut…off。　　Keep　to　the　main　stream；　though　it　be　more　crooked　and　longer。　If　you　take　to　the　cut…offs；　you　may　get　into　passages　that　will　lead　you　off　into　the　swamps　and　into　interior　bayous；　from　which　you　will　never　emerge。　　Men　have　starved　to　death　in　such　places。〃

So　I　followed　the　winding　stream；　which　turned　back　upon　itself；　running　north　and　south；　and　east　and　west；　as　if　trying　to　box　the　　compass　by　following　the　sun　in　its　revolution。　After　paddling　down　one　bend；　I　could　toss　a　stick　through　the　trees　into　the　stream　where　the　canoe　had　cleaved　its　waters　a　quarter　of　a　mile　　behind　me。

The　thought　of　what　I　should　do　in　this　　landless　region　if　my　frail　shell；　in　its　rapid　flight　to　the　sea；　happened　to　be　pierced　by　a　snag；　was；　to　say　the　least；　not　a　comforting　one。　　On　what　could　I　stand　to　repair　it？　　To　climb　a　tree　seemed；　in　such　a　case；　the　only　resource；　and　then　what　anxious　waiting　there　would　be　for　some　cypress…shingle　maker；　in　his　dug…out　　canoe；　to　come　to　the　rescue；　and　take　the　traveller　from　his　dangerous　lodgings　between　heaven　and　earth；　or　it　might　be　that　no　one　would　pass　that　way；　and　the　weary　waiting　would　be　even　unto　death。

But　sounds　now　reached　my　ears　that　made　me　feel　that　I　was　not　quite　alone　in　this　desolate　swamp。　The　gray　squirrels　scolded　among　the　tree…tops；　robins；　the　brown　thrush；　and　a　large　black　woodpecker　with　his　bright　red　head；　each　reminded　me　of　Him　without　whose　notice　not　a　sparrow　falleth　to　the　ground。

Ten　miles　of　this　black　current　were　passed　over；　when　the　first　signs　of　civilization　appeared；　in　the　shape　of　a　sombre…looking；　two…storied　house；　located　upon　a　point　of　the　mainland　which　entered　the　swamp　on　the　left　shore　of　the　river。　At　this　point　the　river　widened　to　five　or　six　rods；　and　at　intervals　land　appeared　a　few　inches　above　the　water。　　Wherever　the　pine　land　touched　the　river　a　pig…pen　of　rails　offered　shelter　and　a　gathering…place　for　the　hogs；　which　are　turned　loose　by　the　white　Cracker　to　feed　upon　the　roots　and　mast　of　the　　wilderness。

Reeve's　Ferry；　on　the　right　bank；　with　a　little　store　and　turpentine…still；　twenty　miles　from　Old　Dock；　was　the　next　sign　of　the　presence　of　man　in　this　swamp。　The　river　now　became　broad　as　I　approached　Piraway　Ferry；　which　is　two　miles　below　Piraway　Farm。　　Remembering　the　　warnings　of　the　squire　as　to　the　〃awful　wretches　in　the　big　pine　woods；〃　I　kept　a　sharp　lookout　for　the　old　women　who　were　to　give　me　so　much　trouble；　but　the　raftsmen　on　the　river　explained　that　though　Jim　Gore　had　told　me　the　truth；　I　had　misunderstood　his　pronunciation　of　the　word　reaches；　or　river　bends；　which　are　called　in　this　vicinity　wretches。　　The　reaches　referred　to　by　Mr。　Gore　were　so　long　and　straight　as　to　afford　open　passages　for　wind　to　blow　up　them；　and　these　fierce　gusts　of　head　winds　give　the　raftsmen　much　trouble　while　poling　their　rafts　against　them。

My　fears　of　ill　treatment　were　now　at　rest；　for　my　tiny　craft；　with　her　sharp…pointed　bow；　was　well　adapted　for　such　work。　　Landing　at　the　ferry　where　a　small　scow　or　flat…boat　was　resting　upon　the　firm　land；　the　ferryman；　Mr。　Daniel　Dunkin；　would　not　permit　me　to　camp　out　of　doors　while　his　log…cabin　was　only　one　mile　away　on　the　pine…covered　uplands。　　He　told　me　that　the　boundary…line　between　North　and　South　Carolina　crossed　this　swamp　three　and　a　half　miles　below　Piraway　Ferry；　and　that　the　first　town　on　the　river　Waccamaw；　in　South　Carolina；　Conwayborough；　was　a　distance　of　ninety　miles　by　river　and　only　thirty　miles　by　land。　　There　was　but　one　bridge　over　the　river；　from　its　head　to　Conwayborough；　and　it　was　built　by　Mr。　James　Wortham；　twenty　years　before；　for　his　plantation。　　This　bridge　was　twenty　miles　below　Piraway；　and　from　it　by　land　to　a　settlement　on　Little　River；　which　empties　into　the　Atlantic；　was　a　distance　of　only　five　miles。　　A　short　canal　would　connect　this　river　and　its　lumber　regions　with　Little　River　and　the　sea。

For　the　first　time　in　my　experience　as　a　　traveller　I　had　entered　a　country　where　the　miles　were　short。　　When　fifteen　years　old　I　made　my　first　journey　alone　and　on　foot　from　the　vicinity　of　Boston　to　the　White　Mountains　of　New　Hampshire。　　This　boyish　pedestrian　trip　　occupied　about　twenty…one　days；　and　covered　some　three　hundred　miles　of　hard　tramping。　　New　England　gives　honest　measure　on　the　　finger…posts　along　her　highways。　　The　traveller　learns　by　well…earned　experience　the　length　of　her　miles；　but　in　the　wilderness　of　the　south　there　is　no　standard　of　five　thousand　two　hundred　and　eighty　feet　to　a　statute　mile；　and　the　watermen　along　the　sea…coast　are　ignorant　of　the　fact　that　one…sixtieth　of　a　degree　of　latitude　（about　six　thousand　and　eighty　feet）　is　the　geographical　and　nautical　mile　of　the　cartographer；　as　well　as　the　〃knot〃　of　the　sailor。

At　Piraway　Ferry　no　two　of　the　raftsmen　and　lumbermen；　ignorant　or　educated；　would　give　the　same　distance；　either　upon　the　lengths　of　surveyed　roads　or　unmeasured　rivers。　　〃It　is　one　hundred　and　sixty…five　miles　by　river　from　Piraway　Ferry　to　Conwayborough；〃　said　one　who　had　travelled　the　route　for　years。　The　most　moderate　estimate　made　was　that　of　ninety　miles　by　river。　　The　reader；　therefore；　must　not　accuse　me　of　　overstating　distances　while　absent　from　the　seaboard；　as　my　friends　of　the　Coast　Survey　Bureau　have　not　yet　penetrated　into　these　interior　regions　with　their　theodolites；　plane…tables；　and　　telametrerods。　　To　the　canoeist；　who　is　ambitious　to　score　up　miles　instead　of　collecting　geographical　notes；　these　wild　rivers　afford　an　excellent　opportunity　to　satisfy　his　aims。

From　sixty　to　eighty　miles　can　be　rowed　in　ten　hours　as　easily　as　forty　miles　can　be　gone　over　upon　a　river　of　slow　current　in　the　　northern　states。　　There　is；　I　am　sorry　to　say；　a　class　of　American　travellers　who　　〃do〃　all　the　capitals　of　Europe　in　the　same　business…like　way；　and　if　they　have　anything　to　say　in　regard　to　every…day　life　in　the　countries　through　which　they　pass；　they　forget　to　thank　the　compiler　of　the　guide…book　for　the　information　they　possess。

There　was　but　one　room　in　the　cabin　of　my　new　acquaintance；　who　represented　that　class　of　piny…woods　people　called　in　the　south　　because　they　subsist　largely　upon　corn；　　Corn　Crackers；　or　Crackers。　These　Crackers　are　the　〃poor　white　folks〃　of　the　planter；　and　〃de　white　trash〃　of　the　old　slave；　who　now　as　a　freedman　is　　beginning　to　feel　the　responsibility　of　his　position。

These　Crackers　are　a　very　kind…hearted　people；　but　few　of　them　can　read　or　write。　　The　children　of　the　negro；　f