voyage of the paper canoe-第17章
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Passing to the west of the light…house through this passage； I thought of what a woman could do； and almost expected to hear from the rippling waters the 〃Song of the Shirt；〃 which would have been in this case a much more cheerful one than Hood's。 I now entered Great Assawaman Bay； the waters of which lay like a mirror before me； and nearly five miles away； to the southwestern end； the tall forests of the Isle of Wight loomed up against the setting sun。 Ducks rose in flocks from the quiet waters as my canoe glided into their close vicinity。 If I could have taken less cargo； I should have carried a light gun； but this being impossible； a pocket revolver was my only fire…arm： so the ducks and other wild…fowl along my route had reason to hold the paper canoe in grateful remembrance。
Upon reaching the shores of the Isle of Wight I entered the mouth of St。 Martin's River； which is； at its confluence with Isle of Wight Bay； more than two miles wide。 I did not then possess the fine Coast Chart No。28； or the General Chart of the Coast； No。4； with the topography of the land clearly delineated； and showing every man's farm…buildings； fields； landings； &c。； so plainly located as to make it easy for even a novice to navigate these bays。 Now； being chartless so far as these waters were concerned； I peered about in the deepening twilight for my friend's plantation buildings； which I knew were not far off； but the gloomy forests of pine upon the upland opened not the desired vista I so longed to find。
Crossing the wide river； I came upon a long point of salt…marsh； which I hoped might be Keyser's Point； for I knew that to the west of this point I should find Turval's Creek。 While rowing along the marsh I came upon two duck…shooters in their punt； but so enveloped were they in the mist that it was impossible to do more than define their forms。 I； however； ventured a question as to my locality； when； to my utter astonishment； there came back to me in clear accents my own name。 Never before had it sounded so sweet to my ears。 It was the voice of my friend； who with a companion was occupied in removing from the water the flock of decoys which they had been guarding since sunrise。 Joyful was the unexpected meeting。
We rowed around Keyser's Point； and up Turval's Creek； a couple of miles to the plantation landing。 There； upon the old estate in the little family burial…ground； slept； 〃each in his narrow cell；〃 the children of four generations。 Our conversation before the blazing wood…fire that night related to the ground travelled over during the day； a course of about thirty…five miles。 Mr。 Taylor's father mentioned that a friend； during one week in the previous September； had taken upon his hook； while fishing from the marshes of Rehoboth Bay； five hundred rock…fish； some of which weighed twenty pounds。 The oysters in Rehoboth and Indian River bays had died out； probably from the decrease in the amount of salt water now entering them。 A delightful week was spent with my friends at Winchester Plantation； when the falling of the mercury warned me to hurry southward。
On Wednesday； November 25； I descended the plantation creek and rowed out of St。 Martin's River into the Bay。 My course southward led me past 〃the Hommack；〃 an Indian mound of oyster…shells； which rises about seven feet above the marsh on the west side of the entrance to Sinepuxent bay； and where the mainland approaches to within eight hundred feet of the beach。 This point； which divides the Isle of Wight Bay from Sinepuxent； is the terminus of the Wicomico and Pocomoke Railroad； which has been extended from Berlin eastwardly seven miles。 A short ferry conveys the passengers across the water to a narrow island beach； which is considered by Bayard Taylor； the author； the finest beach he has ever visited。 This new watering…place is called Ocean City； and my friend； B。 Jones Taylor； was treasurer of the company which was engaged in making the much…desired improvements。 The shallow bays in the vicinity of Ocean City offer safe and pleasant sailing…grounds。 The summer fishing consists chiefly of white perch； striped bass； sheep's…head； weak…fish； and drum。 In the fall； bluefish are caught。 All of these； with oysters； soft crabs； and diamond…backed terrapin； offer tempting dishes to the epicure。 This recently isolated shore is now within direct railroad communication with Philadelphia and New York； and can be reached in nine hours from the former； and in twelve hours from the latter city。
From the Hommack to South Point is included the length of Sinepuxent Bay； according to Coast Survey authority。 From South Point to below the middle of Chincoteague Island the bay is put down as 〃Assateague；〃 though the oystermen do not call it by that name。 The celebrated oyster…beds of the people of Chincoteague commence about twenty miles south of the Hornmack。 There are two kinds of oysters shipped from Chincoteague Inlet to New York and other markets。 One is the long native plant the other； that transplanted from Chesapeake Bay： this bivalve is rounded in form； and the most prized of the two。 The average width of Sinepuxent was only a mile。 When I turned westwardly around South Point； and entered Assateague Bay； the watery expanse widened； between the marshes on the west and the sandy…beach island on the east； to over four miles。
The debouchure of Newport Creek is to the west of South Point。 The marshes here are very wide。 I ascended it in the afternoon to visit Dr。 F。 J。 Purnell； whose attempts to introduce the pinnated grouse and California partridges on his plantation had attracted the attention of Mr。 Charles Hallock； editor of 〃Forest and Stream〃； and I had promised him； if possible； to investigate the matter。 This South Point of Sinepuxent Neck is a place of historical interest； it being now asserted that it is the burial place of Edward Whalley； the regicide。
Early in 1875； Mr。 Robert P。 Robins found in a bundle of old family documents a paper containing interesting statements written by his great…great…grandfather； Thomas Robins； 3d； of South Point； Worcester County； Maryland； and dated July 8； 1769。 We gather from this reliable source that Edward Whalley left Connecticut and arrived in Virginia in 1618； and was there met by a portion of his family。 From Virginia he travelled to the 〃province of Maryland； and settled first at ye mouth of ye Pokemoke River； and finding yt too publick a place he came to Sinepuxent； a neck of land open to ye Atlantic Ocean； where Colonel Stephen was surveying and bought a tract of land from him and called it Genezar； it contained two thousand two hundred acres； south end of Sinepuxent； and made a settlement on ye southern extremity； and called it South Point； to ye which place he brought his family about 1687； in ye name of Edward Middleton。 His own name he made not publick until after this date； after ye revolution in England； （in ye year of our Lord 1688；） when he let his name be seen in publick papers； and had ye lands patented in his own name。〃
The writer of the above quotation was the great…grandson of Edward Whalley （alias Edward Middleton）； the celebrated regicide。
Four miles from South Point I struck the marshes which skirted Dr。 Purnell's large plantation； and pushing the canoe up a narrow branch of the creek； I waded through the partially submerged herbage to the firm ground； where the doctor was awaiting me。 His house was close at hand； within the hospitable walls of which I passed the night。 Dr。 Purnell has an estate of one thousand five hundred acres； lying along the banks of Newport Creek。 Since the civil war it has been worked by tenants。 Much of it is woodland and salt…marshes。 Five years before my visit； a Philadelphian sent the doctor a few pairs of prairie…chickens； and a covey of both the valley and the mountain partridge。 I am now using popular terms。 The grouse were from a western state； the partridges had been obtained from California。 The partridges were kept caged for several weeks and were then set at liberty。 They soon disappeared in the woods； with the exception of a single pair； which returned daily to the kitchen…door of a farm tenant to obtain food。 These two birds nested in the garden close to the house； and reared a fine brood of young； but the whole covey wandered away； and were afterwards heard from but once。 They had crossed to the opposite side of Newport Creek； and were probably shot by gunners。
The prairie…chickens adapted themselves to their new home in a satisfactory manner； and became very tame。 Their nests； well filled with eggs； were found along the rail…fences of the fields in the close vicinity of the marshes； for which level tracts they seemed to have strong attachment。 They multiplied rapidly； and visited the cattle…pens and barn…yards of the plantation。
The Maryland legislature passed a law to protect all grouse introduced into the state； but a new danger threatened these unfortunate birds。 A crew of New Jersey terrapin…hunters entered Chincoteague Inlet； and searched the ditches and little creeks of the salt…marshes for the 〃diamondbacks。〃 While thus engaged； the gentle grouse； feeding quietly in the vicinity； attracted their attention； and they at once bagged most of them。 A tenant on the estate informed me that he had seen eighteen birds in a cornfield a few days before the remnant of the stock。
The Ruffled Grouse （Bonasa umbellas）； so abundant in New Jersey； is not a resident of the peninsula。 Dr。 Purnell's first experiment with the Pinnated Grouse （Cupidonia cupido） has encouraged others to bring the ruffled grouse to the eastern shore of Maryland。 That unapproachable songster of the south； the American Mocking…bird （Mimus polyglottus）； is becoming scarce in this region； from the inroads made by bird…catchers who ship the young to northern cities。 This delightful chorister is only an accidental visitor in the New England states。 Indeed as far south as Ocean County； New Jersey； I saw but one of these birds； in a residence of nine years on my cranberry plantations； though I have heard that their nests are occasionally found about Cape May； at the extreme southern end of New Jersey。
My time being limited； I could enjoy the doctor's hospitality for but one night。 The next morning the whole family； with tenants both black and white； assisted me to embark。 By dusk I had crossed the division line of two states； and had entered Virginia near the head of Chincoteague Island； a locality of peculiar interest to the student of American character。 The ebb…tide had left but little water around the rough pier abreast of the town； and heaps of oyster…shells rose from the mud flats and threatened the safety of my canoe。 I looked up through the darkness to the light pier…head above me； and called for assistance。 Two men leaned over to inquire； 〃What's the row now； stranger？ 〃 To which I replied； 〃I wish to land a light boat on your pier； and as it is made of paper； it should be carefully handled。〃 For a moment the oystermen observed a silence； and then； without one word of explanation； disappeared。 I heard their heavy boots tramping up the quay towards the tavern。 Soon a low murmur arose on the night air； then hoarse s
