voyage of the paper canoe-第11章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！


　〃　　　　　　　　　　　　　　〃　Hudson；　　　。　　。　　。　　。　　5…1/2〃　。　　。　　。　　。　　　　〃　　30　　　〃　　　　　　　　　　　　　　〃　Albany；　　　。　　。　　。　　。　　7　　　　〃　。　　。　　。　　。　　　　〃　　36　　　〃　　。〃


The　trip；　which　was　made　against　a　strong　head　wind；　was　entirely　successful。　　The　large　steamers　can　now　make　the　trip　from　New　York　to　Albany　in　about　ten　hours。

As　I　pulled　easily　along　the　banks　of　the　river；　my　eyes　feasted　upon　the　gorgeous　coloring　of　the　autumnal　foliage；　which　formed　a　scene　of　beauty　never　to　be　forgotten。　　The　rapid　　absorption　of　oxygen　by　the　leaves　in　the　fall　months　produces；　in　northern　America；　these　vivid　tints　which　give　to　the　country　the　appearance　of　a　land　covered　with　a　varied　and　brilliant　garment；　〃a　coat　of　many　colors。〃　A　soft　hazy　light　　pervaded　the　atmosphere；　while　at　the　same　time　the　October　air　was　gently　exhilarating　to　the　nervous　system。　　At　six　o'clock　P。　M。　the　canoe　arrived　at　Hudson　City；　which　is　on　the　east　bank　of　the　river；　and　I　completed　a　row　of　thirty…eight　statute　miles；　according　to　local　　authority；　but　in　reality　forty…nine　miles　by　the　correct　charts　of　the　United　States　Coast　Survey。　After　storing　the　Maria　Theresa　in　a　shed；　I　　repaired　to　a　dismal　hotel　for　the　night。

At　seven　o'clock　the　next　morning　the　river　was　mantled　in　a　dense　fog；　but　I　pushed　off　and　guided　myself　by　the　sounds　of　the　running　trains　on　the　Hudson　River　Railroad。　　This　　corporation　does　such　an　immense　amount　of　freighting　that；　if　their　freight　trains　were　　connected；　a　continuous　line　of　eighty　miles　would　be　constructed；　of　which　sixteen　miles　are　always　in　transit　day　and　night。　　Steamboats　and　tugs　with　canal…boats　in　tow　were　groping　about　the　river　in　the　misty　darkness；　blowing　whistles　every　few　minutes　to　let　people　know　that　the　pilot　was　not　sleeping　at　the　wheel。　There　was　a　grand　clearing　up　at　noon；　and　as　the　sun　broke　through　the　mist；　the　beautiful　shores　came　into　view　like　a　vivid　flame　of　scarlet；　yellow；　brown；　and　green。　It　was　the　death…song　of　summer；　and　her　dying　notes　the　tinted　leaves；　each　one　giving　to　the　wind　a　sad　strain　as　it　softly　dropped　to　the　earth；　or　was　quickly　hurled　into　space。

A　few　miles　south　of　Hudson　City；　on　the　west　bank；　the　Catskill　stream　enters　the　river。　From　this　point　the　traveller　may　penetrate　the　picturesque　country　of　the　Appalachian　range；　where　its　wild　elevations　were　called　Onti　Ora；　or　〃mountains　of　the　sky；〃　by　the　aborigines。

Roundout；　on　the　right　bank　of　the　Hudson；　is　the　terminus　of　the　Delaware　and　Hudson　Canal；　which　connects　it　with　Port　Jervis　on　the　Delaware；　a　distance　of　fifty…four　miles。　　This　town；　the　outlet　of　the　coal　regions；　I　passed　after　meridian。　　As　I　left　Hudson　on　the　first　of　the　flood…tide；　I　had　to　combat　it　for　several　hours；　but　I　easily　reached　Hyde　Park　Landing　（which　is　on　the　left　bank　of　the　stream　and；　by　local　authority；　thirty…five　miles　from　Hudson　City）　at　five　o'clock　P。　M。　　The　wharf…house　sheltered　the　canoe；　and　a　hotel　in　the　village；　half　a　mile　distant　on　the　high　plains；　its　owner。　I　was　upon　the　river　by　seven　o'clock　the　next　morning。　　The　day　was　varied　by　strong　gusts　of　wind　succeeded　by　calms。　　Six　miles　south　of　Hyde　Park　is　the　beautiful　city　of　　Poughkeepsie　with　its　eighteen　thousand　inhabitants；　and　the　celebrated　Vassar　Female　College。　Eight　miles　down　the　river；　and　on　the　same　side；　is　a　small　village　called　New　Hamburg。　　The　rocky　promontory　at　the　foot　of　which　the　town　is　built　is　covered　with　the　finest　arbor　vitae　forest　probably　in　existence。　　Six　miles　below；　on　west　bank；　is　the　important　city　of　Newburg；　one　of　the　termini　of　the　New　York　and　Erie　Railroad。　Four　miles　below；　the　river　narrows　and　presents　a　grand　view　of　the　north　entrance　of　the　Highlands；　with　the　Storm　King　Mountain　rising　fully　one　thousand　five　hundred　feet　above　the　tide。　The　early　Dutch　navigators　gave　to　this　peak　the　name　of　Boter…burg　（Butter…Hill）；　but　it　was　rechristened　Storm　King　by　the　　author　N。　P。　Willis；　whose　late　residence；　Idlewild；　commands　a　fine　view　of　Newburg　Bay。

When　past　the　Storm　King；　the　Crow…Nest　and　the　almost　perpendicular　front　of　Kidd's　Plug　Cliff　tower　aloft；　and　mark　the　spot　where　Kidd　（as　usual）　was　supposed　to　have　buried　a　　portion　of　that　immense　sum　of　money　with　which　popular　belief　invests　hundreds　of　localities　along　the　watercourses　of　the　continent。　　Now　the　Narrows　above　West　Point　were　entered　and　the　current　against　a　head…wind　made　the　passage　unusually　exciting。　The　paper　canoe　danced　over　the　boiling　expanse　of　water；　and　neared　the　west　shore　about　a　mile　above　the　United　States　Military　Academy；　when　a　shell；　from　a　gun　on　the　grounds　of　that　institution　burst　in　the　water　within　a　few　feet　of　the　boat。　I　now　observed　a　target　set　upon　a　little　flat　at　the　foot　of　a　gravelly　hill　close　to　the　beach。　As　a　second；　and　finally　a　third　shell　exploded　near　me；　I　rowed　into　the　rough　water；　much　　disgusted　with　cadet…practice　and　military　etiquette。　After　dark　the　canoe　was　landed　on　the　deck　of　a　schooner　which　was　discharging　slag　or　cinder　at　Fort　Montgomery　Landing。　　I　scrambled　up　the　hill　to　the　only　shelter　that　could　be　found；　a　small　country　store　owned　by　a　Captain　Conk　who　kept　entertainment　for　the　traveller。　Rough　fellows　and　old　crones　came　in　to　talk　about　the　spooks　that　had　been　seen　in　the　neighboring　hills。　　It　was　veritable　〃Sleepy　Hollow〃　talk。　The　physician　of　the　place；　they　said；　had　been　〃skert　clean　off　a　bridge　the　other　night。〃

Embarking　the　following　morning　from　this　weird　and　hilly　country；　that　prominent　natural　feature；　Anthony's　Nose；　which　was　located　on　the　opposite　shore；　strongly　appealed　to　my　　imagination　and　somewhat　excited　my　mirth。　　One　needs　a　powerful　imagination；　I　thought；　to　live　in　these　regions　where　the　native　element；　the　hill…folk；　dwell　so　fondly　and　earnestly　upon　the　ghostly　and　mysterious。　Three　miles　down　the　river；　Dunderberg；　〃the　thundering　mountain；〃　on　the　west　bank；　with　the　town　of　Peekskill　on　the　opposite　shore；　was　passed；　and　I　entered　Haverstraw　Bay；　the　widest　part　of　the　river。　〃Here；〃　says　the　historian；　〃the　fresh　and　salt　water　usually　contend；　most　equally；　for　the　mastery；　and　here　the　porpoise　is　often　seen　in　large　numbers　sporting　in　the　summer　sun。　Here　in　the　spring　vast　numbers　of　shad　are　caught　while　on　their　way　to　spawning…beds　in　　freshwater　coves。〃　Haverstraw　Bay　was　crossed；　and　Tarrytown　passed；　when　I　came　to　the　　picturesque　little　cottage　of　a　great　man　now　gone　from　among　us。　　Many　pleasant　memories　of　his　tales　rose　in　my　mind　as　I　looked　upon　Sunnyside；　the　home　of　Washington　Irving；　nestled　in　the　grove　of　living　green；　its　white　stuccoed　walls　glistening　in　the　bright　sunlight；　and　its　background　of　grand　villas　looming　up　on　every　side。　At　Irvington　Landing；　a　little　further　down　the　river；　I　went　ashore　to　pass　Sunday　with　friends；　and　on　the　Monday　following；　in　a　dense　fog；　proceeded　on　my　route　to　New　York。

Below　Irvington　the　far…famed　〃Palisades；〃　bold…faced　precipices　of　trap…rock；　offer　their　grandest　appearance　on　the　west　side　of　the　Hudson。　　These　singular　bluffs；　near　Hoboken；　present　a　perpendicular　front　of　three　hundred　or　four　hundred　feet　in　height。　Piles　of　broken　rock　rest　against　their　base：　the　contribution　of　the　cliffs　above　from　the　effects　of　frost　and　sun。

While　approaching　the　great　city　of　New　York；　strong　squalls　of　wind；　blowing　against　the　ebb…tide；　sent　swashy　waves　into　my　open　canoe；　the　sides　of　which；　amidships；　were　only　five　or　six　inches　above　water；　but　the　great　buoyancy　of　the　light　craft　and　its　very　smooth　exterior　created　but　little　friction　in　the　water　and　made　her　very　seaworthy；　when　carefully　watched　and　handled；　even　without　a　deck　of　canvas　or　wood。　　While　the　canoe　forged　ahead　through　the　troubled　waters；　and　the　breezes　loaded　with　the　saltness　of　the　sea　now　near　at　hand　struck　my　back；　I　confess　that　a　longing　to　reach　Philadelphia；　where　I　could　complete　my　outfit　and　increase　the　safety　of　my　little　craft；　gave　renewed　vigor　to　my　stroke　as　I　exchanged　the　quiet　atmosphere　of　the　country　for　the　smoke　and　noise　of　the　city。　　Every　instinct　was　now　challenged；　and　every　muscle　brought　into　action；　as　I　dodged　tug…boats；　steamers；　yachts；　and　vessels；　while　running　the　thoroughfare　along　the　crowded　wharves　between　New　York　on　one　side　and　Jersey　City　on　the　other。　　I　found　the　slips　between　the　piers　most　excellent　ports　of　refuge　at　times；　when　the　ferry…boats；　following　each　other　in　quick　succession；　made　the　river　with　its　angry　tide　boil　like　a　vortex。　The　task　soon　ended；　and　I　left　the　Hudson　at　Castle　Garden　and　entered　the　upper　bay　of　New　York　harbor。　　As　it　was　dark；　I　would　gladly　have　gone　ashore　for　the　night；　but　a　great　city　offers　no　inducement　for　a　canoeist　to　land　as　a　stranger　at　its　wharves。

A　much　more　pleasant　reception　awaited　me　down　on　Staten　Island；　a　gentleman　having　　notified　me　by　mail　that　he　would　welcome　the　　canoe　and　its　owner。　　The　ebb　had　ceased；　and　the　incoming　tide　was　being　already　felt　close　in　shore；　so　with　tide　and　wind　against　me；　and　the　darkness　of　night　settling　down　gloomily　upon　the　wide　bay；　I　pulled　a　strong　oar　for　five　miles　to　the　entrance　of　Kill　Van　Kull　Strait；　which　separates　Staten　Island　from　New　Jersey　and　connects　the　upper　bay　with　Raritan　Bay。

The　bright　beams　from　the　light…house　on　Robbin's　Reef；　which　is　one　mile　and　a　quarter　off　the　entrance　of　the　strait；　guided　me　on　my　course。　　The　head…sea；　in　little；　splashy　waves；　began　to　fill　my　canoe。　The　water　soon　reached　the　foot…rest；　but　there　was　no　time　to　stop　to　bale　out　the　boat；　for　a　friendly　current　was　near；　and　if　once　reached；　my　little　craft　would　enter　smoother　waters。　　The　flood　which　poured　into　the　mouth　of　Kill　Van　Kull　soon　caught　my　boat；　and　the　head…tide　was　changed　to　a　favorable　　current　which　carried　me　in　its　strong　arms　far　into　the　salt…water　strait；　and　I　reached　West　New　Brighton；　along　the　high　banks　of　which　I　found　my　haven　of　rest。　　Against　the　sky　I　traced　the　outlines　of　my　land…mark；　three　　poplars；　standing　sentinel…like　before　the　house　of　the　gentleman　who　had　so　kindly　offered　me　his　hospitality。　The　canoe　was　emptied　of　its　　shifting　liquid　ballast　and　carefully　sponged　dry。　My　host　and　his　son　carried　it　into　the　main　hall　of　the　mansion　and　placed　it　upon　the　floor；　where　the　entire　household　gathered；　an　　admiring　group。　　Proud；　indeed；　might　my　dainty　craft　have　been　of　the　appreciation　of　so　lovely　a　company。　　her　master　fully　appreciated　the　generous　board　of　his　kind　host；　and　in　present　comfort　soon　forgot　past　trials　and　his　wet　pull　across　the　upper　bay　of　New　York　harbor。

My　work　for　the　next　day；　October　27th；　was　the　navigation　of　the　interesting　strait　of　the　old　Dutch　settlers　and　the　Raritan　River；　of　New　Jersey；　as　far　as　New　Brunswick。　　The　average　width　of　Kill　Van　Kull　is　three…eighths　of　a　mile。　From　its　entrance；　at　Constable's　Point；　to　the　mouth　of　Newark　Bay；　which　enters　it　on　the　Jersey　side；　it　is　three　miles；　and　nearly　two　miles　across　the　bay　to　Elizabethport。　　Bergen　Point　is　on　the　east　and　Elizabethport　on　the　west　entrance　of　the　bay；　while　on　Staten　Island；　New　Brighton；　Factoryville；　and　North　Shore；　furnish　homes　f