unbeaten tracks in japan-第57章
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On the way I saw two Ainos land through the surf in a canoe； in
which they had paddled for nearly 100 miles。 A river canoe is dug
out of a single log； and two men can fashion one in five days； but
on examining this one； which was twenty…five feet long； I found
that it consisted of two halves； laced together with very strong
bark fibre for their whole length； and with high sides also laced
on。 They consider that they are stronger for rough sea and surf
work when made in two parts。 Their bark…fibre rope is beautifully
made； and they twist it of all sizes； from twine up to a nine…inch
hawser。
Beautiful as the blue ocean was； I had too much of it； for the
horses were either walking in a lather of sea foam or were crowded
between the cliff and the sea； every larger wave breaking over my
foot and irreverently splashing my face； and the surges were so
loud…tongued and incessant； throwing themselves on the beach with a
tremendous boom； and drawing the shingle back with them with an
equally tremendous rattle； so impolite and noisy； bent only on
showing their strength； reckless； rude； self…willed； and
inconsiderate！ This purposeless display of force； and this
incessant waste of power； and the noisy self…assertion in both；
approach vulgarity！
Towards evening we crossed the last of the bridgeless rivers； and
put up at Mori； which I left three weeks before； and I was very
thankful to have accomplished my object without disappointment；
disaster； or any considerable discomfort。 Had I not promised to
return Ito to his master by a given day； I should like to spend the
next six weeks in the Yezo wilds； for the climate is good； the
scenery beautiful； and the objects of interest are many。
Another splendid day favoured my ride from Mori to Togenoshita；
where I remained for the night； and I had exceptionally good horses
for both days； though the one which Ito rode； while going at a
rapid 〃scramble；〃 threw himself down three times and rolled over to
rid himself from flies。 I had not admired the wood between Mori
and Ginsainoma （the lakes） on the sullen； grey day on which I saw
it before； but this time there was an abundance of light and shadow
and solar glitter； and many a scarlet spray and crimson trailer；
and many a maple flaming in the valleys； gladdened me with the
music of colour。 From the top of the pass beyond the lakes there
is a grand view of the volcano in all its nakedness； with its lava
beds and fields of pumice； with the lakes of Onuma； Konuma； and
Ginsainoma； lying in the forests at its feet； and from the top of
another hill there is a remarkable view of windy Hakodate； with its
headland looking like Gibraltar。 The slopes of this hill are
covered with the Aconitum Japonicum； of which the Ainos make their
arrow poison。
The yadoya at Togenoshita was a very pleasant and friendly one； and
when Ito woke me yesterday morning； saying； 〃Are you sorry that
it's the last morning？ I am；〃 I felt we had one subject in common；
for I was very sorry to end my pleasant Yezo tour； and very sorry
to part with the boy who had made himself more useful and
invaluable even than before。 It was most wearisome to have
Hakodate in sight for twelve miles； so near across the bay； so far
across the long； flat； stony strip which connects the headland upon
which it is built with the mainland。 For about three miles the
road is rudely macadamised； and as soon as the bare…footed horses
get upon it they seem lame of all their legs； they hang back；
stumbling； dragging； edging to the side； and trying to run down
every opening； so that when we got into the interminable main
street I sent Ito on to the Consulate for my letters； and
dismounted； hoping that as it was raining I should not see any
foreigners； but I was not so lucky； for first I met Mr。 Dening； and
then； seeing the Consul and Dr。 Hepburn coming down the road；
evidently dressed for dining in the flag…ship； and looking spruce
and clean； I dodged up an alley to avoid them； but they saw me； and
did not wonder that I wished to escape notice； for my old betto's
hat； my torn green paper waterproof； and my riding…skirt and boots；
were not only splashed but CAKED with mud； and I had the general
look of a person 〃fresh from the wilds。〃 I。 L。 B。
ITINERARY OF TOUR IN YEZO。
Hakodate to
No。 of Houses。
Jap。 Aino。 Ri。 Cho。
Ginsainoma 4 7 18
Mori 105 4
Mororan 57 11
Horobets 18 47 5 1
Shiraoi 11 51 6 32
Tomakomai 38 5 21
Yubets 7 3 3 5
Sarufuto 63 7 5
Biratori 53 5
Mombets 27 5 1
From Horobets to
Jap。 Aino。 Ri。 Cho。
Old Mororan 9 30 4 28
Usu 3 99 6 2
Lebunge 1 27 5 22
Oshamambe 56 38 6 34
Yamakushinai 40 4 18
Otoshibe 40 2 3
Mori 105 3 29
Togenoshita 55 6 7
Hakodate 37；000 souls 3 29
About 358 English miles。
LETTER XLII
Pleasant Last ImpressionsThe Japanese JunkIto DisappearsMy
Letter of Thanks。
HAKODATE； YEZO； September 14； 1878。
This is my last day in Yezo； and the sun； shining brightly over the
grey and windy capital； is touching the pink peaks of Komono…taki
with a deeper red； and is brightening my last impressions； which；
like my first； are very pleasant。 The bay is deep blue； flecked
with violet shadows； and about sixty junks are floating upon it at
anchor。 There are vessels of foreign rig too； but the wan； pale
junks lying motionless； or rolling into the harbour under their
great white sails； fascinate me as when I first saw them in the
Gulf of Yedo。 They are antique…looking and picturesque； but are
fitter to give interest to a picture than to battle with stormy
seas。
Most of the junks in the bay are about 120 tons burthen； 100 feet
long； with an extreme beam； far aft； of twenty…five feet。 The bow
is long； and curves into a lofty stem； like that of a Roman galley；
finished with a beak head； to secure the forestay of the mast。
This beak is furnished with two large； goggle eyes。 The mast is a
ponderous spar； fifty feet high； composed of pieces of pine；
pegged； glued； and hooped together。 A heavy yard is hung
amidships。 The sail is an oblong of widths of strong； white cotton
artistically 〃PUCKERED；〃 not sewn together； but laced vertically；
leaving a decorative lacing six inches wide between each two
widths。 Instead of reefing in a strong wind； a width is unlaced；
so as to reduce the canvas vertically； not horizontally。 Two blue
spheres commonly adorn the sail。 The mast is placed well abaft；
and to tack or veer it is only necessary to reverse the sheet。
When on a wind the long bow and nose serve as a head…sail。 The
high； square； piled…up stern； with its antique carving； and the
sides with their lattice…work； are wonderful； together with the
extraordinary size and projection of the rudder； and the length of
the tiller。 The anchors are of grapnel shape； and the larger junks
have from six to eight arranged on the fore…end； giving one an idea
of bad holding…ground along the coast。 They really are much like
the shape of a Chinese 〃small…footed〃 woman's shoe； and look very
unmanageable。 They are of unpainted wood； and have a wintry；
ghastly look about them。 ｛22｝
I have parted with Ito finally to…day； with great regret。 He has
served me faithfully； and on most common topics I can get much more
information through him than from any foreigner。 I miss him
already； though he insisted on packing for me as usual； and put all
my things in order。 His cleverness is something surprising。 He
goes to a good； manly master； who will help him to be good and set
him a virtuous example； and that is a satisfaction。 Before he left
he wrote a letter for me to the Governor of Mororan； thanking him
on my behalf for the use of the kuruma and other courtesies。
I。 L。 B。
LETTER XLIII
Pleasant ProspectsA Miserable DisappointmentCaught in a
TyphoonA Dense FogAlarmist RumoursA Welcome at TokiyoThe
Last of the Mutineers。
H。 B。 M。's LEGATION； YEDO； September 21。
A placid sea； which after much disturbance had sighed itself to
rest； and a high； steady barometer promised a fifty hours' passage
to Yokohama； and when Dr。 and Mrs。 Hepburn and I left Hakodate； by
moonlight； on the night of the 14th； as the only passengers in the
Hiogo Maru； Captain Moore； her genial； pleasant master；
congratulated us on the rapid and delightful passage before us； and
we separated at midnight with many projects for pleasant
intercourse and occupation。
But a more miserable voyage I never made； and it was not until the
afternoon of the 17th that we crawled forth from our cabins to
speak to each other。 On the second day out； great heat came on
with suffocating closeness； the mercury rose to 85 degrees； and in
lat。 38 degrees 0' N。 and long。 141 degrees 30' E。 we encountered
a 〃typhoon；〃 otherwise a 〃cyclone；〃 otherwise a 〃revolving
hurricane；〃 which lasted for twenty…five hours； and 〃jettisoned〃
the cargo。 Captain Moor has given me a very interesting diagram of
it； showing the attempts which he made to avoid its vortex； through
which our course would have taken us； and to keep as much outside
it as possible。 The typhoon was succeeded by a dense fog； so that
our fifty…hour passage became seventy…two hours； and we landed at
Yokohama near upon midnight of the 17th； to find traces of much
disaster； the whole low…lying country flooded； the railway between
Yokohama and the capital impassable； great anxiety about the rice
crop； the air full of alarmist rumours； and paper money； which was
about par when I arrived in May； at a discount of 13 per cent！ In
the early part of this year （1880） it has touched 42 per cent。
Late in the afternoon the railroad was re…opened； and I came here
with Mr。 Wilkinson； glad to settle down to a period of rest and
ease under this hospitable roof。 The afternoon was bright and
sunny； and Tokiyo was looking its best。 The long lines of yashikis
looked handsome； the castle moat was so full of the gigantic leaves
of the lotus； that the water was hardly visible； the grass
embankments of the upper moat were a brilliant green； the pines on
their summits stood out boldly against the clear sky； the hill on
which the Legation stands looked dry and cheerful； and； better than
all； I had a most kindly welcome from those who have made this
house my home in a strange land。
Tokiyo is tranquil； that is； it is disturbed only by fears for the
rice crop； and by the fall in satsu。 The military mutineers have
been tried； popular rumour says tortured； and fifty…two have been
shot。 The summer has been the worst for some years； and now dark
heat； moist heat； and nearly ceasless rain p
