three men on the bummel(三个闲逛的人)-第33章
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glimpse of it。 Myself； I am glad to see it。 It proves to me that we are
not utterly lost。〃
〃It ought to be the other side of us；〃 said Harris。
〃It will be in another hour or so；〃 said George； 〃if we keep on。〃
I said little myself； I was vexed with both of them； but I was glad to
notice George evidently growing cross with Harris。 It was absurd of
Harris to fancy he could find the way by the sun。
〃I wish I knew；〃 said Harris； thoughtfully； 〃for certain whether that
bisecting line points to the north or to the south。〃
〃I should make up my mind about it；〃 said George； 〃it's an important
point。〃
〃It's impossible it can be the north；〃 said Harris； 〃and I'll tell you why。〃
〃You needn't trouble；〃 said George； 〃I am quite prepared to believe it
isn't。〃
〃You said just now it was；〃 said Harris； reproachfully。
〃I said nothing of the sort；〃 retorted George。 〃I said you said it was
a very different thing。 If you think it isn't； let's go the other way。 It'll be
a change； at all events。〃
So Harris worked things out according to the contrary calculation； and
again we plunged into the wood； and again after half an hour's stiff
climbing we came in view of that same village。 True； we were a little
higher； and this time it lay between us and the sun。
〃I think；〃 said George； as he stood looking down at it； 〃this is the best
view we've had of it； as yet。 There is only one other point from which we
can see it。 After that； I propose we go down into it and get some rest。〃
〃I don't believe it's the same village；〃 said Harris； 〃it can't be。〃
〃There's no mistaking that church；〃 said George。 〃But maybe it is a
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case on all fours with that Prague statue。 Possibly； the authorities
hereabout have had made some life…sized models of that village； and have
stuck them about the Forest to see where the thing would look best。
Anyhow； which way do we go now？〃
〃I don't know；〃 said Harris； 〃and I don't care。 I have done my best；
you've done nothing but grumble； and confuse me。〃
〃I may have been critical；〃 admitted George 〃but look at the thing
from my point of view。 One of you says he's got an instinct； and leads
me to a wasps' nest in the middle of a wood。〃
〃I can't help wasps building in a wood；〃 I replied。
〃I don't say you can；〃 answered George。 〃I am not arguing； I am
merely stating incontrovertible facts。 The other one； who leads me up
and down hill for hours on scientific principles； doesn't know the north
from the south； and is never quite sure whether he's turned round or
whether he hasn't。 Personally； I profess to no instincts beyond the
ordinary； nor am I a scientist。 But two fields off I can see a man。 I am
going to offer him the worth of the hay he is cutting； which I estimate at
one mark fifty pfennig； to leave his work； and lead me to within sight of
Todtmoos。 If you two fellows like to follow； you can。 If not； you can
start another system and work it out by yourselves。〃
George's plan lacked both originality and aplomb； but at the moment it
appealed to us。 Fortunately； we had worked round to a very short
distance away from the spot where we had originally gone wrong； with the
result that； aided by the gentleman of the scythe； we recovered the road；
and reached Todtmoos four hours later than we had calculated to reach it；
with an appetite that took forty… five minutes' steady work in silence to
abate。
From Todtmoos we had intended to walk down to the Rhine； but
having regard to our extra exertions of the morning； we decided to
promenade in a carriage； as the French would say： and for this purpose
hired a picturesque…looking vehicle； drawn by a horse that I should have
called barrel…bodied but for contrast with his driver； in comparison with
whom he was angular。 In Germany every vehicle is arranged for a pair
of horses； but drawn generally by one。 This gives to the equipage a lop…
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sided appearance； according to our notions； but it is held here to indicate
style。 The idea to be conveyed is that you usually drive a pair of horses；
but that for the moment you have mislaid the other one。 The German
driver is not what we should call a first…class whip。 He is at his best
when he is asleep。 Then； at all events； he is harmless； and the horse
being； generally speaking； intelligent and experienced； progress under
these conditions is comparatively safe。 If in Germany they could only
train the horse to collect the money at the end of the journey； there would
be no need for a coachman at all。 This would be a distinct relief to the
passenger； for when the German coachman is awake and not cracking his
whip he is generally occupied in getting himself into trouble or out of it。
He is better at the former。 Once I recollect driving down a steep Black
Forest hill with a couple of ladies。 It was one of those roads winding
corkscrew…wise down the slope。 The hill rose at an angle of seventy…five
on the off…side； and fell away at an angle of seventy…five on the near…side。
We were proceeding very comfortably； the driver； we were happy to notice；
with his eyes shut； when suddenly something； a bad dream or indigestion；
awoke him。 He seized the reins； and； by an adroit movement； pulled the
near…side horse over the edge； where it clung； half supported by the traces。
Our driver did not appear in the least annoyed or surprised； both horses； I
also； noticed； seemed equally used to the situation。 We got out； and he
got down。 He took from under the seat a huge clasp…knife； evidently kept
there for the purpose； and deftly cut the traces。 The horse； thus released；
rolled over and over until he struck the road again some fifty feet below。
There he regained his feet and stood waiting for us。 We re…entered the
carriage and descended with the single horse until we came to him。 There；
with the help of some bits of string； our driver harnessed him again； and
we continued on our way。 What impressed me was the evident
accustomedness of both driver and horses to this method of working down
a hill。
Evidently to them it appeared a short and convenient cut。 I should
not have been surprised had the man suggested our strapping ourselves in；
and then rolling over and over； carriage and all； to the bottom。
Another peculiarity of the German coachman is that he never attempts
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to pull in or to pull up。 He regulates his rate of speed； not by the pace of
the horse； but by manipulation of the brake。 For eight miles an hour he
puts it on slightly； so that it only scrapes the wheel； producing a
continuous sound as of the sharpening of a saw； for four miles an hour he
screws it down harder； and you travel to an accompaniment of groans and
shrieks； suggestive of a symphony of dying pigs。 When he desires to
come to a full stop； he puts it on to its full。 If his brake be a good one； he
calculates he can stop his carriage； unless the horse be an extra powerful
animal； in less than twice its own length。 Neither the German driver nor
the German horse knows； apparently； that you can stop a carriage by any
other method。 The German horse continues to pull with his full strength
until he finds it impossible to move the vehicle another inch； then he rests。
Horses of other countries are quite willing to stop when the idea is
suggested to them。 I have known horses content to go even quite slowly。
But your German horse； seemingly； is built for one particular speed； and is
unable to depart from it。 I am stating nothing but the literal； unadorned
truth； when I say I have seen a German coachman； with the reins lying
loose over the splash…board； working his brake with both hands； in terror
lest he would not be in time to avoid a collision。
At Waldshut； one of those little sixteenth…century towns through which
the Rhine flows during its earlier course； we came across that exceedingly
common object of the Continent： the travelling Briton grieved and
surprised at the unacquaintance of the foreigner with the subtleties of the
English language。 When we entered the station he was； in very fair
English； though with a slight Somersetshire accent； explaining to a porter
for the tenth time； as he informed us； the simple fact that though he
himself had a ticket for Donaueschingen； and wanted to go to
Donaueschingen； to see the source of the Danube； which is not there；
though they tell you it is； he wished his bicycle to be sent on to Engen and
his bag to Constance； there to await his arrival。 He was hot and angry
with the effort of the thing。 The porter was a young man in years； but at
the moment looked old and miserable。 I offered my services。 I wish
now I had notthough not so fervently； I expect； as he； the speechless one；
came subsequently to wish this。 All three routes； so the porter explained
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to us； were complicated； necessitating changing and re…changing。 There
was not much time for calm elucidation； as our own train was starting in a
few minutes。 The man himself was volublealways a mistake when
