the complete writings-2-第6章

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；　three　of　which　are　open　to　the　sightseer。　　Here　the　ancient　and　modern　Dutch　painters　are　seen　at　their　best；　and　I　know　of　no　richer　feast　of　this　sort。　　Here　Rembrandt　is　to　be　seen　in　his　glory；　here　Van　der　Helst；　Jan　Steen；　Gerard　Douw；　Teniers　the　younger；　Hondekoeter；　Weenix；　Ostade；　Cuyp；　and　other　names　as　familiar。　　These　men　also　painted　what　they　saw；　the　people；　the　landscapes；　with　which　they　were　familiar。　　It　was　a　strange　pleasure　to　meet　again　and　again　in　the　streets　of　the　town　the　faces；　or　types　of　them；　that　we　had　just　seen　on　canvas　so　old。

In　the　Low　Countries；　the　porters　have　the　grand　title　of　commissionaires。　　They　carry　trunks　and　bundles；　black　boots；　and　act　as　valets　de　place。　　As　guides；　they　are　quite　as　intolerable　in　Amsterdam　as　their　brethren　in　other　cities。　　Many　of　them　are　Jews；　and　they　have　a　keen　eye　for　a　stranger。　　The　moment　he　sallies　from　his　hotel；　there　is　a　guide。　　Let　him　hesitate　for　an　instant　in　his　walk；　either　to　look　at　something　or　to　consult　his　map；　or　let　him　ask　the　way；　and　he　will　have　a　half　dozen　of　the　persistent　guild　upon　him；　and　they　cannot　easily　be　shaken　off。　　The　afternoon　we　arrived；　we　had　barely　got　into　our　rooms　at　Brack's　Oude　Doelan；　when　a　gray…headed　commissionaire　knocked　at　our　door；　and　offered　his　services　to　show　us　the　city。　　We　deferred　the　pleasure　of　his　valuable　society。　　Shortly；　when　we　came　down　to　the　street；　a　smartly　dressed　Israelite　took　off　his　hat　to　us；　and　offered　to　show　us　the　city。　　We　declined　with　impressive　politeness；　and　walked　on。　The　Jew　accompanied　us；　and　attempted　conversation；　in　which　we　did　not　join。　　He　would　show　us　everything　for　a　guilder　an　hour；for　half　a　guilder。　　Having　plainly　told　the　Jew　that　we　did　not　desire　his　attendance；　he　crossed　to　the　other　side　of　the　street；　and　kept　us　in　sight；　biding　his　opportunity。　　At　the　end　of　the　street；　we　hesitated　a　moment　whether　to　cross　the　bridge　or　turn　up　by　the　broad　canal。　　The　Jew　was　at　our　side　in　a　moment；　having　divined　that　we　were　on　the　way　to　the　Dam　and　the　palace。　　He　obligingly　pointed　the　way；　and　began　to　walk　with　us；　entering　into　conversation。　　We　told　him　pointedly；　that　we　did　not　desire　his　services；　and　requested　him　to　leave　us。　　He　still　walked　in　our　direction；　with　the　air　of　one　much　injured；　but　forgiving；　and　was　more　than　once　beside　us　with　a　piece　of　information。　　When　we　finally　turned　upon　him　with　great　fierceness；　and　told　him　to　begone；　he　regarded　us　with　a　mournful　and　pitying　expression；　and　as　the　last　act　of　one　who　returned　good　for　evil；　before　he　turned　away；　pointed　out　to　us　the　next　turn　we　were　to　make。　　I　saw　him　several　times　afterward；　and　I　once　had　occasion　to　say　to　him；　that　I　had　already　told　him　I　would　not　employ　him；　and　he　always　lifted　his　hat；　and　looked　at　me　with　a　forgiving　smile。　　I　felt　that　I　had　deeply　wronged　him。　　As　we　stood　by　the　statue；　looking　up　at　the　eastern　pediment　of　the　palace；　another　of　the　tribe　（they　all　speak　a　little　English）　asked　me　if　I　wished　to　see　the　palace。　　I　told　him　I　was　looking　at　it；　and　could　see　it　quite　distinctly。　　Half　a　dozen　more　crowded　round；　and　proffered　their　aid。　　Would　I　like　to　go　into　the　palace　？　　They　knew；　and　I　knew；　that　they　could　do　nothing　more　than　go　to　the　open　door；　through　which　they　would　not　be　admitted；　and　that　I　could　walk　across　the　open　square　to　that；　and　enter　alone。　　I　asked　the　first　speaker　if　he　wished　to　go　into　the　palace。　Oh；　yes！　　he　would　like　to　go。　　I　told　him　he　had　better　go　at　once；…　…they　had　all　better　go　in　together　and　see　the　palace；it　was　an　excellent　opportunity。　　They　seemed　to　see　the　point；　and　slunk　away　to　the　other　side　to　wait　for　another　stranger。

I　find　that　this　plan　works　very　well　with　guides：　when　I　see　one　approaching；　I　at　once　offer　to　guide　him。　　It　is　an　idea　from　which　he　does　not　rally　in　time　to　annoy　us。　　The　other　day　I　offered　to　show　a　persistent　fellow　through　an　old　ruin　for　fifty　kreuzers：　as　his　price　for　showing　me　was　forty…eight；　we　did　not　come　to　terms。　One　of　the　most　remarkable　guides；　by　the　way；　we　encountered　at　Stratford…on…Avon。　　As　we　walked　down　from　the　Red　Horse　Inn　to　the　church；　a　full…grown　boy　came　bearing　down　upon　us　in　the　most　wonderful　fashion。　　Early　rickets；　I　think；　had　been　succeeded　by　the　St。　Vitus'　dance。　　He　came　down　upon　us　sideways；　his　legs　all　in　a　tangle；　and　his　right　arm；　bent　and　twisted；　going　round　and　round；　as　if　in　vain　efforts　to　get　into　his　pocket；　his　fingers　spread　out　in　impotent　desire　to　clutch　something。　　There　was　great　danger　that　he　would　run　into　us；　as　he　was　like　a　steamer　with　only　one　side…wheel　and　no　rudder。　　He　came　up　puffing　and　blowing；　and　offered　to　show　us　Shakespeare's　tomb。　　Shade　of　the　past；　to　be　accompanied　to　thy　resting…place　by　such　an　object！　　But　he　fastened　himself　on　us；　and　jerked　and　hitched　along　in　his　side…wheel　fashion。　　We　declined　his　help。　　He　paddled　on；　twisting　himself　into　knots；　and　grinning　in　the　most　friendly　manner。　　We　told　him　to　begone。　　〃I　am；〃　said　he；　wrenching　himself　into　a　new　contortion；　〃I　am　what　showed　Artemus　Ward　round　Stratford。〃　This　information　he　repeated　again　and　again；　as　if　we　could　not　resist　him　after　we　had　comprehended　that。　　We　shook　him　off；　but　when　we　returned　at　sundown　across　the　fields；　from　a　visit　to　Anne　Hathaway's　cottage；　we　met　the　sidewheeler　cheerfully　towing　along　a　large　party；　upon　whom　he　had　fastened。

The　people　of　Amsterdam　are　only　less　queer　than　their　houses。　　The　men　dress　in　a　solid；　old…fashioned　way。　　Every　one　wears　the　straight；　high…crowned　silk　hat　that　went　out　with　us　years　ago；　and　the　cut　of　clothing　of　even　the　most　buckish　young　fellows　is　behind　the　times。　　I　stepped　into　the　Exchange；　an　immense　interior；　that　will　hold　five　thousand　people；　where　the　stock…gamblers　meet　twice　a　day。　　It　was　very　different　from　the　terrible　excitement　and　noise　of　the　Paris　Bourse。　　There　were　three　or　four　thousand　brokers　there；　yet　there　was　very　little　noise　and　no　confusion。　　No　stocks　were　called；　and　there　was　no　central　ring　for　bidding；　as　at　the　Bourse　and　the　New　York　Gold　Room；　but　they　quietly　bought　and　sold。　　Some　of　the　leading　firms　had　desks　or　tables　at　the　side；　and　there　awaited　orders。　　Everything　was　phlegmatically　and　decorously　done。

In　the　streets　one　still　sees　peasant　women　in　native　costume。　　There　was　a　group　to…day　that　I　saw　by　the　river；　evidently　just　crossed　over　from　North　Holland。　　They　wore　short　dresses；　with　the　upper　skirt　looped　up；　and　had　broad　hips　and　big　waists。　　On　the　head　was　a　cap　with　a　fall　of　lace　behind；　across　the　back　of　the　head　a　broad　band　of　silver　（or　tin）　three　inches　broad；　which　terminated　in　front　and　just　above　the　ears　in　bright　pieces　of　metal　about　two　inches　square；　like　a　horse's　blinders；　Only　flaring　more　from　the　head；　across　the　forehead　and　just　above　the　eyes　a　gilt　band；　embossed；　on　the　temples　two　plaits　of　hair　in　circular　coils；　and　on　top　of　all　a　straw　hat；　like　an　old…fashioned　bonnet）　stuck　on　hindside　before。　Spiral　coils　of　brass　wire；　coming　to　a　point　in　front；　are　also　worn　on　each　side　of　the　head　by　many。　　Whether　they　are　for　ornament　or　defense；　I　could　not　determine。

Water　is　brought　into　the　city　now　from　Haarlem；　and　introduced　into　the　best　houses；　but　it　is　still　sold　in　the　streets　by　old　men　and　women；　who　sit　at　the　faucets。　　I　saw　one　dried…up　old　grandmother；　who　sat　in　her　little　caboose；　fighting　away　the　crowd　of　dirty　children　who　tried　to　steal　a　drink　when　her　back　was　turned；　keeping　count　of　the　pails　of　water　carried　away　with　a　piece　of　chalk　on　the　iron　pipe；　and　trying　to　darn　her　stocking　at　the　same　time。　　Odd　things　strike　you　at　every　turn。　　There　is　a　sledge　drawn　by　one　poor　horse；　and　on　the　front　of　it　is　a　cask　of　water　pierced　with　holes；　so　that　the　water　squirts　out　and　wets　the　stones；　making　it　easier　sliding　for　the　runners。　　It　is　an　ingenious　people！

After　all；　we　drove　out　five　miles　to　Broek；　the　clean　village；　across　the　Y；　up　the　canal；　over　flatness　flattened。　　Broek　is　a　humbug；　as　almost　all　show　places　are。　　A　wooden　little　village　on　a　stagnant　canal；　into　which　carriages　do　not　drive；　and　where　the　front　doors　of　the　houses　are　never　open；　a　dead；　uninteresting　place；　neat　but　not　specially　pretty；　where　you　are　shown　into　one　house　got　up　for　the　purpose；　which　looks　inside　like　a　crockery　shop；　and　has　a　stiff　little　garden　with　box　trained　in　shapes　of　animals　and　furniture。　　A　roomy…breeched　young　Dutchman；　whose　trousers　went　up　to　his　neck；　and　his　hat　to　a　peak；　walked　before　us　in　slow　and　cow…like　fashion；　and　showed　us　the　place；　especially　some　horrid　pleasure…grounds；　with　an　image　of　an　old　man　reading　in　a　summer…house；　and　an　old　couple　in　a　cottage　who　sat　at　a　table　and　worked；　or　ate；　I　forget　which；　by　clock…work；　while　a　dog　barked　by　the　same　means。　　In　a　pond　was　a　wooden　swan　sitting　on　a　stick；　the　water　having　receded；　and　left　it　high　and　dry。　　Yet　the　trip　is　worth　while　for　the　view　of　the　country　and　the　people　on　the　way：　men　and　women　towing　boats　on　the　canals；　the　red…tiled　houses　painted　green；　and　in　the　distance　the　villages；　with　their　spires　and　pleasing　mixture　of　brown；　green；　and　red　tints；　are　very　picturesque。　　The　best　thing　that　I　saw；　however；　was　a　traditional　Dutchman　walking　on　the　high　bank　of　a　canal；　with　soft　hat；　short　pipe；　and　breeches　that　came　to　the　armpits　above；　and　a　little　below　the　knees；　and　were　broad　enough　about　the　seat　and　thighs　to　carry　his　no　doubt　numerous　family。　　He　made　a　fine　figure　against　the　sky。




COLOGNE　AND　ST。　URSULA

It　is　a　relief　to　get　out　of　Holland　and　into　a　country　nearer　to　hills。　　The　people　also　seem　more　obliging。　　In　Cologne；　a　brown…cheeked　girl　pointed　us　out　the　way　without　waiting　for　a　kreuzer。　　Perhaps　the　women　have　more　to　busy　themselves　about　in　the　cities；　and　are　not　so　curious　about　passers…by。　　We　rarely　see　a　reflector　to　exhibit　us　to　the　occupants　of　the　second…story　windows。　In　all　the　cities　of　Belgium　and　Holland　the　ladies　have　small　mirrors；　with　reflectors；　fastened　to　their　windows；　so　that　they　can　see　everybody　who　passes；　without　putting　their　heads　out。　　I　trust　we　are　not　inverted　or　thrown　out　of　shape　when　we　are　thus　caught　up　and　cast　into　my　lady's　chamber。　　Cologne　has　a　cheerful　look；　for　the　Rhine　here　is　wide　and　promising；　and　as　for　the　〃smells；〃　they　are　certainly　not　so　many　nor　so　vile　as　those　at　Mainz。

Our　windows　at　the　hotel　looked　out　on　the　finest　front　of　the　cathedral。　　If　the　Devil　really　built　it；　he　is　to　be　credited　with　one　good　thing；　and　it　is　now　likely　to　be　finished；　in　spite　of　him。　Large　as　it　is；　it　is　on　the　exterior　not　so　impressive　as　that　at　Amiens；　but　within　it　has　a　magnificence　born　of　a　vast　design　and　the　most　harmonious　proportions；　and　the　grand　effect　is　not　broken　by　any　subdivision　but　that　of　the　choir。　　Behind　the　altar　and　in　front　of　the　chapel；　where　lie　the　remains　of　the　Wise　Men　of　the　East　who　came　to　worship　the　Child；　or；　as　thev　are　called；　the　Three　Kings　of　Cologne；　we　walked　over　a　stone　in　the　pavement　under　which　is　the　heart　of　Mary　de　Medicis：　the　remainder　o