the complete writings-2-第43章

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ts　upon　the　windy　terraces；　and　stand；　arms　akimbo；　staring　at　us；　and　not　seldom　hailing　us　in　harsh　voices。　　Their　sole　dress　is　often　a　single　split　and　torn　gown；　not　reaching　to　the　bare　knees；　evidently　the　original　of　those　in　the　Naples　ballet　（it　will；　no　doubt；　be　different　when　those　creatures　exchange　the　ballet　for　the　ballot）；　and；　with　their　tangled　locks　and　dirty　faces；　they　seem　rather　beasts　than　women。　　Are　their　husbands　brigands；　and　are　they　in　wait　for　us　in　the　chestnut…grove　yonder？

The　grove　is　charming；　and　the　men　we　meet　there　gathering　sticks　are　not　so　surly　as　the　women。　　They　point　the　way；　and　when　we　emerge　from　the　wood；　St。　Maria　a　Castello　is　before　us　on　a　height；　its　white　and　red　church　shining　in　the　sun。　　We　climb　up　to　it。　　In　front　is　a　broad；　flagged　terrace；　and　on　the　edge　are　deep　wells　in　the　rock；　from　which　we　draw　cool　water。　　Plentifully　victualed；　one　could　stand　a　siege　here；　and　perhaps　did　in　the　gamey　Middle　Ages。　Monk　or　soldier　need　not　wish　a　pleasanter　place　to　lounge。　Adjoining　the　church；　but　lower；　is　a　long；　low　building　with　three　rooms；　at　once　house　and　stable；　the　stable　in　the　center；　though　all　of　them　have　hay　in　the　lofts。　　The　rooms　do　not　communicate。　　That　is　the　whole　of　the　town　of　St。　Maria　a　Castello。

In　one　of　the　apartments　some　rough…looking　peasants　are　eating　dinner；　a　frugal　meal：　a　dish　of　unclean　polenta；　a　plate　of　grated　cheese；　a　basket　of　wormy　figs；　and　some　sour　red　wine；　no　bread；　no　meat。　　They　looked　at　us　askance；　and　with　no　sign　of　hospitality。　We　made　friends；　however；　with　the　ragged　children；　one　of　whom　took　great　delight　in　exhibiting　his　litter　of　puppies；　and　we　at　length　so　far　worked　into　the　good　graces　of　the　family　that　the　mother　was　prevailed　upon　to　get　us　some　milk　and　eggs。　　I　followed　the　woman　into　one　of　the　apartments　to　superintend　the　cooking　of　the　eggs。　It　was　a　mere　den；　with　an　earth　floor。　　A　fire　of　twigs　was　kindled　against　the　farther　wall；　and　a　little　girl；　half…naked；　carrying　a　baby　still　more　economically　clad；　was　stooping　down　to　blow　the　smudge　into　a　flame。　　The　smoke；　some　of　it；　went　over　our　heads　out　at　the　door。　　We　boiled　the　eggs。　　We　desired　salt；　and　the　woman　brought　us　pepper　in　the　berry。　　We　insisted　on　salt；　and　at　length　got　the　rock　variety；　which　we　pounded　on　the　rocks。　　We　ate　our　eggs　and　drank　our　milk　on　the　terrace；　with　the　entire　family　interested　spectators。　　The　men　were　the　hardest…looking　ruffians　we　had　met　yet：　they　were　making　a　bit　of　road　near　by；　but　they　seemed　capable　of　turning　their　hands　to　easier　money…getting；　and　there　couldn't　be　a　more　convenient　place　than　this。

When　our　repast　was　over；　and　I　had　drunk　a　glass　of　wine　with　the　proprietor；　I　offered　to　pay　him；　tendering　what　I　knew　was　a　fair　price　in　this　region。　　With　some　indignation　of　gesture；　he　refused　it；　intimating　that　it　was　too　little。　　He　seemed　to　be　seeking　an　excuse　for　a　quarrel　with　us；　so　I　pocketed　the　affront；　money　and　all；　and　turned　away。　　He　appeared　to　be　surprised；　and　going　indoors　presently　came　out　with　a　bottle　of　wine　and　glasses；　and　followed　us　down　upon　the　rocks；　pressing　us　to　drink。　　Most　singular　conduct；　no　doubt　drugged　wine；　travelers　put　into　deep　sleep；　robbed；　thrown　over　precipice；　diplomatic　correspondence；　flattering；　but　no　compensation　to　them。　　Either　this；　or　a　case　of　hospitality。　　We　declined　to　drink；　and　the　brigand　went　away。

We　sat　down　upon　the　jutting　ledge　of　a　precipice；　the　like　of　which　is　not　in　the　world：　on　our　left；　the　rocky；　bare　side　of　St。　Angelo；　against　which　the　sunshine　dashes　in　waves；　below　us；　sheer　down　two　thousand　feet）　the　city　of　Positano；　a　nest　of　brown　houses；　thickly　clustered　on　a　conical　spur；　and　lying　along　the　shore；　the　home　of　three　thousand　people；with　a　running　jump　I　think　I　could　land　in　the　midst　of　it；a　pygmy　city；　inhabited　by　mites；　as　we　look　down　upon　it；　a　little　beach　of　white　sand；　a　sailboat　lying　on　it；　and　some　fishermen　just　embarking；　a　long　hotel　on　the　beach；　beyond；　by　the　green　shore；　a　country　seat　charmingly　situated　amid　trees　and　vines；　higher　up；　the　ravine…seamed　hill；　little　stone　huts；　bits　of　ruin；　towers；　arches。　　How　still　it　is！　　All　the　stiller　that　I　can；　now　and　then；　catch　the　sound　of　an　axe；　and　hear　the　shouts　of　some　children　in　a　garden　below。　　How　still　the　sea　is！　　How　many　ages　has　it　been　so？　　Does　the　purple　mist　always　hang　there　upon　the　waters　of　Salerno　Bay；　forever　hiding　from　the　gaze　Paestum　and　its　temples；　and　all　that　shore　which　is　so　much　more　Grecian　than　Roman？

After　all；　it　is　a　satisfaction　to　turn　to　the　towering　rock　of　St。　Angelo；　not　a　tree；　not　a　shrub；　not　a　spire　of　grass；　on　its　perpendicular　side。　　We　try　to　analyze　the　satisfaction　there　is　in　such　a　bald；　treeless；　verdureless　mass。　　We　can　grasp　it　intellectually；　in　its　sharp　solidity；　which　is　undisturbed　by　any　ornament：　it　is；　to　the　mind；　like　some　complete　intellectual　performance；　the　mind　rests　on　it；　like　a　demonstration　in　Euclid。　And　yet　what　a　color　of　beauty　it　takes　on　in　the　distance！

When　we　return；　the　bandits　have　all　gone　to　their　road…making：　the　suspicious　landlord　is　nowhere　to　be　seen。　　We　call　the　woman　from　the　field；　and　give　her　money；　which　she　seemed　not　to　expect；　and　for　which　she　shows　no　gratitude。　　Life　appears　to　be　indifferent　to　these　people。　　But；　if　these　be　brigands；　we　prefer　them　to　those　of　Naples；　and　even　to　the　innkeepers　of　England。　　As　we　saunter　home　in　the　pleasant　afternoon；　the　vesper…bells　are　calling　to　each　other；　making　the　sweetest　echoes　of　peace　everywhere　in　the　hills；　and　all　the　piano　is　jubilant　with　them；　as　we　come　down　the　steeps　at　sunset。

〃You　see　there　was　no　danger；〃　said　the　giant　to　his　wife　that　evening　at　the　supper…table。

〃You　would　have　found　there　was　danger；　if　you　had　gone；〃　returned　the　wife　of　the　giant　significantly。




THE　MYTH　OF　THE　SIRENS

I　like　to　walk　upon　the　encircling　ridge　behind　Sorrento；　which　commands　both　bays。　　From　there　I　can　look　down　upon　the　Isles　of　the　Sirens。　　The　top　is　a　broad；　windy　strip　of　pasture；　which　falls　off　abruptly　to　the　Bay　of　Salerno　on　the　south：　a　regular　embankment　of　earth　runs　along　the　side　of　the　precipitous　steeps；　towards　Sorrento。　　It　appears　to　be　a　line　of　defence　for　musketry；　such　as　our　armies　used　to　throw　up：　whether　the　French；　who　conducted　siege　operations　from　this　promontory　on　Capri；　under　Murat；　had　anything　to　do　with　it；　does　not　appear。

Walking　there　yesterday；　we　met　a　woman　shepherdess；　cowherd；　or　sirenstanding　guard　over　three　steers　while　they　fed；　a　scantily…　clad；　brown　woman；　who　had　a　distaff　in　her　hand；　and　spun　the　flax　as　she　watched　the　straying　cattle；　an　example　of　double　industry　which　the　men　who　tend　herds　never　imitate。　　Very　likely　her　ancestors　so　spun　and　tended　cattle　on　the　plains　of　Thessaly。　　We　gave　the　rigid　woman　good…morning；　but　she　did　not　heed　or　reply；　we　made　some　inquiries　as　to　paths；　but　she　ignored　us；　we　bade　her　good…day；　and　she　scowled　at　us：　she　only　spun。　　She　was　so　out　of　tune　with　the　people；　and　the　gentle　influences　of　this　region；　that　we　could　only　regard　her　as　an　anomaly；the　representative　of　some　perversity　and　evil　genius；　which；　no　doubt；　lurks　here　as　it　does　elsewhere　in　the　world。　　She　could　not　have　descended　from　either　of　the　groups　of　the　Sirens；　for　she　was　not　fascinating　enough　to　be　fatal。

I　like　to　look　upon　these　islets　or　rocks　of　the　Sirens；　barren　and　desolate；　with　a　few　ruins　of　the　Roman　time　and　remains　of　the　Middle…Age　prisons　of　the　doges　of　Amalfi；　but　I　do　not　care　to　dissipate　any　illusions　by　going　to　them。　　I　remember　how　the　Sirens　sat　on　flowery　meads　by　the　shore　and　sang；　and　are　vulgarly　supposed　to　have　allured　passing　mariners　to　a　life　of　ignoble　pleasure；　and　then　let　them　perish；　hungry　with　all　unsatisfied　longings。　　The　bones　of　these　unfortunates；　whitening　on　the　rocks；　of　which　Virgil　speaks；　I　could　not　see。　　Indeed；　I　think　any　one　who　lingers　long　in　this　region　will　doubt　if　they　were　ever　there；　and　will　come　to　believe　that　the　characters　of　the　Sirens　are　popularly　misconceived。　Allowing　Ulysses　to　be　only　another　name　for　the　sun…god；　who　appears　in　myths　as　Indra；　Apollo；　William　Tell；　the　sure…hitter；　the　great　archer；　whose　arrows　are　sunbeams；　it　is　a　degrading　conception　of　him　that　he　was　obliged　to　lash　himself　to　the　mast　when　he　went　into　action　with　the　Sirens；　like　Farragut　at　Mobile；　though　for　a　very　different　reason。　　We　should　be　forced　to　believe　that　Ulysses　was　not　free　from　the　basest　mortal　longings；　and　that　he　had　not　strength　of　mind　to　resist　them；　but　must　put　himself　in　durance；　as　our　moderns　who　cannot　control　their　desires　go　into　inebriate　asylums。

Mr。　　Ruskin　says　that　〃the　Sirens　are　the　great　constant　desires；　the　infinite　sicknesses　of　heart；　which；　rightly　placed；　give　life；　and；　wrongly　placed；　waste　it　away；　so　that　there　are　two　groups　of　Sirens；　one　noble　and　saving；　as　the　other　is　fatal。〃　　Unfortunately　we　are　all；　as　were　the　Greeks；　ministered　unto　by　both　these　groups；　but　can　fortunately；　on　the　other　hand；　choose　which　group　we　will　listen　to　the　singing　of；　though　the　strains　are　somewhat　mingled；　as；　for　instance；　in　the　modern　opera；　where　the　music　quite　as　often　wastes　life　away；　as　gives　to　it　the　energy　of　pure　desire。　　Yet；　if　I　were　to　locate　the　Sirens　geographically；　I　should　place　the　beneficent　desires　on　this　coast；　and　the　dangerous　ones　on　that　of　wicked　Baiae；　to　which　group　the　founder　of　Naples　no　doubt　belonged。

Nowhere；　perhaps；　can　one　come　nearer　to　the　beautiful　myths　of　Greece；　the　springlike　freshness　of　the　idyllic　and　heroic　age；　than　on　this　Sorrentine　promontory。　　It　was　no　chance　that　made　these　coasts　the　home　of　the　kind　old　monarch　Eolus；　inventor　of　sails　and　storm…signals。　　On　the　Telegrafo　di　Mare　Cuccola　is　a　rude　signal…apparatus　for　communication　with　Capri；to　ascertain　if　wind　and　wave　are　propitious　for　entrance　to　the　Blue　Grotto；which　probably　was　not　erected　by　Eolus；　although　he　doubtless　used　this　sightly　spot　as　one　of　his　stations。　　That　he　dwelt　here；　in　great　content；　with　his　six　sons　and　six　daughters；　the　Months；　is　nearly　certain；　and　I　feel　as　sure　that　the　Sirens；　whose　islands　were　close　at　hand；　were　elevators　and　not　destroyers　of　the　primitive　races　living　here。

It　seems　to　me　this　must　be　so；　because　the　pilgrim　who　surrenders　himself　to　the　influences　of　these　peaceful　and　sun…inundated　coasts；　under　this　sky　which　the　bright　Athena　loved　and　loves；　loses；　by　and　by；　those　longings　and　heart…sicknesses　which　waste　away　his　life；　and　comes　under　the　dominion；　more　and　more；　of　those　constant　desires　after　that　which　is　peaceful　and　enduring　and　has　the　saving　quality　of　purity。　　I　know；　indeed；　that　it　is　not　always　so；　and　that；　as　Boreas　is　a　better　nurse　of　rugged　virtue　than　Zephyr；　so　the　soft　influences　of　this　clime　only　minister　to　the　fatal　desires　of　some：　and　such　are　likely　to　sail　speedily　back　to　Naples。

The　Sirens；　indeed；　are　everywhere；　and　I　do　not　know　that　we　can　go　anywhere　that　we　shall　escape　the　infinite　longings；　or　satisfy　them。　Here；　in　the　purple　twilight　o