the complete writings-2-第26章

按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页，按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页，按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部！
————未阅读完？加入书签已便下次继续阅读！



As　this　is　strictly　a　chapter　of　travel　and　weather；　I　may　not　stop　to　say　how　impressive　and　beautiful　Florence　seemed　to　us；　how　bewildering　in　art　treasures；　which　one　sees　at　a　glance　in　the　streets；　or　scarcely　to　hint　how　lovely　were　the　Boboli　Gardens　behind　the　Pitti　Palace；　the　roses；　geraniums　etc；　in　bloom；　the　birds　singing；　and　all　in　a　soft；　dreamy　air。　　The　next　day　was　not　so　genial；　and　we　sped　on；　following　our　original　intention　of　seeking　the　summer　in　winter。　　In　order　to　avoid　trouble　with　baggage　and　passports　in　Rome；　we　determined　to　book　through　for　Naples；　making　the　trip　in　about　twenty　hours。　　We　started　at　nine　o'clock　in　the　evening；　and　I　do　not　recall　a　more　thoroughly　uncomfortable　journey。　　It　grew　colder　as　the　night　wore　on；　and　we　went　farther　south。　　Late　in　the　morning　we　were　landed　at　the　station　outside　of　Rome。　　There　was　a　general　appearance　of　ruin　and　desolation。　　The　wind　blew　fiercely　from　the　hills；　and　the　snowflakes　from　the　flying　clouds　added　to　the　general　chilliness。　　There　was　no　chance　to　get　even　a　cup　of　coffee；　and　we　waited　an　hour　in　the　cold　car。　　If　I　had　not　been　so　half　frozen；　the　consciousness　that　I　was　actually　on　the　outskirts　of　the　Eternal　City；　that　I　saw　the　Campagna　and　the　aqueducts；　that　yonder　were　the　Alban　Hills；　and　that　every　foot　of　soil　on　which　I　looked　was　saturated　with　history；　would　have　excited　me。　　The　sun　came　out　here　and　there　as　we　went　south；　and　we　caught　some　exquisite　lights　on　the　near　and　snowy　hills；　and　there　was　something　almost　homelike　in　the　miles　and　miles　of　olive　orchards；　that　recalled　the　apple…trees；　but　for　their　shining　silvered　leaves。　And　yet　nothing　could　be　more　desolate　than　the　brown　marshy　ground；　the　brown　hillocks；　with　now　and　then　a　shabby　stone　hut　or　a　bit　of　ruin；　and　the　flocks　of　sheep　shivering　near　their　corrals；　and　their　shepherd；　clad　in　sheepskin；　as　his　ancestor　was　in　the　time　of　Romulus；　leaning　on　his　staff；　with　his　back　to　the　wind。　　Now　and　then　a　white　town　perched　on　a　hillside；　its　houses　piled　above　each　other；　relieved　the　eye；　and　I　could　imagine　that　it　might　be　all　the　poets　have　sung　of　it；　in　the　spring；　though　the　Latin　poets；　I　am　convinced；　have　wonderfully　imposed　upon　us。

To　make　my　long　story　short；　it　happened　to　be　colder　next　morning　at　Naples　than　it　was　in　Germany。　　The　sun　shone；　but　the　northeast　wind；　which　the　natives　poetically　call　the　Tramontane；　was　blowing；　and　the　white　smoke　of　Vesuvius　rolled　towards　the　sea。　　It　would　only　last　three　days；　it　was　very　unusual；　and　all　that。　　The　next　day　it　was　colder；　and　the　next　colder　yet。　　Snow　fell；　and　blew　about　unmelted：　I　saw　it　in　the　streets　of　Pompeii。

The　fountains　were　frozen；　icicles　hung　from　the　locks　of　the　marble　statues　in　the　Chiaia。　　And　yet　the　oranges　glowed　like　gold　among　their　green　leaves；　the　roses；　the　heliotrope；　the　geraniums；　bloomed　in　all　the　gardens。　　It　is　the　most　contradictory　climate。　　We　lunched　one　day；　sitting　in　our　open　carriage　in　a　lemon　grove；　and　near　at　hand　the　Lucrine　Lake　was　half　frozen　over。　　We　feasted　our　eyes　on　the　brilliant　light　and　color　on　the　sea；　and　the　lovely　outlined　mountains　round　the　shore；　and　waited　for　a　change　of　wind。　The　Neapolitans　declare　that　they　have　not　had　such　weather　in　twenty　years。　　It　is　scarcely　one's　ideal　of　balmy　Italy。

Before　the　weather　changed；　I　began　to　feel　in　this　great　Naples；　with　its　roaring　population　of　over　half　a　million；　very　much　like

the　sailor　I　saw　at　the　American　consul's；　who　applied　for　help　to　be　sent　home；　claiming　to　be　an　American。　　He　was　an　oratorical　bummer；　and　told　his　story　with　all　the　dignity　and　elevated　language　of　an　old　Roman。　　He　had　been　cast　away　in　London。　　How　cast　away？　　Oh！　　it　was　all　along　of　a　boarding…house。　And　then　he　found　himself　shipped　on　an　English　vessel；　and　he　had　lost　his　discharge…papers；　and　〃Listen；　your　honor；〃　said　he；　calmly　extending　his　right　hand；　〃here　I　am　cast　away　on　this　desolate　island　with　nothing　before　me　but　wind　and　weather。〃




RAVENNA

A　DEAD　CITY

Ravenna　is　so　remote　from　the　route　of　general　travel　in　Italy；　that　I　am　certain　you　can　have　no　late　news　from　there；　nor　can　I　bring　you　anything　much　later　than　the　sixth　century。　　Yet；　if　you　were　to　see　Ravenna；　you　would　say　that　that　is　late　enough。　　I　am　surprised　that　a　city　which　contains　the　most　interesting　early　Christian　churches　and　mosaics；　is　the　richest　in　undisturbed　specimens　of　early　Christian　art；　and　contains　the　only　monuments　of　Roman　emperors　still　in　their　original　positions；　should　be　so　seldom　visited。　　Ravenna　has　been　dead　for　some　centuries；　and　because　nobody　has　cared　to　bury　it；　its　ancient　monuments　are　yet　above　ground。　　Grass　grows　in　its　wide　streets；　and　its　houses　stand　in　a　sleepy；　vacant　contemplation　of　each　other：　the　wind　must　like　to　mourn　about　its　silent　squares。　　The　waves　of　the　Adriatic　once　brought　the　commerce　of　the　East　to　its　wharves；　but　the　deposits　of　the　Po　and　the　tides　have；　in　process　of　time；　made　it　an　inland　town；　and　the　sea　is　four　miles　away。

In　the　time　of　Augustus；　Ravenna　was　a　favorite　Roman　port　and　harbor　for　fleets　of　war　and　merchandise。　　There　Theodoric；　the　great　king　of　the　Goths；　set　up　his　palace；　and　there　is　his　enormous　mausoleum。　As　early　as　A。　D。　44　it　became　an　episcopal　see；　with　St。　Apollinaris；　a　disciple　of　St。　Peter；　for　its　bishop。　　There　some　of　the　later　Roman　emperors　fixed　their　residences；　and　there　they　repose。　　In　and　about　it　revolved　the　adventurous　life　of　Galla　Placidia；　a　woman　of　considerable　talent　and　no　principle；　the　daughter　of　Theodosius　（the　great　Theodosius；　who　subdued　the　Arian　heresy；　the　first　emperor　baptized　in　the　true　faith　of　the　Trinity；　the　last　who　had　a　spark　of　genius）；　the　sister　of　one　emperor；　and　the　mother　of　another；twice　a　slave；　once　a　queen；　and　once　an　empress；　and　she；　too；　rests　there　in　the　great　mausoleum　builded　for　her。　　There；　also；　lies　Dante；　in　his　tomb　〃by　the　upbraiding　shore；〃　rejected　once　of　ungrateful　Florence；　and　forever　after　passionately　longed　for。　　There；　in　one　of　the　earliest　Christian　churches　in　existence；　are　the　fine　mosaics　of　the　Emperor　Justinian　and　Theodora；　the　handsome　courtesan　whom　he　raised　to　the　dignity　and　luxury　of　an　empress　on　his　throne　in　Constantinople。　　There　is　the　famous　forest　of　pines；　stretchingunbroken　twenty　miles　down　the　coast　to　Rimini；　in　whose　cool　and　breezy　glades　Dante　and　Boccaccio　walked　and　meditated；　which　Dryden　has　commemorated；　and　Byron　has　invested　with　the　fascination　of　his　genius；　and　under　the　whispering　boughs　of　which　moved　the　glittering　cavalcade　which　fetched　the　bride　to　Rimini；the　fair　Francesca；　whose　sinful　confession　Dante　heard　in　hell。

We　went　down　to　Ravenna　from　Bologna　one　afternoon；　through　a　country　level　and　rich；　riding　along　toward　hazy　evening；　the　land　getting　flatter　as　we　proceeded　（you　know；　there　is　a　difference　between　level　and　flat）；　through　interminable　mulberry…trees　and　vines；　and　fields　with　the　tender　green　of　spring；　with　church　spires　in　the　rosy　horizon；　on　till　the　meadows　became　marshes；　in　which　millions　of　frogs　sang　the　overture　of　the　opening　year。　　Our　arrival；　I　have　reason　to　believe；　was　an　event　in　the　old　town。　We　had　a　crowd　of　moldy　loafers　to　witness　it　at　the　station；　not　one　of　whom　had　ambition　enough　to　work　to　earn　a　sou　by　lifting　our　traveling…bags。　We　had　our　hotel　to　ourselves；　and　wished　that　anybody　else　had　it。　The　rival　house　was　quite　aware　of　our　advent；　and　watched　us　with　jealous　eyes；　and　we；　in　turn；　looked　wistfully　at　it；　for　our　own　food　was　so　scarce　that；　as　an　old　traveler　says；　we　feared　that　we　shouldn't　have　enough；　until　we　saw　it　on　the　table；　when　its　quality　made　it　appear　too　much。　The　next　morning；　when　I　sallied　out　to　hire　a　conveyance；　I　was　an　object　of　interest　to　the　entire　population；　who　seemed　to　think　it　very　odd　that　any　one　should　walk　about　and　explore　the　quiet　streets。　　If　I　were　to　describe　Ravenna；　I　should　say　that　it　is　as　flat　as　Holland　and　as　lively　as　New　London。　　There　are　broad　streets；　with　high　houses；　that　once　were　handsome；　palaces　that　were　once　the　abode　of　luxury；　gardens　that　still　bloom；　and　churches　by　the　score。　　It　is　an　open　gate　through　which　one　walks　unchallenged　into　the　past；　with　little　to　break　the　association　with　the　early　Christian　ages；　their　monuments　undimmed　by　time；　untouched　by　restoration　and　innovation；　the　whole　struck　with　ecclesiastical　death。　　With　all　that　we　saw　that　day；churches；　basilicas；　mosaics；　statues；　mausoleums；I　will　not　burden　these　pages；　but　I　will　set　down　　　　　　is　enough　to　give　you　the　local　color；　and　to　recall　some　of　the　most　interesting　passages　in　Christian　history　in　this　out…　of…the…way　city　on　the　Adriatic。

Our　first　pilgrimage　was　to　the　Church　of　St。　Apollinare　Nuova；　but　why　it　is　called　new　I　do　not　know；　as　Theodoric　built　it　for　an　Arian　cathedral　in　about　the　year　500。　　It　is　a　noble　interior；　having　twenty…four　marble　columns　of　gray　Cippolino；　brought　from　Constantinople；　with　composite　capitals；　on　each　of　which　is　an　impost　with　Latin　crosses　sculptured　on　it。　　These　columns　support　round　arches；　which　divide　the　nave　from　the　aisles；　and　on　the　whole　length　of　the　wall　of　the　nave　so　supported　are　superb　mosaics；　full…length　figures；　in　colors　as　fresh　as　if　done　yesterday；　though　they　were　executed　thirteen　hundred　years　ago。　　The　mosaic　on　the　left　sidewhich　is；　perhaps；　the　finest　one　of　the　period　in　existenceis　interesting　on　another　account。　　It　represents　the　city　of　Classis；　with　sea　and　ships；　and　a　long　procession　of　twenty…two　virgins　presenting　offerings　to　the　Virgin　and　Child；　seated　on　a　throne。　　The　Virgin　is　surrounded　by　angels；　and　has　a　glory　round　her　head；　which　shows　that　homage　is　being　paid　to　her。　　It　has　been　supposed；　from　the　early　monuments　of　Christian　art；　that　the　worship　of　the　Virgin　is　of　comparatively　recent　origin；　but　this　mosaic　would　go　to　show　that　Mariolatry　was　established　before　the　end　of　the　sixth　century。　　Near　this　church　is　part　of　the　front　of　the　palace　of　Theodoric；　in　which　the　Exarchs　and　Lombard　kings　subsequently　resided。　　Its　treasures　and　marbles　Charlemagne　carried　off　to　Germany。




DOWN　TO　THE　PINETA

We　drove　three　miles　beyond　the　city；　to　the　Church　of　St。　Apollinare　in　Classe；　a　lonely　edifice　in　a　waste　of　marsh；　a　grand　old　basilica；　a　purer　specimen　of　Christian　art　than　Rome　or　any　other　Italian　town　can　boast。　　Just　outside　the　city　gate　stands　a　Greek　cross　on　a　small　fluted　column；　which　marks　the　site　of　the　once　magnificent　Basilica　of　St。　Laurentius；　which　was　demolished　in　the　sixteenth　century；　its　stone　built　into　a　new　church　in　town；　and　its　rich　marbles　carried　to　all…absorbing　Rome。　　It　was　the　last　relic　of　the　old　port　of　Caesarea；　famous　since　the　time　of　Augustus。　　A　marble　column　on　a　green　meadow　is　all　that　remains　of　a　once　prosperous　city。　　Our　road　lay　through　the　marshy　plain；　across　an　elevated　bridge　over　the　sluggish　united　stream　of　the　Ronco　and　Montone；　from　which　there　is　a　wide　view；　including　the　Pineta　（or　Pine　Forest）；　the　Church　of　St。　Apollinare　in　the　midst　of　rice…fields　and　mars