letters from high latitudes-第4章
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nd…twenty hours than those spent stealing up along the gnarled and crumpled lava flat that forms the western coast of Guldbrand Syssel。 Such fishing； shooting； looking through telescopes； and talking of what was to be done on our arrival！ Like Antaeus； Sigurdr seemed twice the man he was before； at sight of his native land； and the Doctor grew nearly lunatic when after stalking a solent goose asleep on the water； the bird flew away at the moment the schooner hove within shot。
The panorama of the bay of Faxa Fiord is magnificent； with a width of fifty miles from horn to horn； the one running down into a rocky ridge of pumice； the other towering to the height of five thousand feet in a pyramid of eternal snow； while round the intervening semicircle crowd the peaks of a hundred noble mountains。 As you approach the shore； you are very much reminded of the west coast of Scotland； except that everything is more INTENSEthe atmosphere clearer； the light more vivid； the air more bracing； the hills steeper； loftier； more tormented； as the French say； and more gaunt； while between their base and the sea stretches a dirty greenish slope； patched with houses which themselves； both roof and walls； are of a mouldy green； as if some long…since inhabited country had been fished up out of the bottom of the sea。
The effects of light and shadow are the purest I ever saw； the contrasts of colour most astonishing；one square front of a mountain jutting out in a blaze of gold against the flank of another； dyed of the darkest purple； while up against the azure sky beyond； rise peaks of glittering snow and ice。 The snow； however； beyond serving as an ornamental fringe to the distance； plays but a very poor part at this season of the year in Iceland。 While I write； the thermometer is above 70。 Last night we remained playing at chess on deck till bedtime； without thinking of calling for coats； and my people live in their shirt…sleeves； andastonishment at the climate。
And now； good…bye。 I cannot tell you how I am enjoying myself； body and soul。 Already I feel much stronger； and before I return I trust to have laid in a stock of health sufficient to last the family for several generations。
Remember me to ； and tell her she looks too lovely； her face has become of a beautiful bright greena complexion which her golden crown sets off to the greatest advantage。 I wish she could have seen； as we sped across； how passionately the waves of the Atlantic flung their liquid arms about her neck； and how proudly she broke through their embraces； leaving them far behind； moaning and lamenting。
LETTER VI。
REYKJAVIKLATIN CONVERSATIONI BECOME THE PROPRIETOR OF TWENTY…SIX HORSESEIDER DUCKSBESSESTADSNORKO STURLESONTHE OLD GREENLAND COLONYFINLANDA GENOESE SKIPPER IN THE FIFTEENTH CENTURYAN ICELANDIC DINNER SKOALAN AFTER…DINNER SPEACH IN LATINWINGED RABBITS DUCROWSTART OF THE BAGGAGE…TRAIN。
Reykjavik； June 28； 1856。
Notwithstanding that its site； as I mentioned in my last letter； was determined by auspices not less divine than those of Rome or Athens； Reykjavik is not so fine a city as either； though its public buildings may be thought to be in better repair。 In fact； the town consists of a collection of wooden sheds； one story highrising here and there into a gable end of greater pretentionsbuilt along the lava beach； and flanked at either end by a suburb of turf huts。
On every side of it extends a desolate plain of lava that once must have boiled up red…hot from some distant gateway of hell； and fallen hissing into the sea。 No tree or bush relieves the dreariness of the landscape； and the mountains are too distant to serve as a background to the buildings； but before the door of each merchant's house facing the sea； there flies a gay little pennon； and as you walk along the silent streets； whose dust no carriage…wheel has ever desecrated； the rows of flower…pots that peep out of the windows； between curtains of white muslin； at once convince you that notwithstanding their unpretending appearance； within each dwelling reign the elegance and comfort of a woman…tended home。
Thanks to Sigurdr's popularity among his countrymen； by the second day after our arrival we found ourselves no longer in a strange land。 With a frank energetic cordiality that quite took one by surprise； the gentlemen of the place at once welcomed us to their firesides； and made us feel that we could give them no greater pleasure than by claiming their hospitality。 As； however； it is necessary； if we are to reach Jan Mayen and Spitzbergen this summer； that our stay in Iceland should not be prolonged above a certain date； I determined at once to make preparations for our expedition to the Geysirs and the interior of the country。 Our plan at present； after visiting the hot springs； is to return to Reykjavik； and stretch right across the middle of the island to the north coastscarcely ever visited by strangers。 Thence we shall sail straight away to Jan Mayen。
In pursuance of this arrangement； the first thing to do was to buy some horses。 Away； accordingly； we went in the gig to the little pier leading up to the merchant's house who had kindly promised Sigurdr to provide them。 Everything in the country that is not made of wood is made of lava。 The pier was constructed out of huge boulders of lava； the shingle is lava； the sea…sand is pounded lava； the mud on the roads is lava paste； the foundations of the houses are lava blocks； and in dry weather you are blinded with lava dust。 Immediately upon landing I was presented to a fine； burly gentleman； who； I was informed； could let me have a steppe…ful of horses if I desired； and a few minutes afterwards I picked myself up in the middle of a Latin oration on the subject of the weather。 Having suddenly lost my nominative case； I concluded abruptly with the figure syncope； and a bow； to which my interlocutor politely replied 〃Ita。〃 Many of the inhabitants speak English； and one or two French； but in default of either of these； your only chance is Latin。 At first I found great difficulty in brushing up anything sufficiently conversational； more especially as it was necessary to broaden out the vowels in the high Roman fashion； but a little practice soon made me more fluent； and I got at last to brandish my 〃Pergratum est；〃 etc。 in the face of a new acquaintance； without any misgivings。 On this occasion I thought it more prudent to let Sigurdr make the necessary arrangements for our journey； and in a few minutes I had the satisfaction of learning that I had become the proprietor of twenty…six horses； as many bridles and pack…saddles； and three guides。
There being no roads in Iceland； all the traffic of the country is conducted by means of horses； along the bridle… tracks which centuries of travel have worn in the lava plains。 As but little hay is to be had； the winter is a season of fasting for all cattle； and it is not until spring is well advanced； and the horses have had time to grow a little fat on the young grass； that you can go a journey。 I was a good deal taken aback when the number of my stud was announced to me； but it appears that what with the photographic apparatus； which I am anxious to take； and our tent； it would be impossible to do with fewer animals。 The price of each pony is very moderate； and I am told I shall have no difficulty in disposing of all of them； at the conclusion of our expedition。
These preliminaries happily concluded； Mr。 J invited us into his house； where his wife and daughtera sunshiny young lady of eighteenwere waiting to receive us。 As Latin here was quite useless； we had to entrust Sigurdr with all the pretty things we desired to convey to our entertainers； but it is my firm opinion that that gentleman took a dirty advantage of us； and intercepting the choicest flowers of our eloquence； appropriated them to the advancement of his own interests。 However； such expressions of respectful admiration as he suffered to reach their destination were received very graciously； and rewarded with a shower of smiles。
The next few days were spent in making short expeditions in the neighbourhood； in preparing our baggage…train； and in paying visits。 It would be too long for me to enumerate all the marks of kindness and hospitality I received during this short period。 Suffice it to say； that I had the satisfaction of making many very interesting acquaintances； of beholding a great number of very pretty faces； and of partaking of an innumerable quantity of luncheons。 In fact； to break bread； or； more correctly speaking； to crack a bottle with the master of the house； is as essential an element of a morning call as the making a bow or shaking hands； and to refuse to take off your glass would be as great an incivility as to decline taking off your hat。 From earliest times； as the grand old ballad of the King of Thule tells us； a beaker was considered the fittest token a lady could present to her true…love
Dem fterbend feine Buble Einen goldnen Becher gab。
And in one of the most ancient Eddaic songs it is written； 〃Drink； Runes； must thou know； if thou wilt maintain thy power over the maiden thou lovest。 Thou shalt score them on the drinking…horn； on the back of thy hand； and the word NAUD〃 （NEEDnecessity） 〃on thy nail。〃 Moreover； when it is remembered that the ladies of the house themselves minister on these occasions； it will be easily understood that all flinching is out of the question。 What is a man to do； when a wicked little golden…haired maiden insists on pouring him out a bumper； and dumb show is his only means of remonstrance？ Why； of course； if death were in the cup； he must make her a leg； and drain it to the bottom； as I did。 In conclusion； I am bound to add that； notwithstanding the bacchanalian character prevailing in these visits； I derived from them much interesting and useful information； and I have invariably found the gentlemen to whom I have been presented persons of education and refinement； combined with a happy； healthy； jovial temperament； that invests their conversation with a peculiar charm。
At this moment people are in a great state of excitement at the expected arrival of H。I。H。 Prince Napoleon； and two days ago a large full…rigged ship came in laden with coal for his use。 The day after we left Stornaway； we had seen her scudding away before the gale on a due west course； and guessed she was bound for Iceland； and running down the longitude； but as we arrived here four days before her； our course seems to have been a better one。 The only other ship here is the French frigate 〃Artemise；〃 Commodore Dumas； by whom I have been treated with the greatest kindness and civility。
On Saturday we went to Vedey； a beautiful little green island where the eider ducks breed； and build nests with the soft under…down plucked from their own bosoms。 After the little ones are hatched； and their birthplaces deserted； the nests are gathered； cleaned； and stuffed into pillow…cases； for pretty ladies in Europe to lay their soft； warm cheeks upon； and sleep the sleep of the innocent； while long…legged； broad…shouldered Englishmen protrude from between them at German inns； like the ham from a sandwich； and cannot sleep； however innocent。
The next day； being Sunday； I read prayers on board； and then went
