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;At 5。15 P。M。 we arrived at a forest on the west bank。 At 6。45 P。M。 we
stopped�察�as I was afraid we might pass the station of Wat´el´Shambi in
the dark。
;March 21。At 8。25 A。M。 we started。 Three natives came to the vessel
and reported the zareeba to be close ahead。
;I served out fifteen rounds of snider ammunition per man to the 'Forty
Thieves��' thus filling up their pouches to thirty rounds。 The banks are
now dry�察�and about two feet six inches above the river's level。 The
country is as usual flat�察�but covered with forest on the west。 Cattle
numerous�察�and bellowing in all directions。
;At 9。15 A。M。 we arrived at Wat´el´Shambi。 The forest is distant from
the river�察�therefore at 10 we started with light south´east wind�察�and at
10。30 we returned to a good station for cutting fuel in the forest about
four miles below Wat´el´Shambi。
;The few representatives of Ali Amouri�察�the trader at the latter
station�察�declared that they could not supply us with cattle�察�they being
hard up for provisions themselves。 Their looks belied the excuse。 Wind
south all day�察�but changed to north at 6。30 P。M。 The boat of the French
trader�察�Jules Poncet�察�that had accompanied the fleet�察�arrived in the
evening。
;A number of natives�察�stark naked�察�and smeared with wood ashes�察�came as
usual to beg for corn。 I have given strict orders that on no account
shall corn be exchanged in purchases from the nativesotherwise our
supply will be stolen wholesale。 This order was broken through by
Mustapha Ali�察�who therefore received a hundred lashes�察�as I was
determined to enforce obedience。
;March 22。Much lightning and wind from the south during the night。 I
fear rain。 At daybreak we found Raouf Bey's vessel close up�察�and many
others near。 The north wind of last night must have aided them。 The
natives came in some numbers。
;March 23。All hands yesterday and to´day busied in cutting wood for
steamer。
;March 24。Poor Jusef�察�one of the horsekeepers�察�died。
;March 25。Started�察�with the steamer towing a noggur and my diahbeeah
with about fifty hours' fuel on board�察�at 12。50 P。M。
;There has been wholesale theft of stores on No。 50 noggur。 I caught and
punished the captain in the act of selling our ammunition to the slave
traders' people in their zareeba。
;March 26。We travelled throughout last night�察�the stream is nearly
three miles per hour。 We lost an hour last evening in taking wood from
the noggur in tow�察�as she leaks dangerously。 I took six men and their
effects from her�察�and placed them on the steamer�察�as she is quite
unsafe。
;Arrived at the station of Abou Kookah at 10。25 A。M。�察�having travelled
badly against the strong south wind�察�and our bottom dirty。 At 3。10 P。M。
we left Abou Kookah�察�and at 9。50 P。M。 we arrived at the forest�察�close to
the deserted mission station of St。 Croix�察�where we halted for the
night。 There were vast herds of cattle and many natives on the east
bank。;
CHAPTER VII。
ARRIVAL AT GONDOKORO。
After the usual voyage upon the White Nile�察�during which we passed the
Bohr and the Shir tribes�察�and had excellent sport in antelope shooting
when the steamer stopped at forests to cut fuel�察�we arrived opposite the
old mission station at Gondokoro on April 15�察�1871。
I found a great change in the river since my last visit。 The old
channel�察�which had been of great depth where it swept beneath the
cliffs�察�was choked with sand´banks。 New islands had formed in many
places�察�and it was impossible for the vessels to approach the old
landing´place。 We therefore dropped down the stream to a spot where high
ground and a few trees invited us to the east bank。 At this place the
traders had founded a new settlement that was now without in habitants��
and was represented by half´a´dozen broken´down old huts。
;The country is sadly changed�察�formerly�察�pretty native villages in great
numbers were dotted over the landscape�察�beneath shady clumps of trees��
and the land was thickly populated。 Now�察�all is desolate�此�not a village
exists on the mainland�察�they have all been destroyed�察�and the
inhabitants have been driven for refuge on the numerous low islands of
the river�察�these are thronged with villages�察�and the people are busily
cultivating the soil。
;I sent for the chief�察�Allorron�察�who�察�upon arrival with some other
natives�察�explained that his country had been destroyed by the attacks of
the people of Loquia at the instigation of the traders。 I promised him
protection if he and his people would return to the mainland and become
true subjects to the Khedive。 At the same time I informed him that�察�in
return for protection�察�his people must cultivate corn�察�and build the
huts required for the troops upon arrival。 This he promised to do�察�and I
arranged that he should summon a general meeting of the headmen and
their people to´morrow�察�or as soon as possible。
;I at once cleared a small plot of ground and sowed some garden seeds on
the new soil now annexed to Egypt。 My soldiers took a great interest in
the operation�察�and as we covered the seeds with light earth�察�we
concluded the sowing with the usual ejaculation´'Biamillah��' ��in the
name of God��。
;I walked up to the old mission station。 Not one brick remains upon
anotherall is totally destroyed。 The few fruit´trees planted by the
pious hands of the Austrian Missionaries remain in a tangled wilderness
by the river's bank。 The beautiful avenue of large lemon trees has been
defaced by the destruction of many boughs�察�while the ground beneath is
literally covered by many thousands of withered lemons that have fallen
neglected from the branches without a hand to gather them。 The natives
will not eat them�察�thus the delicious fruit has been wasted�察�perhaps
sixty or eighty bushels have rotted on the earth。 I trust that the seeds
I have already sown will have a more useful result than the lost labour
of the unfortunate missionaries。 It would be heartbreaking to them could
they see the miserable termination of all their good works。
April 16。 The mileage from the junction of the Bahr Giraffe I have
calculated at 364 to this point ��Gondokoro���察�but I deduct 10 per cent。��
as we took several wrong turns of the river。 The distance may be about
330 miles。
From Bahr Giraffe�察�junction to Gondokoro 330 miles
Upper Nile junction to Dubba on Bahr Giraffe 48 miles
Dubba to Lower Nile junction 300 miles
Lower Nile junction to Sobat 38 miles
Sobat to Khartoum 693 miles
1��409 miles to Gondokoro。;
The chief Allorron arrived with a number of his people�察�and asked for
;araki and cognac� ─�He is a big and savage´looking naked brute of the
lowest description�察�his natural vices having been increased by constant
associations with the slave´hunters。 This man declared that his people
could not prepare materials for the camp�察�as the neighbouring tribes
were hostile�察�and he could not venture to collect bamboos。
I told him that if my orders were not obeyed�察�the troops would be
obliged to be sheltered in his villages upon arrival�察�as I could not
allow them to be exposed to the rains。
Both Allorron and his people looked extremely sullen�察�and although I
always knew the Baris to be the worst tribe in the Nile basin�察�I was not
prepared for such a morose welcome。 I explained to him the object of the
expedition。 He seemed quite incredulous�察�and made some remark to his
followers in his own language with a contemptuous smile。 He rather
approved of the idea that slave´taking would be suppressed in his own
tribe�察�but he could not sympathize with the general principle�察�and he
asked ;What will the slave´traders do�拭─�Colonel Abd´el´Kader replied to
the question by explaining to him my exact position�察�and the relative
position of the traders。 At this he burst out laughing in the rudest
manner。 He had seen me and my wife on our former voyage�察�and he well
remembered that in those days we had been not only helpless in
Gondokoro�察�but that the traders had spoken of all Europeans with
contempt。 He had already hoard from Abou ��*�А�Saood's people of my
expected arrival�察�by whom he had been incited against the expedition。 It
had been explained to him�察�that if baffled�察�we should soon become
disgusted�察�and return to Khartoum。 He also remembered that many
Europeans had visited Gondokoro like myself�察�but none had remained。 It
was therefore natural that a brutal savage�察�whose people were allied
with the slave´traders�察�to attack and pillage outlying countries�察�should
not regard with favour a new government that would establish law and
order。 For many years Allorron's tribe had been associated with the
slavers�察�and now that the entire country had been leased to one man��
Abou Saood�察�he had become the vakeel�察�or representative of this
individual�察�by whom he had been thoroughly prepared for our arrival。 We
had been expected long ago�察�but�察�as already described�察�the delays
attending the opening of the Suez canal had prevented us from starting。
��*Footnote�此�The agent of the great company of Agad & Co。�察�who
farmed the district from the government。��
I quickly perceived the real state of affairs。 A great number of
Allorron's people were absent in the interior�察�employed by Abou Saood's
companies as mercenary soldiers。 The Baris are a most warlike tribe�察�and
would make excellent troops�察�thus they were valuable allies of the
slave´hunters�察�as the geographical position of Gondokoro rendered it the
only spot that was adapted for an important station。 The traders now
possessed of the monopoly of the ivory trade�察�found no necessity for a
permanent station at Gondokoro�察�as their interests were watched during
their absence in the interior by their ally Allorron�察�they accordingly
only visited Gondokoro when they returned periodically from the interior
with their ivory and slaves to meet the vessels from Khartoum。
Allorron was in the habit of despatching messengers to their various
camps ��seven or eight days' march for a running negro�� to give the
vakeels notice of the arrival of the expected vessels。 Many hundreds of
his people had been armed with guns by the traders�察�therefore his tribe
and the companies of Abou Saood were thoroughly incorporated�察�brigands
allied with brigands�察�and Gondokoro had become the nucleus to which the
spoil was concentrated。
These were people by whom the blessings of a good government were hardly
to be understood。
Unfortunately for Allorron�察�he had joined the slave´hunters of Abou
Saood against neighbours that were unpleasantly close to Gondokoro。 The
Loquia�察�a most powerful tribe�察�only three days' march to the south´east��
had lost slaves and cattle by these depredations�察�thus�察�when the
slave´hunters' parties had quitted Gondokoro and returned to their
station in the interior�察�Loquia had invaded the unprotected Allorron��
and had utterly destroyed his district on the eastern mainland。 For many
miles the country now resembled a very lovely park。 Every habitation had
disappeared�察�and this formerly populous position was quite deserted by
the surviving inhabitants�察�who had taken refuge in the islands�察�or on
the west side of the river。 At this season the