the golden chersonese and the way thither-第50章

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which　the　creature　rose　gently　from　the　ground；　and　we　went　on　our
journey。

But　the　ride　was　〃a　fearful　joy；〃　_if_　a　joy　at　all！　Soon　the　driver
jumped　off　for　a　gossip　and　a　smoke；　leaving　the　elephant　to　〃gang　his
ain　gates〃　for　a　mile　or　more；　and　he　turned　into　the　jungle；　where　he
began　to　rend　and　tear　the　trees；　and　then　going　to　a　mud…hole；　he　drew
all　the　water　out　of　it；　squirted　it　with　a　loud　noise　over　himself　and
his　riders；　soaking　my　clothes　with　it；　and　when　he　turned　back　to　the
road　again；　he　several　times　stopped　and　seemed　to　stand　on　his　head　by
stiffening　his　proboscis　and　leaning　upon　it；　and　when　I　hit　him　with
my　umbrella　he　uttered　the　loudest　roar　I　ever　heard。　My　Malay　fellow…
rider　jumped　off　and　ran　back　for　the　driver；　on　which　the　panniers
came　altogether　down　on　my　side；　and　I　hung　on　with　difficulty；
wondering　what　other　possible　contingencies　could　occur；　always
expecting　that　the　beast；　which　was　flourishing　his　proboscis；　would
lift　me　off　with　it　and　deposit　me　in　a　mud…hole。

On　the　driver's　return　I　had　to　dismount　again；　and　this　time　the
elephant　was　allowed　to　go　and　take　a　proper　bath　in　a　river。　He　threw
quantities　of　water　over　himself；　and　took　up　plenty　more　with　which　to
cool　his　sides　as　he　went　along。　Thick　as　the　wrinkled　hide　of　an
elephant　looks；　a　very　small　insect　can　draw　blood　from　it；　and；　when
left　to　himself；　he　sagaciously　plasters　himself　with　mud　to　protect
himself　like　the　water　buffalo。　Mounting　again；　I　rode　for　another　two
hours；　but　he　crawled　about　a　mile　an　hour；　and　seemed　to　have　a　steady
purpose　to　lie　down。　He　roared　whenever　he　was　asked　to　go　faster；
sometimes　with　a　roar　of　rage；　sometimes　in　angry　and　sometimes　in
plaintive　remonstrance。　The　driver　got　off　and　walked　behind　him；　and
then　he　stopped　altogether。　Then　the　man　tried　to　pull　him　along　by
putting　a　hooked　stick　in　his　huge　〃flapper；〃　but　this　produced　no
other　effect　than　a　series　of　howls；　then　he　got　on　his　head　again；
after　which　the　brute　made　a　succession　of　huge　stumbles；　each　one　of
which　threatened　to　be　a　fall；　and　then　the　driver；　with　a　look　of
despair；　got　off　again。　Then　I　made　signs　that　I　would　get　off；　but　the
elephant　refused　to　lie　down；　and　I　let　myself　down　his　unshapely
shoulder　by　a　rattan　rope；　till　I　could　use　the　mahout's　shoulders　as
steps。　The　baskets　were　taken　off　and　left　at　a　house；　the　elephant　was
turned　loose　in　the　jungle；　I　walked　the　remaining　miles　to　Kwala
Kangsa；　and　the　driver　carried　my　portmanteau！　Such　was　the　comical　end
of　my　first　elephant　ride。　I　think　that　altogether　I　walked　about　eight
miles；　and　I　was　not　knocked　up；　this　says　a　great　deal　for　the　climate
of　Perak。　The　Malay　who　came　with　me　told　the　people　here　that　it　was
〃a　wicked　elephant；〃　but　I　have　since　been　told　〃that　it　was　very　sick
and　tired　to　death；〃　which　I　hope　is　the　true　version　of　its　most
obnoxious　conduct。

I　have　said　nothing　about　the　magnificence　of　the　scenery　for　a　part　of
the　way；　where　the　road　goes　through　a　grand　mountain　pass；　where　all
the　vegetable　glories　of　the　tropics　seem　assembled；　and　one　gets　a　new
idea　of　what　scenery　can　be；　while　beneath　superb　tree…ferns　and
untattered　bananas；　and　palms；　and　bright…flowered　lianas；　and　graceful
trailers；　and　vermilion…colored　orchids；　and　under　sun…birds　and
humming　birds　and　the　most　splendid　butterflies　I　ever　saw；　a　torrent；
as　clear　as　crystal；　dashes　over　the　rocks；　and　adds　the　music　of
tumbling　water　to　the　enchantment　of　a　scene　whose　loveliness　no　words
can　give　any　idea　of。　The　pass　of　Bukit　Berapit；　seen　in　solitude　on　a
glorious　morning；　is　almost　worth　a　journey　round　the　world。

Another　wonder　of　the　route　is　Gunong　Pondok；　a　huge　butte　or　isolated
mass　of　red　and　white　limestone；　much　weather…stained　and　ore…stained
with　very　brilliant　colors；　full　of　caverns；　many　of　which　are　quite
inaccessible；　their　entrances　fringed　with　immense　stalactites。　Some　of
the　accessible　caves　have　roofs　seventy　feet　in　height。　Gunong　Pondok
is　shaped　like　the　Bass　Rock；　and　is　about　twelve　hundred　feet　in
height。　Its　irregular　top　is　forest…crowned；　but　its　nearly
perpendicular　walls　of　white　or　red　rock　afford　scarcely　roothold　for
trees；　and　it　rises　in　comparatively　barren　solitude　among　the
forest…covered　mountains　of　the　interior。

At　the　end　of　ten　hours'　traveling；　as　I　was　tramping　along　alone；　I
began　to　meet　Malays；　then　I　met　nine　elephants　in　groups　of　three；
with　men；　women；　and　children　on　their　backs；　apparently　taking　〃an
airing；〃　the　beasts　looking　grand；　as　their　fronts　always　do。　But　that
part　of　the　road　passes　through　a　lonely　jungle　region；　tiger；
elephant；　and　rhinoceros　haunted；　and　only　broken　here　and　there　by
some　rude　Malay　cultivation　of　bananas　or　sugar…cane。　When　the　sun　was
low　I　looked　down　upon　a　broad　and　beautiful　river；　with　hills　and
mountains　on　its　farther　side；　a　village　on　the　shores　of　a　promontory；
and　above　that　a　grassy　hill　with　a　bungalow　under　cocoa…palms　at　its
top；　which　I　knew　must　be　the　Residency；　from　the　scarlet　uniforms　at
the　door。　There　was　a　small　bridge　over　the　Kangsa；　then　a　guard…room
and　some　official　residences　on　stilts；　and　at　the　top　of　a　steep　slope
the　bungalow；　which　has　a　long　flight　of　stairs　under　a　latticed　porch；
leading　to　a　broad　and　comfortably　furnished　veranda　used　as　the
Resident's　office　and　sitting…room；　the　centre　part；　which　has　a　bed…
room　on　each　side　of　it　and　runs　to　the　back　of　the　house；　serving　for
the　eating…place。　It　is　as　unpretending　a　dwelling　as　can　be。　It　keeps
out　the　sun　and　rain；　and　gives　all　the　comfort　which　is　needed　in　this
climate；　but　nothing　more。　My　journey　of　thirty…three　miles　from　the
coast　has　brought　me　into　the　interior　of　the　State；　where　the　Kangsa
river　joins　the　Perak；　at　a　distance　of　a　hundred　and　fifty　miles　from
its　mouth；　and　I　am　alone　in　the　wilds！



LETTER　XX　（CONTINUED）

MystificationA　Grotesque　Dinner…PartyMahmoud　and　EblisFun　and
FrolicMahmoud's　AnticsA　Perak　JungleThe　Poetry　of　Tropical
LifeVillage　LifeThe　Officials　of　the　MosquesA　Moslem　FuneralThe
〃Royal　Elephant〃Swimming　the　PerakThe　Village　of　Koto…lamahA
〃Pirate's　Nest〃Rajah　Dris


I　fear　that　the　involvement　and　confusion　of　dates　in　this　letter　will
be　most　puzzling。　I　was　received　by　a　magnificent　Oriental　butler；　and
after　I　had　had　a　delicious　bath；　dinner；　or　what　Assam　was　pleased　to
call　breakfast；　was　〃served。〃　The　word　〃served〃　was　strictly
applicable；　for　linen；　china；　crystal；　flowers；　cooking；　were　all　alike
exquisite。　Assam；　the　Madrassee；　is　handsomer　and　statelier　than　Babu
at　Malacca；　a　smart　Malay　lad　helps　him；　and　a　Chinaman　sits　on　the
steps　and　pulls　the　punkah。　All　things　were　harmonious；　the　glorious
cocoa…palms；　the　bright　green　slopes；　the　sunset　gold　on　the　lake…like
river；　the　ranges　of　forest…covered　mountains　etherealizing　in　the
purple　light；　the　swarthy　faces　and　scarlet　uniforms　of　the　Sikh　guard；
and　rich　and　luscious　odors；　floated　in　on　balmy　airs；　glories　of　the
burning　tropics；　untellable　and　incommunicable！

My　valise　had　not　arrived；　and　I　had　been　obliged　to　redress　myself　in
my　mud…splashed　tweed　dress；　therefore　I　was　much　annoyed　to　find　the
table　set　for　three；　and　I　hung　about　unwillingly　in　the　veranda；　fully
expecting　two　Government　clerks　in　faultless　evening　dress　to　appear；
and　I　was　vexed　to　think　that　my　dream　of　solitude　was　not　to　be
realized；　when　Assam　more　emphatically　assured　me　that　the　meal　was
〃served；〃　and　I　sat　down；　much　mystified；　at　the　well…appointed　table；
when　he　led　in　a　large　ape；　and　the　Malay　servant　brought　in　a　small
one；　and　a　Sikh　brought　in　a　large　retriever　and　tied　him　to　my　chair！
This　was　all　done　with　the　most　profound　solemnity。　The　circle　being
then　complete；　dinner　proceeded　with　great　stateliness。　The　apes　had
their　curry；　chutney；　pine…apple；　eggs；　and　bananas　on　porcelain
plates；　and　so　had　I。　The　chief　difference　was　that；　whereas　I　waited
to　be　helped；　the　big　ape　was　impolite　enough　occasionally　to　snatch
something　from　a　dish　as　the　butler　passed　round　the　table；　and　that
the　small　one　before　very　long　migrated　from　his　chair　to　the　table；
and；　sitting　by　my　plate；　helped　himself　daintily　from　it。　What　a
grotesque　dinner　party！　　What　a　delightful　one！　My　〃next　of　kin〃　were
so　reasonably　silent；　they　required　no　conversational　efforts；　they
were　most　interesting　companions。　〃Silence　is　golden；〃　I　felt；　shall　I
ever　enjoy　a　dinner　party　so　much　again？

My　acquaintance　with　these　fellow…creatures　was　made　just　after　I
arrived。　I　saw　the　two　tied　by　long　ropes　to　the　veranda　rail　above　the
porch；　and　not　liking　their　looks；　went　as　far　from　them　as　I　could　to
write　to　you。　The　big　one　is　perhaps　four　feet　high　and　very　strong；
and　the　little　one　is　about　twenty　inches　high。*　After　a　time　I　heard　a
cry　of　distress；　and　saw　that　the　big　one；　whose　name　is　Mahmoud；　was
frightening　Eblis；　the　small　one。　　Eblis　ran　away；　but　Mahmoud　having
got　the　rope　in　his　hands；　pulled　it　with　a　jerk　each　time　Eblis　got　to
the　length　of　his　tether；　and　beat　him　with　the　slack　of　it。　I　went　as
near　to　them　as　I　dared；　hoping　to　rescue　the　little　creature；　and　he
tried　to　come　to　me；　but　was　always　jerked　back；　the　face　of　Mahmoud
showing　evil　triumph　each　time。　At　last　Mahmoud　snatched　up　a　stout
Malacca　cane；　and　dragging　Eblis　near　him；　beat　him　unmercifully；　the
cries　of　the　little　semi…human　creature　being　most　pathetic。　I　vainly
tried　to　get　the　Sikh　sentry　to　interfere；　perhaps　it　would　have　been　a
breach　of　discipline　if　he　had　left　his　post；　but　at　the　moment　I
should　have　been　glad　if　he　had　run　Mahmoud　through　with　a　bayonet。
Failing　this；　and　the　case　being　clearly　one　of　murderous　assault；　I
rushed　at　the　rope　which　tied　Eblis　to　the　veranda　and　cut　it　through；
which　so　startled　the　big　fellow　that　he　let　him　go；　and　Eblis；　beaten
I　fear　to　a　jelly；　jumped　upon　my　shoulder　and　flung　his　arms　round　my
throat　with　a　grip　of　terror；　mine；　I　admit；　being　scarcely　less。
＇*The　sheet　of　my　letter　in　which　I　afterward　described　the　physique　of
these　apes　has　unfortunately　been　lost；　and　I　dare　not　trust　to　my
memory　in　a　matter　in　which　accuracy　is　essential。　The　description　of
an　ape　（in　Letter　XIV）　approaches　near　to　my　recollection　of　them。＇

I　carried　him　to　the　easy…chair　at　the　other　end　of　the　veranda；　and　he
lay　down　confidingly　on　my　arm；　looking　up　with　a　bewitching；　pathetic
face；　and　murmuring　sweetly　〃Ouf！　Ouf！〃　He　has　scarcely　left　me　since；
except　to　go　out　to　sleep　on　the　attap　roof。　He　is　the　most　lovable；
infatuating；　little　semi…human　creature；　so　altogether　fascinating　that
I　could　waste　the　whole　day　in　watching　him。　As　I　write；　he　sometimes
sits　on　the　table　by　me　watching　me　attentively；　or　takes　a　pen；　dips
it　in　the　ink；　and　scribbles　on　a　sheet　of　paper。　Occasionally　he　turns
over　the　leaves　of　a　book；　once　he　took　Mr。　Low's　official
correspondence；　envelope　by　envelope；　out　of　the　rack；　opened　each；
took　out　the　letters　and　held　them　as　if　reading；　but　always　replaced
them。　Then　he　becomes　companionable；　and　gently　taking　my　pen　from　my
hand；　puts　it　aside　and　lays