the golden chersonese and the way thither-第40章

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police；　a　long　airy　shed；　with　a　broad　shelf　on　each　side。　Mr。　Klyne；
the　apothecary；　a　half…caste；　has　a　good　many　Malay　dispensary
patients。

On　our　return；　four　Malay　women；　including　the　Imaum's　wife；　came　to
see　me。　Each　one　would　have　made　a　picturesque　picture；　but　they　had　no
manners；　and　seized　on　my　hands；　which　are　coarsened；　reddened；　and
swelled　from　heat　and　mosquito　bites；　all　exclaiming；　〃chanti！
chanti！〃pretty！　pretty！　I　wondered　at　their　bad　taste；　specially　as
they　had　very　small　and　pretty　hands　themselves；　with　almond…shaped
nails。

In　the　evening　the　〃establishment〃　dined　at　the　Residency。　　After
dinner；　as　we　sat　in　the　darkness　in　the　veranda；　maddened　by　mosquito
bites；　about　9：30；　the　bugle　at　the　fort　sounded　the　〃alarm；〃　which　was
followed　in　a　few　seconds　by　the　drum　beating　〃to　quarters；〃　and　in
less　than　five　minutes　every　approach　to　the　Residency　was　held　by　men
with　fixed　bayonets；　and　fourteen　rounds　of　ball…cartridges　each　in
their　belts；　and　every　road　round　Klang　was　being　patrolled　by　pickets。
I　knew　instinctively　that　it　was　〃humbug；〃　arranged　to　show　the
celerity　with　which　the　little　army　could　be　turned　out；　and　shortly　an
orderly　arrived　with　a　note〃False　alarm；〃　but　Klang　never　subsided
all　night；　and　the　Klings　beat　their　tom…toms　till　daylight。　I　am
writing　at　dawn　now；　in　order　that　my　letter　may　〃catch　the　mail。〃

I。　L。　B。



LETTER　XVI

A　Yachting　VoyageThe　Destruction　of　SelangorVarieties　of
SlimeSwamp　FeverAn　Unprosperous　RegionA　〃Deadly…Lively〃
MorningA　Waif　and　StrayThe　Superintendent　of　Police

STEAM…LAUNCH　〃ABDULSAMAT〃　February　7。


You　will　certainly　think；　from　the　dates　of　my　letters；　that　I　am
usually　at　sea。　The　Resident；　his　daughter；　Mrs。　　Daly；　Mr。　Hawley；　a
revenue　officer；　and　I；　left　Klang　this　morning　at　eight　for　a　two
days'　voyage　in　this　bit　of　a　thing。　Blessed　be　〃the　belt　of　calms！〃
There　was　the　usual　pomp　of　a　body…guard；　some　of　whom　are　in
attendance；　and　a　military　display　on　the　pier；　well　drilled；　and　well
officered　in　quiet；　capable；　admirable；　unobtrusive　Mr。　　Syers；　but
gentle　Mrs。　Douglas；　devoted　to　her　helpless　daughter；　standing　above
the　jetty；　a　lone　woman　in　forlorn；　decayed　Klang；　haunts　me　as　a
vision　of　sadness；　as　I　think　of　her　sorrow　and　her　dignified
hospitality　in　the　midst　of　it。

Now；　at　half…past　eleven；　we　are　aground　with　an　ebb…tide　on　the　bar　of
the　Selangor　river；　so　I　may　write　a　little；　though　I　should　like　to　be
asleep。


Bernam　River；　Selangor；　February　8th。〃Chi…laka！〃　（worthless
good…for…nothing　wretch）；　〃Bodo！〃　（fool）。　I　hear　these　words　repeated
incessantly　in　tones　of　thunder　and　fury；　with　accompaniments　which
need　not　be　dwelt　upon。　The　Malays　are　a　revengeful　people。　If　any
official　in　British　service　were　to　knock　them　about　and　insult　them；
one　can　only　say　what　has　been　said　to　me　since　I　came　to　the　native
States：　〃Well；　some　dayall　I　can　say　is；　God　help　him！〃　But　then　if
an　official　were　to　be　krissed；　no　matter　how　deservedly　in　Malay
estimation；　a　gunboat　would　be　sent　up　the　river　to　〃punish；〃　and　would
kill；　burn；　and　destroy；　there　would　be　a　〃little　war；〃　and　a　heavy　war
indemnity；　and　the　true　bearings　of　the　case　would　be　lost　forever。

Yesterday；　after　a　detention　on　the　bar；　we　steamed　up　the　broad；　muddy
Selangor　river；　margined　by　bubbling　slime；　on　which　alligators　were
basking　in　the　torrid　sun；　to　Selangor。　Here　the　Dutch　had　a　fort　on
the　top　of　the　hill。　　We　destroyed　it　in　August；　1871。　Some　Chinese
whose　connection　with　Selangor　is　not　traceable；　after　murdering　nearly
everybody　on　board　a　Pinang…owned　junk；　took　the　vessel　to　Selangor。　We
demanded　that　the　native　chiefs　should　give　up　the　pirates；　and　they
gave　up　nine　readily；　but　refused　the　tenth；　against　whom　〃it　does　not
appear　that　there　was　any　proof；〃　and　drew　their　krises　on　our　police
when　they　tried　to　arrest　the　man　in　defiance　of　them。　The　（acting）
Governor　of　the　Straits　Settlements；　instead　of　representing　to　the
Sultan　the　misconduct；　actual　or　supposed；　of　his　officers；　sent　a
war…ship　to　seize　and　punish　them。　This　attempt　was　resented　by　the
Selangor　chiefs；　and　they　fired　on　those　who　made　it。　The　Rinaldo
destroyed　the　town　in　consequence；　and　killed　many　of　its　inhabitants。

When　the　Viceroy；　a　brother　of　the　Sultan　of　Kedah；　retook　Selangor　two
years　afterward；　he　found　that　what　had　been　a　populous　and　thriving
place　was　almost　deserted；　the　few　hovels　which　remained　were　in　ruins；
the　plantations　were　overgrown　with　rank　jungle　growths；　and　their
owners　had　fled；　the　mines　in　the　interior　were　deserted；　and　the　roads
and　jungle　paths　were　infested　by　bands　of　half…starved　robbers。*
＇*This　account　of　Selangor　does　not　rest　on　local　hearsay；　but　on　the
authority　of　two　of　the　leading　officials　of　the　Colonial　Government。＇

Selangor　is　a　most　wretched　placeworse　than　Klang。　On　one　side　of　the
river　there　is　a　fishing　village　of　mat　and　attap　hovels　on　stilts
raised　a　few　feet　above　the　slime　of　a　mangrove　swamp；　and　on　the　other
an　expanse　of　slime；　with　larger　houses　on　stilts；　and　an　attempt　at　a
street　of　Chinese　shops；　and　a　gambling…den；　which　I　entered；　and　found
full　of　gamblers　at　noonday。　The　same　place　serves　for　a　spirit　and
champagne　shop。　Slime　was　everywhere　oozing；　bubbling；　smelling　putrid
in　the　sun；　all　glimmering；　shining；　and　iridescent；　breeding　fever　and
horrible　life；　while　land…crabs　boring　holes；　crabs　of　a　brilliant
turquoise…blue　color；　which　fades　at　death；　and　reptiles　like　fish；
with　great　bags　below　their　mouths；　and　innumerable　armor…plated
insects；　were　rioting　in　it　under　the　broiling　sun。

We　landed　by　a　steep　ladder　upon　a　jetty　with　a　gridiron　top；　only　safe
for　shoeless　feet；　and　Mr。　Hawley　and　I　went　up　to　the　fort　by　steps
cut　in　the　earth。　There　are　fine　mango…trees　on　the　slopes；　said　to
have　been　planted　by　the　Dutch　two　centuries　ago。　The　fort　is　nearly
oblong；　and　has　a　wall　of　stones　and　earth　round　it；　in　which；　near　the
entrance；　some　of　the　Dutch　brickwork　is　still　visible。　The　trees　round
it　are　much　tattered　and　torn　by　English　shell。　　In　front　of　the
entrance　there　is　a　large　flat　stone　on　a　rude　support。　On　this　a　young
girl　was　sacrificed　some　years　ago；　and　the　Malay　guns　were　smeared
with　her　blood；　in　the　idea　that　it　would　make　them　successful。　I　was
told　this　story；　but　have　no　means　of　testing　its　accuracy。

Within　the　fort　the　collector　and　magistratea　very　inert…looking
Dutch　half…castehas　a　wretched　habitation；　mostly　made　of　attap。　We
sat　there　for　some　time。　It　looked　most　miserable；　the　few　things　about
being　empty　bottles　and　meat…tins。　A　man　would　need　many　resources；
great　energy；　and　an　earnest　desire　to　do　his　duty；　in　order　to　save
him　from　complete　degeneracy。　He　has　no　better　prospect　from　his
elevation；　than　a　nearly　level　plateau　of　mangrove　swamps　and　jungle；
with　low　hills　in　the　distance；　in　which　the　rivers　rise。　It　was
hotrather。

In　the　meantime　the　Resident　was　trying　a　case；　and　when　it　was
concluded　we　steamed　out　to　sea　and　hugged　all　day　the　most　monotonous
coast　I　ever　saw；　only　just；　if　just；　above　high…water　mark；　with　a
great　level　of　mangrove　swamps　and　dense　jungle　behind；　with　high；
jungle…covered　hills　in　the　very　far　distance；　a　vast　area　of
beast…haunted　country；　of　which　nothing　is　known　by　Europeans；　and
almost　nothing　by　the　Malays　themselves。　So　very　small　a　vessel　tumbles
about　a　good　deal　even　with　a　very　light　breeze；　and　instead　of　going
to　dinner　I　lay　on　the　roof　of　the　cabin　studying　blue…books。　At
nightfall　we　anchored　at　the　mouth　of　the　Bernam　river；　to　avoid　the
inland　mosquitoes；　but　we　must　have　brought　some　with　us；　for　I　was
malignantly　bitten。　　Mrs。　Daly　and　I　shared　the　lack　of　privacy　and
comfort　of　the　cabin。　Perfect　though　the　Abdulsamat　is；　there　is　very
little　rest　to　be　got　in　a　small　and　overcrowded　vessel；　and　besides；
the　heat　was　awful。　I　think　we　were　not　far　enough　from　the　swampy
shore；　for　Mrs。　Daly　was　seized　with　fever　during　the　night；　and　a
Malay　servant　also。　In　the　morning　Mrs。　Daly。　who　is　comely　and　has　a
very　nice　complexion；　looked　haggard；　yellow；　and　much　shaken。

At　daylight　we　weighed　anchor　and　steamed　for　many　miles　up　the　muddy；
mangrove…fringed　river　Bernam；　the　mangroves　occasionally　varied　by　the
nipah　palm。　We　met　several　palm…trees　floating　with　their　roots　and
some　of　their　fruits　above　the　water；　like　those　we　saw　yesterday
evening　out　on　the　Malacca　Straits；　looking　like　crowded　Malay　prahus
with　tattered　mat…sails。

Before　nine　we　anchored　at　this　place；　whose　wretchedness　makes　a　great
impression　on　me；　because　we　are　to　deposit　Mr。　Hawley　here　as　revenue
collector。　I　have　seen　him　every　day　for　a　week；　he　is　amiable　and
courteous；　as　well　as　intelligent　and　energetic；　and　it　is　shocking　to
leave　him　alone　in　a　malarious　swamp。　This　dismal　revenue　station
consists　of　a　few　exceptionally　poor…looking　Malay　houses　on　the　river
bank；　a　few　equally　unprosperous…looking　Chinese　dwellings；　a　police
station　of　dilapidated　thatch　among　the　trees；　close　to　it　a　cage　in
which　there　is　a　half…human　looking　criminal　lying　on　a　mat；　a　new
house　or　big　room；　raised　for　Mr。　Hawley；　with　the　swamp　all　round　it
and　underneath　it；　and　close　to　it　some　pestiferous　ditches　which　have
been　cut　to　drain　it；　but　in　which　a　putrid…looking　brown　ooze　has
stagnated。　There　is　a　causeway　about　two　hundred　yards　long　on　the
river　bank；　but　no　road　anywhere。　The　river　is　broad；　deep；　swift　and
muddy；　on　its　opposite　side　is　Perak；　the　finest　State　in　the
peninsula；　and　the　cluster　of　mat　houses　on　the　farther　shore　is　under
the　Perak　Government。*　Sampans　are　lying　on　the　heated　slime。　Cocoa…nut
trees　fringe　the　river　bank　for　some　distance；　and　there　are　some
large；　spreading　trees　loaded　with　the　largest　and　showiest　crimson
blossoms　I　ever　saw；　throwing　even　the　gaudy　Poinciana　regia　into　the
shade；　but　nothing　can　look　very　attractive　here；　with　the　swamp　in
front　and　the　jungle　behind；　where　the　rhinoceros　is　said　to　roam
undisturbed。　　
＇*The　Bernam　district　has　recently　been　handed　over　to　Perak；　and　is　now
under　Mr。　Low's　very　capable　administration。＇

We　landed　in　the　police　boat　at　a　stilted　jetty　approached　by　a　ladder
with　few　and　slippery　rungs。　At　the　top　there　was　a　primitive　gridiron
of　loose　nibong　bars；　and　the　river　swirled　so　rapidly　and　dizzily
below　that　I　was　obliged　ignominiously　to　hold　on　to　a　Chinaman　in
order　to　reach　the　causeway　safely。　To　add　to　the　natural　insecurity　of
the　foothold；　some　men　were　killing　a　goat　at　the　top　of　the　ladder；
and　its　blood　made　the　whole　gridiron　slippery。　　The　banks　of　the　river
are　shining　slime　giving　off　fetid　exhalations　under　the　burning　sun；
there　is　a　general　smell　of　vegetable　decomposition；　and　miasma　fever
（one　would　suppose）　is　exhaling　from　every　bubble　of　the　teeming　slime
and　swamp。

In　the　veranda　of　Mr。　Hawley's　house　a　number　of　forlorn…looking
Rajahs　are　sitting；　each　with　his　forlorn…looking　train　of　followers；
and　in　front　of　the　police　station　a　number　of　forlorn…looking　Malays
are　sitting　motionless　hour　after　hour。　The　Chinese　have　a　row