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co´operate�察�failing to grip。  And the common soldiers�察�too�察�they 

were just what our streets and country´side had made them�察�no sudden 

magic came out of the war bugles for them。  Neither splendid nor 

disgraceful were they��just ill´trained and fairly plucky and 

wonderfully good´tempered menpaying for it。  And how it lowered 

our vitality all that first winter to hear of Nicholson's Nek�察�and 

then presently close upon one another�察�to realise the bloody waste 

of Magersfontein�察�the shattering retreat from Stormberg�察�Colenso

Colenso�察�that blundering battle�察�with White�察�as it seemed�察�in 

Ladysmith near the point of surrender� �and so through the long 

unfolding catalogue of bleak disillusionments�察�of aching�察�

unconcealed anxiety lest worse should follow。  To advance upon your 

enemy singing about his lack of cleanliness and method went out of 

fashion altogether�  �The dirty retrogressive Boer vanished from our 

scheme of illusion。



All through my middle Cambridge period�察�the guns boomed and the 

rifles crackled away there on the veldt�察�and the horsemen rode and 

the tale of accidents and blundering went on。  Men�察�mules�察�horses�察�

stores and money poured into South Africa�察�and the convalescent 

wounded streamed home。  I see it in my memory as if I had looked at 

it through a window instead of through the pages of the illustrated 

papers�察�I recall as if I had been there the wide open spaces�察�the 

ragged hillsides�察�the open order attacks of helmeted men in khaki�察�

the scarce visible smoke of the guns�察�the wrecked trains in great 

lonely places�察�the burnt isolated farms�察�and at last the blockhouses 

and the fences of barbed wire uncoiling and spreading for endless 

miles across the desert�察�netting the elusive enemy until at last�察�

though he broke the meshes again and again�察�we had him in the toils。  

If one's attention strayed in the lecture´room it wandered to those 

battle´fields。



And that imagined panorama of war unfolds to an accompaniment of 

yelling newsboys in the narrow old Cambridge streets�察�of the flicker 

of papers hastily bought and torn open in the twilight�察�of the 

doubtful reception of doubtful victories�察�and the insensate 

rejoicings at last that seemed to some of us more shameful than 

defeats。 。 。 。







7





A book that stands out among these memories�察�that stimulated me 

immensely so that I forced it upon my companions�察�half in the spirit 

of propaganda and half to test it by their comments�察�was Meredith's 

ONE OF OUR CONQUERORS。  It is one of the books that have made me。  

In that I got a supplement and corrective of Kipling。  It was the 

first detached and adverse criticism of the Englishman I had ever 

encountered。  It must have been published already nine or ten years 

when I read it。  The country had paid no heed to it�察�had gone on to 

the expensive lessons of the War because of the dull aversion our 

people feel for all such intimations�察�and so I could read it as a 

book justified。  The war endorsed its every word for me�察�underlined 

each warning indication of the gigantic dangers that gathered 

against our system across the narrow seas。  It discovered Europe to 

me�察�as watching and critical。



But while I could respond to all its criticisms of my country's 

intellectual indolence�察�of my country's want of training and 

discipline and moral courage�察�I remember that the idea that on the 

continent there were other peoples going ahead of us�察�mentally alert 

while we fumbled�察�disciplined while we slouched�察�aggressive and 

preparing to bring our Imperial pride to a reckoning�察�was extremely 

novel and distasteful to me。  It set me worrying of nights。  It put 

all my projects for social and political reconstruction upon a new 

uncomfortable footing。  It made them no longer merely desirable but 

urgent。  Instead of pride and the love of making one might own to a 

baser motive。  Under Kipling's sway I had a little forgotten the 

continent of Europe�察�treated it as a mere envious echo to our own 

world´wide display。  I began now to have a disturbing sense as it 

were of busy searchlights over the horizon。 。 。 。



One consequence of the patriotic chagrin Meredith produced in me was 

an attempt to belittle his merit。  ;It isn't a good novel�察�anyhow�察─�

I said。



The charge I brought against it was�察�I remember�察�a lack of unity。  

It professed to be a study of the English situation in the early 

nineties�察�but it was all deflected�察�I said�察�and all the interest was 

confused by the story of Victor Radnor's fight with society to 

vindicate the woman he had loved and never married。  Now in the 

retrospect and with a mind full of bitter enlightenment�察�I can do 

Meredith justice�察�and admit the conflict was not only essential but 

cardinal in his picture�察�that the terrible inflexibility of the rich 

aunts and the still more terrible claim of Mrs。 Burman Radnor�察�the 

;infernal punctilio�察─�and Dudley Sowerby's limitations�察�were the 

central substance of that inalertness the book set itself to assail。  

So many things have been brought together in my mind that were once 

remotely separated。  A people that will not valiantly face and 

understand and admit love and passion can understand nothing 

whatever。  But in those days what is now just obvious truth to me 

was altogether outside my range of comprehension。 。 。 。







8





As I seek to recapitulate the interlacing growth of my apprehension 

of the world�察�as I flounder among the half´remembered developments 

that found me a crude schoolboy and left me a man�察�there comes out�察�

as if it stood for all the rest�察�my first holiday abroad。  That did 

not happen until I was twenty´two。  I was a fellow of Trinity�察�and 

the Peace of Vereeniging had just been signed。



I went with a man named Willersley�察�a man some years senior to 

myself�察�who had just missed a fellowship and the higher division of 

the Civil Service�察�and who had become an enthusiastic member of the 

London School Board�察�upon which the cumulative vote and the support 

of the ;advanced; people had placed him。  He had�察�like myself�察�a 

small independent income that relieved him of any necessity to earn 

a living�察�and he had a kindred craving for social theorising and 

some form of social service。  He had sought my acquaintance after 

reading a paper of mine ��begotten by the visit of Chris Robinson�� on 

the limits of pure democracy。  It had marched with some thoughts of 

his own。



We went by train to Spiez on the Lake of Thun�察�then up the Gemmi�察�

and thence with one or two halts and digressions and a little modest 

climbing we crossed over by the Antrona pass ��on which we were 

benighted�� into Italy�察�and by way of Domo D'ossola and the Santa 

Maria Maggiore valley to Cannobio�察�and thence up the lake to Locarno 

��where�察�as I shall tell�察�we stayed some eventful days�� and so up the 

Val Maggia and over to Airolo and home。



As I write of that long tramp of ours�察�something of its freshness 

and enlargement returns to me。  I feel again the faint pleasant 

excitement of the boat train�察�the trampling procession of people 

with hand baggage and laden porters along the platform of the 

Folkestone pier�察�the scarcely perceptible swaying of the moored boat 

beneath our feet。  Then�察�very obvious and simple�察�the little emotion 

of standing out from the homeland and seeing the long white Kentish 

cliffs recede。  One walked about the boat doing one's best not to 

feel absurdly adventurous�察�and presently a movement of people 

directed one's attention to a white lighthouse on a cliff to the 

east of us�察�coming up suddenly�察�and then one turned to scan the 

little different French coast villages�察�and then�察�sliding by in a 

pale sunshine came a long wooden pier with oddly dressed children 

upon it�察�and the clustering town of Boulogne。



One took it all with the outward calm that became a young man of 

nearly three and twenty�察�but one was alive to one's finger´tips with 

pleasing little stimulations。  The custom house examination excited 

one�察�the strangeness of a babble in a foreign tongue�察�one found the 

French of City Merchants' and Cambridge a shy and viscous flow�察�and 

then one was standing in the train as it went slowly through the 

rail´laid street to Boulogne Ville�察�and one looked out at the world 

in French�察�porters in blouses�察�workmen in enormous purple trousers�察�

police officers in peaked caps instead of helmets and romantically 

cloaked�察�big carts�察�all on two wheels instead of four�察�green 

shuttered casements instead of sash windows�察�and great numbers of 

neatly dressed women in economical mourning。



;Oh� �there's a priest� ─�one said�察�and was betrayed into suchlike 

artless cries。



It was a real other world�察�with different government and different 

methods�察�and in the night one was roused from uneasy slumbers and 

sat blinking and surly�察�wrapped up in one's couverture and with 

one's oreiller all awry�察�to encounter a new social phenomenon�察�the 

German official�察�so different in manner from the British�察�and when 

one woke again after that one had come to Bale�察�and out one tumbled 

to get coffee in Switzerland。 。 。 。



I have been over that route dozens of times since�察�but it still 

revives a certain lingering youthfulness�察�a certain sense of 

cheerful release in me。



I remember that I and Willersley became very sociological as we ran 

on to Spiez�察�and made all sorts of generalisations from the steeply 

sloping fields on the hillsides�察�and from the people we saw on 

platforms and from little differences in the way things were done。



The clean prosperity of Bale and Switzerland�察�the big clean 

stations�察�filled me with patriotic misgivings�察�as I thought of the 

vast dirtiness of London�察�the mean dirtiness of Cambridgeshire。  It 

came to me that perhaps my scheme of international values was all 

wrong�察�that quite stupendous possibilities and challenges for us and 

our empire might be developing hereand I recalled Meredith's 

Skepsey in France with a new understanding。



Willersley had dressed himself in a world´worn Norfolk suit of 

greenish grey tweeds that ended unfamiliarly at his rather 

impending�察�spectacled�察�intellectual visage。  I didn't�察�I remember�察�

like the contrast of him with the drilled Swiss and Germans about 

us。  Convict coloured stockings and vast hobnail boots finished him 

below�察�and all his luggage was a borrowed rucksac that he had tied 

askew。  He did not want to shave in the train�察�but I made him at one 

of the Swiss stationsI dislike these Oxford slovenlinessesand 

then confound him� �he cut himself and bled。 。 。 。



Next morning we were breathing a thin exhilarating air that seemed 

to have washed our very veins to an incredible cleanliness�察�and 

eating hard´boiled eggs in a vast clear space of rime´edged rocks�察�

snow´mottled�察�above a blue´gashed glacier。  All about us the 

mo

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