part05-第2章

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that　great　place　for　tilts　and　tourneys；　so　often　sung　in　the

Moorish　ballads　of　love　and　chivalry。　A　gallery　or　arcade　of　wood

had　been　erected　along　the　sides　of　the　square；　for　the　grand

religious　procession　of　the　following　day。　This　was　brilliantly

illuminated　for　the　evening　as　a　promenade；　and　bands　of　music　were

stationed　on　balconies　on　each　of　the　four　facades　of　the　square。

All　the　fashion　and　beauty　of　Granada；　all　of　its　population　of　either

sex　that　had　good　looks　or　fine　clothes　to　display；　thronged　this

arcade；　promenading　round　and　round　the　Vivarrambla。　Here；　too；　were

the　majos　and　majas；　the　rural　beaux　and　belles；　with　fine　forms；

flashing　eyes；　and　gay　Andalusian　costumes；　some　of　them　from　Ronda

itself；　that　strong…hold　of　the　mountains；　famous　for　contrabandistas；

bull…fighters；　and　beautiful　women。

　　While　this　gay　but　motley　throng　kept　up　a　constant　circulation　in

the　gallery；　the　centre　of　the　square　was　occupied　by　the　peasantry

from　the　surrounding　country；　who　made　no　pretensions　to　display；

but　came　for　simple；　hearty　enjoyment。　The　whole　square　was　covered

with　them；　forming　separate　groups　of　families　and　neighborhoods；　like

gipsy　encampments；　some　were　listening　to　the　traditional　ballad

drawled　out　to　the　tinkling　of　the　guitar；　some　were　engaged　in　gay

conversation；　some　were　dancing　to　the　click　of　the　castanet。　As　I

threaded　my　way　through　this　teeming　region　with　Mateo　at　my　heels；

I　passed　occasionally　some　rustic　party；　seated　on　the　ground；

making　a　merry　though　frugal　repast。　If　they　caught　my　eye　as　I

loitered　by；　they　almost　invariably　invited　me　to　partake　of　their

simple　fare。　This　hospitable　usage；　inherited　from　their　Moslem

invaders；　and　originating　in　the　tent　of　the　Arab；　is　universal

throughout　the　land；　and　observed　by　the　poorest　Spaniard。

　　As　the　night　advanced；　the　gayety　gradually　died　away　in　the

arcades；　the　bands　of　music　ceased　to　play；　and　the　brilliant　crowd

dispersed　to　their　homes。　The　centre　of　the　square　still　remained　well

peopled；　and　Mateo　assured　me　that　the　greater　part　of　the

peasantry；　men；　women；　and　children；　would　pass　the　night　there；

sleeping　on　the　bare　earth　beneath　the　open　canopy　of　heaven。

Indeed；　a　summer　night　requires　no　shelter　in　this　favored　climate；

and　a　bed　is　a　superfluity；　which　many　of　the　hardy　peasantry　of　Spain

never　enjoy；　and　which　some　of　them　affect　to　despise。　The　common

Spaniard　wraps　himself　in　his　brown　cloak；　stretches　himself　on　his

manta　or　mule…cloth；　and　sleeps　soundly；　luxuriously　accommodated　if

he　can　have　a　saddle　for　a　pillow。　In　a　little　while　the　words　of

Mateo　were　made　good；　the　peasant　multitude　nestled　down　on　the　ground

to　their　night's　repose；　and　by　midnight；　the　scene　on　the　Vivarrambla

resembled　the　bivouac　of　an　army。

　　The　next　morning；　accompanied　by　Mateo；　I　revisited　the　square　at

sunrise。　It　was　still　strewed　with　groups　of　sleepers：　some　were

reposing　from　the　dance　and　revel　of　the　evening；　others；　who　had　left

their　villages　after　work　on　the　preceding　day；　having　trudged　on　foot

the　greater　part　of　the　night；　were　taking　a　sound　sleep　to　freshen

themselves　for　the　festivities　of　the　day。　Numbers　from　the　mountains；

and　the　remote　villages　of　the　plain；　who　had　set　out　in　the　night；

continued　to　arrive　with　their　wives　and　children。　All　were　in　high

spirits；　greeting　each　other　and　exchanging　jokes　and　pleasantries。

The　gay　tumult　thickened　as　the　day　advanced。　Now　came　pouring　in　at

the　city　gates；　and　parading　through　the　streets；　the　deputations　from

the　various　villages；　destined　to　swell　the　grand　procession。　These

village　deputations　were　headed　by　their　priests；　bearing　their

respective　crosses　and　banners；　and　images　of　the　blessed　Virgin　and

of　patron　saints；　all　which　were　matters　of　great　rivalship　and

jealousy　among　the　peasantry。　It　was　like　the　chivalrous　gatherings　of

ancient　days；　when　each　town　and　village　sent　its　chiefs；　and

warriors；　and　standards；　to　defend　the　capital；　or　grace　its

festivities。

　　At　length　all　these　various　detachments　congregated　into　one　grand

pageant；　which　slowly　paraded　round　the　Vivarrambla；　and　through　the

principal　streets；　where　every　window　and　balcony　was　hung　with

tapestry。　In　this　procession　were　all　the　religious　orders；　the

civil　and　military　authorities；　and　the　chief　people　of　the　parishes

and　villages：　every　church　and　convent　had　contributed　its　banners；

its　images；　its　relics；　and　poured　forth　its　wealth　for　the

occasion。　In　the　centre　of　the　procession　walked　the　archbishop；　under

a　damask　canopy；　and　surrounded　by　inferior　dignitaries　and　their

dependants。　The　whole　moved　to　the　swell　and　cadence　of　numerous　bands

of　music；　and；　passing　through　the　midst　of　a　countless　yet　silent

multitude；　proceeded　onward　to　the　cathedral。

　　I　could　not　but　be　struck　with　the　changes　of　times　and　customs；

as　I　saw　this　monkish　pageant　passing　through　the　Vivarrambla；　the

ancient　seat　of　Moslem　pomp　and　chivalry。　The　contrast　was　indeed

forced　upon　the　mind　by　the　decorations　of　the　square。　The　whole　front

of　the　wooden　gallery　erected　for　the　procession；　extending　several

hundred　feet；　was　faced　with　canvas；　on　which　some　humble　though

patriotic　artist　had　painted；　by　contract；　a　series　of　the　principal

scenes　and　exploits　of　the　Conquest；　as　recorded　in　chronicle　and

romance。　It　is　thus　the　romantic　legends　of　Granada　mingle

themselves　with　every　thing；　and　are　kept　fresh　in　the　public　mind。

　　As　we　wended　our　way　back　to　the　Alhambra；　Mateo　was　in　high　glee

and　garrulous　vein。　〃Ah；　senor；〃　exclaimed　he；　〃there　is　no　place　in

all　the　world　like　Granada　for　grand　ceremonies　（funciones　grandes）；　a

man　need　spend　nothing　on　pleasure　here；　it　is　all　furnished　him

gratis。　Pero；　el　dia　de　la　Toma！　ah；　senor！　el　dia　de　la　Toma！〃　〃But

the　day　of　the　Taking！　ah；　senor；　the　day　of　the　Taking〃…　that　was　the

great　day　which　crowned　Mateo's　notions　of　perfect　felicity。　The　Dia

de　la　Toma；　I　found；　was　the　anniversary　of　the　capture　or　taking

possession　of　Granada；　by　the　army　of　Ferdinand　and　Isabella。

　　On　that　day；　according　to　Mateo；　the　whole　city　is　abandoned　to

revelry。　The　great　alarm　bell　on　the　watchtower　of　the　Alhambra　（la

Torre　de　la　vela）；　sends　forth　its　clanging　peals　from　morn　till

night；　the　sound　pervades　the　whole　Vega；　and　echoes　along　the

mountains；　summoning　the　peasantry　from　far　and　near　to　the

festivities　of　the　metropolis。　〃Happy　the　damsel；〃　says　Mateo；　〃who

can　get　a　chance　to　ring　that　bell；　it　is　a　charm　to　insure　a

husband　within　the　year。〃

　　Throughout　the　day　the　Alhambra　is　thrown　open　to　the　public。　Its

halls　and　courts；　where　the　Moorish　monarchs　once　held　sway；　resound

with　the　guitar　and　castanet；　and　gay　groups；　in　the　fanciful

dresses　of　Andalusia；　perform　their　traditional　dances　inherited

from　the　Moors。

　　A　grand　procession；　emblematic　of　the　taking　possession　of　the　city；

moves　through　the　principal　streets。　The　banner　of　Ferdinand　and

Isabella；　that　previous　relic　of　the　Conquest；　is　brought　forth　from

its　depository；　and　borne　in　triumph　by　the　Alferez　mayor；　or　grand

standard…bearer。　The　portable　camp…altar；　carried　about　with　the

sovereigns　in　all　their　campaigns；　is　transported　into　the　chapel

royal　of　the　cathedral；　and　placed　before　their　sepulchre；　where　their

effigies　lie　in　monumental　marble。　High　mass　is　then　performed　in

memory　of　the　Conquest；　and　at　a　certain　part　of　the　ceremony　the

Alferez　mayor　puts　on　his　hat；　and　waves　the　standard　above　the　tomb

of　the　conquerors。

　　A　more　whimsical　memorial　of　the　Conquest　is　exhibited　in　the

evening　at　the　theatre。　A　popular　drama　is　performed；　entitled　AVE

MARIA；　turning　on　a　famous　achievement　of　Hernando　del　Pulgar；

surnamed　〃el　de　las　Hazanas〃　（he　of　the　exploits）；　a　madcap　warrior；

the　favorite　hero　of　the　populace　of　Granada。　During　the　time　of　the

siege；　the　young　Moorish　and　Spanish　cavaliers　vied　with　each　other　in

extravagant　bravadoes。　On　one　occasion　this　Hernando　del　Pulgar；　at

the　head　of　a　handful　of　followers；　made　a　dash　into　Granada　in　the

dead　of　the　night；　nailed　the　inscription　of　AVE　MARIA　with　his　dagger

to　the　gate　of　the　principal　mosque；　a　token　of　having　consecrated

it　to　the　Virgin；　and　effected　his　retreat　in　safety。

　　While　the　Moorish　cavaliers　admired　this　daring　exploit；　they　felt

bound　to　resent　it。　On　the　following　day；　therefore；　Tarfe；　one　of　the

stoutest　among　them；　paraded　in　front　of　the　Christian　army；

dragging　the　tablet　bearing　the　sacred　inscription　AVE　MARIA；　at　his

horse's　tail。　The　cause　of　the　Virgin　was　eagerly　vindicated　by

Garcilaso　de　la　Vega；　who　slew　the　Moor　in　single　combat；　and　elevated

the　tablet　in　devotion　and　triumph　at　the　end　of　his　lance。

　　The　drama　founded　on　this　exploit　is　prodigiously　popular　with　the

common　people。　Although　it　has　been　acted　time　out　of　mind；　it　never

fails　to　draw　crowds；　who　become　completely　lost　in　the　delusions　of

the　scene。　When　their　favorite　Pulgar　strides　about　with　many　a　mouthy

speech；　in　the　very　midst　of　the　Moorish　capital；　he　is　cheered　with

enthusiastic　bravos；　and　when　he　nails　the　tablet　to　the　door　of　the

mosque；　the　theatre　absolutely　shakes　with　the　thunders　of　applause。

On　the　other　hand；　the　unlucky　actors　who　figure　in　the　part　of　the

Moors；　have　to　bear　the　brunt　of　popular　indignation；　which　at　times

equals　that　of　the　Hero　of　La　Mancha；　at　the　puppet…show　of　Gines　de

Passamonte；　for；　when　the　infidel　Tarfe　plucks　down　the　tablet　to

tie　it　to　his　horse's　tail；　some　of　the　audience　rise　in　fury；　and　are

ready　to　jump　upon　the　stage　to　revenge　this　insult　to　the　Virgin。

　　By　the　way；　the　actual　lineal　descendant　of　Hernando　del　Pulgar

was　the　Marquis　de　Salar。　As　the　legitimate　representative　of　that

madcap　hero；　and　in　commemoration　and　reward　of　this　hero's　exploit；

above　mentioned；　he　inherited　the　right　to　enter　the　cathedral　on

certain　occasions；　on　horseback；　to　sit　within　the　choir；　and　to　put

on　his　hat　at　the　elevation　of　the　host；　though　these　privileges

were　often　and　obstinately　contested　by　the　clergy。　I　met　him

occasionally　in　society；　he　was　young；　of　agreeable　appearance　and

manners；　with　bright　black　eyes；　in　which　appeared　to　lurk　some　of　the

fire　of　his　ancestors。　Among　the　paintings　in　the　Vivarrambla；　on

the　fete　of　Corpus　Christi；　were　some　depicting；　in　vivid　style；　the

exploits　of　the　family　hero。　An　old　gray…headed　servant　of　the　Pulgars

shed　tears　on　beholding　them；　and　hurried　home　to　inform　the

marquis。　The　eager　zeal　and　enthusiasm　of　the　old　domestic　only

provoked　a　light　laugh　from　his　young　master；　whereupon；　turning　to

the　brother　of　the　marquis；　with　that　freedom　allowed　in　Spain　to

old　family　servants；　〃Come；　senor；〃　cried　he；　〃you　are　more

considerate　than　your　brother；　come　and　see　your　ancestor　in　all　his

glory！〃

　　In　emulation　of　this　gr