the malay archipelago-2-第16章

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leave　Cajeli　for　some　better　collecting　ground；　and　finding　a　man　who　was　going　a　few　miles　eastward　to　a　village　on　the　coast　where　he　said　there　were　hills　and　forest；　I　sent　my　boy　Ali　with　him　to　explore　and　report　on　the　capabilities　of　the　district。　At　the　same　time　I　arranged　to　go　myself　on　a　little　excursion　up　a　river　which　flows　into　the　bay　about　five　miles　north　of　the　town；　to　a　village　of　the　Alfuros；　or　indigenes；　where　I　thought　I　might　perhaps　find　a　good　collecting　ground。

The　Rajah　of　Cajeli；　a　good…tempered　old　man；　offered　to　accompany　me；　as　the　village　was　under　his　government；　and　we　started　one　morning　early；　in　a　long　narrow　boat　with　eight　rowers。　In　about　two　hours　we　entered　the　river；　and　commenced　our　inland　journey　against　a　very　powerful　current。　The　stream　was　about　a　hundred　yards　wide；　and　was　generally　bordered　with　high　grass；　and　occasionally　bushes　and　palm…trees。　The　country　round　was　flat　and　more　or　less　swampy；　with　scattered　trees　and　shrubs。　At　every　bend　we　crossed　the　river　to　avoid　the　strength　of　the　current；　and　arrived　at　our　landing…place　about　four　o'clock　in　a　torrent　of　rain。　Here　we　waited　for　an　hour；　crouching　under　a　leaky　mat　till　the　Alfuros　arrived　who　had　been　sent　for　from　the　village　to　carry　my　baggage；　when　we　set　off　along　a　path　of　whose　extreme　muddiness　I　had　been　warned　before　starting。

I　turned　up　my　trousers　as　high　as　possible；　grasped　a　stoat　stick　to　prevent　awkward　falls；　and　then　boldly　plunged　into　the　first　mud…hole；　which　was　immediately　succeeded　by　another　and　another。　The　marl　or　mud　and　water　was　knee…deep　with　little　intervals　of　firmer　ground　between；　making　progression　exceedingly　difficult。　The　path　was　bordered　with　high　rigid　grass；　brewing　in　dense　clumps　separated　by　water；　so　that　nothing　was　to　be　gained　by　leaving　the　beaten　track；　and　we　were　obliged　to　go　floundering　on；　never　knowing　where　our　feet　would　rest；　as　the　mud　was　now　a　few　inches；　now　two　feet　deep；　and　the　bottom　very　uneven；　so　that　the　foot　slid　down　to　the　lowest　part；　and　made　it　difficult　to　keep　one's　balance。　One　step　would　be　upon　a　concealed　stick　or　log；　almost　dislocating　the　ankle；　while　the　next　would　plunge　into　soft　mud　above　the　knee。　It　rained　all　the　way；　and　the　long　grass；　six　feet　high；　met　over　the　path；　so　that　we　could　not　see　a　step　of　the　way　ahead；　and　received　a　double　drenching。　Before　we　got　to　the　village　it　was　dark；　and　we　had　to　cross　over　a　small　but　deep　and　swollen　stream　by　a　narrow　log　of　wood；　which　was　more　than　a　foot　under　water。　There　was　a　slender　shaking　stick　for　a　handrail；　and　it　was　nervous　work　feeling　in　the　dark　in　the　rushing　water　for　a　safe　place　on　which　to　place　the　advanced　foot。　After　au　hour　of　this　most　disagreeable　and　fatiguing　walk　we　reached　the　village；　followed　by　the　men　with　our　guns；　ammunition；　boxes；　and　bedding　all　more　or　less　soaked。　We　consoled　ourselves　with　some　hot　tea　and　cold　fowl；　and　went　early　to　bed。

The　next　morning　was　clear　and　fine；　and　I　set　out　soon　after　sunrise　to　explore　the　neighbourhood。　The　village　had　evidently　been　newly　formed；　and　consisted　of　a　single　straight　street　of　very　miserable　huts　totally　deficient　in　every　comfort；　and　as　bare　and　cheerless　inside　as　out。　It　was　situated　on　a　little　elevated　patch　of　coarse　gravelly　soil；　covered　with　the　usual　high　rigid　grass；　which　came　up　close　to　the　backs　of　the　houses。　At　a　short　distance　in　several　directions　were　patches　of　forest；　but　all　on　low　and　swampy　ground。　I　made　one　attempt　along　the　only　path　I　could　find；　but　soon　came　upon　a　deep　mud…hole；　and　found　that　I　must　walk　barefoot　if　at　all；　so　I　returned　and　deferred　further　exploration　till　after　breakfast。　I　then　went　on　into　the　jungle　and　found　patches　of　sago…palms　and　a　low　forest　vegetation；　but　the　paths　were　everywhere　full　of　mud…holes；　and　intersected　by　muddy　streams　and　tracts　of　swamp；　so　that　walking　was　not　pleasurable；　and　too　much　attention　to　one's　steps　was　not　favourable　to　insect　catching；　which　requires　above　everything　freedom　of　motion。　I　shot　a　few　birds；　and　caught　a　few　butterflies；　but　all　were　the　same　as　I　had　already　obtained　about　Cajeli。

On　my　return　to　the　village　I　was　told　that　the　same　kind　of　ground　extended　for　many　miles　in　every　direction；　and　I　at　once　decided　that　Wayapo　was　not　a　suitable　place　to　stay　at。　The　next　morning　early　we　waded　back　again　through　the　mud　and　long　wet　grass　to　our　boat；　and　by　mid…day　reached　Cajeli；　where　I　waited　Ali's　return　to　decide　on　my　future　movements。　He　came　the　following　day；　and　gave　a　very　bad　account　of　Pelah；　where　he　had　been。　There　was　a　little　brush　and　trees　along　the　beach；　and　hills　inland　covered　with　high　grass　and　cajuputi　treesmy　dread　and　abhorrence。　On　inquiring　who　could　give　me　trustworthy　information；　I　was　referred　to　the　Lieutenant　of　the　Burghers；　who　had　travelled　all　round　the　island；　and　was　a　very　intelligent　fellow。　I　asked　him　to　tell　me　if　he　knew　of　any　part　of　Bouru　where　there　was　no　〃kusu…kusu；〃　as　the　coarse　grass　of　the　country　is　called。　He　assured　me　that　a　good　deal　of　the　south　coast　was　forest　land；　while　along　the　north　was　almost　entirely　swamp　and　grassy　hills。　After　minute　inquiries；　I　found　that　the　forest　country　commenced　at　a　place　called　Waypoti；　only　a　few　miles　beyond　Pelah；　but　that；　as　the　coast　beyond　that　place　was　exposed　to　the　east　monsoon　and　dangerous　for　praus；　it　was　necessary　to　walk。　I　immediately　went　to　the　Opzeiner；　and　he　called　the　Rajah。　We　had　a　consultation；　and　arranged　for　a　boat　to　take　me　the　next　evening　but　one；　to　Pelah；　whence　I　was　to　proceed　on　foot；　the　Orang…kaya　going　the　day　before　to　call　the　Alfuros　to　carry　my　baggage。

The　journey　was　made　as　arranged；　and　on　May　19th　we　arrived　at　Waypoti；　having　walked　about　ten　miles　along　the　beach；　and　through　stony　forest　bordering　the　sea；　with　occasional　plunges　of　a　mile　or　two　into　the　interior。　We　found　no　village；　but　scattered　houses　and　plantations；　with　hilly　country　pretty　well　covered　with　forest；　and　looking　rather　promising。　A　low　hut　with　a　very　rotten　roof；　showing　the　sky　through　in　several　places；　was　the　only　one　I　could　obtain。　Luckily　it　did　not　rain　that　night；　and　the　next　day　we　pulled　down　some　of　the　walls　to　repair　the　roof；　which　was　of　immediate　importance；　especially　over　our　beds　and　table。

About　half　a　mile　from　the　house　was　a　fine　mountain　stream；　running　swiftly　over　a　bed　of　rocks　and　pebbles；　and　beyond　this　was　a　hill　covered　with　fine　forest。　By　carefully　picking　my　way　I　could　wade　across　this　river　without　getting　much　above　my　knees；　although　I　would　sometimes　slip　off　a　rock　and　go　into　a　hole　up　to　my　waist；　and　about　twice　a　week　I　went　across　it　in　order　to　explore　the　forest。　Unfortunately　there　were　no　paths　here　of　any　extent；　and　it　did　not　prove　very　productive　either　in　insects　or　birds。　To　add　to　my　difficulties　I　had　stupidly　left　my　only　pair　of　strong　hoots　on　board　the　steamer；　and　my　others　were　by　this　time　all　dropping　to　pieces；　so　that　I　was　obliged　to　walk　about　barefooted；　and　in　constant　fear　of　hurting　my　feet；　and　causing　a　wound　which　might　lay　me　up　for　weeks；　as　had　happened　in　Borneo；　Are；　and　Dorey。　Although　there　were　numerous　plantations　of　maize　and　plantains；　there　were　no　new　clearings；　and　as　without　these　it　is　almost　impossible　to　find　many　of　the　best　kinds　of　insects；　I　determined　to　make　one　myself；　and　with　much　difficulty　engaged　two　men　to　clear　a　patch　of　forest；　from　which　I　hoped　to　obtain　many　fine　beetles　before　I　left。

During　the　whole　of　my　stay；　however；　insects　never　became　plentiful。　My　clearing　produced　me　a　few　fine；　longicorns　and　Buprestidae；　different　from　any　I　had　before　seen；　together　with　several　of　the　Amboyna　species；　but　by　no　means　so　numerous　or；　so　beautiful　as　I　had　found　in　that　small　island。　For　example；　I　collected　only　210　different　kinds　of　beetles　during　my　two　months'　stay　at　Bourn；　while　in　three　weeks　at　Amboyna；　in　1857；　I　found　more　than　300　species：　One　of　the　finest　insects　found　at　Bouru　was　a　large　Cerambyx；　of　a　deep　shining　chestnut　colour；　and　with　very　long　antennae。　It　varied　greatly　in　size；　the　largest　specimens　being　three　inches　long；　while　the　smallest　were　only　an　inch；　the　antenna　varying　from　one　and　a　half　to　five　inches。

One　day　my　boy　Ali　came　home　with　a　story　of　a　big　snake。　He　was　walking　through　some　high　grass；　and　stepped　on　something　which　he　took　for　a　small　fallen　tree；　but　it　felt　cold　and　yielding　to　his　feet；　and　far　to　the　right　and　left　there　was　a　waving　and　rustling　of　the　herbage。　He　jumped　back　in　affright　and　prepared　to　shoot；　but　could　not　get　a　good　vies　of　the　creature；　and　it　passed　away；　he　said；　like　a　tree　being　dragged　along　through　the　grass。　As　he　lead　several　times　already　shot　large　snakes；　which　he　declared　were　all　as　nothing　compared　with　this；　I　am　inclined　to　believe　it　must　really　have　been　a　monster。　Such　creatures　are　rather　plentiful　here；　for　a　man　living　close　by　showed　me　on　his　thigh　the　marks　where　he　bad　been　seized　by　one　close　to　his　house。　It　was　big　enough　to　take　the　man's　thigh　in　its　mouth；　and　he　would　probably　have　been　killed　and　devoured　by　it　had　not　his　cries　brought　out　his　neighbours；　who　destroyed　it　with　their　choppers。　As　far　as　I　could　make　out　it　was　about　twenty　feet　long；　but　Ali's　was　probably　much　larger。

It　sometimes　amuses　me　to　observe　how；　a　few　days　after　I　have　taken　possession　of　it；　a　native　hut　seems　quite　a　comfortable　home。　My　house　at　Waypoti　was　a　bare　shed；　with　a　large　bamboo　platform　at　one　side。　At　one　end　of　this　platform；　which　was　elevated　about　three　feet；　I　fixed　up　my　mosquito　curtain；　and　partly　enclosed　it　with　a　large　Scotch　plaid；　making　a　comfortable　little　sleeping　apartment。　I　put　up　a　rude　table　on　legs　buried　in　the　earthen　floor；　and　had　my　comfortable　rattan…　chair　for　a　seat。　A　line　across　one　corner　carried　my　daily…　washed　cotton　clothing；　and　on　a　bamboo　shelf　was　arranged　my　small　stock　of　crockery　and　hardware：　Boxes　were　ranged　against　the　thatch　walls；　and　hanging　shelves；　to　preserve　my　collections　from　ants　while　drying；　were　suspended　both　without　and　within　the　house。　On　my　table　lay　books；　penknives；　scissors；　pliers；　and　pins；　with　insect　and　bird　labels；　all　of　which　were　unsolved　mysteries　to　the　native　mind。

Most　of　the　people　here　had　never　seen　a　pin；　and　the　better　informed　took　a　pride　in　teaching　their　more　ignorant　companions　the　peculiarities　and　uses　of　that　strange　European　productiona　needle　with　a　head；　but　no　eye！　Even　paper；　which　we　throw　away　hourly　as　rubbish；　was　to　them　a　curiosity；　and　I　often　saw　them　picking　up　little　scraps　which　had　been　swept　out　of　the　house；　and　carefully　putting　them　away　in　their　betel…pouch。　Then　when　I　took　my　morning　coffee　and　evening　tea；　how　many　were　the　strange　things　displayed　to　them！　Teapot；　teacups；　teaspoons；　were　all　more　or　less　curious　in　their　eyes；　tea；　sugar；　biscuit；　and　butter；　were　articles　of　human　consumption　seen　by　many　of　them　for　the　first　time。　One　asks　if　that　whitish　powder　is　〃gula　passir〃　（sand…sugar）；　so　called　to　distinguish　it　from　the　coarse　lump　palm…sugar　or　molasses　of　native　manufacture；　and