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The¡¡Spirit¡¡of¡¡Place¡¡and¡¡Other¡¡Essays



by¡¡Alice¡¡Meynell







Contents£º



The¡¡Spirit¡¡of¡¡Place

Mrs¡£¡¡Dingley

Solitude

The¡¡Lady¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Lyrics

July

Wells

The¡¡Foot

Have¡¡Patience£»¡¡Little¡¡Saint

The¡¡Ladies¡¡of¡¡the¡¡Idyll

A¡¡Derivation

A¡¡Counterchange

Rain

Letters¡¡of¡¡Marceline¡¡Valmore

The¡¡Hours¡¡of¡¡Sleep

The¡¡Horizon

Habits¡¡and¡¡Consciousness

Shadows







THE¡¡SPIRIT¡¡OF¡¡PLACE







With¡¡mimicry£»¡¡with¡¡praises£»¡¡with¡¡echoes£»¡¡or¡¡with¡¡answers£»¡¡the¡¡poets

have¡¡all¡¡but¡¡outsung¡¡the¡¡bells¡£¡¡¡¡The¡¡inarticulate¡¡bell¡¡has¡¡found¡¡too

much¡¡interpretation£»¡¡too¡¡many¡¡rhymes¡¡professing¡¡to¡¡close¡¡with¡¡her

inaccessible¡¡utterance£»¡¡and¡¡to¡¡agree¡¡with¡¡her¡¡remote¡¡tongue¡£¡¡¡¡The

bell£»¡¡like¡¡the¡¡bird£»¡¡is¡¡a¡¡musician¡¡pestered¡¡with¡¡literature¡£



To¡¡the¡¡bell£»¡¡moreover£»¡¡men¡¡do¡¡actual¡¡violence¡£¡¡¡¡You¡¡cannot¡¡shake

together¡¡a¡¡nightingale's¡¡notes£»¡¡or¡¡strike¡¡or¡¡drive¡¡them¡¡into¡¡haste£»

nor¡¡can¡¡you¡¡make¡¡a¡¡lark¡¡toll¡¡for¡¡you¡¡with¡¡intervals¡¡to¡¡suit¡¡your

turn£»¡¡whereas¡¡wedding¡­bells¡¡are¡¡compelled¡¡to¡¡seem¡¡gay¡¡by¡¡mere

movement¡¡and¡¡hustling¡£¡¡¡¡I¡¡have¡¡known¡¡some¡¡grim¡¡bells£»¡¡with¡¡not¡¡a

single¡¡joyous¡¡note¡¡in¡¡the¡¡whole¡¡peal£»¡¡so¡¡forced¡¡to¡¡hurry¡¡for¡¡a¡¡human

festival£»¡¡with¡¡their¡¡harshness¡¡made¡¡light¡¡of£»¡¡as¡¡though¡¡the¡¡Bishop

of¡¡Hereford¡¡had¡¡again¡¡been¡¡forced¡¡to¡¡dance¡¡in¡¡his¡¡boots¡¡by¡¡a¡¡merry

highwayman¡£



The¡¡clock¡¡is¡¡an¡¡inexorable¡¡but¡¡less¡¡arbitrary¡¡player¡¡than¡¡the

bellringer£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡chimes¡¡await¡¡their¡¡appointed¡¡time¡¡to¡¡flywild

prisonersby¡¡twos¡¡or¡¡threes£»¡¡or¡¡in¡¡greater¡¡companies¡£¡¡¡¡Fugitives

one¡¡or¡¡twelve¡¡taking¡¡wingthey¡¡are¡¡sudden£»¡¡they¡¡are¡¡brief£»¡¡they¡¡are

gone£»¡¡they¡¡are¡¡delivered¡¡from¡¡the¡¡close¡¡hands¡¡of¡¡this¡¡actual

present¡£¡¡¡¡Not¡¡in¡¡vain¡¡is¡¡the¡¡sudden¡¡upper¡¡door¡¡opened¡¡against¡¡the

sky£»¡¡they¡¡are¡¡away£»¡¡hours¡¡of¡¡the¡¡past¡£



Of¡¡all¡¡unfamiliar¡¡bells£»¡¡those¡¡which¡¡seem¡¡to¡¡hold¡¡the¡¡memory¡¡most

surely¡¡after¡¡but¡¡one¡¡hearing¡¡are¡¡bells¡¡of¡¡an¡¡unseen¡¡cathedral¡¡of

France¡¡when¡¡one¡¡has¡¡arrived¡¡by¡¡night£»¡¡they¡¡are¡¡no¡¡more¡¡to¡¡be

forgotten¡¡than¡¡the¡¡bells¡¡in¡¡¡¨Parsifal¡£¡¨¡¡¡¡They¡¡mingle¡¡with¡¡the¡¡sound

of¡¡feet¡¡in¡¡unknown¡¡streets£»¡¡they¡¡are¡¡the¡¡voices¡¡of¡¡an¡¡unknown¡¡tower£»

they¡¡are¡¡loud¡¡in¡¡their¡¡own¡¡language¡£¡¡¡¡The¡¡spirit¡¡of¡¡place£»¡¡which¡¡is

to¡¡be¡¡seen¡¡in¡¡the¡¡shapes¡¡of¡¡the¡¡fields¡¡and¡¡the¡¡manner¡¡of¡¡the¡¡crops£»

to¡¡be¡¡felt¡¡in¡¡a¡¡prevalent¡¡wind£»¡¡breathed¡¡in¡¡the¡¡breath¡¡of¡¡the¡¡earth£»

overheard¡¡in¡¡a¡¡far¡¡street¡­cry¡¡or¡¡in¡¡the¡¡tinkle¡¡of¡¡some¡¡black¡­smith£»

calls¡¡out¡¡and¡¡peals¡¡in¡¡the¡¡cathedral¡¡bells¡£¡¡¡¡It¡¡speaks¡¡its¡¡local

tongue¡¡remotely£»¡¡steadfastly£»¡¡largely£»¡¡clamorously£»¡¡loudly£»¡¡and

greatly¡¡by¡¡these¡¡voices£»¡¡you¡¡hear¡¡the¡¡sound¡¡in¡¡its¡¡dignity£»¡¡and¡¡you

know¡¡how¡¡familiar£»¡¡how¡¡childlike£»¡¡how¡¡lifelong¡¡it¡¡is¡¡in¡¡the¡¡ears¡¡of

the¡¡people¡£¡¡¡¡The¡¡bells¡¡are¡¡strange£»¡¡and¡¡you¡¡know¡¡how¡¡homely¡¡they

must¡¡be¡£¡¡¡¡Their¡¡utterances¡¡are£»¡¡as¡¡it¡¡were£»¡¡the¡¡classics¡¡of¡¡a

dialect¡£



Spirit¡¡of¡¡place£¡¡¡¡¡It¡¡is¡¡for¡¡this¡¡we¡¡travel£»¡¡to¡¡surprise¡¡its

subtlety£»¡¡and¡¡where¡¡it¡¡is¡¡a¡¡strong¡¡and¡¡dominant¡¡angel£»¡¡that¡¡place£»

seen¡¡once£»¡¡abides¡¡entire¡¡in¡¡the¡¡memory¡¡with¡¡all¡¡its¡¡own¡¡accidents£»

its¡¡habits£»¡¡its¡¡breath£»¡¡its¡¡name¡£¡¡¡¡It¡¡is¡¡recalled¡¡all¡¡a¡¡lifetime£»

having¡¡been¡¡perceived¡¡a¡¡week£»¡¡and¡¡is¡¡not¡¡scattered¡¡but¡¡abides£»¡¡one

living¡¡body¡¡of¡¡remembrance¡£¡¡¡¡The¡¡untravelled¡¡spirit¡¡of¡¡placenot¡¡to

be¡¡pursued£»¡¡for¡¡it¡¡never¡¡flies£»¡¡but¡¡always¡¡to¡¡be¡¡discovered£»¡¡never

absent£»¡¡without¡¡variationlurks¡¡in¡¡the¡¡by¡­ways¡¡and¡¡rules¡¡over¡¡the

towers£»¡¡indestructible£»¡¡an¡¡indescribable¡¡unity¡£¡¡¡¡It¡¡awaits¡¡us¡¡always

in¡¡its¡¡ancient¡¡and¡¡eager¡¡freshness¡£¡¡¡¡It¡¡is¡¡sweet¡¡and¡¡nimble¡¡within

its¡¡immemorial¡¡boundaries£»¡¡but¡¡it¡¡never¡¡crosses¡¡them¡£¡¡¡¡Long¡¡white

roads¡¡outside¡¡have¡¡mere¡¡suggestions¡¡of¡¡it¡¡and¡¡prophecies£»¡¡they¡¡give

promise¡¡not¡¡of¡¡its¡¡coming£»¡¡for¡¡it¡¡abides£»¡¡but¡¡of¡¡a¡¡new¡¡and¡¡singular

and¡¡unforeseen¡¡goal¡¡for¡¡our¡¡present¡¡pilgrimage£»¡¡and¡¡of¡¡an¡¡intimacy

to¡¡be¡¡made¡£¡¡¡¡Was¡¡ever¡¡journey¡¡too¡¡hard¡¡or¡¡too¡¡long¡¡that¡¡had¡¡to¡¡pay

such¡¡a¡¡visit£¿¡¡¡¡And¡¡if¡¡by¡¡good¡¡fortune¡¡it¡¡is¡¡a¡¡child¡¡who¡¡is¡¡the

pilgrim£»¡¡the¡¡spirit¡¡of¡¡place¡¡gives¡¡him¡¡a¡¡peculiar¡¡welcome£»¡¡for

antiquity¡¡and¡¡the¡¡conceiver¡¡of¡¡antiquity¡¡£¨who¡¡is¡¡only¡¡a¡¡child£©¡¡know

one¡¡another£»¡¡nor¡¡is¡¡there¡¡a¡¡more¡¡delicate¡¡perceiver¡¡of¡¡locality¡¡than

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those¡¡unknown¡¡words¡¡are¡¡bells£»¡¡loud¡¡in¡¡the¡¡night£»¡¡they¡¡are¡¡to¡¡him¡¡as

homely¡¡and¡¡as¡¡old¡¡as¡¡lullabies¡£



If£»¡¡especially¡¡in¡¡England£»¡¡we¡¡make¡¡rough¡¡and¡¡reluctant¡¡bells¡¡go¡¡in

gay¡¡measures£»¡¡when¡¡we¡¡whip¡¡them¡¡to¡¡run¡¡down¡¡the¡¡scale¡¡to¡¡ring¡¡in¡¡a

weddingbells¡¡that¡¡would¡¡step¡¡to¡¡quite¡¡another¡¡and¡¡a¡¡less¡¡agile

march¡¡with¡¡a¡¡better¡¡gracethere¡¡are¡¡belfries¡¡that¡¡hold¡¡far¡¡sweeter

companies¡£¡¡¡¡If¡¡there¡¡is¡¡no¡¡music¡¡within¡¡Italian¡¡churches£»¡¡there¡¡is¡¡a

most¡¡curious¡¡local¡¡immemorial¡¡music¡¡in¡¡many¡¡a¡¡campanile¡¡on¡¡the

heights¡£¡¡¡¡Their¡¡way¡¡is¡¡for¡¡the¡¡ringers¡¡to¡¡play¡¡a¡¡tune¡¡on¡¡the

festivals£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡tunes¡¡are¡¡not¡¡hymn¡¡tunes¡¡or¡¡popular¡¡melodies£»¡¡but

proper¡¡bell¡­tunes£»¡¡made¡¡for¡¡bells¡£¡¡¡¡Doubtless¡¡they¡¡were¡¡made¡¡in

times¡¡better¡¡versed¡¡than¡¡ours¡¡in¡¡the¡¡sub¡­divisions¡¡of¡¡the¡¡arts£»¡¡and

better¡¡able¡¡to¡¡understand¡¡the¡¡strength¡¡that¡¡lies¡¡ready¡¡in¡¡the¡¡mere

little¡¡submission¡¡to¡¡the¡¡means¡¡of¡¡a¡¡little¡¡art£»¡¡and¡¡to¡¡the¡¡limits

nay£»¡¡the¡¡very¡¡embarrassmentsof¡¡those¡¡means¡£¡¡¡¡If¡¡it¡¡were¡¡but

possible¡¡to¡¡give¡¡here¡¡a¡¡real¡¡bell¡­tunewhich¡¡cannot¡¡be£»¡¡for¡¡those

melodies¡¡are¡¡rather¡¡longthe¡¡reader¡¡would¡¡understand¡¡how¡¡some

village¡¡musician¡¡of¡¡the¡¡past¡¡used¡¡his¡¡narrow¡¡means¡¡as¡¡a¡¡composer¡¡for

the¡¡bells£»¡¡with¡¡what¡¡freshness£»¡¡completeness£»¡¡significance£»¡¡fancy£»

and¡¡what¡¡effect¡¡of¡¡liberty¡£



These¡¡hamlet¡­bells¡¡are¡¡the¡¡sweetest£»¡¡as¡¡to¡¡their¡¡own¡¡voices£»¡¡in¡¡the

world¡£¡¡¡¡Then¡¡I¡¡speak¡¡of¡¡their¡¡antiquity¡¡I¡¡use¡¡the¡¡word¡¡relatively¡£

The¡¡belfries¡¡are¡¡no¡¡older¡¡than¡¡the¡¡sixteenth¡¡or¡¡seventeenth¡¡century£»

the¡¡time¡¡when¡¡Italy¡¡seems¡¡to¡¡have¡¡been¡¡generally¡¡rebuilt¡£¡¡¡¡But£»

needless¡¡to¡¡say£»¡¡this¡¡is¡¡antiquity¡¡for¡¡music£»¡¡especially¡¡in¡¡Italy¡£

At¡¡that¡¡time¡¡they¡¡must¡¡have¡¡had¡¡foundries¡¡for¡¡bells¡¡of¡¡tender

voices£»¡¡and¡¡pure£»¡¡warm£»¡¡light£»¡¡and¡¡golden¡¡throats£»¡¡precisely¡¡tuned¡£

The¡¡hounds¡¡of¡¡Theseus¡¡had¡¡not¡¡a¡¡more¡¡just¡¡scale£»¡¡tuned¡¡in¡¡a¡¡peal£»

than¡¡a¡¡North¡¡Italian¡¡belfry¡¡holds¡¡in¡¡leash¡£¡¡¡¡But¡¡it¡¡does¡¡not¡¡send

them¡¡out¡¡in¡¡a¡¡mere¡¡scale£»¡¡it¡¡touches¡¡them¡¡in¡¡the¡¡order¡¡of¡¡the¡¡game

of¡¡a¡¡charming¡¡melody¡£¡¡¡¡Of¡¡all¡¡cheerful¡¡sounds¡¡made¡¡by¡¡man¡¡this¡¡is¡¡by

far¡¡the¡¡most¡¡light¡­hearted¡£¡¡¡¡You¡¡do¡¡not¡¡hear¡¡it¡¡from¡¡the¡¡great

churches¡£¡¡¡¡Giotto's¡¡coloured¡¡tower¡¡in¡¡Florence£»¡¡that¡¡carries¡¡the

bells¡¡for¡¡Santa¡¡Maria¡¡del¡¡Fiore¡¡and¡¡Brunelleschi's¡¡silent¡¡dome£»¡¡does

not¡¡ring¡¡more¡¡than¡¡four¡¡contralto¡¡notes£»¡¡tuned¡¡with¡¡sweetness£»

depth£»¡¡and¡¡dignity£»¡¡and¡¡swinging¡¡one¡¡musical¡¡phrase¡¡which¡¡softly

fills¡¡the¡¡country¡£



The¡¡village¡¡belfry¡¡it¡¡is¡¡that¡¡grows¡¡so¡¡fantastic¡¡and¡¡has¡¡such¡¡nimble

bells¡£¡¡¡¡Obviously¡¡it¡¡stands¡¡alone¡¡with¡¡its¡¡own¡¡village£»¡¡and¡¡can

therefore¡¡hear¡¡its¡¡own¡¡tune¡¡from¡¡beginning¡¡to¡¡end¡£¡¡¡¡There¡¡are¡¡no

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local¡¡tune¡¡is¡¡uninterrupted¡£¡¡¡¡Doubtless¡¡this¡¡is¡¡why¡¡the¡¡little£»

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tunes¡¡in¡¡a¡¡town¡¡would¡¡get¡¡this¡¡hearing£»¡¡or¡¡would¡¡be¡¡made¡¡clear¡¡to

the¡¡end¡¡of¡¡their¡¡frolic¡¡amid¡¡such¡¡a¡¡wide¡¡and¡¡lofty¡¡silence¡£



Nor¡¡does¡¡every¡¡inner¡¡village¡¡of¡¡Italy¡¡hold¡¡a¡¡bell¡­tune¡¡of¡¡its¡¡own£»

the¡¡custom¡¡is¡¡Ligurian¡£¡¡¡¡Nowhere¡¡so¡¡much¡¡as¡¡in¡¡Genoa¡¡does¡¡the

nervous¡¡tourist¡¡complain¡¡of¡¡church¡¡bells¡¡in¡¡the¡¡morning£»¡¡and¡¡in¡¡fact

he¡¡is¡¡made¡¡to¡¡hear¡¡an¡¡honest¡¡rout¡¡of¡¡them¡¡betimes¡£¡¡¡¡But¡¡the¡¡nervous

tourist¡¡has¡¡not£»¡¡perhaps£»¡¡the¡¡sense¡¡of¡¡place£»¡¡and¡¡the¡¡genius¡¡of

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their¡¡tunes¡£¡¡¡¡Variable¡¡are¡¡those¡¡lonely¡¡melodies£»¡¡having¡¡a¡¡differing

gaiety¡¡for¡¡the¡¡festivals£»¡¡and¡¡a¡¡pitiful¡¡air¡¡is¡¡played¡¡for¡¡the¡¡burial

of¡¡a¡¡villager¡£



As¡¡for¡¡the¡¡poets£»¡¡there¡¡is¡¡but¡¡one¡¡among¡¡so¡¡many¡¡of¡¡their¡¡bells¡¡that

seems¡¡to¡¡toll¡¡with¡¡a¡¡spiritual¡¡music¡¡so¡¡loud¡¡as¡¡to¡¡be¡¡unforgotten

when¡¡the¡¡mind¡¡goes¡¡up¡¡a¡¡little¡¡higher¡¡than¡¡the¡¡earth£»¡¡to¡¡listen¡¡in

thought¡¡to¡¡earth's¡¡untethered¡¡sounds¡£¡¡¡¡This¡¡is¡¡Milton's¡¡curfew£»¡¡that

sways¡¡across¡¡one¡¡of¡¡the¡¡greatest¡¡of¡¡all¡¡the¡¡seashores¡¡of¡¡poetry

¡¨the¡¡wide¡­watered¡£¡¨







MRS¡£¡¡DINGLEY







We¡¡cannot¡¡do¡¡her¡¡honour¡¡by¡¡her¡¡Christian¡¡name¡£¡¡£û1£ý¡¡¡¡All¡¡we¡¡have¡¡to

call¡¡her¡¡by¡¡more¡¡tenderly¡¡is¡¡the¡¡mere¡¡D£»¡¡the¡¡D¡¡that¡¡ties¡¡her¡¡to

Stella£»¡¡with¡¡whom¡¡she¡¡made¡¡the¡¡two¡­in¡­one¡¡whom¡¡Swift¡¡loved¡¡¡¨better¡¡a

thousand¡¡times¡¡than¡¡life£»¡¡as¡¡hope¡¡saved¡£¡¨¡¡¡¡MD£»¡¡without¡¡full¡¡stops£»

Swift¡¡writes¡¡it¡¡eight¡¡times¡¡in¡¡a¡¡line¡¡for¡¡the¡¡pleasure¡¡of¡¡writing

it¡£¡¡¡¡¡¨MD¡¡sometimes¡¡means¡¡Stella¡¡alone£»¡¨¡¡says¡¡one¡¡of¡¡many¡¡editors¡£

¡¨The¡¡letters¡¡were¡¡written¡¡nominally¡¡to¡¡Stella¡¡and¡¡Mrs¡£¡¡Dingley£»¡¨

says¡¡another£»¡¡¡¨but¡¡it¡¡does¡¡not¡¡require¡¡to¡¡be¡¡said¡¡that¡¡it¡¡was¡¡really

for¡¡Stella's¡¡sake¡¡alone¡¡that¡¡they¡¡were¡¡penned¡£¡¨¡¡¡¡Not¡¡so¡£¡¡¡¡¡¨MD¡¨¡¡never

stands¡¡for¡¡Stella¡¡alone¡£¡¡¡¡And¡¡the¡¡editor¡¡does¡¡not¡¡yet¡¡live¡¡who¡¡shall

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loved¡¡Stella¡¡only£»¡¡with¡¡an¡¡ordinary¡¡love£»¡¡and¡¡not£»¡¡by¡¡a¡¡most

delicate¡¡exception£»¡¡Stella¡¡and¡¡Dingley£»¡¡so¡¡joined¡¡that¡¡they¡¡make¡¡the

¡¨she¡¨¡¡and¡¡¡¨her¡¨¡¡of¡¡every¡¡letter¡£¡¡¡¡And¡¡this¡¡shall¡¡be¡¡a¡¡paper¡¡of

reparation¡¡to¡¡Mrs¡£¡¡Dingley¡£



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honours¡£¡¡¡¡In¡¡love¡¡¡¨to¡¡divide¡¡is¡¡not¡¡to¡¡take¡¡away£»¡¨¡¡as¡¡Shelley¡¡says£»

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whole£»¡¡and¡¡takes¡¡nothing¡¡from¡¡the¡¡whole¡¡of¡¡Stella's¡¡half¡£¡¡¡¡But¡¡the

sentimentalist¡¡has¡¡fought¡¡against¡¡Mrs¡£¡¡Dingley¡¡from¡¡the¡¡outset¡£¡¡¡¡He

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modern¡¡representatives¡¡he¡¡has¡¡but¡¡lately¡¡called¡¡her¡¡a¡¡¡¨chaperon¡£¡¨¡¡¡¡A

chaperon£¡



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pressed¡¡into¡¡that¡¡character£»¡¡D¡¡certainly¡¡was¡¡not£»¡¡and¡¡has¡¡in¡¡this

respect¡¡been¡¡spared¡¡by¡¡the¡¡chronicler£»¡¡and¡¡MD¡¡together¡¡were¡¡¡¨saucy

charming¡¡MD£»¡¨¡¡¡¨saucy¡¡little£»¡¡pretty£»¡¡dear¡¡rogues£»¡¨¡¡¡¨little¡¡monkeys

mine£»¡¨¡¡¡¨little¡¡mischievous¡¡girls£»¡¨¡¡¡¨nautinautinautidear¡¡girls£»¡¨

¡¨brats£»¡¨¡¡¡¨huzzies¡¡both£»¡¨¡¡¡¨impudence¡¡and¡¡saucy¡­face£»¡¨¡¡¡¨saucy¡¡noses£»¡¨

¡¨my¡¡dearest¡¡lives¡¡and¡¡delights£»¡¨¡¡¡¨dear¡¡little¡¡young¡¡women£»¡¨¡¡¡¨good

dallars£»¡¡not¡¡crying¡¡dallars¡¨¡¡£¨which¡¡means¡¡¡¨girls¡¨£©£»¡¡¡¨ten¡¡thousand

times¡¡dearest¡¡MD£»¡¨¡¡and¡¡so¡¡forth¡¡in¡¡a¡¡hundred¡¡repetitions¡£¡¡¡¡They¡¡are£»

every¡¡now¡¡and¡¡then£»¡¡¡¨poor¡¡MD£»¡¨¡¡but¡¡obviously¡¡not¡¡because¡¡of¡¡their

own¡¡complaining¡£¡¡¡¡Swift¡¡called¡¡them¡¡so¡¡because¡¡they¡¡were¡¡mortal£»¡¡and

he£»¡¡like¡¡all¡¡great¡¡souls£»¡¡lived¡¡and¡¡loved£»¡¡conscious¡¡every¡¡day¡¡of

the¡¡price£»¡¡which¡¡is¡¡death¡£



The¡¡two¡¡were¡¡joined¡¡by¡¡love£»¡¡not¡¡without¡¡solemnity£»¡¡though¡¡man£»¡¡with

his¡¡summary¡¡and¡¡wholesale¡¡ready¡­made¡¡sentiment£»¡¡has¡¡thus¡¡obstinately

put¡¡them¡¡asunder¡£¡¡¡¡No¡¡wholesale¡¡sentiment¡¡can¡¡do¡¡otherwise¡¡than

foolishly¡¡play¡¡havoc¡¡with¡¡such¡¡a¡¡re

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