letters-第26章
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various saints are some of the most magnificent paintings which Spanish art has produced。 Here are to be seen the far…famed 'Angel of the Guard；' by Murillo； his 'Saint Anthony at Devotion；' the celestial spirits hovering around him； and Saint Thomas of Villa Nueva bestowing Charity'； there are also some pictures by Soberan ＇？ Zurbaran＇ of almost inestimable value。 Indeed； the cathedral at Seville is at the present time far more rich in splendid paintings than at any former period； possessing many very recently removed from some of the suppressed convents； particularly from the Capuchin and Franciscan。
No one should visit Seville without paying particular attention to the Alcazar。 It is perhaps the most perfect specimen of Moorish architecture which is at present to be found in Europe。 It contains many splendid halls； particularly that of the Ambassadors； so called； which is in every respect more magnificent than the one of the same name within the Alhambra of Granada。 This palace was a favourite residence of Peter the Cruel； who carefully repaired it； without altering its Moorish character and appearance。 It probably remains in much the same state as at the time of his death。
On the right side of the river is a large suburb called Triana； communicating with Seville by means of a bridge of boats； for there is no permanent bridge across the Guadalquivir owing to the violent inundations to which it is subject。 This suburb is inhabited by the dregs of the populace； and abounds with Gitanos or Gypsies。 About a league and a half to the north…west stands the village of Santo Ponce； at the foot and on the side of some elevated ground higher up are to be seen vestiges of ruined walls and edifices which once formed part of Italica； the birth…place of Silius Italicus and Trajan； from which latter personage Triana derives its name。 One fine morning I walked thither； and having ascended the hill I directed my course northward。 I soon reached what had once been bagnios； and a little farther on； in a kind of valley between two gentle acclivities； the amphitheatre。 This latter object is by far the most considerable relic of ancient Italica； it is oval in its form； with two gateways； fronting the east and west。 On all sides are to be seen the time…worn broken granite benches； from whence myriads of human beings once gazed down on the area below； where the gladiator shouted； and the lion and leopard yelled。 All around beneath these flights of benches are vaulted excavations； from whence the combatants； part human； part bestial； darted forth by their several doors。 I spent several hours in this singular place； forcing my way through the wild fennel and brushwood into the caverns； now the haunts of adders and other reptiles； whose hissings I heard。 Having sated my curiosity； I left the ruins； and returning by another way reached a place where lay the carcase of a horse half…devoured。 Upon it with lustrous eyes stood an enormous vulture； who； as I approached； slowly soared aloft till he alighted on the eastern gate of the amphitheatre； from whence he uttered a hoarse cry； as if in anger that I had disturbed him from his feast of carrion。
And now for another subject。 You are doubtless anxious to know what are my projects； and why I am not by this time further advanced on my way to Madrid； know then that the way to Madrid is beset with more perils than harassed Christian in his route to the Eternal Kingdom。 Almost all communication is at an end between this place and the capital； the diligences and waggons have ceased running； even the bold ARRIEROS or muleteers are at a stand…still； and the reason is that the rural portion of Spain； especially this part； is in a state of complete disorganisation and of blackest horror。 The three fiends； famine； plunder； and murder； are playing their ghastly revels unchecked； bands of miscreants captained by such … what shall I call them？ … as Orejita and Palillos； are prowling about in every direction； and woe to those whom they meet。 A few days since they intercepted an unfortunate courier； and after scooping out his eyes put him to death with most painful tortures； and mangled his body in a way not to be mentioned。 Moreover； the peasantry； who have been repeatedly plundered by these fellows； and who have had their horses and cattle taken from them by the Carlists； being reduced with their families to nakedness and the extreme of hunger； seize in rage and desperation upon every booty which comes within their reach； a circumstance which can awaken but little surprise。
This terrible state of things； staring me in the face on my arrival at Seville； made me pause。 I thought that the tempest might in some degree subside； but hitherto I have been disappointed。 My mind is at present made up。 I shall depart for Madrid in two or three days； at all risks。 The distance is 300 miles。 I shall hire； in the first place； horses； and a guide； as far as Cordova （twenty…six leagues）。 I shall have to pay a great price； it is true； but I have money； praised be God； who inspired me with the idea of putting fifty sovereigns in my pocket when I left London。 I should otherwise be helpless。 From Cordova I must endeavour to obtain horses to Val de Penas （twenty leagues）； which is half way to Madrid。 Were I at Val de Penas； I should feel comparatively at ease； for from thence I know the road； having traversed it in my ways from Madrid to Grenada； it moreover runs through La Mancha； which； though infested with banditti； is plain open ground； and if I could obtain no guide or horses； or had been plundered of my money； I might hope to make my way on foot。 But I am ignorant of the country between Seville and Cordova； and from Cordova to Val de Penas。 The route is through the dismal and savage mountains of the Sierra Morena； where I should inevitably be bewildered； and perhaps； if not murdered； fall a prey to the wolves。 Were the whole way known to me； I would leave my baggage here and dressed as a beggar or Gypsy set out on foot； strange as this plan may sound in English ears； it would be the safest course I could pursue。 Should I perish in this journey； keep the affair secret as long as possible from my dear mother； and when it should be necessary to reveal it to her； do me the favour to go to Norwich on purpose； should I reach Madrid； you will hear from me in about five weeks； from the time you receive this。 It would be of no utility to write to you from Cordova； the letter would never reach you； I hope this will。
Gomez had not hitherto paid a visit to Seville； when I arrived here； he was said to be in the neighbourhood of Ronda。 The city was under watch and ward； several gates had been blocked up with masonry； trenches dug； and redoubts erected； but I am convinced that the place would not have held out six hours against a resolute assault。 Gomez has proved himself to be a most extraordinary man； and with his small army of Aragonese and Basques has within the last four months made the tour of Spain； he has very frequently been hemmed in with forces three times the number of his own； in places whence escape seemed impossible； but he has always baffled his enemies； whom he seems to laugh at。 The most absurd accounts of victories gained over him are continually issuing from the press at Seville； the other day it was stated that his army had been utterly defeated； himself killed； and that 1200 prisoners were on their way to Seville。 I saw these prisoners； instead of 1200 desperadoes； they consisted of about twenty poor lame ragged wretches； many of them boys from fourteen to sixteen years of age； they were evidently camp…followers； who； unable to keep up with the army； had been picked up straggling in the plains and amongst the hills。 It now appears that no battle had occurred； and that the death of Gomez was a fiction。 The grand defect of Gomez is not knowing how to take advantage of circumstances； after his defeat of Lopez he might have marched to Madrid and proclaimed Don Carlos there； and after sacking Cordova； he might have captured Seville。
There are several booksellers' shops in Seville； in two of which I found copies of the New Testament （our own 12mo edition of 1826）； they had been obtained from Gibraltar about two years since； during which time six copies had been sold in one shop and four in the other。 I have become acquainted with an elderly person； a Genoese by birth； who； should we succeed in bringing out an edition of the sacred volume at Madrid； may be of service to us； as a colporteur in this place and the neighbourhood； where he is well known。 He has assured me of his willingness to undertake the task； and； if required； to visit Cordova； Grenada； or any part of Andalusia； town or country； he has been accustomed to bookselling； and at one time he also brought some of our Testaments from Gibraltar； all of which were however taken from him by the Custom House officers with the exception of one copy； which he afterwards disposed of to a lady for 30 REALS （6s。 6d。）。 Should the Bible Society be desirous to circulate the book in the rural districts of Spain； they must be prepared to make considerable sacrifices。 In some of the towns； especially the sea…ports； it is probable that many copies may be disposed of； at a fair price； but can it be expected that amongst myriads； who are in want of the common necessaries of life； who are without food； fuel or clothing； and on whose wretched heads the horrors which civil war … and such a civil war … have principally fallen； ＇men＇ can have money for books？ I am willing to visit every part of Spain； and to risk my life a thousand times in laying God's Word before the people； but I can promise no more。 I have no extraordinary powers； indeed scarcely those allotted to the average of humanity； God； it is true； can operate wonders by any instrument； but we must bide His will。
I have had the good fortune to form the acquaintance of Mr。 Wetherell； an English gentleman； who has for many years been established in a very important branch of business at Seville。 He takes a warm interest in my mission； and has frequently informed me that nothing will afford him greater pleasure than to further the cause at this place and in the neighbourhood； as he employs a vast number of individuals； I have little doubt that he has the power； as he certainly has the will。 He is a virtuoso and possesses a singular collection of the ancient idols of Mexico； which bear a surprising resemblance to those used by the followers of the Buddhist superstition。 In return for a translation of an Arabic inscription which I made for him； he presented me with a copy of the Cabalistic book Zohar； in the Rabbinical language and character； which on the destruction of the Inquisition at Seville （1820） he obtained from the library of that horrible tribunal。
Pray remember me to Mr。 Jowett and Mr。 Browne and my other friends。 May the Lord bless you； my dear Sir。
GEORGE BORROW。
LETTER： 26th December； 1836
To the Rev。 A。 Brandram （ENDORSED： recd。 Jany。 6； 1837） MADRID DECEMBER 26TH； 1836。
REVD。 AND DEAR SIR； … I
