letters-第15章

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price　than　a　CRUZADO　NOVO；　which　he　had　determined　to　sell　　them　at。　　I　thought　it　but　right　to　consult　him　on　the　subject；　as　　the　Society　are　under　great　obligations　to　him；　and　I　was　unwilling　　to　do　anything　at　which　he　could　possibly　take　umbrage。　　During　one　　of　my　conversations　with　Mr。　Wilby　I　enquired　which　was　the　　province　of　Portugal；　the　population　of　which　he　considered　to　be　　the　most　ignorant　and　benighted：　　he　replied；　'The　Alemtejo。'　　The　　Alemtejo　means　'the　other　side　of　the　Tagus。'　　This　province　is　not　　beautiful　and　picturesque　like　the　other　portions　of　Portugal；　it　　has　few　hills　or　mountains；　the　greatest　part　of　it　consists　of　　heaths；　broken　by　knolls　and　gloomy　dingles；　swamps；　and　forests　of　　stunted　pine。　　These　places　are　infested　with　banditti；　and　not　a　　week　passes　by　without　horrible　murders　and　desperate　robberies　　occurring。　　The　principal　town　is　Evora；　one　of　the　most　ancient　　cities　in　Portugal；　and　formerly　the　seat　of　an　Inquisition　far　　more　cruel　and　baneful　than　the　terrible　one　of　Lisbon。　　Evora　lies　　about　sixty　miles　from　the　farther　bank　of　the　Tagus；　which　is　at　　Lisbon　three　leagues　broad；　and　to　Evora　I　determined　on　going　with　　a　small　cargo　of　Testaments　and　Bibles。　　My　reasons　I　need　not　　state；　as　they　must　be　manifest　to　every　Christian；　but　I　cannot　　help　thinking　that　it　was　the　Lord　who　inspired　me　with　the　idea　of　　going　thither；　as　by　so　doing　I　have　introduced　the　Scriptures　into　　the　worst　part　of　the　Peninsula；　and　have　acquired　lights　and　　formed　connections　（some　of　the　latter　most　singular　ones；　I　admit）　　which　if　turned　to　proper　account　will　wonderfully　assist　us　in　our　　object　of　making　the　heathen　of　Portugal　and　Spain　acquainted　with　　God's　holy　word。　　My　journey　to　Evora　and　my　success　there　shall　be　　detailed　in　my　next　letter。

G。　BORROW。



LETTER：　8th　January；　1836



To　the　Rev。　A。　Brandram　（ENDORSED：　recd。　Feb。　15；　1836）　Badajoz；　JANRY。　8；　1836。

JOURNEY　TO　EVORA

AN　EXTRACT　FROM　MY　JOURNAL

ON　the　afternoon　of　the　sixth　of　December　I　set　out　for　this　place；　　accompanied　by　my　servant　Anthonio。　　I　had　been　informed　that　the　　tide　would　serve　for　the　FELOUKS；　or　passage…boats；　employed　in　　crossing　the　Tagus；　at　about　four　o'clock；　but　on　reaching　the　　river's　side　opposite　Aldea　Gallega；　between　which　place　and　Lisbon　　they　ply；　I　found　that　the　tide　would　not　permit　them　to　start　　before　eight　o'clock。　　Had　I　waited　for　them　I　should　probably　have　　landed　at　Aldea　Gallega　at　midnight；　and　I　felt　little　inclination　　to　make　my　ENTREE　in　the　Alemtejo　at　that　hour；　therefore　as　I　saw　　small　boats　which　can　push　off　at　any　time　lying　near　in　abundance；　　I　determined　upon　hiring　one　of　them　for　the　passage；　though　the　　expense　would　be　thus　considerably　increased。　　I　soon　agreed　with　a　　wild…looking　lad　to　take　us　over；　who　told　me　that　he　was　in　part　　owner　of　one　of　the　boats。　　I　was　not　aware　of　the　danger　in　　crossing　the　Tagus　at　any　time　in　these　small　boats　at　its　broadest　　part；　which　is　between　Lisbon　and　Aldea　Gallega；　but　especially　at　　close　of　day　in　the　winter　season；　or　I　should　certainly　not　have　　ventured。　　The　lad　and　his　comrade；　a　miserable　object；　whose　only　　clothing；　notwithstanding　the　severity　of　the　weather；　was　a　　battered　jerkin　and　trousers；　rowed　until　we　had　advanced　about　　half　a　mile　from　the　land；　they　then　hoisted　a　large　sail；　and　the　　lad；　who　seemed　to　be　the　principal　and　to　direct　everything；　took　　the　helm　and　steered。　　The　evening　was　now　setting　in；　the　sun　was　　not　far　from　its　bourne　in　the　horizon；　the　air　was　very　cold；　the　　wind　was　rising；　and　the　waves　of　the　noble　Tagus　began　to　be　　crested　with　foam。　　I　told　the　boy　that　it　was　scarcely　possible　　for　the　boat　to　carry　so　much　sail　without　upsetting；　upon　which　he　　laughed；　and　began　to　gabble　in　a　most　incoherent　manner。　　He　had　　the　most　harsh　and　rapid　articulation　that　has　ever　come　under　my　　observation；　it　was　the　scream　of　the　hyena　blended　with　the　bark　　of　the　terrier；　but　it　was　by　no　means　an　index　of　his　disposition；　　which　I　soon　found　to　be　light；　merry；　and　anything　but　malevolent；　　for　when　I；　in　order　to　show　him　that　I　cared　little　about　him；　　began　to　hum：　　'EU　QUE　SOU　CONTRABANDISTA'　（'I；　who　am　a　　smuggler'）；　he　laughed　heartily；　and　clapping　me　on　the　shoulder　　said　that　he　would　not　drown　us　if　he　could　help　it。　　The　other　　poor　fellow　seemed　by　no　means　averse　to　go　to　the　bottom；　he　sat　　at　the　forepart　of　the　boat　looking　the　image　of　famine；　and　only　　smiled　when　the　waters　broke　over　the　side　and　drenched　his　scanty　　clothing。　　In　a　little　time　I　had　made　up　my　mind　that　our　last　　hour　was　come；　the　wind　was　becoming　higher；　the　short　dangerous　　waves　were　more　foamy；　the　boat　was　frequently　on　its　beam…ends；　　and　the　water　came　over　the　lee　side　in　torrents；　but　still　the　　wild　lad　at　the　helm　held　on；　laughing　and　chattering；　and　　occasionally　yelling　out　parts　of　the　Miguelite　air　'QUANDO　EL　REY　　CHEGOU'　＇'When　the　King　arrived'＇；　the　singing　of　which　in　Lisbon　　is　punished　with　imprisonment。　　The　stream　was　against　us；　but　the　　wind　was　in　our　favour；　and　we　sprang　along　at　a　wonderful　rate。　　I　　saw　that　our　only　chance　of　escape　was　in　speedily　getting　under　　the　shelter　of　that　part　of　the　farther　bank　of　the　Tagus；　where　　the　bight　or　bay　commences　at　the　extremity　of　which　stands　Aldea　　Gallega；　as　we　should　not　then　have　to　battle　with　the　waves　of　the　　adverse　stream；　which　the　wind　lashed　into　fury。　　It　was　the　will　　of　the　Almighty　to　permit　us　speedily　to　gain　this　shelter；　but　not　　before　the　boat　was　nearly　filled　with　water；　and　we　were　all　wet　　to　the　skin。　　At　about　seven　o'clock　in　the　evening　we　reached　　Aldea　Gallega；　shivering　with　cold　and　in　a　most　deplorable　plight。

Aldea　Gallega；　or　the　Galician　Village；　for　the　two　words　have　that　　signification；　is　a　place　containing；　I　should　think；　about　four　　thousand　inhabitants。　　It　was　pitchy　dark　when　we　landed；　but　　rockets　soon　began　to　fly　about　in　all　directions；　illumining　the　　air　far　and　wide。　　As　we　passed　along　the　dirty　unpaved　street　　which　leads　to　the　LARGO　or　square　in　which　the　town　is　situated；　a　　horrible　uproar　of　drums　and　voices　assailed　our　ears。　　On　　enquiring　the　cause　of　all　this　bustle；　I　was　informed　that　it　was　　the　Eve　of　the　Conception　of　the　Blessed　Virgin。　　As　it　was　not　the　　custom　of　the　people　of　the　inn　to　provide　provisions　for　the　　guests；　I　wandered　about　in　search　of　food；　and　at　last　seeing　some　　soldiers　eating　and　drinking　in　a　sort　of　wine…house；　I　went　in　and　　asked　the　people　to　let　me　have　some　supper。　　In　a　short　time　they　　furnished　me　with　a　tolerable　meal；　for　which；　however；　they　　charged　two　crowns。

Having　engaged　with　a　person　for　mules　to　carry　us　to　Evora；　which　　were　to　be　ready　at　five　next　morning；　I　soon　retired　to　bed；　my　　servant　sleeping　in　the　same　apartment；　which　was　the　only　one　in　　the　house　vacant。　　I　closed　not　an　eye　during　the　whole　night；　　beneath　us　was　a　stable　in　which　some　ALMOCREVES；　or　carriers；　　slept　with　their　mules；　and　at　our　back　in　the　yard　was　a　hog…stye。　　　How　could　I　sleep？　　The　hogs　grunted；　the　mules　screamed；　and　the　　ALMOCREVES　snored　most　horribly。　　I　heard　the　village　clock　strike　　the　hours　until　midnight；　and　from　midnight　till　four　in　the　　morning；　when　I　sprang　up　and　began　to　dress；　and　despatched　my　　servant　to　hasten　the　man　with　his　mules；　for　I　was　heartily　tired　　of　the　place；　and　wished　to　leave　it。

An　old　man；　but　remarkably　bony　and　hale；　accompanied　by　a　bare…　footed　lad；　brought　the　beasts。　　He　was　the　proprietor　of　them；　and　　intended　to　accompany　us　to　Evora　with　the　lad；　who　was　his　nephew。　　　When　we　started　the　moon　was　shining　brightly；　and　the　morning　was　　piercingly　cold。　　We　soon　entered　a　sandy；　hollow　way；　emerging　　from　which　we　passed　by　a　large　edifice；　standing　on　a　high；　bleak　　sand…hill；　on　our　left。　　We　were　speedily　overtaken　by　five　or　six　　men　on　horseback；　riding　at　a　rapid　pace；　each　with　a　long　gun　　slung　at　his　saddle；　the　muzzle　depending　about　two　feet　below　the　　horses　belly。　　I　questioned　the　old　man　as　to　the　cause　of　their　　going　thus　armed；　he　answered　that　the　roads　were　very　bad　（meaning　　that　they　abounded　with　robbers）；　and　that　these　people　carried　　arms　for　their　defence。　　They　soon　turned　off　to　the　right　towards　　Palmella。

We　reached　a　sandy　plain　studded　with　stunted　pine；　the　road　was　　little　more　than　a　footpath；　and　as　we　proceeded　the　trees　　thickened　and　became　a　wood；　which　extended　for　two　leagues　with　　clear　spaces　at　intervals；　in　which　herds　of　cattle　and　sheep　were　　feeding。　　The　sun　was　just　beginning　to　show　itself；　but　the　　morning　was　misty　and　dreary；　which　together　with　the　aspect　of　　desolation　which　the　country　exhibited　had　an　unfavourable　effect　　on　my　spirits。　　I　got　down　and　walked；　entering　into　conversation　　with　the　man。　　He　seemed　to　have　but　one　theme　of　conversation；　　'the　robbers'　and　the　atrocities　they　were　in　the　habit　of　　practising　in　the　very　spots　we　were　passing。　　The　tales　he　related　　were　truly　horrible；　and　to　avoid　them　I　mounted　again　and　rode　on　　considerably　in　front。

In　about　an　hour　and　a　half　we　emerged　from　the　forest　and　entered　　upon　wild　broken　ground　covered　with　MATO　or　brushwood。　　The　mules　　stopped　to　drink　at　a　shallow　pool；　and　on　looking　to　the　right　I　　saw　a　ruined　wall。　　This；　the　guide　informed　me；　was　the　remains　of　　the　Vendal　Velhas；　or　the　old　inn；　formerly　the　haunt　of　the　　celebrated　robber　Sabocha。　　This　Sabocha；　it　seems；　had；　about　　sixteen　years　since；　a　band　of　forty　ruffians　at　his　command；　who　　infested　these　wilds；　and　supported　themselves　by　plunder。　　For　a　　considerable　time　Sabocha　pursued　his　atrocious　trade　unsuspected；　　and　many　an　unfortunate　traveller　was　murdered；　in　the　dead　of　　night；　at　the　solitary　inn　by　the　wood's　side；　which　he　kept；　　indeed　a　more　fit　situation　for　plunder　and　murder　I　never　saw。　　　The　gang　were　in　the　habit　of　watering　their　horses　at　the　pool；　　and　perhaps　of　washing　therein　their　hands　stained　with　the　blood　　of　their　victims。　　The　brother　of　Sabocha　was　the　lieutenant　of　the　　troop；　a　fellow　of　great　strength　and　ferocity；　particularly　famous　　for　the　skill　he　possessed　in　darting　a　long　knife　and　transfixing　　his　opponents。　　Sabocha's　connection　with　the　gang　at　last　became　　known；　and　he　fled　with　the　greatest　part　of　his　associates　across　　the　Tagus；　to　the　northern　provinces。　　He　and　his　brother　　eventually　lost　their　lives　on　the　road　to　Coimbra；　in　an　　engagement　with　the　military。　　His　house　was　razed　by　order　of　the　　Government。

The　ruins　of　this　house　are　still　frequently　visited　by　banditti；　　who　eat　and　drink　amongst　the　stones　and　look　out　for　prey；　as　the　　place　commands　a　view　of　the　road。　　The　old　man　assured　me　that　　about　two　months　previous；　on　returning　from　Aldea　Gallega　with　his　　mules　from　accompanying　some　travellers；　he　had　been　knocked　down；　　stript　naked；　and　had　all　his　money　taken　from　him；　by　a　fellow　　who；　he　believed；　came　from　this　murderers'　nest。　　He　said　that　he　　was　an　exceedingly　powerful　young　man　with　immense　moustaches　and　　whiskers；　and　was　armed　with　an　ESPINGARDA　or　musket。　　About　ten　　days　subsequently　he　saw　the　robber　at　Vendas　Novas；　wher